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Chevy Tahoe Door Lock Problem



  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Hello Dezb,
    Thank you for emailing me. If you don't get my email please let me know. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • same problem at around 70000km the drivers door lock went , I replaced the actuator myself as the dealer wanted close to $400 7000km later passenger rear door lock went as well and again replaced it myself .. there has to be more to this then GM is willing to admit. The dealership knew almost immediately what the issue was before I finished explaining and(what the fix was!!!!! and how much it would cost) obviously had dealt with this issue many times before. This can't be normal wear and tear, I have owned alot of vehicles in my time with power equipment and I have NEVER EVER replaced an actuator in the past. At over a $100 an hour this is another real money maker for the dealership !!!!!!
  • carolinaptcarolinapt Posts: 12
    coyotehowitzer- was it difficult to replace the acuators? Can you tell me any tips. Thanks.
    I totally agree with your statement- I believe GM knows of the defect in the locks and chooses to ignore it!!!! You would think with the bailout they would be more attuned to their customer base.
  • the driver door lock was alittle involved however the rear passenger is straight forward , you have to be careful removing the inside door panel, to not break the clips (they are $8 a piece at the dealer here) 15 for $15 through Auveco most parts places carry their Generic Gm oem # for clip is 11519031 auveco # is 20616 anyway I digress the panel is removed by first removing a cover piece behind the door handle use a plastic utensil , doesn't scratch, there are two bolts there remove them, then take off the plastic door lock cap, pull up on the small tab and then it lifts right off .. now you can pulloff the interior panel start at the top on both sides and pry off carefully , again use a plastic set of tools you can buy a cheapset for a couple of bucks, as you pull the panel out also pull up because it is hooked over the window sill. the only thing still attached will be the door handle cable you can either take it off using needle nose pliers to crimp the clip a bit to remove it , or you can leave the panel dangling to the side. To get the old lock out undo the 2 screw on the side of the door and then from the inside youcan slide the whole mechanismout enough to see the connections initially and undo them and then slip the entire mechanism out reverse to install new actuator . the new gm actuator is $230 I found a wrecker who removed them from a 2007 denali for $50 and he offered to install it for another $50 a great deal in retrospect. Don't be intimidated the job sound s more involved then itis . Even for a Gm tech its an hour to hour and half job at over $100 an hour you can save yourself a good chunk of change .... if you have any further questions just ask.....good luck.
  • My driver side door quit locking and unlocking and the only way to lock and unlock it is to use the key. I took it to Sewell Pontiac GMC in Dallas and they said there is an open technical service bulletin on it but that I still have to pay a $100.00 deductible to repair it. I don't understand why I have to pay a deductible when it's a common problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Are you outside the warranty?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    Hello Ellobolady,
    I apologize that you are experiencing a concern with your vehicle. Are you outside of your warranty and have an extended warranty? If you are on an extended warranty then you have to check what your deductable is. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • carolinaptcarolinapt Posts: 12
    I have no idea. should be recalled!!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    Well rather than complain on a forum where nobody has knowledge of your actual purchase specifics and can solve your problem, do a little investigation yourself and you may find that the cost of this repair should actually be covered.

    Find your purchase agreement so you know the date you bought the vehicle. Look at the odometer to find your mileage. Look in owners manual to find the warranty period (miles, date, items covered). If you are in the warranty period, take to dealer to repair. If outside the warranty period, review your purchase agreement to see if you purchased an optional extended warranty plan which covers items beyond the manufacturers warranty. If so, then find your extended warranty plan and read it to understand what you bought, what it covers, how long it covers it for, and what the deductible is. If repair is covered, proceed to make a claim against extended warranty.

    If you made the decision to NOT buy an extended warranty on your vehicle, then get out your checkbook now for the lock repair. Use the money you saved by not buying that warranty.

    Cars don't run forever, and every vehicle part is subject to breakage. I'd love to have vehicles that never had parts break and ran forever, but if any manufacturer ever built a vehicle like that, I'd never be able to afford it in the first place as the purchase price would be outrageous.

    When you buy any manufacturers vehicle, there is a written warranty contract between you and the manufacture. Some people buy different manufacturers, because of perceived more favorable warranties. If you don't like the warranty of a vehicle, you can choose to buy something else, buy an extended warranty that provides additional coverage, or live with the contract. You choose with your wallet.

    I've had my own share of repairs I wish I didn't have to make across all brands of vehicles (including GM products)...... for the last 40+ years of buying vehicles. I don't like it, but it's the contract I agreed to and signed when I bought the vehicle at the price I agreed to.
  • Do you work for GM? It sure sounds like a response that GM would give. I also have an actuator that is faulty on my 08 Tahoe and just researching this problem since last night have found HUNDREDS of other people having the same exact problem with their GM products. This should definitely qualify for a recall, because of the safety issue if nothing else. From what I've found, GM has some of the worst customer service in the automotive industry. You say not to complain on a forum, but that's one of the best ways to bring attention to other owners and, in turn, to the party responsible (GM)...
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Nope, don't work for GM, or any other company in the automobile industry.
  • dezbdezb Posts: 14
    Logging your complaints on this forum is the right thing to do. This lets the owners of like vehicles know what problems are being encountered. I have actually been contacted by GM regarding my post and they have been following up w/ me to make sure that my problems have been addressed by the dealer. DO NOT LET ANYONE advise you not to seek help and be heard. As far as the door lock issue, yes, it should be a recall issue! I have had other issues also. I own a 2008 Tahoe which has been at the dealer 4 times in a thirty day period. They had to replace an actuator in my rear door, install a dyode chip (not sure about spelling on that), fix the rear AC vent and replace an Onstar chip. My dealer told me that ever since GM changed the electrical system in '07 there have been numerous problems. One more time back to the dealer and I am trading in my Tahoe.
  • dezbdezb Posts: 14
    I don't agree with your response. When you purchase a vehicle, a GM product for example, you purchase based on reputation and research. I own a 2008 Tahoe, which has had numerous issues from the start. Why did I choose this vehicle? I also own a 2000 GMC Sierra, which now has 165,000 miles on it and still runs like a tank. I purchased my Tahoe based on my good experience with my pick up. I did not purchase an extended warranty on my pick up and never needed it. I did purchase an extended warranty on my Tahoe, but only because of the great deal I got on it. When so many vehicles are having similar issues, it is not a matter of warranty, but the quality of the vehicle itself. My issues arised during my manufacturer's warranty, but it appears several people had issues just after their warranties expired. This should be a recall issue and all stems from the reconfiguration of GM's electrical system. It is not the fault of the buyer if they could not afford--or chose not to purchase an extended warranty. These issues are things that should not go wrong within the first 5 years of a vehicles life. How many new cars have you purchased?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    edited July 2010
    So then this repair is covered for you under warranty.

    I typically always buy new. Thinking back over 40 years, I can think of only 4 vehicles that weren't new, and I do all the maintenance and repairs myself on our 'fleet' to keep the family mobile and pass the vehicles down.

    If you want to take up a cause, jump on the fuel pump, instrument cluster stepper motors, or transmission problems. They are much more prevalent and expensive to repair than door locks.

    For what it's worth in regards to door lock solenoid problems, I've had a failure on a Mercedes, and 2 on a Chrysler MiniVan. One failed window regulator motor on a Corvette, so I've been into a couple doors before.
  • 1st @ 37k, 2nd @ 41, and 3rd @ 49k.

    What I find interesting, is that while I believe that GM is not legally responsible to replace them outside of warranty (yet), they aren't providing reasonable solutions to the problem.
  • excellent point!!!!! why stop the money machine????? replacing your locks every few miles is no solution at all, especially after the warranty has lapsed.
  • Not sure why GMC fails to take action for a clear safety danger. My child managed to open the door from a faulty lock while in motion from a stop light. Good thing he was buckled in which was the only mechanism that potentially saved his life. Also, the potential for being ejected from a vehicle in a car accident from unlocked doors is significantly higher than a locked door. The death rate is also much higher.
    My suggestion for every single person who has experienced this issue would be to file a complaint and request a recall through Log it as a safety complaint to ensure a real response. I would also recommend writing your Congressman who has an obligation to address these issues and will inquire with GM directly.
    Last thing, while everyone is focused on door lock actuators going out, this is only part of the known problem. The source of the problem is known by GM, which is a pattern failure in the wiring harness which causes failure of the actuator. GM does nothing because has not mandated a recall. So, why would GM replace these parts when they are making lots of money, and helping dealers make loads of money in parts/service fees?
  • I have been buying new Chevy trucks & SUVs every 3 years since 1995. I previously owned a 2005 Tahoe and now have a 2008. Since buying the 2008 I have had the transmission seal go bad and two door lock actuators go bad. I am now needing to have my driver door lock actuator replaced again!! No more Chevy products for me. I'm trying another brand. :mad:
  • Nomoretahoes, did you have any problems with your 05 Tahoe? I'm thinking about buying one soon....
  • I did have a problem with the steering on the 2005 Tahoe which started when I first purchased it. I didn't notice anything but my husband did when he drove it. The dealership did fix the problem and I don't remember anything else wrong with it. I did like the 2005 better as far as storage space. It had room under the back seats for storage and I could also store a tool bag between the 2nd row seatbacks and the folded up 3rd row seats where that isn't possible in the 2008 model.
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