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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    You said you can use "vegemite to fix a leaking thermostat housing gasket" - what is vegemite?
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    It sounds to me like you have two problems.

    The stalling after starting could be a fuel delivery problem. It doesn't sound like a leaking manifold gasket problem as those tend to cause high and/or erratic idles. Then again maybe yours is erratic enough for it to die on the lower surges.

    I don't see how a fuel delivery problem could effect your starter's ability to crank the engine. It also doesn't sound like a typical battery problem as those are most pronounced with cold batteries on cold cars. However, sometimes battery problems tend to mimic other issues. I suspect you have a starter problem.

    If you want to start chasing this down yourself, I suggest you first inspect all your battery cables. Next, clean all the battery connections. If you have a voltmeter check your battery voltage when cold, with the engine running, and right after shutting down. If you find no surprises then inspecting and cleaning all the starter connections has been known to cure many starter woes.

    Upon further thinking I guess it is possible that a temperature sensor could be giving faulty readings. That would explain the apparent summer overheating, and maybe the engine dying and starting issues as the computer thinks the engine is much hotter or colder than it really is. This doesn't impress me as real likely, especially if you didn't get any computer codes noting a sensor problem.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    The first thing I thought is that it was a battery problem. However the car wasn't cold and I had just finished driving to work...which could mean the alternator isn't working? It would only crank 1.5 times and then stop (I tried about 5 times), like either a bad battery or the engine is seized? Very confusing...that is why I think it might be "the gasket problem"...the few times it stalled before it started but couldn't keep an idle, it seemed like the engine was losing vacuum?

    After work it started right up. I drove home, stopped and then tried to start it, it started right up. I am going to give it a once over during the day tomorrow and see what I find.

    I appreciate the feedback, thanks. I have a service appointment next week. My service manager said no problem, and was sure he could find the problem? I have my fingers crossed.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Posts: 640
    this is one of my favorite tidbits of information learned while a member of Edmunds...

    It does just what the name says, THEN you copy that shorter link here and avoid all the instructions on adding, deleting or copy/pasting to your browser line. I've used it a bunch.


  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Changed oil on my 98 Troop the other day. Added 5 quarts of oil, which is the stated capacity. Drove appx 50 miles, truck sat overnight, checked level in the morning and it was about 1/4 qt. below the top mark on the dipstick. Any ideas why? Seems to me the level should be at Full right after a change.

    I'm less than 1,000 miles into the current change interval, and it seems my Troop may be consuming more oil than in the past. Actually, oil consumption seems to be getting higher in the past 10k miles or so. Our Troop has 72k miles on it now.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    I've notice that on mine. In Oz, 4.7 litres is the specified capacity but I usually have to add about 4.9 litres to get it to the full mark on the dipstick. Once at full, I have no oil consumption at all.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Don't tell me you blindly added 5 quarts and never checked the dip stick? You should always check the dip stick after filling up your oil!

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    You can do "spell check" and that will allow longer URLs to be posted.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Saturday I fired up the truck and it did all the same things, stalled, ran rough, etc. Then the idle started bouncing? So I thought for sure it was the beginning of the intake manifold gasket problem.

    Then on Sunday it wouldn't crank/start at all. This time however I got the clicking noise that the starter makes when the battery is also lost all of the radio presets. So I ran out Sears and picked up a new battery (Diehard Silver). It seems to have resolved the issue. It didn't seem like a battery problem due to the fact that the problems would happen while running after startup...maybe the battery was shorting out the electrical system?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like typical Battery problems. I've seen where a dead battery could cause those problem. Glad it's worked out hopefully that's the only problem.

  • Some newer cars will run rough, or even die if the battery is weak. Unlike much older cars that could have their battery removed once started.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    That is what I be able to pull the battery out while running without a problem? I am not sure if all of the stalling I have experienced over the last month is battery related, but it seems like it. It may have been causing a short in the electrical system? too, I hope this will resolve my recent issues. I am glad it finally died in front of my house, and not somewhere on the road. Thanks.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I didn't check the dipstick the day I changed the oil but did check the next day. Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't see the problem in that. I mean, what could be wrong after the specified amount is added?

    Let's say you pour in 5 quarts during an oil & filter change. You finish up, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds, and shut it off. How soon will the oil actually travel to its normal resting place anyway? My impression was that the dipstick may not show Full right after a change - i.e., you need to run the engine for several minutes and let the oil settle or whatever.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Just that's what i've always done ever since I started doing oil changes. Never failed me yet. Checking is a good thing, never hurts to check.


  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    Bluedevils ... It doesn't take that long for the new oil to make its way to the sump. If you change the filter, add the oil, run the engine for a minute to fill the filter, turn off and wait a few minutes then take a reading with the dipstick (wipe it first, then dip).

    5 minutes will be more than adequate to allow everything to settle down.
  • Hi,

    I am interested on the upgrade. My '99 Passport is pinging all the time unless I use techron (every 3k miles) or use special grade fuel. That's enough for me. Unfortunately, my warranty already ran out. What is done in the upgrade? How much will I have to spend? Thank you very much in adbvance.

  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    drmperalta....I'm in the wrong hemisphere to comment on the anti-pinging program. However you state that it goes away when techron is added every 3k miles.

    Pinging can also be brought on by dirty injectors. The techron may be cleaning them up to a state where the pinging goes away for a while but they soon get deposits building up again. It may be worth checking whether they need an "off car" cleaning.

    It's good practice to run an injector treatment through every 5000kms (or 3000 miles) to keep the injectors clean anyway.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    My 97 Rodeo 3.2 L V6 takes 5 quarts 16 ounces of oil at a change per the manual. This brings the dipstick up to slightly oiver the full mark.

    Your manual says 5 quarts?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    but I'm pretty sure the manual does specify 5.0 quarts. This is on a 98 Trooper, which has the 3.5L V6 - similar to the 3.2L in a 97 Rodeo, but not exactly the same.
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