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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006

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Comments

  • I've been looking at RAV4's and I don't see the Rear Bumper. I noticed some that seem to have a small add-on rear bumper. I saw one the other day, going down the road with the rear hatch door smashed in all the way to the rear tires.
    Where is the Rear Bumper?
  • andrelaplumeandrelaplume Posts: 934
    So I understand, you bought a new 06 RAV, drove it a few miles, noticed a problem, took it back and traded it for a Camry? Did they give you a full credit? Did you suffer a huge loss? We just got an 06 RAV, so far so good. We also have an 02 Camry...very nice as well but a dog in the rain and snow.
  • flavioguyflavioguy Posts: 2
    I don't have the AWD but FWD so take note. I replaced the factory tires with Dunlop Rover A/T (recommended on Consumer Reports) - P215/70R-16. They are wearing very well, grip well and are quiet (SO much more than the factory tires).
    My 2 cents.....
  • flavioguyflavioguy Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 RAV4 FWD model with 39K miles. At ~ 17K miles I started to notice pinging. The dealer said there's nothing wrong.....waited a bit longer (1 year or so) and took it back again. Dealer still said no problem, run higher octane fuel (an expensive solution these days). Has anyone else experienced this problem? Your solutions?
    Thanks
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    No pinging here, '01 at 71k miles

    Are you buying name-brand gas?

    Does the pinging vary if you buy from different stations?
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Thanks for the tip on the Dunlops. I've wondered about them. Last time I looked, they were priced right.

    And I like the Dunlop tire-shaped bridge I've seen on TV many times over the years at some race track (in England?).
  • Sorry to have to write this post, but when I saw the comments about the Dunlop Radial Rover A/T Tires, I just had to write, because I had bought a new set on 04/12/2003, and they are the very WORST TIRES I have ever owned. I have been looking at the RAV4 and a few other compact SUVs like the Honda Element and Saturn Vue and Pathfinder because I want to eventually get out of the gas guzzeling Explorer that I am now driving. I don't know how much difference it makes regarding the SIZE of the tires, or what VEHICLE they are mounted on, but the new ones I had put on my Explorer went bad, separating apart and failing, none caused a crash, one left me stranded for a bit. I always kept them balanced and rotated and properly inflated. The tires were doing well until the set had 25,344 miles on them, when the tire on the right front started to separate, the tread started bulging on one side, rode very bad, tire dealer would give me almost nothing for it, and I didn't want another one of those *@!#! tires on my vehicle, so I put on a used Goodyear Wranger tire in it's place. Then when the set had 27,247 miles on it, the tire on the right rear went bad and started separating. I replaced it with a used Goodyear Wrangler tire. I was getting really mad at these tires now, and hoped the other two tires would last the expected life of 40,000 to 45,000 miles. No such luck. When the remaining set had 31,093 miles on them, the tire on the left rear separated, then blew apart leaving me stranded in the middle of a long bridge late on Saturday night. I wasn't stranded for long, as I put on the spare and went on my way. The next day, Sunday, I went down to another tire place and had both left tires replaced with used Goodyear Wrangler tires. It's been about 2000 miles now with no more tire problems. Next set I get will NOT be Dunlops. I hope yours do better than mine did.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Thanks for the info.

    -ss4
  • kingkongvakingkongva Posts: 2
    i have 05 rav4. been running good. just took it to the dealer to have the 10 k mile check up. afterward, when i took it home, the service indicator light "maint'required" popped up. i have tried to look in the service manual but cant find anywhere to put the light out. i also tried to hold the trip reset stick and turn ignition to the on position and hold it for 10 sec( assuming it is the same as my honda) but no go. called the dealer, they asked me to take it back but it is a long way. anyone with rav4 can help me
    thx
  • dce33dce33 Posts: 6
    i have a rav 06 and brought it for a 3k service since it was a free offer from my dealer. When i reached the 5K mile, the maint reqd popped up, so i knew that they did not reset my maintenance indicator. I used to have a honda so i did the same way as it was a honda and it worked for me. You might just need to wait a little longer to hold the trip reset stick till the light flashes and goes off.
    Goodluck
  • kingkongvakingkongva Posts: 2
    will try that again. hopefully it will work
    thx
  • nvedmundnvedmund Posts: 2
    I have a similar problem. Engine is noisy sometime at start up and when idle. the clicking noise goes away at high speed, at idle, the noise returns. Have rule out belt extension. Could be timing chain? Have you fix this problem?
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    I guess you've already ruled out low on oil, or wrong weight (not 5w30)?

    You say this only happens sometimes. Does the weather seem to make a difference?

    Does it happen under acceleration?

    How many miles on the engine?
  • scottcascottca Posts: 12
    Love those Toyotas. We have a buick 81 skylark with only 35'000 miles (Mom's car) and a 1989 Toyota Camry with 150'000 miles. You guessed right. We will be keeping the 89 Camry as our second car to the Rav 4.
  • subarustewsubarustew Posts: 1
    This may be a little late, but if you still haven't found the problem and solved it already, here is what I did when my wife's car did the same thing. I found that it was leaking from the windshield underneath the trim at the top on the passenger side. Once the water got past the leaky spot where the sealant wasn't, it would run along the side of the forward pillar behind the plastic trim inside the car so you can't see it and would run out onto the floor on the passenger side. Once I located the area that was leaking at the top of the window by using a garden hose, I popped loose a section of the trim around the windshield using a putty knife and then squirted some 100% silicone II sealant under/around the area, and then replaced the trim (snaps back into place) and haven't had the problem since. Good luck.
  • nvedmundnvedmund Posts: 2
    I normally use 10w30, could this be the problem? Weather does not seem to be the problem. The hoise happen in cold and hot weather. Acceleration actually quiet the noise, Car has 80K miles on it.
    The only thing I can think off is the timing chain or the internal pulleys and sprockets. I just hope I don't have a bend valves or something like that. Another thing, if I remove the drive belt, the noise goes away....I know what you're might be thinking. It's not the tensioner..
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Try changing to the 5W-30 weight oil. It is what the mfr recommends, and it is a cheap way to eliminate one possible source of the problem. Can't hurt.

    After having an oil change, I had some minor tapping ('01 RAV4 w/62k miles at the time). When I did my own oil change the next time, using the 5W-30, the tapping went away. Made me wonder what the previous changer had used.

    Good luck.

    -ss4
  • tschneidtschneid Posts: 1
    Does anyon have experience towing a 3000 boat in hilly or mountainous country with the V6?? I am thinking of buying one but need to tow my boat
  • I started towing my boat with 2006 RAV4 V6 with towing package. The boat+trailer is at least 2400 lbs and probably closer to 3000 lbs. Drives like a dream. I would recommend trailer brakes and overdrive off and you should be OK.
  • gracejoangracejoan Posts: 11
    A friend who has a 2006 RAV 4 was in a fender bender accident...over $3000 in repairs...the manager of the collision repair shop advised him to get rid of the RAV..they were not safe and just junk vehicles.

    I'm on my 4th RAV..latest a 2006 Limited...love it.

    Would like to hear what others have to say about this.
    Thanks,

    Joan
  • $3000 is not much these days for repairs. If you get in a minor accident, it can set off the air bags, and that can cost a few grand right there.
  • gracejoangracejoan Posts: 11
    The cost of repairs was not really my concern. It was the comment from the collision manager about the RAV being so cheaply made and not a safe vehicle.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    If the body-shop manager's words were true, I think the govt & insur industry's crash test ratings would reflect that.
    But they don't.

    RAV on.

    -ss4
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,667
    Tell your friend to find a new body shop!!!!
  • jeyraudjeyraud Posts: 1
    I recently cracked the spare tire shell and am looking for a new one. Does anybody have a source? So far I can only find the cloth ones.
  • rray49rray49 Posts: 13
    I have an issue with the RS3200/keyless entry for my RAV4. There are times that I do not want the headlights to stay on for 30 seconds but I can't figure out if there is a way to selectively turn that feature off. I can select the chirping and alarms (valet) but not the lights apparently. Does anyone know how?

    Also, is there a way to turn the clock light up higher so I can see it? I've got the interior lights turned up as high as they can go.
  • suze24suze24 Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem. With the 2004 RAV, you just hold in the trip reset button, and then turn the ignition to ON...you'll see dashes and when they disappear, the light goes off. But I'm sure you figured it out already, since your message was from almost 2 years ago! I just wanted to post this, since I couldn't find anything. I had to figure it out myself!!!
  • mercaramercara Posts: 291
    Hi,

    I have a 2000 RAV4 AWD with 42000 miles on it. My check engine light came on twice a couple of months back and then went away by itself after a bit of driving. I assumed it was because of the Gas cap not being tightened.

    It came on again today so I used a ODBC-2 scanner and got code 1130 which means "Air fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance". The problem is that only cars with California Emmission requirements had the Air Fuel Sensor. The non California Emission cars came with the Heated Oxygen Sensor. Before, I order the part from the dealer, I would like to know if the car had the California Emmission system. The car was sold new in Maryland. Is there anyway to find out from the VIN number?
  • I checked the crash test ratings, Why dosn't it give any crash test from the REAR? I would be especially concerned about being hit from the REAR while I was driving a car that the manufacturer put NO REAR BUMPER on.
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