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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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  • kegskegs Posts: 1
    2006 tacoma trd having shuddering problems in first gear and reverse. dealer said it has a low first gear and a lot of torque so the axel is wrapping. No one else has complained about this problem to any dealer within 150 mile radius. I just cant buy that excuse, it is a 28,000 truck and should be able to handle the torque. The problem is not as severe when in 4x4. Does this happen to all tacomas or just a select few. I am bringing it in for the second time tomorrow. Do i have a problem or do i have to deal with it the way it is? Who makes military leaf wraps for this truck? please reply, desperate for an answer. thank you GPR
  • Just started experiencing this problem this winter with my 2000 Tacoma 4x4 auto tranmission, 133,000 miles. When it was freezing or below everytime I came to a stop the drive wheel on the passengers side would lock up. If I was on snow or ice the truck would go into a skid I could not get out of. If I take my foot off gas with truck in drive it would not roll forward. When I stepped on the gas there was a loud thump/bang sound and the wheel would release and the truck would go forward. If I shifted into reverse for a split second and quickly put it back in drive without stepping on the brake, there as no thump/bang sound and the truck would roll forward as normal. Kind of tricky with a car behind you at a stop light. In the warmer weather when I stopped, the wheel would not fully lock up, but it would feel like the brake was slightly engaged or sticking; and if I took my foot off the gas sometimes the truck would roll forward and other times it would just sit there. The problem is worse if you depress the brake harder or quickly. If you softly press on the brake and come to a slow stop it doesnot occur or occurs lightly. My mechanic is stumped as they have taken apart the rear brake assemble and gone over the whole thing twice and have found no problems with the brakes. One of them is figuring on a transfer case problem. They have researched the repair archives thru Toyota concerning a problem like this and have found nothing. Anybody have any experience with this? Thanks.
  • castcast Posts: 6
    How did they do the leaf wrap. And is your truck lifted. The leaf wrap worked great for me. That clunk or bump feeling was driving me nuts, and when the dealer told me it was all right and normal and there was no fix I wasn't going to buy into that crap.
  • I don't know if you still have the tacoma but mine is doing the same exact thing. Have you tried the leaf spring? if so did it work? thanks
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    This sounds like a case of the front caliper piston either hanging up or frozen did your mechanic check to see if the pistons in the caliper are moving in and out freely? One time I was gonig to change my brake pads and could not press the pistons back to install new ones and had to replace both calipers on front this was after 200,000miles service they were both frozen and would not retrack. Sometimes also in very cold weather do not leave your parking brake engaged overnight because moisture freezes rear pads to the drum and will not release,parking brake light will remain on if you drive they will heat up and release eventually this happened on all my Toyota trucks with weather below freezing with slushy snow or freezing rain.
  • My mechanic appears to have found the problem this time with the rear right brake lock. About 5 months back they changed a leaking rear seal for me. At that time they did not replace the brake pad cause it was half worn. They sanded it down. However, last week they noticed a sticky gooey substance on the inside of the drum, and on closer inspection noticed the shoe appeared soaked in oil and grease. They cleaned up the drum, put new shoes on, and it has been fine since then.
  • lljoneslljones Posts: 1
    I began smelling exhaust fumes in my 2005 Tacoma recently after its 30K service. The truck now has 34k and I have had it back to the dealer 3 times. They claim not to smell it ... I drive 60 miles each way to work and they only take it on small runs and/or leave it running for periods. Is there any history of this problem? The truck burns or leaks a bit of oil but dealer again says not a problem ... they searched for leaks (exhaust and or oil) and claim to have found none. Any thoughts?
  • smokey888smokey888 Posts: 16
    Is this the same thingie:

    soundman34, "Toyota Tacoma 2005+" #6853, 8 Apr 2006 5:33 am

    I have a friend that is a Toyota/Lexus certified mechanic. He actually works more on the Lexus side but a lot of the platforms and applications are the same. I have been having this clunk in the driveline since last summer or at about the 5000 mile mark. Last year my dealer gave me the "it's normal for these trucks" speach and sent me on my way. The one thing I could not swallow is the fact I paid for toyota quality and service and then I get this kind of response. Anyway, back to the clunk. After talking to my friend, he confirmed everything I have been researing and discussing with fellow tacoma owners. The problem is the splined slip yoke assembly sticking and hanging up when coming to a stop and starting from a stop. Lexus is having the same trouble with their SUV line. The lexus SUV line shares the 4 Runner platform with Toyota. Unfortunatly Lexus is doing more about the problem than Toyota is. As you all can probably relate, the spline slip yoke is not being lubed probably at the factory. They are basically putting as little grease in them as possible. On top of that, the machining process of this part is not the greatest. The splined slip yoke is not smooth enough. These are the two reasons we are having this problem. After about 5000 miles or so (in my case) this starts to wear and stick. The only condition is that it only sticks at temperatures above 55 degrees outside ambient temperature which supports the lubrication issue. Above those temperatures with what little grease that is in there is not doing it's job properly. You probably can get the dealer to replace the whole driveline unit (from the carrige bearing back to the rear diff.) which will fix the problem for now but once those parts start to wear in you will have the same problem again. How soon? Who knows. The main problem is in the machining process. Until Toyota takes a serious look at that the problem is always going to be there. Lubing the spline Yoke will also fix it, but in some cases it may be only temporary. I am going to his house later today and he is going to take the system apart and show me what he has said. He is also going to lube the spline yoke with Jewlers grease which is what Lexus is trying to do to reduce or eliminate the clunk unitl the machining process is looked at and solved. I am not familiar with jewlers grease so I am not sure how the application works, but I will know later today when we take things apart. Sorry to be so long winded, but this is how is was explained to me and it's makes a lot of sense. I will post what I found out when we tackle this later today.
  • smokey888smokey888 Posts: 16
    Found this post from a couple of years back:

    "The problem sounds similar to my truck and others where when stopping there is a thud in the rear like it was bumped. I think this is called "axle wrap" and is supposedly normal."
  • kensrujrkensrujr Posts: 1
    I just got a '98 toyota tacoma and the dome light is out. The door lights work, and the dome bulb worked when I tested it on another battery source. I tested the dome switch when the bulb was out and their was a 12V difference, but thier doesen't seem to be any Amps coming out, hence no light. The rest of the lights and circuitry seem to be working. Does anyone know what is going on with the dome light circuit?
    Thanks
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    If I understood you correctly, the bulb lights when removed and connected to 12VDC supply separately.
    With the doors open, and the bulb removed, your meter shows 12V across the two terminals of the bulb socket.

    If that's the case, then the only possibilities I see are a bad connection btwn bulb and socket or you have a bad connection elsewhere that is causing a high resistance.

    Bad connection elsewhere-
    The resistance is "transparent" when there is no or little current flow. If the meter has a high impedance (which all decent instruments do), then it doesn't draw much current. The voltage drop across a high resistance (loose or corroded) connection is proportional to current flow, so low current, low voltage drop, resulting in you seeing the voltage at the terminals of the socket. However, when the bulb is in place, the current across the bad connection causes a voltage drop so large that the total current flow is too low to illuminate the bulb.

    Check the ground connection at the doorswitches. Do you have the same problem regardless of which door you open, or if you open all of them at the same time? If only one door fails to illuminate the bulb, that switch may be bad or have a bad connection to ground. (My old Suzuki had issues w/ the door switches.) If all the doors have the problem, but the bulb glows some when all doors are open at the same time, it could be that all the switches are corroded or have bad grounds. Remove the bulb from the lamp, remove a door switch. Reinstall the bulb. Now ground the wire from the door switch to a good metal ground on your truck. If the bulb lights, the switch or its ground is the trouble. If not, then it's either the wiring from the switch to the socket, or from the socket to the 12V supply that has a loose or corroded connection.

    Good hunting-
  • sugarman1sugarman1 Posts: 92
    I think that the axle wrap thunk problem is one that not going away and there will have to be alot of screaming from owners in order for Toyota to do a recall or TSB the problem,if what your saying is correct that its a machining problem then they will have redesign and remanufactor new drivelines for thousands of vehicles and I personally dont see that happening it would cost millions. I have a 2004 Tacoma and have experienced the Thunk or axle wrap problem If Toyota has a remedy to fix the problem for me that would be fantastic but if not its something I can live with thats not going drive me over the edge with frustration. I wonder what would happen if you grease the rear driveline with a superior fully synthetic grease such as Amsoil product,they have superior wear and heat properties as opposed to conventional greases, I use Valvoline semi-synthetic and my Thunk isnt as pronounced as some peoples that have posted here. :D
  • Went to the dealer again today as my "exhaust noise" has significantly increased over the last month. The normal exhaust noise is no longer considered normal as the dealership has now informed me that Toyota has posted a bulliten and they will replace the manifolds to fix the problem. Anyone experiencing the same "normal exhaust noise" check with your dealer asap. From what understand, there are alot of us out there.
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    Mine is a 2006 4cyl with a terrible exhaust noise. I've been told by the Toyota executive office that the fuel line bracket is causing the noise and newly redesinged one will be available shortly.
  • My tacoma has high mileage around 95,000. I have a TRD super charger installed. If I am driving on the freeway at 65 mph and go into an incline with out the truck down shifting the motor will ping like crazy. :( Now I run high octane fuel and have flushed the injectors out with the injector cleaner stuff that you poor into the gas. I have checked the spark plugs and they are fine. I'm thinking it could be caused from the electrical part of the computer, or the co2 sensor. If any one can respond at all it would be appreciated.
  • clayyclayy Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Tacoma, 4 door, 4wd, V6, auto. ... It has 5700 miles on it and is at the dealer for the 3rd time for the same tap in the motor as described in previous messages ... under acceleration, worse at 1200-1500 rpm, or when under load ... they first told me nothing was wrong (at 500 miles) and to bring it back if it got worse. It got worse and virtually unbearable progressively to 5700 miles. They replaced both exhaust manifolds under a Technical Service Bulletin and the problem persists. The dealer I bought it from has had it for about 10 days now and is waiting for the "technical guy from Toyota" to come look at it. I thought it was an isolated incident until now ...
  • Yes, I too have a same annoying rattle by the glove box. Took it to the dealer 10 times. Most of the time they returned it to me claiming they didn't hear anything wrong. I have made several rides with techs in the vehicle to reproduce noise. Are these people deaf or something? They act like I'm making this up!!! Some techs do admit hearing it but have done little to fix it. After two years and 30K miles, I don't know what to do - except buy a different brand of truck. Sigh...
  • jasonhjasonh Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Tacoma 2.7L. When driving typically at highway speeds for no reason the truck sometimes cuts out or feels like a miss. It seems to happen in most gears but is most noticeable in 3rd, 4th, 5th. What could this be?
  • koko2koko2 Posts: 1
    Thanks for the info on the exhaust noise.
    I have a 2006 with engine tap (another posting said Toyo is coming out with fix for fuel bracket??) and it is also bottoming out on the rear (leaf springs crashing hard on the axle when going over a dip in a road) usually more noticable with 2 or more persons. Does not need any additional weight in the truck. Gives you a hard jolt in your back and is very uncomfortable. I've been to the dealer 3 times for this. Mechanic & Customer service mgr both felt the jolt and now calling regional manager to the store to meet with me & discuss issue.
    What happened to Toyota quality?
    I read about same problem someone else had in a 2001 Tacoma.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I don't think the quality has changed for the worse in the last 40 years. What has changed is that we have an internet where we can go see someone that has a possible problem with their vehicle, and pretty soon everyone that has second thoughts about spending 20K+ on a vehicle also has that problem. It used to be that if you wanted to know about a vehicle, you would ask someone that was driving one. Now, many go to sites like this to read comments from people that have never even sat in the vehicle they are bad-mouthing. I guess I would talk smack about Toyota if I found out I could get a better Nissan for considerably less or if I bought a Nissan and found that the Toy is much better. I think both are worth what you pay myself. Maybe not worth the cost, but worth more than a comparable domestic.
This discussion has been closed.