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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006

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  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Wheels were removed to effect the tire rotation. Again, it was the only service I paid for, but it turned out that the light-duty tech. only tightened the lug nuts finger-tight at best. The driver's side front wheel was shaking on the studs d/t it not being tightened. I do no know why the tech. did not hear the noise when he drove the RAV onto the exit drive for pick-up. Could be the shop was too noisy, but the lead-mechanic that checked the vehicle was very comepetent or seemed so, who re-checked everything. Both the service writer and lead-mechanic were very embarrassed. Both told me that this shouldn't have happened. I agree, but things do happen and that's why it's good to take it back immediately if strange noises
    appear, that weren't there before. Like I say, not sure what happened to the tech., if he's still there or what....

    The more I though about it, it was potentially life threatening and could have been
    disasterous had the wheel fallen off at speed on the road or freeway. Worse yet, it could've been my wife driving the vehicle. I will probably go back to the dealership, because it's where I purchased the vehicle and d/t the fact that they will recognize me, may take better care next time. We'll see....
  • jimdsailjimdsail Posts: 1
    Wwest,

    This is not related to the RAV-4 thread but I am desperate for some advice regarding a 2002 Sequoia. . .

    My wife drives this car, and she has experienced power failure a couple times when she is slowing down into a parking spot or our driveway and she turns off the ac but leaves the fan running. When she does this, the power cuts out and if she hits the gas nothing happens. The battery light comes on but the fan and stereo continue to operate. She can then re-start the vehicle without incident. I think her dad told her years ago to turn off the AC because it is hard on the engine to start the car with the AC on. I don't know if this is valid or not, but no service garages can tell me what this might be without hooking it up to the diagnostic computer.

    Also. . . When I turn off the vehicle I hear some light knocking and pinging almost like engine and mechanisms are "settling" for about 2-3 minutes then it stops. Is this normal?
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    As for the power failure, it sounds as though you might be experiencing a wiring/electrical issue.

    For the knocking and pinging after you turn the truck off, it's the exhaust, heat shields, engine, etc. cooling and contracting. This is normal.

    Hope this helps.

    Ken
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    BTW: the dealership that did the service (tire rotation/oil change), on top of giving me a 1-yrs. oil change coupons and service credit, also refunded my $9.95 for the tire rotation. The service writer said he couldn't take my money if the service wasn't done right to begin with.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    My best guess is that you need to clean and burnish the battery connection posts and cable terminals. When she turns off the A/C that will generally result in a huge electrical spike as the electromagnetic field in the A/C compressor clutch collapses.

    With a good solid battery connection the spike is absorbed by the mass of the battery electrodes. Otherwise the spike can easily disrupt, or even permanently damage, any or all of the Sequoia's ECU frunctions.

    And you can tell your wife that the engine ECU will not allow the A/C compressor clutch to be engaged until the engine is running smoothly after a startup. The engine ECU will also disable the A/C compressor clutch at WOT and if the engine begins to overheat.

    Pinging I agree could be things simply cooling down. Knocking is yet another story. Are you certain the engine isn't dieseling, continuing to run, after you turn it off?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,260

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • murphy17murphy17 Posts: 1
    I'm a new driver looking to possably buy a 1997 rav4. My family only drives Fords and we always have trouble at 90,000miles, quite frankly the cars crap out and need major repairs. I was wondering what the average milage for Toyotas is when they need major repairs such as transmaition, belts, breaks etc. Thanks
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Quite honestly, it varies by the individual vehicle and how it has been maintained. However, that being said, in 10+ years of working with and owning Toyota's, there are more vehicles than I can count that have 200,000+ miles with no Major repairs. Meaning, transmission or engine issues.

    Again, noone has a crystal ball, so who knows, but you certainly have better odds on a vehicle like this than many others.

    Toyota Ken
  • rav4urav4u Posts: 21
    In an age of globalization, outsourcing and cheap labor markets, I believe it's pretty much the luck of the draw as to what you will get in vehicle quality. Parts or preassembeld units can come from just about anywhere. If you ask anyone they can name someone who has had almost any high mileage vehicle with little trouble. My Toyota was delivered with more defects than my last two Chevy's combined so who knows how well it will do long term if I keep it that long. If I were buying with the intentions of keeping vehicle a long time I'd just buy what I'd be happy with long term and let the reliability chips fall wherever they do.
  • claire23claire23 Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 RAV4 and I'm a little confused about the 4WD. I'm terrible with cars and I might sound stupid with this, but is 4WD always on in a RAV4? I don't see any switchs that turn it on or off. Just want to know how it works! Thanks!
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    It is a full-time AWD system on the RAV-4. There is a great forum in the Toyota forums titled "Toyota 4wd systems expained that will give you more information than you probably want to know about how the systems work if you want detailed info.

    Ken
  • escapenutescapenut Posts: 117
    Took a trip to Arkansas over the July 4th weekend. ~600 miles round-trip. Mostly interstate with some state roads. Best mileage was 29 MPG, with the worst
    at 24 MPG. Was really hoping to get 30 MPG, but I guess my conservation skills
    weren't up to the task. But not too bad considering I'd say we had a full-load with
    three (3) adults, luggage, coolers, etc..

    The RAV4 ran without complaint; didn't struggle passing if needed, and
    kept speed at cruise w/o problem. Good traveling vehicle for two (2) adults and maybe a couple of kids, but for three (3) adults it was kind of cozy. A/C seemed a little weak at times, but it was hot at 95+ degrees with the heat index hovering in the 100+ degree range. The teneral comfort was good in the vehicle though.

    I've said it before; this is a good, small, SUV, and I'd rate it near the top of the class for most everybody's needs in this class. ;) ;)
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Look at Consumer Reports, JD Power, & elsewhere on the internet. You will find that Toyota is the most reliable make out there (Lexus is THE most, but it is Toyota's luxury brand.) Many will debate this, but based on the evidence we have, it is true. Also, do a search for one particular site on the internet dedicated to the Rav4. On a 97, it check for a timing belt change, and make sure all routine maintenance was done (fluids, especially). The only thing I can think of is that some of the older Ravs with manual trannys had 5th gear problems that Toyota fixed under warranty.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    You can dramatically increase the efficiency of your A/C by putting a manual shutoff valve in line with the heater core. Leave it shut off during the summer months. In the meantime it helps if you put the system in max cooling and then use the blower to regulate your comfort level.

    Temperatures in Tyronza weren't as bad as in the past, tolerable this year.
  • dan1701adan1701a Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I just bought a 1999 RAV4 (this morning, in fact), based on a couple of things:

    1) the fact that we (my wife and I) had done mucho research into the RAV4, with the original intent of buying a new one, and

    2) the fact that the one we bought only had 65,000 miles on it.

    I was initially very pleased during my test drive, and I am excited to drive it. It is very clean on the inside, no body dents or dings, and the engine is exceptionally clean and free of seepage. However, I was wondering a couple of things. The Edmunds.com website maintenance schedule on the 1999 RAV4 calls for oil changes every 5,000 miles, instead of every 3,000. Is this normal, in your experience?

    Also, in looking through the maintenance records on this particular vehicle, I can find no evidence that things like coolant flushes or spark plug replacements were ever done. Can anyone tell me, on a car that is driven around 10,000 miles a year, if such things are absolutely necessary? And what kind of trouble will I find when I finally do decide to have these things checked?

    One more question: I get an "Error 1" on the CD player (in-dash 3-disc changer), which in the owners' manual means the disc is either scratched, dirty, or put in backwards. (The test disc was a new, clean, unscratched disc, and we followed the instructions for putting the discs in the changer.) The original owner stated he never used it. Does anyone know about the 3-disc changer, and if I can simply clean it to make it work, or is this a symptom of a deeper problem?

    Overall, this former GM driver (still own a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, only because it hasn't fallen apart on me yet) is looking forward to the experience of owning a Toyota, because of all the good things I've heard about their reliability. If anyoen can give me some answers to the above questions, I'd be grateful. Thanks.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,668
    Follow the owner's manual for all maintenance schedules - I think 5,000 oil changes is the severe (city, short trips, etc.) schedule. As far as coolant, plugs, tranny fluid, transfer case fluid, rear differential fluid - follow owner's manual. I think coolant is supposed to be changed every 2 years or 30,000 miles, whichever is sooner. Plugs I think are regular, non-irridium in older Ravs, so they would need to be changed every 30,000. After 6 years and 65,000, I'd take a close look at the belts and probably change them. Clean the throttle body, change air filter, pcv valve, maybe even change brake fluid and power steering fluid.
    Don't know about CD.
  • ecuakid24ecuakid24 Posts: 1
    This may be a stupid question but here goes....

    I just bought a 2005 RAV 4 base model and wanted to install fog lights on my own. The black holes are not there but they are filled with the turning signal ones. Can I remove those and install my fog lights?
  • titan613titan613 Posts: 2
    My wife has a 2004 RAV4 L with 12K miles. About 4 weeks ago, she began to have difficulty on start up... especially in the morning. The engine would turn over, but not start immediately.

    She had been using 87 octane. I thought she may have purchased some bad gas. Once the tank was empty, I added some Chevron gas additive and filled up with premium. The problem improved, but it did not completely go away. I filled up with another tank of premium... and then on the third week, I added another Chevron treatment with a full tank of premium fuel.

    The problem remains. The engine has to turn over at least 3 times before start up... but may be as many as 5-7 times. Acceleration seems normal... though I think it is not as strong as it once was.

    She has had zero problems with the RAV4 prior to this. She has had regular oil changes at the dealer every 3-4K miles.

    Has anyone had any experience with this issue? Any advice before we head to the dreaded dealer.

    Thanks
  • msyring1msyring1 Posts: 3
    Hello

    I am looking for some advice in regards to my 2002 Rav4. I just recently hit 80,000 miles, and the car has started to shake when i am on the highway, and go about 65 MPH or higher. You can especially feel the steering wheel shake, and it is very frustrating.

    I completed the 60K mile maintenance through Toyota at about 65K miles. At that time, they said everything looked good. They did NOT change the spark plugs, as i believe they are the Iridium Spark plugs. Do you think i should have the spark plugs changed? Would this stop the shaking? Any advice would help!!!
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    From what you're describing, it sounds like one or more of the tires are out of ballance. One of the weights may have fallen off the wheel. Before looking into something more substantial, I'd have the wheels checked.

    Ken
  • msyring1msyring1 Posts: 3
    Thanks Ken...

    I'll have the tires looked at first. Now that you mention it, I believe I am due for a rotation and allignment check.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Posts: 897
    Something like that, I always recommend looking into the basics first. Sort of like the person saying that their lamp won't work and calling in an electrician to rewire the house and he walks in and flips the switch... It's easy enough to find out if it is something more involved if needed, but always look for the most simple explanation first.

    Ken
  • paulcudlippaulcudlip Posts: 33
    It is another photo shopped mock-up. The new 2006 Toyota RAV 4 will be unveiled at the Tokyo Auto Show in October. The new 2006 RAV 4 will be almost as long as the Highlander and will have a V-6 engine option.
  • petlpetl Posts: 610
    It states at the bottom of the picture (in french) that it was "retouched" by computer. It definately isn't the new RAV.
  • Why, oh why didn't I see the post in another forun, which advised that you buy the tonneau cover WITH the car from the dealer? It costs only $90 MSRP then, but after-market is close to $600! :confuse: Makes no sense whatsoever. Anyone know where I can purchase one at a reasonable price? I've the rear privacy glass, but I'd feel more comfortable stowing away things in the rear when I have a cover.

    Also, any suggestions on the best kind of aftermarket security system to get installed, and where? I am a (very) new owner, and am more or less clueless about this. The dealer would be an obvious source of such info./ services, but we all know the kind of mark-up I'd have to pay there!

    Any suggestions/ help would be much appreciated.
  • I am a first time Toyota buyer. 1999 Toyota Rav 4 110,000 miles. When I start the engine after sitting overnight, I a little "blue" smoke from the exhaust. Just for a few seconds. Is this bad seals or could it be something else? No other smoke at all. Doesn't seem to "burn" any oil though.If it is seals, what is athe cost to repair? It doesnt bother anybody but me. Just another gnat bite of life, I guess. Also, I have the plastic door trim allthe way down the sides of the car that covers about the bottom 1/3. Some genius tried to wax the plastic and I have dried wax all over the sides and bumpers. Anyone have a suggestion as to how to remove this wax?
    Any help would be appreciated
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,260
    I think I'd ask over in Store Bought Waxes Part II (No Zaino Posts) or Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair about the dried wax.

    Don't be surprised if someone suggests creamy peanut butter. :-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    I've heard of some Gen 1 RAV4s that had valve guide seals that wore out too soon. Sounds like the root of your start-up smoke problem.
    Some were factory-covered. Maybe yours are?
    Not sure if it amounts to much either way.
    Good luck.

    And, yeah, use peanut butter to remove the wax from the plastic.

    RAV on.
  • nu2rav4nu2rav4 Posts: 1
    Hello all,
    I bought a Rav4 (2001) on July 22. My first! And I want to get an aftermarket remote start system with keyless entry and alarm. I want to know if I will have any trouble with the Rav4? I found a place that will do it for $399 total. Thank you in advance!
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