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Toyota Sienna Maintenance and Repair (2003 earlier)

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  • My wife managed to break the plastic handle on the rear door of our 01 Sienna. Seems lots of folks have too (not too surprising when you see they are just plastic) I decided that a new one would only break again, so devised a permanent fix. I put pictures on a page on our website. Have had many folks email me their thanks for this, which is fun. Here is the URL - No idea why I cannot add this as a link but it did not work.You can copy and paste into your browser (safer anyway)

    www.FindOneFindAll.com/toyota-sienna
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    the sienna has a timing belt and will require a change.
    I am not quite sure of the mileage although it should be done before the 100k mark.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    youre crusinig and when you want more pwr you put down your foot and for a brief moment the pedal vibrates and then goes away. I've had this happen and i've seen other talk about it too. i would have to say its normal.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 133
    90,000 miles is when it is recommended to change it.
  • deepandeepan Posts: 342
    is there a time limit as well. i.e lets say the van is at 60k but its 6 yrs from the in service date.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 133
    I'll check the manual this weekend and let you know what it says
  • My mechanic is baffled. He can't find any leaks, and no oil is being burned out of tailpipe. I bought this car used in February. I am religious about oil changes, but it keeps sucking it up.

    Is this the SLUDGE problem I've read about in earlier models? What can I (or my mechanic) do?

    Please help. I love my 2002 Sienna van. It is the nicest car I've ever had!

    Erin
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    It sounds like it could be the sludge problem, but the only way to really tell is to have your mechanic pull the valve cover. Signs of sludge include smoke in the exhaust, apparent rapid use of oil, check engine light is on, and sometimes you can actually see it in clumps on the dipstick when you check your oil.

    If it is sludge, you may be lucky because there is an 8 year unlimited mile warranty to cover a free repair, including cost of a rental/loaner car. I don't want to get your hopes up too much, though, because some 2002's aren't covered (those manufactured later in the year, check with Toyota for the VINs) and also, you will need to prove that the car has been reasonably maintained. Hopefully you got the maintenance records or can get them from the previous owner.
  • I have a 98 Sienna XLE the temperature controls on the heater does not want to work from time to time it will blow cold air on hot or cold setting than it will just start working I NEED HELP THIS IS MY WIFES VAN AND SHE DOESNT LIKE TO BE COLD!!!
  • Hi,

    I have the same problem on the driver side. Did you fix it? If you did, how? Thanks.
  • I have the 70K warranty on my 02 with the piston slap. My bet is the problem will finally fully blossom at 71K. LOL. That is why I made the service advisor note the noise on the paperwork. If this leads to blow-by or other things that could result in a major repair I want Toyota to cover it.
  • asdf5asdf5 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sienna and my power door is not working after changing the battery. It was working prior to changing the battery. I've cleaned the contacts with an eraser and also tried disconnecting the new battery for 1 minute to clear the computer. (I've done this twice, once with the door open and once with the door closed during the minute of being disconnected.) I also was careful not to "chatter" the positive cable while reconnecting it to the battery. Should I wait longer or are there any special tricks? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • I have the same problem with the same make/model - 98 Sienna! I'm wondering if the problem was the sun/moonrool drainage, or if it turned out to be something else. Did you ever get it fixed? Thanks for any input you might have.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    water in the front footwells can be indicative of a clogged Air Conditioner Evaporator Pan. you can turn on your AC (providing it isn't really cold outside), and see if condensate is leaving the vehicle from the hose going from the pan through the firewall and out onto the pavement.

    if you don't see water hitting the pavement (with the car running AC on, in park with emerg brake on) as you look under the vehicle from the side near the front passenger wheel area - that's probably the cause of the water.

    you may see water dripping into the footwell area when making turns and some vehicles make a hissing sound, sort of like water hitting a hot frying pan, when the drain clogs, and the evaporator coils come in contact with the water in an over-flowing evaporator pan.

    if this isn't your issue, and you suspect a moon-roof or sun-roof leak, ask a service tech (dealer or independant) where the drain channels / lines are located. maybe then you could take a sports bottle filled with water and pour it into the channels to see if they are blocked.

    i would also visually inspect the door rubber molding all around the sides and bottom of each door.

    any rust / holes in the wheel well area?

    if the water is in the back, do you have a bad seal on the hatch door, or debris in the channel / hatch hinge area?

    i guess these are some of the things that come to mind that i'd investigate a bit. good luck.
  • I have a 2001 Sienna and my power door is not working after changing the battery. It was working prior to changing the battery. I've cleaned the contacts with an eraser and also tried disconnecting the new battery for 1 minute to clear the computer. (I've done this twice, once with the door open and once with the door closed during the minute of being disconnected.) Should I wait longer or are there any special tricks? Any suggestions would be appreciated. The driver side works ok. The passenger side opens but will not close. The PWR DOOR dash light stays on along with the BRAKE light. I just found this forum tonight so please forgive me for asking this ? again. E-mail me with the responce also if you can. Thanks, TJ
  • I have a 2000 XLE and it seems to provid poor heat output in the front passenger side and no heat for the rear heating system. This is with the rear heat controls on full hot. Even front drivers side is slow to heat, but it eventually gets there. Any ideas??
  • I own a 2000 Toyota Sienna with CA emissions.

    When the millage reached ~55K the check engine light came on and the error codes read P1130 and P1135. After much investigating I determined the following facts:

    P1130, P1135
    1) This is the error code for Bank 1 Sensor 1 which is located in the exhaust manifold in the back near the fire wall (tough to repair yourself).

    2) Because I have a car with CA emissions (living in MA) my sensors are Air-Fuel ($375 ea) rather than the affordable O2 found on all federal emission cars. Never buy a CA emissions car unless you live in CA!

    3) No aftermarket sensor exists for this car, so I am stuck paying a hefty price tag.

    4) This is such a big problem that a class action suit was settled which will cover all the costs of the repair on a CA emission car. It appears that this only applies to people living in CA. Is this true?

    This all happened about 2 months ago and after some discussions with my dealer (and the fact that I was looking to buy a second car). The dealer decided to comp my repair. This made me happy as it saved me some bucks.

    A happy ending to my story, right? No...

    At ~59K miles my check engine light came back on and the engine started running a little rough. I took it in to AutoZone and they read the codes for me. P1150, P1155 Bank 2 Sensor 1. I can only assume this is the Air-Fuel sensor that is mounted in the exhaust manifold in the front of the engine (between engine and radiator).

    Since I am not sure I have any more leverage to get another comp repair I am looking to get some more information about if I am covered by the class action law suit?

    --Jonothan
  • I do not have all of the technical specifics yet but driving home Christmas night in a downpour we heard a loud thump underneath our 2002 Sienna followed by another thump a few minutes later. We assumed that we had hit debris in the road. The next day we discovered that the van had developed a power sucking, gas guzzling exhaust leak up near the engine. I figured the supposed debris we hit had punctured an exhaust pipe and we took the van to a local repair center to get it checked out. This is where I do not have the specifics but from what I can tell they found out that the bolts holding the catalytic converter to the exhaust pipe had both broken off and the converter is sliding up and down the sleave allowing air to leak. Since our van has only 45,000 miles and this is so unusual our repair center suggested that we should take it back to the dealer. I will take it in next week but wondered if anyone has heard of this problem and if there is a bulletin out on it.

    Thanks Clarke
  • paul6paul6 Posts: 14
    I''m also in Massachusetts with exactly the same failing sensor problem, however I wasn't as lucky as you and paid to have the first sensor replaced. Also as you do, I need to replace the front sensor. Our 2000LE is from Wellesley Toyota, where service has been OK but less than ideal.

    Please let me know if you find a good solution. This is an expensive repair every 60K. There's a third sensor in the system as well; expecting it to fail soon.
  • I went to the Toyota Dealer to replace/purchase my original factory battery. The Toyota replacement battery had a collar around the top, so the original battery factory shroud would not fit and had to be discarded. The battery did not have the "green eye" either.

    Why can't I find an exact replacement for the 2000 Sienna?
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