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Toyota RAV4 pre-2006



  • samocasamoca Posts: 1
    I am totally new to buying cars from dealers. My last car was actually inherited from a family member and my previous car I bought from a private party. I've only had older cars that I've basically driven into the ground. After looking around at Camrys at my local Toyota dealership, I tried a RAV4 and was quite smitten with the comfortable ride, etc. Had never considered an SUV but these do seem to get decent mileage. Anyway, I found a car listed on line from a small dealership near my house for a 2WD RAV4L 28,500 miles, clean Carfax, at $1500 less than the KBB and $2500 less than Edmunds TMV. (why are these different?) This totally confuses me and I'm not sure what to think. Why would they price it so low?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,943
  • My RAV4 2004 manual clearly states "Do not use chains on rear tires". I have the 4wd (as needed) manual model. I am currently hunting chains or cables, as I plan to take it up to the snow for the first time next weekend. Any other thoughts out there?
  • I purchased a 2005 Rav 4 in November. The ride is horrible I feel every bump on the road. Is anyone else having the same problem? I hate to have spent so much money and now I'm having back pains I hate to drive the car. What can I do???
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    Check the tire pressure - probably too high, dealer did not prep the car from the factory.
  • I have a '97 Rav 4 and replaced the clutch by a local mechanic, at 82,000 miles after I had owned the car three years and driven it 30,000.
    The new clutch, 16 months old, 12,000, is completely worn. I am NOT that terrible a driver.....I have two concerns...
    1) is this really possible without it being a defective part or poorly installed work...
    2) is the common practice a parts and labor warranty for this as the dealership has quoted me? or...will this hometown service station be able to charge me $1000 again?? Should they admit there was an installation problem??
    My recourse???
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    My opinion is that 82,000 is pretty early to need a new clutch, unless you are in San Fran (or other VERY hilly areas) or drive in heavy traffic constantly. It is possible for a driver to fry a clutch in less than 5,000 miles or even sooner. With that said, either the clutch replacment was a poor job, or you really abused it. Chances are, the clutch was slipping slightly after replacement so that it was never fully engaged and wore out. However, can you think of any time (even once) that you may have seriously slipped the clutch to the point of overheating? Let us know.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    There is yet another section of your owners manual that states the use of high traction, winter, tires on the front and not the rear will potentially result in loss of control.

    In fact it can be hazardous to operate a vehicle in adverse roadbed conditions with a significant level of better traction at the front versus the rear. Which is why NO tire shop will install tire studs on the front without the same on the rear and you should always install new tires on the rear when you only buy two.

    Then in the same owners manual Toyota and Lexus will blithely and lightly, with no warning of the hazards therefrom whatsoever, tell you to use snow chains only on the front.

    If you expect to have the need to use snowchains then do as I did and install 1.5" wheel spacers, on the rear at least. Then you can use snowchains safely, at the rear first and add them to the front if necessary.

    I added spacers all around and that allowed me to upgrade to 17X8 wheels and wider treaded tires. 3" wider stance results in more stability against rollover, better roadbed traction with the wider treads.

  • An excellent source for information on the RAV4 can be found in Edmund's Inside Line. Was looking at postings about two pages back and followed the link Full Test: 2006 Toyota RAV4. Very informative. My thanks to all the postings.
  • Just drove the new larger & improved 2006 RAV4 w/ the 3.5 269hp Avalon motor-very powerful & very, very smooth. Steering is heavy-typical for AWD. Very nice interior. Dashboard is a ittle glitzy. Very car like, but almost felt cramped with the center console taking up space. Anyway, drove at freeways speeds in low to moderate winds & rain--no problems--stayed "sure footed". A little too spendy right now, so I'm going more utilitarian, & saving about $4K and getting a Element EXP--which has more cargo capacity anyway--my primary interest.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    What is the cargo weight capacity of the Element, ep?

    I was recently in some heavy wind on a high suspension bridge (WW) over the Delaware River, and the RAV was a little too light for my comfort.

    Service Update: I had the front disc brakes replaced (first time) on my 01 RAV4 at 66,000 miles.
    And I just had to replace the original battery at 69,000 miles, 5.1 years, and 20 degrees F temperature.

  • cbmortoncbmorton Posts: 252
    Still on the original battery in my 2000 - coming up on six years. I keep expecting to have to replace it but it still tests OK and starts right up at -20.
  • nwbearnwbear Posts: 14
    I looked at the Element and it has a serious flaw - a 650 lb load limit. This includes passengers and cargo and makes the vehicle unusable for many, if not most people. Load it up with two or three guys and cargo for a trip and you're WAY over the limit. This also creates some serious liability issues if an accident occurs when the vehicle is loaded beyond specs.

    I'm looking at the RAV4 for that reason.
  • I changed my brakes a couple of months ago and ever since I have had a vibration in the drivers side front, when I drive down the interstate starting at 70 mph and lessening vibration at around 80 mph. My tires have been balanced 3 times and the last time I had them rotated. It has also developed a noise when braking (very loud-deep sound. There is no pulse in my brake pedal-I even had the rotors turned. I also checked the caliper and it seemed free-not sticking. Anyone else have this problem or any solutions?
  • newski3newski3 Posts: 42
    I just test drove a 2006 Rav 4 with a 4 cyl and 4 spd automatic trans and noticed a slight jerk when it shifted from 1st to second. It did it each time I started from a stopped position. I mentioned this to the Toyota sales guy who was riding with me but he didn't respond. I'm curious if all Rav 4's do this or was it just this particular SUV? This dealer had a V6 model (5 spd auto trans) but it also was out on a test drive so I wasn't able to drive it to compare with the 4 speed. I thought this very unusual for almost every magazine review I've seen on any Toyota car/SUV indicates how smooth the transmission is. Has anyone else observed this in a 4 spd auto??
  • I had the same problem with a 2003 Ford Taurus. It turned out to be a known problem when I brought it into the dealership. They had to install some cover around the air conditioning unit or something like that (under the hood). After that was done, there was no more flooding on the passenger-side floor.
  • Hi there, i have been hear lots of rattling noise from my spare tire cover. i took it back to toyota and they said they insulated more for me, but still has the same noise. i am waiting to hear from them again on how to fix this annoying problem. my rav4 2005 never ever made this noise. i was wondering if any of ya'll have been having this experience. it's when the motor is running, not even with a/c or radio on . thanks for any and all input.
  • dmh1dmh1 Posts: 4
    From the research I've done, apparently the 06 RAV does not have a rear window that opens or even lifts up. What is the sense in this? It is enough of a problem that I would eliminate it from my options even tho I love Toyota quality and handling. Anyone know if the 07 will have a functional window for those trips to Menard's and Home Depot?
  • dmh1dmh1 Posts: 4
    The Edmunds site indicates the towing capacity for BOTH the 06 RAV4 and Highlander with same size 6 cyl engines is the same at 3500#. Comparatively, the 2.4 L 4cyl RAV4 tows at max 1500#, which sounds reasonable to me. But the 2.4L 4cyl Highlander lists a whopping 3000# max towing capacity. Can anyone make sense of this for me, or is it an error?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Engine displacement is only one factor in towing capacity. The Highlander is a heavier vehicle than the RAV4.

    tidester, host
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