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2011 Hyundai Elantra



  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    Check the owner's manual. There should be a lockout in the trunk, usually that's on the latch itself, that disables the inside trunk release. I don't recall if the seatback releases are inside the trunk or not on the 2011 Elantra. If they are inside the trunk, and there's a deactivation for the inside trunk lid release, there's no way someone can get into the trunk even if they break a window. Also realize that if someone breaks a window and tries to open a door when the car is locked, the alarm will go off. Also, the alarm will go off if the trunk is opened without first unlocking the car with the keyfob.
  • The seat back releases are in the trunk.
  • I test drove the SE before buying the GLS. The SE has several improved features that would have been well worth the money if I had not been trying to hold down the note to stay within my son's budget. One of the features was the 17" wheels and different tires which seem to produce a better ride and more stability. Lower models come with either 15" or 16" wheels. I got the 16" alloy wheels. With the exception of rough roads at high speeds, the noise and ride quality are good. The SE was better but cost more - that's why they produce different versions. I am pleased with the GLS and would recommend it for the price. However, for a few hundred dollars more they could put in a spare, a trunk lock and improve the ride. Everthing else is at the top of the class. I still have a personal objection to non-transferable warranties that hurt the resale value. Hyundai, like some other manufacturers, has factored in that most owners will trade the vehicle before it reaches the time and mileage limits thereby reducing future warranty liabilities. My salesman, of course, failed to mention that the long warranties apply only to the first owner.
  • My salesperson told me that Hyundai would be coming out with a spare tire kit as an accessory soon. Of course, until I see it I believe him as much as your salesman re: the warranty.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,139
    I am a little fuzzy, but I thought the one I looked at back in december had a tire added. either that, or it was on the sticker as a delete credit?

    Might be getting confused, since the Cruz I also saw at about the same time had the same deal.

    Me, I ain't taking it without a tire in there!

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Somewhere recently i read a guy went to wrecking yard and picked up a fullsize from a 2010. As long as bolt pattern and clearances and outside perimeter is adhered to, I think that is the best way to go. It will cost half what a new one from the dealer would charge.
    Personally, I think that an OEM spare including same allow design, should be part of any package. It is on my CRV and when I rotate my tires, I intro'd the spare so that it becomes part of the rotation routine. In doing that, it actually extends the life of the tires more than just the extra 20% because it allows for uneven wear tendencies to be spread around to the spare every 4th tire rotation sequence.

    But I can't tell you how rare this is. And close to home. Even my own nephew with his new FJ came with a matched spare, and later when he asked me what tires to buy, I found out he hadn't rotated the spare into the mix. I know I reminded him to do that back when he bought the truck. And boy did it cost him, because what he decided on, was different than the outide circumference of the OEM, so he had to buy a new spare also :( I think he sold the BRAND NEW OEM spare for a pittance of its worth.

    Some people are hard to help..
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,139
    A lot of cars just don't have a big enough well for a FS inflated tire. especially these days when some are really big!

    so unless you want it loose in the trunk, a donut might be the only way to go.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    I wasn't aware the 2011 Elantra is available in an SE trim. I thought it was just GLS and Limited.

    I would be really surprised if the lower-profile tires with 17" rims provided a better/smoother ride than 15" or 16" wheels. I would think it would be the opposite, although the 17" wheels should improve handling a bit.
  • When I test drove the GLS with 16" wheels and the Limited with 17" wheels, my experience was as you describe. The GLS was smoother, but, among other things, I liked the tautness of the Limited.
  • I am enjoying my new GLS and love the car. I am having one issue in that my front defrost light will not shut off. I can select the different heating means but at no point am I able to deactivate it. The rear defrost works fine. I checked the manual and saw nothing to state if this is normal. Does anyone else notice this or can you turn on and off the front defroster. I would have liked a spare as well
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,681
    So for example, when you select "front vents", the air is still blowing out of the front defroster vents instead of the front dash vents? Weird.
  • Thanks for the reply. No the functionality is fine. The issue is it won't "shut off" or more accurately the light stays on. I can hit the button for the rear defrost and it will light up or light off. But the front defrost light is staying on. I can't seem to deactivate it. Perhaps it's just a minor glitch.
  • Simply select another air flow pattern like the upper vents or the floor vents. The defrost light will turn off and the light for the airflow selected will illuminate.
  • Thanks for the reply. I did noticed that I can do that, but I thought it odd that I had to have some form of vent/deforst action on and can't jsut shut it all down. Maybe that's just the way the cars are made know where you must have some action taking place.
  • The rear defroster in my old mercedes has an automatic shutoff after xx minutes. Once it is on, it won't turn off by the pressing the button again.

    Guess the thinking here is if you change the airflow you don't need the defroster anymore and it disengages it.
  • OK. Thanks for the infpu. Appreciate it.
  • My two week old 2011 Elantra (approx. 450 miles on it at this moment) has an odd engine sound that sounds like marbles in the engine. I first noticed it on the way home from the dealership after purchasing the car a couple weeks back. It is quite noticeable when the gas pedal is just barely depressed. When I mentioned it to the service tech at the dealership, he said "It's just the valve timing, as long as it's not too loud don't worry about it." Not sure I'm buying that, but if it is the valve timing (CVVT), I'm worried that it will only get worse and by the time the car has 50,000 miles on it the engine could require replacement. My old Taurus with 143,000 miles on it sounded 'newer' than my new Elantra, and honestly, it's a bit frustrating as it is diminishing my enjoyment of an otherwise stellar vehicle.

    Has anyone else heard the same noise in their new Elantra? If so, any info on what could be causing it? thanks.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    Not sure about the sound of marbles, but direct injection engines do tend to have more engine noise. I'd describe it more like a rough idle/cold engine sound than marbles.

    You might go back to the dealer & see if some of the Elantras on the lot exhibit the same noise. If they don't, you've got a case that they need to take a look at your car.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,139
    The Elantra does not have a DI engine yet. So that isn't it.

    I agree though that noises are highly subjective. and real hard to diagnose over the internet! So I always recomment driving a couple of other new cars to compare. Shouldn't have to go far, just around the lot.

    if they are the same, then it is just normal. If they don't sound like yours, make them look at it harder.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,232
    You are correct about the Elantra not (yet) having a DI engine. My bad for thinking it had one.
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