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Chevy Tahoe Door Lock Problem



  • Has anyone had any luck or have any feedback on this company that rebuilds these original parts?

  • rosieleerosielee Posts: 2
    MrShift the dealer dropped the ball on the repairs. They said they lowered the sale price and if I wanted the locks fixed they'd have to raise it back up. The repairs are over 900$. I will never purchase a vehicle from them again I can guarantee that. I think they knew it was broken from the get go and overlooked it because they knew it was an expensive fix. I was working with Amber at gm customer service and she said she was working with the Chevy dealer in my area who in turn told me the vehicle is out of its warranty you're bumming. After they charged 115.50 to diagnose the problem we already knew it was having. Pathetic really. This should be a recall if so many people are having the same issues.
  • Rosie, check out the link I posted above your post. Gruven makes their own motors to replace the crappy ones GM has been using. Pretty inexpensive when you compare it to the dealer prices.

  • a2ta2t Posts: 21

    Again, please visit this thread :smile:
    See this thread for the repair. GM is not going to solve this issue. -27064/index3.html#post249087

    Then click on the picture of the Tahoe. You will see the method used to repair these FAULTY actuators. The GM trolls on here are NOT going to do anything other than run you around.

    If the truck is out of warranty, its completely up to whatever GM dealer you take your truck to. There is no need to "contact" social media @ GM. They are merely hired trolls who are on all the GM forums, running customers around in circles.

    If you want to see if GM will fix it, go to a dealer and ask. I can already tell you, you are wasting your time if out of warranty. Click the link above, do the repair, and be done with the issue once and forall.

    Even if GM did somehow replace your door locks free, they would just break again in short order because their door lock units are very poor quality.

    PS - Amber, tell Marry Barra the internet is still plugged in and working. Her strategy to "handle this" isnt working out too well.

  • a2ta2t Posts: 21

    FYI -- you might need to copy/paste the whole link into your browser.

  • dverrilldverrill Posts: 1

    I've had my 2 back door handles break 3 times now and this time I had to replace it out of pocket...$266...but they didn't fix the actuator that has also broken 3 times now...I've owned my '08 tahoe LTZ from start...and had 2 dealerships replace them previously thru warranty but not any more. So I'm actually extremely upset that it hasn't been recalled and now I will have to pay out of pocket again for this. PLEASE if anyone has a good link that works for a recall..or for a CS rep that is willing to work with us on this matter I'd appreciate it. But in the meantime I'm looking to replace this myself. Sadly because it is Limited Edition and NOT that many made they don't care to recall the chrome back doors nor the actuator. But if I missed something and they are willing to fix it under recall...please let me know. (I have low mileage still but it's been 6 yrs so ofc it's out of warranty)

  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,240

    Hello dverrill,

    We are sorry to hear of the repeat concerns you've experienced with your door handles on your 2008 Chevrolet Tahoe. We'd be happy to check your VIN for any recalls or service announcements and see what we can do for you. Please reach out to me with your contact information, VIN and mileage via email at I look forward to hearing from you!

    GM Customer Care

  • just bought a used 2008 suburban with 84K miles on it "as is" from a metropolitan ford in Minneapolis (a grossman dealership which sits next door to another grossman dealership, suburban chevrolet). the cruise control worked intermittently - salesperson pushed through that one with me but i was able to fix it with a google search, $12 part and a little elbow grease. also, the door lock actuators on front and rear passenger-side doors are bad as well. (didn't catch it when i did the test drive). my research indicates the dealerships are charging about $400 to replace each actuator, the part is $125. i did get a good deal on the vehicle (as long as nothing else is wrong with it) but it seams the consistent failure of the door lock actuators warrants a recall or class action lawsuit, especially for those who purchased their vehicles new.

    my second point is that the "as is" purchase allowances for auto dealers totally serve the auto industry/auto dealership at the expense of consumers. state's attorneys general offices need to revisit this across the country.

  • Hi, everyone. Yes my 2008 escalade power door lock (passenger rear) stopped working just like the rest of yours. Being a "super do it yourselfer" I tore the power lock mechanism out with enthusiasm prior to reading this whole blog. Expecting to find lack of lubrication as a problem like my windstar power door lock. Not so. The door lock truly would not work and was well lubricated.

    The little electric motor wasn't even trying. Or at least very much. The repair turned out to be rather complicated but not impossible. Firstly you must drill out the two rivets that hold the door lock mechanism together. Thank you GM for making everything "disposable". After the fix is done, I drilled and tapped the rivits with a M3x0.5 drill and tap (#35 drill if I recall) and used a bolt and rather large washer to hold the device back together again.

    However, upon taking the unit apart, I tried the little motor on 12 volts directly. Odd result, ran for a second and then slowed down to a crawl. WTF? DC motors either work or they don't, this made no sense.

    I carefully pried open the motor using an awl under the folded case tabs holding the brush and bushing carrier in the case.

    I found inside the dirty little motor, (which got a shot of carb cleaner to remove all the black particulate) a small semiconductor device, or what might be a tiny resistive overload protector.

    My best guess is that it works like self regulating heat tracing, increasing resistance as it heats up. Motor runs, draws current; heats resistor; resistor ohmic value increases, motor current drops, motor loses torque. Again I assume the purpose is to reduce current to the motor once the motor stalls at the end of the actuator operation. Seems awkward but hey, must be some reason for it.

    Bypassing the "resistive overload" directly with 12 volts to motor made it scream like no tomorrow. Perhaps a little too much. Heaven forbid the plastic gears and mechanisms in the door lock be designed strong enough to endure the raw power of a tiny DC motor.

    Perhaps a bigger concern would be overloading the drive IC's that power the door lock. That could be catastrophically expensive and painful if I got too overzealous bypassing the "resistor overload"

    Thus, I carefully added two connections in parallel with the internal "resistor overload" and brought the wiring out of the motor case to where I could "experiment" with current limiting techniques. I settled for a parallel 3.3 ohm resistor. So far so good.

    The actuator operates fairly "gently", perhaps a little more so than I would like. If I have to do this on another door, I will probably decrease to 2.5 ohms for a little more oomph.

    Good luck.

    BTW, Paul Gruven was kind enough to get back to me, and they appear to be selling replacement motors, and are rebuilding actuators for those of you who are not quite so mechanically inclined.

    IMHO, the motors in the actuators are poorly designed and GM, as usual, is picking bare minimum quality product to sell to their customers. My 2008 escalade has been pretty much my only "new" GM vehicle I have owned and probably will be my last. Too many problems caused by cost cutting.

    Cruise Control Brake Switch
    Rear Window Defogger Connection
    Console Glue Failure
    Transfer Case Seal Failure
    Chrome Plating Cosmetic Failure on 22" Rims
    Seal Failure on Corroding Rims (Nice "Made in China" stickers on the inside of the rim barrel!)
    Impact Sensor Failure
    Block heater temperature sensing stupidity. Using a block heater shouldn't throw and engine code!
    Poor range on remote start.
    and the writing is on the wall that the Cellular Phone system will be unsupported in the near future.

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