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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Regarding the OEM Bridgestone 684's, I have 46K miles on mine and is it is near time for replacing them. I guess I can go to 50K miles and plan too. The inside/outside edges are more worn than the centers and I have increased tire pressure to 35 lbs. Probably would have more tread on the 684's if I had kept them properly rotated.

    What experiences have you had with the Bridgestone 684's?

    I'm thinking of a highway/offroad tire next such as the BF Goodrich TA - any experiences with that?
  • I have been very happy with my new Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo tires. They are nearly as quiet as the road only tires (hard to tell the difference from Dueler H/Ls, my wife did not notice any more tire noise) and have a better grip on every surface I have run on since I put them on 2500 miles ago in December including wet/dry and snow, but I have not gone off roading with them yet. The Revos are a new tire as of late last summer and they have tread that exposes softer rubber as it wears. I think that helps keep the noise down and the grip good.
    When comparing tires ask the tire store people to give you the shipping weight or tire weight. I use the weight to weigh my decision on how big to go. I like tires larger than stock, but to go from a stock tire 30 to 33 lbs to a nice looking LT265/75R16C at 48 lb. is too big a stretch for me since my Trooper is my daily driver and MPG is extra important to my wife. If I had a different vehicle for commuting I would go to the larger tires.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    For me, this tire worked fine on our 98 Troop with TOD. We see some snow here in SE Mich. I don't think I'm very picky when it comes to tires - I couldn't tell you whether I think the Michelin LTX M/S on our Troop now are any better than the OEM Bridgestones.

    Our 684s were replaced at 52k miles. I could have stretched them to 60k but wanted more tread on the road so we swapped them out.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Posts: 347
    An option I'm considering now, is to get another set of wheels and having larger rubber installed on them for severe offroading.

    They don't have to be factory alloys. A suitable aftermarket set of steel wheels, 15" diameter, and a set of 31" or 33" tyres. M/T's maybe.

    Then I can swap between the standard size for day to day, and put the others on for having fun.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I specifically told the shop mgr at the Honda dealer to replace the idler pulley and timing belt tensioner as part of my 98 Trooper's recent service visit, since they were doing the timing belt and water pump. They didn't end up doing the tensioner or the pulley and I'm wondering how important it is to have these items done. They don't show up in the recommended maintenance guide. I know there are lots of items that are smart maintenance which are not included in a typical owners manual maintenance schedule.

    I forgot to ask why the tensioner wasn't done. I asked about the idler pulley. They originally quoted $25 for the part price and I think labor was nothing additional (plenty of labor for the t-belt and water pump already!). When I picked truck up, shop mgr said the pulley was actually a $130 part (the $25 quote from parts guy was for serpentine belt). Shop mgr said the pulley was metal, not plastic as on some vehicles, and it looked fine and there was no reason to replace it.

    I don't know if that's actually true or if he didn't want to replace it since he would have had to eat the difference in the part cost or try to pass it on to me, which I would have objected to.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I wanted the hoses (not sure if these are the cooling system/radiator hoses) near the t-belt and water pump replaced too, but the shop mgr said they were still in good shape and he didn't recommend replacing them.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Kind of makes you wonder about the shop when they don't do what you tell them to. Then again maybe they were truly looking out for your best interest by saving you a few bucks on things that will last. I guess only time will tell. This sure beats the situation where they sell you stuff you clearly don't need or stuff they don't even install.

    As to what to do now, you might want to remind the service manager again that you ordered a new pulley. Note that you hope he is right about the pulley lasting. Then ask how much of the labor they will eat if the pulley dies before the next scheduled belt change? This might tell you a lot about the shop.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    "Then again maybe they were truly looking out for your best interest by saving you a few bucks on things that will last. I guess only time will tell. This sure beats the situation where they sell you stuff you clearly don't need or stuff they don't even install."

    I agree with that 100%. Can't tell if they were looking out for my best interest, or if they considered this a 'fixed-price' job since I had agreed to the work and was given an estimate, so it saved them $$ to not do the pulley, tensioner, etc. if they could still charge me the original estimate.

    There were a few things I did wrong with this $1,050 work I spent on / invested in my Trooper. First, I approved the work by phone. I didn't have a printed copy of what work would be done and the estimated cost. Stupid, especially since this was a pricey visit. My Excel doc notes from discussions with the shop mgr actually make it look like I might NOT have mentioned the t-belt tensioner; now I can't remember. I definitely did mention it to a different Isuzu dealer that quoted me a price on t-belt/water pump/hoses/tensioner, but don't recall if I mentioned tensioner to Honda dealer that ended up doing the work. That Isuzu dealer quoted $760, by the way - much more than I paid, but I didn't get the tensioner or hoses replaced.

    I didn't spend enough time looking over the paperwork when I picked up the truck, either. I had my 18 month-old daughter there, which made it tougher.

    Plus I didn't make the shop give me back any of the old parts. I thought shops had to do this automatically, unless part was too heavy or had to be sent back to automaker due to hazardous materials or something. Maybe they must return parts to customer, but only if the customer asks? Because of this error, I wasn't able to look at the timing belt to see how much wear it had, if any. That would've been helpful info. Plus, getting old parts back is better proof that the work was actually done.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Most places don't give parts back because they get the new cheaper by returning the old.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Usually you can buyback your parts if you want them. Basically when they quote you a price it is with the core charge backed out. So you'd pay $50 extra if you want your parts.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Sometimes I do receive parts back without asking. Had some pricey work done on a Ford Contour a while back (got rid of the car shortly after - a real maintenance nightmare) and when I got home, I noticed the old shocks in the trunk.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I posted a longer version of this on 4x4wire a few minutes ago...

    Just had timing belt replaced - 98 Trooper, 75k miles. Wanted tensioner replaced too but don't think it was; need to call shop back and find out for sure. Seems like the tensioner can actually wear out quicker than the belt on the 3.2L, and maybe 3.5L, Isuzu engines.

    What would you guys recommend as my next course of action?
  • Update 39,000 Miles

    Trooper running well considering I blundered back in November during a late night rain storm cruise run.

    As I pulled off the main road in an attempt to navigate through a soaked and muddied field, I decided (actually it was my wife who decided) it was more than I wanted to handle. While reversing and trying to back onto the road, I slid into a trench. I was able to reverse myself out in 4 Low but twisted the tail pipe around the rear wheel in the process. The wheel popped but the truck did pull itself out which was pretty impressive all in it's own.

    Fortunetly, the field was directly across from my home so I was able to slowly drive the truck up my driveway where it sat in a nasty rain storm until I was able to access the damage in the morning.

    I had to have it towed. The total job cost me about $600 for a new tail pipe and muffler and some other connectors, doo-dads and what nots.

    I also put on a set of Yokohama Geolandar HT's. I paid $77/ea through "". "" blew everyone's price away.

    Compared to the Duelers, I feel that the Yokohama's give a better ride on the highway and provide more stabililty for turning and overall handling. We had a few snow storms here in Bucks County PA and these tires seem to handle as good as the Duelers. I am very happy with the Geolandar HT's.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm lets see there is SBCooke in Lower Bucks, I'm in NY/NNJ, we need to get all the Trooper owners in the area together!

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Anyone know if these tiny rubber boots can be replaced. This is a rear wheel drive only Rodeo. Boot is leaking grease (the boot is cracked in the middle where the seam is and is a sealed unit, no grease nipple. I have been told the boot cannot be replaced, just let it go and when the tie rod acts up get it replaced with a new one which will have a grease fitting on it.

    Thoughts on this?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I just got a call from my dealer...Rear brakes $190...and $315 for front brakes. For the fronts they have to take the rotors off, repack the bearings, machine the rotors, etc.

    So they want about $500 for the whole job...ugh! He said that if they just replace the pads, I will get pulsing when I brake...what do you guys think?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd do the pads myself. Rear rotors are easy. They should be able to machine the rotors on the vehicle.

    Here's a great website for ordering brakes.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I just had my 30K service done 500 miles ago. I am a little frustrated...I guess I will have to take it somewhere else, unless they will deal on the price.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Not sure if you are looking for comparison quotes, but I'll try to dig up the paperwork from last week's visit. I had new pads installed front & rear, and rotors machined front & rear. Also brake fluid flush (no charge, though they surely overcharged me on the brakes) and front wheel bearing repack. This was the first brake service and wheel bearing repack on our 98 Trooper so far. 75k miles.

    Shop mgr told me they'd machine the rotors while still on the truck. Price for the Isuzu pads wasn't bad, but I think they inflated the labor way beyond what should have been necessary for the job.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Many shops won't install new pads without also machining or replacing rotors. I've had new pads installed and NOT had pulsating right away, but based on all I've heard about this subject, the consensus is it's a good idea to have the rotors machined or replaced, just so you don't wear the pads prematurely due to uneven rotor surface.

    Surprising you need brake work at such an early mileage. What are you doing to your brakes to wear them so quick?

    $500 doesn't seem way out of line for that work. Yes, it's a lot and you could save a bundle by doing yourself, but I'm in no position to do that work myself so I bit the bullet and paid up big.
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