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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • n9pugn9pug Posts: 3
    thanks for the reply, the 4700 ohm resistor makes it think it is about 62 degrees outside, so I dont think I am running it too lean. Also, what about mileage? I am getting about 16mpg combined mileage. I have read where the NEW mileage was 13.8, so am I above average? I would like to try to squeeze 20 mpg out of it, think thats possible? .....greg
  • my trooper is running well and but i have few problems at the moment. at times ReABS indicators pops up, especially after driving and in a major impact/vibration. i thought it is in the Fuse in the front fuse box but very difficult to rule it out. secondly the Engine Oil pressure indicator is not working, but temperature and other relevent indicators are fine.any body can help me in this issue.
  • i had the same issue and did not take care it properrly. i was spraying belt dressings but one day knew it is from water fan. but it was too late. i had to replace water fan,radiator, tentioner,hoses etc. take care.
  • green11green11 Posts: 22
    Thanks for the advice. I was beginning to think my post would not get a response. I am definitely not doing the flush, but will strongly consider your recommendations.
  • i had my starter motor replaced by a mechanic and he took almost 45 min. he took out the exhast manifold and replaced the motor easily. you can do that on the ground.
  • What most people refer to a flush is really a fluid exchange using the transmission to draw / pump new fluid in. There are all sorts of stories that putting new fluid in will remove the varnish holding seals & tranny parts together in a neglected transmission causing a failure. The detergent properties in the new fluid will keep particulates in suspension. Personally, if the fluid smells burnt or is brown from heavy particulate contamination, I would change out the fluid. Continuing to run contaminated fluid will only promote more internal wear. Draining the fluid & pulling the pan for an inspection (including checking the screen) may be prudent then properly filling with ATF before the complete fluid exchange later is another option to insure the system is clean.
  • I have a leak that sounds the same as yours. What year is your Trooper. I have purchased the replacement line but have not had a chance to install as of yet.
  • I had a 1995 Trooper with a tiny power steering leak. The line with the leak is a sharp bend and it is known to fail after 120K miles or so. Expensive little hose to replace.
  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    TOD essentially locks when there is a speed difference sensed between the front driveshaft and rear drive shaft.

    So there could be a sensor issue, or you could have under/over ,between front and rear, inflated tires that cause enough difference to trigger the locking

    I would ensure that the speed sensors are well connected.
  • bock1bock1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 trooper that the engine races at 2000-3000 rpms. I have spent over $1300.00 at Isuzu dealers only to give up! It will race sometimes for the whole day or just a couple of hours. The dealer checked the cables and installed sensors but nothing works. Can anyone help me.
    Thank you.
  • Firstly i live in ireland and 12 months ago bought what i taught was a clean jeep a 1995 trooper no major problems bar a clutch fluid leek.
    3 months ago the turbo blew which is look of the draw all the same cost 1400 dollars fitted.
    The problem im having at the moment has me broke and my mechanic lost. sent the jeep in to get belts fan,alternator etc tightened and a new back box fitted a few other bits and pieces which came to 900 dollars.
    since i took it back it cuts out as you take your foot of the gas and will not idle sometimes it will but eventually dies. duz any one have any advice. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :sick:
  • Is the idle problem only when the diesel engine is warmed up?
  • NO the engine is very hard to start in the mornings is turning over but takes ages to fire the engine will sometimes idle but at some stage rpm just drops and engine dies. so i am pumping the rpm up with the throttle control knob keep in mind this is only an issue since the visit to the macanicks and before this i never had to touch the throttle control and it always started perfect even wen cold
  • dand1dand1 Posts: 1
    I have oil leaking into the spark plugs,all six plugs will be covered with oil.any ideas.
    now blows black smoke and fuel mileage cut in half and the gas has small explosions you can feel and hear
  • The 4wd shifter on my 86 Trooper shed it's 4wd shifter ball pattern decal about 15 years ago, the drivers manual doesn't have a good photo of it, and the sunvisor drawings have faded into oblivion over the years.
    I'd appreciate it if someone would draw the relative positions of NEUTRAL LOW and HIGH ranges for me. I've rarely used 4wd except when I'm in the mud behind the barn, and it pulls pretty good in first gear in whatever range I'm in.
    This thing is no spring chicken anymore - the clutch was last changed in 1994 but the AC works and it's still pretty tight after 275,000 miles. This March, I'm getting a "new" daily driver - an '87 with only 42,000 original miles that has most likely never been in 4wd or even driven across a lawn. My "Big Blue Bus" will have it's top cut off and an awning fitted, and it will live its days out in our horse pastures and fire roads hauling feed and hay and farm wagons. Other folks with little or no experience will be using it, so I'd much rather know for certain that it's in low range.
    Thanks
  • Please all - I need suggestions. Someone close to me idled my 2002 Trooper in a closed garaged for about 3 hours - at best guess.. - assume the worst just please don't don't ask for specifics. Back from the police - here's whats wrong: TOD check light on - feels like 4wd is engaged. Check engine light on, lots of connectors on the left side (exhaust side) melted. I think is the rustproofing on the bottom is fried and just flakes off. The parking brake is stuck on - handle just flops up and down, a friend yanked something underneath and it went off, but pulling it up again got it stuck and flopping again. It has 52000, so its still under the extended warranty. What should I do??? Take it straight to the dealer - they'd tell me it was abused and not cover anything right? All it did was idle and get very very hot - so hot some of the plastic rivets in the fender melted into stringy stuff. Does anyone know what can really be affected by this and how best to get into selling shape? I personally can never drive again - so its a matter of paying off the loan balance - fixing for as cheap as I can - and selling it. Can I fix some stuff so the dealer will check the major stuff under warranty??? I just confused - need help. Any thing would be appreciated.

    skill1234
  • russlarussla Posts: 74
    Sorry to hear about your loss.

    Here's some food for thought.

    I would check on what your comprehensive insurance will cover, so call your auto insurance company, also call the friend's, if they had a policy, to see what they're liability or comp covers.

    I suspect Isuzu will deny any claims, because when it got hot, it wasn't turned off, the trouble lights were essentially ignored so that is abuse from there POV

    The parts that put the parking brake on, have to be metal, so it works in an emergency, but the parts that release it, don't, so since it was so hot that it was melting plastic parts in the enginebay,it could have melted something above the TC too. I also suspect that the heat burnt up a few electric parts, this may also be the cause of the TOD issue, as the sensors could be fried.

    If you get no assistance from insurance, you'll have to start fixing on your own, so...
    Because it got so hot, I would change the TOD fluid, and the tranny fluid too, and it wouldn't hurt to add a cleaner to the oil and change it out.

    Lastly, and this is the probably last thing on your mind, if the worst happened, one might claim against the estate if they really were burdened by the $$ damage to the rig.

    Best Regards
  • jgarsjgars Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Trooper S w/auto trans. The car has 78k miles. In November I took the car to have a 60k mile service done which hadnt been done and the car had 75k miles at the time. They did the job. Last week i had been driving and noticed that the oil light was lit so i took the car to the dealer and they said that the problem was that the car was using more oil than before and that all i needed to do was to check the oil level. Today i was driving and i began to hear a "clunk" noise from the engine or from where i believe the noise is coming from. The noise got worse and luckily i was close to my house. Does anyone know what the problem can be. I feel that the service rep. was full of bs.
  • This may sound ridiculous, but i just got a new motor put in my '01 Trooper by the dealer near me. When i got it back, the dealer told me that for the first 1000 miles i shouldn't drive the car over 60mph. This seemed very weird to me and i was just wondering if this is legit or if i should just consider the guy out of his right mind.
  • That was how the engines were years ago, the "break-in period" (below 55mph and variable speeds not all break-in miles at one engine speed or load) is meant to allow the piston rings and other parts to mesh together and wear down a little so the piston rings seal up as best they can. An improperly broken-in engine long ago, would tend to burn oil through its whole life. I'd follow that restriction and look up more about break in procedures on line and send an email to Isuzu to ask if this applies to your engine. I think most newer engines get some break-in hours in the factory. Johnson outboard motors use a different piston and cylinder technology that have very tight tolerances and they sell not needing a break-in period as an advantage over otehr engine makers.
    ..
    1000 miles will go by very quickly, I drove over 2000 just last week.
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