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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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  • :blush: Just purchased a 94 trooper at a steal "almost free" I love it. I got the tranny rebuilt but I don't know where to start with any other maintenance since no service record were left in the suv.It has 190000 and a recent oil change sticker. Only problems I noticed = driver and rear locks won't open with key and leaky power steering. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • I have a 87 Trooper II, 2.3L Gas. 269,000 miles.
    My instrument panel (oil, temp, and gas gauge)doesn't read anything. "E" on gas when the tank is full, no temp reading and no oil pressure. The panel is getting electricity and the gauges check out ok. Truck runs fine for it's age and miles.
    Where can I get a decent manual that goes into detail? Is there an online source? Anyone got any ideas?
    Thanks for your help.

    John
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, the best advice I have seen if you don't want to search this and similar forums is ebay, where manuals can be had fairly cheaply. Some ebay sites also offer the repair and parts list for your vehicle (often a copied series of pages). Online, the most complete I have seen is Alldata.com, but they are a subscription service. Alldata has the electrical diagrams and manuals for any vehicle sold in the United States. Good luck
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, Congrats on the 94 Trooper. I have the same year myself and have really enjoyed it. I was in the same position as you when I bought it, but I changed all the fluids, went to Mobil 1 in the engine and Amsoil Trans fluid for the auto trans. I also changed the front and rear differentials to synthetic Mobil 1 Light Truck Fluid, and the Power Steering fluid changed to regular Dexron II trans fluid per factor spec. The Transfer case uses regular 30 W motor oil. One thing you don't mention is the condition of the timing belt. Our year belt was meant to be changed every 60,000 miles. The engine, SOHC or DOHC, to the best of my knowledge, is an "interference" engine, which means if the timing belt breaks, catastrophic damage to the engine could result. On a used vehicle with no history you will have to decide when or how far you want to risk driving it without knowing the condition of the belt.
    My PS is leaky but not so bad that I want to change it yet. As for the door locks, do you mean that the key won't open the door at all, or that when you use the key the drivers door will unlock but not the rest of the power lock doors in the Trupr. The rear door is also keyed and has power locks, does it work? Perhaps this forum can supply more help once we know the particulars of the problem. Good Luck.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,297
    Online, the most complete I have seen is Alldata.com, but they are a subscription service

    Some public libraries (Seattle for instance) subscribe to Alldata, so check with your local reference librarian too.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • atfdmike,
    Thanks. I'm tracking down each sensor, now. Temp gauge is up and working. Now to find the gas and oil sensors.l
    Thanks for the Alldata intel.
  • ;) Thanks for the great advice. To clear up the door lock issue - i mean that the key won't turn the lock on the drivers side or the rear door. When i use the key & turn the passenger side lock all locks open but the passenger side rear and the rear door. The drivers side rear is stuck in child lock mode but- no big- my daughter sits there. I don't know how to judge the condition of the timing belt. The engine doesn't tick though. i looked inside of the window and there is a recent oil change reminder that hasn't expired yet.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I would try using a light lubricant or specialty lock lubricant available at the hardware or auto parts store to try and loosen the lock mechanism (tumblers?) first. After lubricating, gently work the key back and forth to see if it frees up. It is not uncommon for the rear door to freeze due to dirt, etc; that circulate back there.
    If lubricant and patience does not work, then the inner door panel can be removed to see if there is something else physically keeping the lock from turning, such as a rod, frozen latch lever, or frozen power door lock module.

    The timing belt is very important. There is no easy way to check it short of removing the timing belt covers to look at it. If you decide to do that, you may as well plan on changing the belt and any other parts that may look worn, as removing the cover is a lot of work. I guess you will have to use your best judgement on what will work for you. IS there a dealer ID anywhere on the trupr that you might call to find a service history using the VIN, or a former owner to contact? Good luck.
  • rxtrxt Posts: 1
    My accelerator pedal's cover keeps falling off
    any ideas where i can get a replacement
  • my fuel indicator never goes above 1/2 or below 1/4. Is this very costly to fix?

    Thanks for the help.
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    It is very common on the Rodeos like after 6-8 years of use, it is due to a part worning out in the Fuel Sending Unit, the part is like $40, but you need to drop the fuel tank, take the whole sending unit and change this electro-mechanical part, sometimes you may have to change the entire fuel sending unit. Isuzu has redesigned this part for longer life to my knowledge, it is a labor intensive job and particularly removing the snap ring to pull out the sending unit. Hope this helps.
  • Hey whats up I am in Costa Rica and have a 91 trooper that runs great for the most part but when I first start it and start driving usually after 5 minutes or so the first time I come to a stop it flashes check Trans I turn it off and back on and its fine until the next time I turn off for a while and turn back on and it repeats what was the answer for you you seam to have had the same prob mine is a V6 automatic......Rick
  • My 91 automatic trooper V6 has a check trans light come on and flash only after the first time I start in the day it goes to a 3rd gear safety mode and I shut off restart and its fine for the rest of the day...any ideas
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    Hello Everyone….!

    First of all, I want to say that it is GREAT to find a Trooper forum running around out there. This forum was quite difficult to find. It’s a great pleasure to meet you all!

    6 months ago, I purchased a 1991 Isuzu Trooper 4x4 5 speed manual Trans with a 2.8 litter 6 cylinder. The truck it in excellent condition! It’s the beautiful color of red with nearly perfect interior with no dents or scratches. When I first purchased it, I went out of my way to have a bunch of stuff done it to make sure everything was up to par. I changed all fluids. I.e.: oil, manual trans fluids, flush and fill coolant, engine flush, fuel system flush, break fluid, AC, etc… I also had the breaks done all around, new tires, new ac compressor end dryer, shocks, and tune-up with new plugs/wires/roter/distributer cap. I look at all of this as to be preventive medicine. Always better to be safe then sorry.
    I do have one problem though that maybe you all can help me resolve. I live here in Denver Colorado. And being in the mountains, there are its challenges when running up and down in the hills. The problem I have is horse power. Not to long ago, I brought my children up in the mountains to go camping. We had a blast! It was the first time I was able to run my truck in four wheel drive! It went everywhere anyone else could go and much more! I was really amazed by its performance! The unfortunate problem I have it when the truck is running high end. When I shoot up into the mountains via the highway, I’ll hit around 65 mph. Once I start to hit any kind incline (and the incline doesn’t have to be much), my truck starts to bog down. I will be going 65 mph in fifth gear, and then I will have to work down into fourth, and so forth. My truck holds up great in first thru third gear. It is nice, but I find myself holding traffic back because I am not able to increase my truck speed up “any hill” at fourth or fifth gear. I am boggled by this. Could it be a sensor of some sort? Oxygen or Map sensor? Everyone tells me that my truck is just old, and I will just have to deal with it. I do try to keep that in mind, but when I’m running up any kind of incline or inner city hill, and see a U-go (however you spell it), or an old Datson passing me bye, I have to wonder if there is maybe a problem here. If there is anyone out there who can help me in anyway with this, It would be GREATLY appreciated…. Oh, and by the way, I have so many people come up and ask me about my truck. They've never seen one in such great condition! There doesn't seem to be any nice ones running around out there these day! It's to bad, I love my Trooper!

    Maddy :sick:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, as long as you are not getting a check engine light then you might assume that all is working as best it can. The 2.8 was a seriously underpowered motor to start with, and I believe it is based on the GM 2.8, which also was sluggish. The good thing about your motor is that it has torque at the low end and it is quite durable. Given your location, I am not surprised that your "uphill" performance is poor. Your uphills are at the high end of the spectrum! :P Your vehicle is also at least 15 years old, so the motor is not brand new! It sounds like you are doing everything right so relax and enjoy the scenery!
    One owners opinion. Good luck.
  • Bought a used 1995 Trooper S, and it has had a progressively worsening leak of power steering fluid. Took it to the shop (I'm not that handy) and replaced the hose, still leaks like before. It's almost like it's shooting out of the receptacle, because there's always about an inch to two inches in the bottom of the receptacle every time I look, but it's not enough to keep the p/s working. It's already dripped through and corroded out the alternator once, apparently, and I'm worried about replacing it again. Anyone have a similar problem? Do I need to replace the apparatus itself, or is the hose just not put on right? TIA for all help.
  • I have a 2001 Trooper that I bought new. While driving a few weeks ago at night, I turned on the driver's side overhead map light and after a minute the actual switch fell down from above, turning the light off. The next day the passenger side switch did the same thing. Upon inspection, both of these switches are held in by a plastic housing that "clips" into the overhead console. The plastic must have somehow been defective and broke on both switches.

    Does anybody know how/where I can get replacement parts for this - used is fine? Has anybody had a similar problem? This seems very odd to me... Any comment is welcomed!
  • I purchased this vehicle back in November and it is rough, but, serves its purpose of hauling around my dog and small furniture. I recently had clutch system replaced and ever since then coincidently or not the check engine light has been coming on.

    The light comes on about 10-15 minutes into the first drive in the morning. If I stop for coffee for five minutes witht he engine turned off I get back in and there is no check engine light. But as I begin to travel down the road a few minutes later it will come back on.

    Thoughts --- by the way I am not a mechanic so advice in laymens terms would be appreciated.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    There should be a code set if your light is coming on. A search of the isuzu forum should tell you where your diagnostic connector is and how to read the codes. Post what you find and maybe more help will follow. Good luck
  • Hey there; Mike here in Washington state. 91 trooper v-6.
    I too, have the same trans. light issue. Mostly, this winter
    when it's colder. Coming to a stop I generally can hear a faint click, the light wil come on flashing, and the trans remains in high gear. after turning off and restarting, the gears return to normal. I have taken the truck in and have had 0 luck with diagnostics in the past. Have you had any success finding out the problem / and solution. Please let me know.
    Thanks Mike
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    Search for my other posts on this issue, it is most probably the Transmission Mode Switch, also known as Range Switch etc, it is located on the driver side of the transmission in Rodeo, it is an elctro-mechanical part, which tells the ECM which gear the transmission is in. It is a common problem and the best solution is to change the switch, the part costs around $150 plus labor. you may want to eliminate the Transmission oil being low or pitch black if you have not checked/changed the Transmission oil in a while. You may definetly want to get the code read before jumping to any conclusions, these are the hints only. Good Luck
  • tntmythtntmyth Posts: 70
    Joe,
    Did you ever figure out a way to get the front turning assembly out on an Isuzu Troooper 98-2002? I am afraid if I pull any harder, I will break it. I did take out the screw on top. I read the answers to your message that there is a plastic stud in the back of the assembly going into the fender. Did you find a special tool to use? I tried a plastic spoon to pry it out and the spoon broke! I am considering taking the Trooper in to the Isuzu dealer as I don't see any alternative. Seems silly to have the dealer change a lightbulb.
    Thanks!
    Gary
  • I just replaced my front turn signal bulbs. One burnt out, so since I bought a pair of replacements I decided to change both. The left one came off really easy. The right one was tough, so I did not take it off the first try. I waited till I had more than a few minutes to work on it so I would not be in a hurry. With a long time of gentle but determined wiggling the left one popped out just like the right one. No damage to either of them. Once out the bulb socket has a 1/4 turn bayonet attachment to get access to swap the bulb.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    I finally had the Timing Belt replaced on my '00 Trooper Monday. It cost about $368 total, labor, part, tax, shop supplies...also, it needed 1/2 gallon on coolant to replace that lost during the installation. The part was just about $100 and labor a little over $200. They estimated about another $200 or so to add the water pump, but I decided to wait on that since I may keep the Trooper for another year or less. Oh, mileage is just a little over 111K.

    I used a local garage since they quoted about $300 less than the dealer ($850 for both water pump and timing belt at dealer, about $550 at the local garage.) I consider this garage to be reasonable, not rock bottom, just reasonable. But I'm satisfied with their work and comfortable with their work.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I wondered what parts they replaced on your trupr, as I just did my 94 and it cost me $184 to do the belt,idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and hydraulic pusher. Mine still had the old style pusher that has now been upgraded.I also did the water pump (which was a pain since the gasket was really stuck to the block) and that was an additional $65. It was a lot of work but I found it interesting, and now I feel more comfortable knowing what I have! I did the water pump along with the rest.
    I think you got a real reasonable price considering what has to be done just to get to the belt assembly. It took me the best part of 6 hours to do it myself, start to finish.
    I have now replaced the alternator, battery, starter along with the above, but I still like the vehicle. The engine is noisy though. I had hoped it would quiet down a little with the belt change, but no joy there.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    Just had the timing belt replaced. Other than 1/2 gallon coolant, those were the only parts. About $105 parts, and the labor was $220 or so, then tax & shop supplies. I think they charged about 2.5 hours labor. It would have added about $200 to have the water pump included...only about 1/2 additional labor. I called the dealer last fall and they quoted around $850 for changing the timing belt and water pump, so I finally broke down and got a local garage to do it. I'm thinking of replacing the Trooper in maybe a year or so, but might keep it several more years if it keeps going okay. The wife drives a loaded '04 Envoy XL and there are a couple of ways we might go.

    I like the Acadia/Outlook for a 7-8 passenger alternative, but don't think I need to replace the Trooper with that and have 2 high end vehicles...so, I might get a pretty basic Envoy (have seen them advertised for $22K) and look at the Acadia/Outlook when it is time to replace the Envoy XL. Not ready to jump on anything right now.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I think you might enjoy the base Envoy, as it seems to be a well engineered and established model now. The base vehicles are actually quite well turned out. The XL and Acadia are nice, but for styling and comfort, buying the vehicle to fit your needs might mean giving up the bigger passenger load for the price, comfort and utility, especially if you don't have to haul than many people.
    The Auto show is going on here in Michigan now, and there are some really nice deals out there right now.
    Thanks for the info on your trupr.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 838
    I like the Envoy XL my wife drives. I have gotten used to the extra room in the Trooper, Envoy is a little tighter. Base Envoy would probably be fine for me, only drawback is that we like power seats for the comfort and being able to get some thigh support. The Envoy XL is the SLT version even with good discounts and rebates was over $30K. I don't think we need 2 vehicles at $30K or more. Anyway, I'm thinking the Trooper has another year in it before we need to start looking at replacing one or both.

    We usually only haul a big load or more people on vacation to the Gulf coast. I have a 5'x12' trailer for big loads or dirt/mulch...got that when I went from an S10 to a SUV. So while I like a larger vehicle, I don't really have to have one.
  • kobokokoboko Posts: 34
    I just noticed the other day that after releasing the hand brake on my 2001 Trooper, the Brake light on dash remained on. This was after temps. dropped to -10F here. I initially thought it might be a stuck switch, but now thinking maybe it needs new pads or fluid is low. Does anybody know what triggers this brake light apart from the hand brake? I'm waiting till it warms up a little before i start troubleshooting in more detail. Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Low fluid level will cause the light to come on. If you don't have a leak in the system, then your pads are probably worn and need replacement.

    -mike
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