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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • jrob1jrob1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Tacoma Reg. Cab 4x4 with a 2.7. At 60 MPH and higher, there is a very noticeable growling or vibration noise when I decelerate. Any clues? I only have 4,400 miles on this and it's driving me crazy. Also, the shifting is very notchy - - especially in third gear. It doesn't really grind, but you can feel the spin. Anybody else have this experience?
  • It depends on the year. If it's a 2005 or 06 it's very simple, Just remove the AC/heater controls by pulling straight back. Then you will find four screws, two are visible right away the other ones are further back. once you remove the screws the whole panel holding the radio will come off. The holding panel it's held in place by four clips, two on top and two on the bottom. ensure to pull straight back and evenly to avoid breaking the clips.I just installed a complete system on my 2005 tacoma double cab. CD Amp and subs. Let me know if you have any other questions.

  • helitacohelitaco Posts: 3
    regarding the transmission clunk some of us have been having with the automatic's with the help of my local dealer we came up with a simple solution that seems to have fixed mine.
    it's in the rear drive shaft slip joint, just simple unbolt the driveshaft from the rear diff, slide the driveshaft slip joint apart, put about five shots of grease on the spline'ss and bolt it back up.
    I know it sounds odd, but it worked on my 01 tacoma.
    thanks for the feedback people
  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    I recently acquired a '98 tacoma 4x4. The 4x4 system is not working. I jacked up the rear about 2-3" with a floor jack and engaged the 4x4. No 4x4 light came on and the truck would not drive off of the jack. The only wheel turning was the right rear. I tried the rear differential lock as well but had no luck. The locking diff. light flashes on the dashboard. Then I put the truck into 4 low. The rear diff. lock was then working as both rear wheels were turning and the light for the locking rear diff. stayed on however the truck still did not drive off of the floor jack. The front hubs are automatic and self-engaging. Any suggestions/comments are welcome.
  • tripp3tripp3 Posts: 1
    Hey there. I have a 97 Tacoma LX and have recently moved to the mountains of Colorado from the east. I have noticed that the truck is really dying on the high altitude hills around here and I have problems even pulling 55 on the highway which was never a problem back east. Is there adjustments that I need to make in the engine now that I am at altitude?? Any advice would be great. Thanks, Tripp
  • I know it's been 3 years since your post, wondering if they ever resolved the problem with the 1st to 2nd gear clash, my '99 xtra cab 2.4L has has the same problem since day one, when I took it in at approx 33-k miles (still under the 3-36 warranty) they tried to tell me it was the clutch.This was Kendall Toyota, in Miami, one of the largest in the southeast, if not the largest.A friend knew the service manager at the time, and called him after I took it in, and he said they had been seeing them come in with rust on the trans input shaft splines causeing the clutch to hang up against the flywheel instead of releasing when it should, which sort of makes sense, except that my truck was 1 month old (from production) when I bought it and it has done it since then, and still does it today at 87,000 miles.I would not approve teardown because it was obvious I was going to end up having to pay, since the clutch is only covered under the first 12/12.Something is going on here, Toyota ticked me off so I bought a different brand in 2004.I have considered another, (tundra) but it seems like Toyota has slid downhill with quality the last several years, from what it was in the mid-late 80's into mid 90's.If I could get to the bottom of the exact cause, it would help me get toyota to fix it......
  • daallendaallen Posts: 1
    Guys, Im have owned a 98 tacoma since it was on the lot is 97. Just recently I was driving to work and felt a slight vibration in the steering wheel. In my mind I was just thinking it was time to get my tires rotated. Later that day or the next I noticed that my truck didnt seem to be running with as much power as it normally did, but it was very minute. BUT when I was comming back from work last night The vibration was more noticeable, and I lost a lot of power and my check engine light came on. I tried to speed up and slow down to see if anything felt different and it seemed to me as if my truck was stuck in a higher gear like 4th or 5th. It is an automatic transmission. So I got online thinking the worst that I might need a news trans, but then I saw some things on this fourm that suggested that it could be a problem with the MAF sensor. Could this be my problem as well. Please excuse my ignorance of the trade, Im very new to these things so far. Please let me know what you think. Thanks.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    I know the rear locker won't work unless you are in 4 low (my truck anyway), so that explains the flashing light in high. Do you have a manual, electric or vacumn 4 by engage unit? I know my Jeep had vac, and a hose had come off. Might be as hose, wire or missing front drive shaft.
  • 4paws4paws Posts: 1
    I have an '04 Tacoma Prerunner.It has about 31k miles and has been 99% highway miles. The problem I have is about an inch and a half of freeplay in the steering wheel. I took the truck in to Toyota to have it looked at under warranty but after much running around they said that it's allowed by Toyota. I have crawled around underneath and pushed and shoved everything that I can see and I see nothing loose. Anyone have any advice? Thanks in advance. Scott.
  • beubeu Posts: 4
    I have the same problem and think perhaps it is because I don't drive 10 miles in four wheel drive every month like the owner's manual says. So I put it in four wheel and it seems to help.
  • cplamb1cplamb1 Posts: 1
    I was driving down the Interstate yesterday and did something I had done many times in my 2006 toyota tacoma v6 4x4 longbed but this new beast caught me by surprise and I wondered if it was typical? I was in the slow lane approaching a car (Cruise set at 65) in front of me and was unable to pull to the fast lane to pass as a car was approaching from behind in that lane. I "released" the Cruise to slow down by blipping the lever towards me and then when the car was past me I pushed up on the lever to resume my speed, pull out and pass. I was originally going about 65 slowed to about 50 and was "resuming" to 65. The truck gradually began to increase speed but when it hit about 55 all of a sudden it down shifted about two gears and the engine revved to about 3500K+ (in about 1/2 second) and I felt like I was in the Daytona 500! I blipped the cruise again so that it would release and I used the accelerator to get back up to speed and then reset the cruise. Is this normal for the new 5 speed? Startling to say the least! Thanks!
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    I need your advise on which tonneau cover fits my 06 Tacoma's 6ft bed(2x4,4cyl model,Access Cab with the factory installed bed rail system)as I'm so confused because many seem to fit one without the rail system(but all 06 models come with the rail systems).
  • fredj2fredj2 Posts: 1
    I just had my 2000 tacoma (2.7L; 120,000 miles) in to Toyota to diagnose the check engine light and was told that the exhaust valve on #3 cylinder was tight and the engine needs a valve job ($2,000).

    Please let me know how you ended up resolving your valve issue. Anything that you wished you had done different?

    Thank you. Fred
  • nolammnolamm Posts: 1
    Try the Access Roll-Up Cover made by Agri-Cover, Inc. It fits without any clamps or drilling and incorporates the rail system so you can still use the tie downs. The cover rail securing bolts use the existing holes for the rail system. I have it on my 06 Taco and it works and fits great. Get many compliments. Only took about an hour to install. Also has a lifetime warranty. Can be opened with one hand and ribs are intigrated into the cover. If you check the photo gallery on their website you can see what one looks like installed on a Taco.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    It is typical of the Automatic Toyotas in general (maybe other models too). I found that out with my Tundra too. The cruise doesn't believe in getting up to speed slowly. Years ago the cruise would pull the throttle down a little bit and either hold it there or cut the cruise off. The Toys just keep pulling until speed is achieved, even if it means shifting down a few gears. Where I really noticed the shifting was in the mountains with a trailer in tow. Scared the crap out of me the first time. Used to be that the cruise would kick out when the speed dropped about 4MPH. Tundra just pulled harder. I found that I had to kick the cruise out on hills and use the pedal to accelerate rather than the cruise. Hit resume when you get within a couple miles per hour. I solved the problem (if it is a problem) by getting a stick. Can't blame the cruise. You say you want to go 65 and it is going to get you there (or hold you there )as quick as possible. Comes with the drive to put smaller, more efficient engines in vehicles.
  • ustazzafustazzaf Posts: 311
    An inch and a half at 31K is certainly not acceptable. I am going to assume that you mean the steering wheel moves that much with the engine running with no movement to the tires. The easiest way to find the problem is to have someone sit in the truck and turn the wheel back and forth real slow (just to the point of tire movement) with the engine running. What you want to watch is the rack assembly (bushing play will allow the rack to move left and right). There should be zero movement. Also, watch to see if there is steering wheel movement with no response at all from the racc (internal racc problem). Look at the tierod ends at the wheel also. One may have movement. Again there should be no play. If all else fails, jack the wheel by the lower ball joint and by the frame to see if either wheel has play up, down, in, out, anything that may be loose. At 31K, the dealer is just hoping you will limp through 36K so they will get paid better to fix the problem. Granted, the dealer gets paid by the manufacture for warrantee work, but they don't have to answer for their repairs to a knowledgeable rep if it is not warrantee repair. It is no different with Nissan, Ford or Hyundai. There may be a quarter inch play in 6 different parts that are all within limits, so the factory refuses to pay the bill. But add all the minor defects up and you have a big problem. The dealer can charge you for them and fix your problem. I think your problem is the racc mount bushings though, and they should be replaced under warranty if they are bad, and they will not show up as bad until you have the wheels on the ground putting pressure on it while turning. If you are in the Tacoma area I would be happy to look at it. Otherwise, good luck!
  • tokyojoetokyojoe Posts: 13
    Nolamm, thanks for your advise. I thought the Access is one of the best in soft covers. However, only Access's "Literider" or "Limited Edition" models seem to fit mine. According to site, Access's original "Roll-up" cover fits one without the rail system but as you know all 06 Tacos come with the rail system factory installed. That's why I'm confused. Please let me know which model yours is and its approximate weight. Also advise if the gas mileage improved.
  • njm8506njm8506 Posts: 2
    I have a '96 Tacoma that will not restart if 1) I've driven it for more than half an hour; and 2) it's about 85 degrees or hotter outside. It acts like it's flooded when I try to start it. Eventually it will turn over but it takes some work. The dealer can't figure it out. Any ideas?
  • njm8506njm8506 Posts: 2
    OK, I'm not a mechanic so this is probably a simple question. I drove down the street with the emergency brake on a few times and the light wouldn't go off. I took the truck to the dealer and he said it needed to be replaced so I said fine. About 5 days later I hit a bump and the brake light came on again. I took it back to the dealer and said what gives? He said they only replaced the cable on the right side and not the entire thing. That was not my understanding of what happened. The mechanic came out and said that the truck is 10 years old and that the cables were all rotted underneath there. He said eventually the e-brake would go. Well last night it went. Trouble is, I think it broke in the "on" position. I drove the truck this morning and it drives weird and smells weird when I turn it off.
    Dumb question -- Can I drive like that anyway until I get it fixed? What's the worst that could happen?
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    anybidy had added afteramrket cruise control kit on their taco's? I have an 06 that i'd like to use the audiovox ccs100 kit, but i need the instructions. help. thx.
This discussion has been closed.