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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sante3sante3 Posts: 5
    I have a 91 trooper, that stopped running,i spray some gas inside the throttle body and it runs. I disconected the fuel line that goes to the fuel filter and turned the engine and no gas came out. The question is how can i check if the relay is bad or if the fuel pump is bad, i dont want to buy a fuel pump and then find out that its the relay. can anyone help me out? sante3 thanks.
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    Check the fuel filter first, it is located on underside of the Driver side door behind the running board or may be it is in the engine compartment. After an overnight parking, when you first turn the ignition ON, you should here the Fule Pump Pressurizing whinning sound if you try to listen for this sound coming from the fuel tank area. The relay is usually located in the fuse box under the hood on the passenger side.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Behind LH Side Of I/P, Above Kick Panel.
    should measure 80 Ohms resistance through coil, and you can jumper the pump from there to see if it turns on. Make sure you have power at the relay before you jumper. If power is there, and jumper is in place, then either bad pump, or connector or open circuit between relay and pump.
    Remember that the relay will only get a two second run time from the ecm, so you wont find power to the coil unless you are right there when you turn on the key to see it.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Posts: 843
    From etrailers.com web site on Weight Distribution systems... I would think that towing 5000 lbs with the Trooper would be much nicer with trailer brakes. I've kept mine to 3000-35000 lbs...comfortable unless making a sudden stop.

    Weight Distributing Hitch Systems are designed to increase the capacity of the towing system when added to a Class III, IV or V trailer hitch. The idea is to distribute the load of the trailer evenly to all of the tow vehicle and trailer wheels. To Accomplish this, spring bars are used to absorb load and level the trailer. This offers a more level ride, improved steering and increased braking control, all the while enhancing towing safety.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Here is a link that will take you to a reference to an Independent Organization that lists Makes and Brands of Motors that have exhibited interference......Good Reference although I have seen debate about the Isuzus! Better safe than sorry!

    http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/isuzu-trooper-articles.html
  • sante3sante3 Posts: 5
    Thank you for answering. I tried to start the car the next day and it ran for 10 miles, then all of the sudden after I turned it off it would not turn back on. I waited for an hour and it turned back on. Could this give you a better idea of what the problem might be? I changed the fuel filter on it already (before this happened). During the one hour wait we tried a new relay and it did not help start the car, so this leaves us with the fuel pump, or there anything else? Thank you,
    Santi3.
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    Please provide details to help understand the problem better, if the Trooper is cranking hard, but not starting, then check the Fule Pressure Regulator, it may be leaking, which cause loss of fuel pressure. if you hear the whinning noise of the Fuel Pump Pressurizing when you turn the ignition to ON, the pump is fine. Also, check the battery, alternator, MAP and MAF sensors and O2 Sensors.
  • sante3sante3 Posts: 5
    Hi let me start by telling you this is a 91 trooper, I bought it brand new. It has 178,000 miles and the fuel pump or pressurized regulator has never been changed. Luckily it stopped running in the garage, so I checked and I determined it was fuel. I sprayed some fuel in the throttle body and it ran for a few seconds. So I put all the components together thinking the problem was gone and the engine ran only for 10 miles, this time I was stuck by the Auto Parts and tried a new fuel pump relay. It did not help. Waited for 2 hours and the engine turned back on. Now it's sitting in the garage; I checked for the fuel pump to pressurize and did not hear anything, but the engine turned back on. Now it's sitting in the garage; I checked for the fuel pump to pressurize and did not hear anything, but the engine runs. Also, checked the fuel pressure regulator and there is no leak and no smell of gas anywhere. I hope this gives you a better idea. I really appreciate it.
    Sante3
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I assume you have the fuel injected engine since you refer to the throttle body. That being said, then the symptoms you describe sound like a fuel pump that is going bad. Intermittent operation is typical. A bad connection or break in the wire harness could also be at fault. You need to establish whether the pump is actually on each and everytime you attempt to start the engine.One guys opinion.
  • sante3sante3 Posts: 5
    Hi, how can i make sure that is not the fuel pump pressure regulator.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Only way to be sure is to put a fuel pressure test gauge on the fuel rail and see what pressure is being put out by the fuel pump. I think there is a fitting already on the rail for this purpose. This will tell you a) if the fuel pump is actually moving fuel at pressure and b)whether the fuel system is functioning by holding pressure when the pump turns off. If pressure drops drastically as soon as pump shuts off, it could be a faulty pressure regulator bleeding fuel back to tank. I don't think it is a faulty injector since you are obviously not getting gas to the cylinders to fire . Remember, please, that gas is extremely flammable and that there could be gas under pressure when you hook the gauge to the fuel rail, so keep trouble lights and wiring away while you perform the tests in case gas leaks or sprays out.
    One guys opinion.
  • sante3sante3 Posts: 5
    Thank you for the input. I guess I need a fuel pump.
    Sante
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    Hi All....!

    I was wondering if anyone out there would have a online/offline engine manual for my 1991 ISUZU TROOPER 5 SPEED 2.8 LITER. I am looking to change out my transmission, and I need to know the specs of what I'm in for.

    Thanks a Bunch....!

    Maddy... :)
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,881
    There's some links to check here:

    Online Repair Manuals

    If you find others, please let me know and we'll update the guide.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • donna48donna48 Posts: 1
    My wonderful husband bought an Isuzu manual and it only has info on Front wheel drive. Our 1991 Trooper is 4 wd and he needs to get the wheel housing off the axle spindle.

    HELP! He's dealing with CNX$$!! at the local parts store who have no idea about Isuzu troopers!

    Thanks and God bless,
    Donna
  • desimonesdesimones Posts: 18
    Go to Ebay and search for Isuzu Trooper Manual. I just purchased a Trooper CD-ROM ($15), which shows (in detailed diagrams and text) all of the cars components as well as how to repair/service and replace them. Mine was through a Canadian vendor. Just make sure that they cover the correct year.

    Dennis
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Manual or autolocking hubs?
  • bendezbendez Posts: 1
    Both lights on my '96 Trooper come on and off with no change in shifting or driving noticed. First mechanic read codes as a potential grounding problem, but can not find the problem. Any advice?
  • 57oldmike57oldmike Posts: 1
    I am trying to repair the window crank on this vehicle but can't even gain enough access to see if it can be repaired or replaced, any suggestions, I have had the panel off but have not removed the plastic cover yet.
  • When another customer in the Service Department commented as I was dropping off my '04 Ascender with 47,000 miles, that she ALSO had the same exact issues with her vehicle, I began to wonder if there are common electrical issues that haven't been corrected among other Ascender owners.

    The AC Blower fan became inoperative without blowing fuses. The problem was in the circuitry in which a Resister blew. Part cost is $145! Labor, add 2 hours since it is embedded deep behind the console dash.

    Perhaps related? Isolated "burnt bulbs" in right rear brake lamp that don't last more than a dozen illuminations.

    Electrical problems surface like water leaks; problems arise at the weakest point in the engineering. Anyone else experience such gremlin mysteries?
  • I am currently having the same problem with my 2004 asscender. The speed dial for the a/c or heat doesn't work except for the fifth speed. Can this be fixed without taking it into the dealer?
  • I ultimately had it corrected under warranty - a $240 part inside the electrical relay circuit; it takes more than 1.5 hr labor to pull apart the dash assembly and reassemble.
  • I was wondering if any one can help me.
    Last night after driving home and went to drive into my steep driveway and I noticed that my vehicle would not go into drive (Automatic), it will go into reverse, however if you put it into drive first and will not go into reverse.
    Also noticed the electric side mirrors were folding in (malfuntioning)
    Is this a ECM problem?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    The transmission is electronic and the mode switch is mounted on the trans where the shifter enters the trans. There are electrical contacts in it that are known to corrode or require adjustment. commonly there is a problem with shifting and the trans telltale lights not being correct with shifter position. There is a very specific way to set the mode switch up properly, I think if you do a forum search you can find it. IF not, post again and maybe someone can help. good luck
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    It would help to know what year and model, but in general, I don't think the ecm has anything to do with the mirrors. Sound like it could be a connector somewhere being loose or a bad switch for the mirror. If you have the 4L30E trans, the mode switch on the trans may need attention. They get corroded due to position and can cause shifter problems. Do a forum search to see what the general write ups are before tearing in to it. Good luck.
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    I really hope someone can help me. I ran into a situation today with my 1990 Isuzu Trooper 5 speed manual. With a 2.8 liter V6.

    Today I stopped to wash my car at the car wash. After I did so, I jumped on the hiway. About a miles down the freeway, My vehicle stalled. On the side of the freeway, I went thru the process of problem solving the situation. This is what I had done....

    First and foremost, I checked the distributor and router for moisture. In doing so, I found no moisture. I then checked all the plug wires, and everything was secure and dry. After that, I went ahead and checked to see if I had blown a fuse. In doing so, nothing was blown. I also checked the fabric wire fuses and rearanged the relays next to the fuses. Then I started to think that there was fule pump problem. I went ahead and put some fuel in the carb from a gas can I always keep for safety purposes. I added not too much and not to little. In craking it over, nothing fired. It just turned over. So then I got thinking, maybe my coil was shot. I went ahead and purchased a new one at the auto store and replaced the old one. To all avail, It still woudn't fire up. All it's doing is turning over. In the end, I ended up having to have it towed home.

    So here I am, and I just don't know what to make of it all. When I look back to what I did at the car wash. I didn't open the hood this time to wash down the engine, so I don't know how water could have got anywhere. One thing I did do was spray under the engine and the under carrage. I always do so here in Colorado. Esspecially when the snow and mud collects underneeth.

    If there is anyone out there that can help me troublshoot this problem, It would be soooo greatly appreciated....

    Thanks a bunch.... ;)

    Maddy :confuse:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I agree that it is weird that the engine would quit going down the road, but I think your ignition module probably died and that could be the problem. Either that, or your alternator quit and killed the electrics. You can have the alt checked. You seem to have covered the fuses and fusible links.....I don't have your engine, but the module is in the distributor. Last time I needed one it was about $40 bucks for an aftermarket model. Some parts stores have a tester for the module but I have found that it is easier to replace the module than trust the tester, since module problems can be intermittent. It is easy to replace, and I would carefully inspect the connectors on it too to make sure the wires are all intact. Make sure to use the packet of heat sink material that should be included with the module. Apply it to the base of the module where it seats on the distributor plate. Hope this helps. One guys opinion.
  • matausmataus Posts: 43
    YOU ARE THE MAN!

    The ignitian module (distributor module), was definately the problem! I replaced and she started up like a charm! THANK YOU so much for your help!!!

    Maddy :shades:
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Thanks for posting how your problem was resolved. It helps all of us. As for me, even a blind dog finds a bone once in a while! Glad you were able to fix it!
  • jbdyjbdy Posts: 1
    Hi My son just bought an 2000 Izuzu trooper it runs great, though it needs some parts replaced Timing belt. It has 130miles. It had it's transmission replaced however it is going through a quart of oil every 100 miles My husband thought it was a loose dip stick cause he could not see any evidence of oil dripping from any where, thought it might be the valve gaskets, no sign of engine trouble ,( rough idle , ect it runs real smooth) .
    My husband is hoping it does not need an new engine!
    any notable history about a problem like this?
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