Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

11415171920163

Comments

  • The trick on any extended warranty is to read the fine print over and over until you've committed it to memory. Most require that all service be performed on time and that you keep detailed records. Some require oil changes more frequently than the manufacturer suggests. You have to ask yourself if you're the kind of person that will a)get all of the service done, and b)keep all of the records. If you need and engine at 119K miles and can't produce every oil change receipt over the life of the truck, they will likely deny the claim.

    Some of the warranties are outrageously expensive, too. Especially if you finance the cost of the warranty in with the vehicle, figure what it really costs you over the life of the loan. If you set aside that much money each month you would probably have saved enough to cover many repairs. Then if nothing breaks, you've got the cash in the bank.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I looked more carefully at normal starting just for reference. Its goes to 1500 rpm on starting cold and settles down to 1000 rpm in the 1st 30 seconds. It actually sounds like it is reved higher than it actually is and there is no fluctuation to speak of.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I don't think I'd buy it in your situation. You already have powertrain coverage for 10 years / 120,000 miles, and bumper-to-bumper coverage for 5 years / 60,000 miles. The only additional coverage you're getting from this dealer's warranty is 5 years / 60k miles of coverage (for years 6-10, and miles 60,001-120,000) on things other than the powertrain (which is already factory-covered).

    Unless this warranty is somewhere in the $500 neighborhood, my opinion is it's not worth it. And as Troopernewbie said, you need to be damn sure that you're the type of person who will have the maintenance performed and keep the service records. Otherwise your warranty may be worthless.

    Consider also the deductible. How much? Per visit or per problem? Etc.
  • My observation on '99 Passport:

    Warm engine - starts at normal idle, 700 rpm
    Cold engine (40-60 F?) - starts at 1500 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.
    Very cold (below 40 F) - starts at 2000 rpm, then slowly goes down to normal idle as it warms.

    Sometime I even step the gas and maintain 2000 rpm to speed up the warm up.

    Sometimes, the warm engine takes longer cranking before it starts and then sputters and fluctuates engine speed before settling to normal idle. It helped when I start the engine immediately after the beeping sound ends. I experianced a lot of hards starts when I tried it BEFORE or LONG AFTER the beeping sound ends
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    What beeping? Yes, I've noticed on the trooper that the start when warm takes just slightly extra cranking time. I often let off on it thinking it was going to start (like cold) and have to crank it again.
  • Curtis, would be very interested in your experiences with Jack Miller. EMail me at wailuabob@aol.com
  • I learned the hard way to remember to LEAVE my Trooper in 4wd during the winter months, except for long highway drives. I was doing a 3 point turn in my own driveway and got stuck. I had made the same turn 50 times before. But this time the 4wd was off. Once stuck I could not get the 4wd to engage as I had abolutely no forward or rear motion. I dug myself out and learned a lesson. I only had to dig out enough to get the truck to move a little bit and then the TOD took over. But nothing would happen, except the spinning of the rear wheels until I got some forwrad motion.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Is there any reason to use an Isuzu brand air filter in my 1998 Trooper instead of a filter from a different company? In the past I’ve always used Isuzu air filters on my 2 Troopers but lately I’m beginning to wonder if they are worth the extra money. St. Charles Isuzu’s price, which represents 15% off manufacturer list, is about 24 bucks. Recently I noticed that the standard Fram filter is 17 bucks. Murray’s has all Fram filters 10% off right now, so the cost would be $15.30.

    Any thoughts on whether the Isuzu filter is worth almost 9 bucks more than the Fram? Does the Isuzu filter do a better job of filtering? Does it last longer? How good or bad is the Fram filter? Are there other filters anybody would recommend? I’m not really interested in a K&N filter.

    It has crossed my mind that Isuzu probably does not make its own filters but rather has a supplier for them. Anybody have any info on which company makes the Isuzu air filters? I'm sure the "Isuzu" name adds a few bucks compared with the supplier's own branded, identical filter.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Interestingly enough, on other makes of cars, using oil analysis I have found that aftermarket oil filters actually do a bettter job then OEM, specifically the Mobil1, Pure One and Amsoil oil filters. On air though, the OEM filters seem to do a better job of filtering then the Frams and Purolators. Fram is garbage for all filters basically!!!!! Just purchased a used Rodeo with 58,000 miles so I have not had time to experiment with this issue as yet on Isuzu. The OEM air filters seem better constructed with the body and number of pleats.
    What's $6 every 30,000 miles!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    For my Trooper I've always Isuzu brand oil filters, because of the recommendations of Jake, the expert Isuzu mechanic on www.itog.com. I change the Trooper's oil every 3000-3500 miles with synthetic blend, so I don't think I would really benefit from a more expensive and potentially better filter, would I?

    In my 95 Contour I initially got 2 free Mobil1 oil filters. I don't plan to keep using those @ $10 apiece. I've heard from contour.org folks that the Motorcraft filter is actually pretty good for the Contour's V6. I may switch to Purolator Pure One as a middle ground.

    I've heard that Fram oil filters are crap but hadn't heard much about their air filters. I guess I'll probably stick with the Isuzu air filter.

    armtdm, I think I might ask you and others on the synthetic oil forum why people seem to think synthetic blend is worse than dino OR synthetic oil.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    Your cold start idle sounds normal to me. The surging when the IM gasket was bad was severe - from almost killing to 1000 rpm once every second or two.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Yes, I think that's normal on the cold start rpm and that is why I thought I'd post it.

    In terms of air filters, I had mine changed with the oil at valvoline--didn't even check the brand but I looked at the two side by side and the number of pleats etc looked the same. Guess maybe I should be more picky but I haven't had a problem before.

    I went with a Valvoline blend (not pure synthetic). I asked about mixing and/or changing over on here before. Most people thought that was not a problem, and that changing to synthetic was no problem on an engine with low miles. First time I've ever gone with a synthetic in any vehicle. I hope it wasn't a bad choice. Interesting someone might think a blend is not good. I'd like to hear why. It is supposed to help on fuel economy and high temp performance. We'll see how it does in terms of the burning a quart in 3000 miles. If pure Valvoline synthetic is even better I might go with that but it seemed a bit pricey if you change every 3000 miles.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    The owners manual does say to use an oil that indicates fuel saving, which the blend oil (at least for valvoline) does indicate. Other than that not a lot in the manual.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    but I change it every 5K miles. I have considered extending to 7.5K with an additional filter change midway inbetween, but decided 5K is fine. Parts/supplies for an oil change even with Mobil One is under $20, divided over 5K miles is less than 4 tenths of a cent per mile. Pretty cheap.

    And, since tonight it is supposed to get down to -13F, the cold flow capabilities of synthetic can drastically reduce cold start wear...
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Off the shelf blends do not state what percentage of the blend is synthetic. Some are as low as 10% synthetic which to me is misleading advertising. Thus, not recommended. You can make your own blend by mixing 50-50 synthetic with normal dino oil if you wish. I am biased, I have used 100% synthetic for past 9 years on every car I own, currenlty 5 and it is in the engines, transmissions and gear oils. My change intervals are:
    2 cars with 8,000-12,000 miles/year filter at 6 months oil once a year
    1 car 20,000 miles./year, filter at 6,000 oil change at 12,000 miles (total current mileage 61,000
    1 car 15,000 miles/year change oil and filter at 7,500, current mileage 131,000
    1 car a twin turbo oil and filter at 5,000 miles
    Oil (trend) analyis on all at least once a year, no problems noted.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I noticed today that it jumped briefly to 1500 rpm twice and then it settled in at ~1000 rpm.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    I've recently purchased a 97' Trooper Limited with 51,000 miles on it. I made a 850 mile trip home in it, all the while, having to listen to an annoying whine (hum mm) coming from the rear of the vehicle. I didn't notice the whine until I got to about 60 mph. At that speed it overcomes any tire / highway noise and it just gets worse as you increase speed to about 75 mph. The only time the (hmmm) went away, was when on a downhill grade with basically no load on the drive train. When I got home I immediately crawled under the car to feel of the rear axle and differentials temperature. The outside air was about 32 I and the metal was quite warm to the touch, but not to hot to keep your hand on it. One other thing I've noticed, when getting between 75 and 80 mph a loud vibration coming from the rear of the vehicle. It remain until reaching about 85 mph and then it smooths out again. I thought this might be coming from the roof built-in rear window air deflector!?? Anyone else experienced this? This is very disappointing after paying what I did for the car. I've checked the level of gear oil in the differential and it was up to the fill hole (normal) and looked normal in color and texture. I did notice when removing the fill plug, a hissing sound like air escaping around the threads of the plug as I removed it. This surprised me a bit. I also own a 1988 Trooper which now has 120,000+ miles on it, and it has never had a noise (hmmm) like this. Is anyone else out there experiencing this kind of problem with their ewer Troopers?? Anyone got any ideas on a cheap fix? Has ISUZU issued any notices pertaining to this?? This is a beautiful car otherwise and I hate to get off on the wrong foot with it.
    By the way, I've been reading all the posts about lubrication and the best oil I've found is Purple Royal. Check out Royal Purple . om
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    While I'm at it I'll ask one more question. My 88' Trooper has been consuming about 1 pint of antifreeze mix a week. I've had it to the repair shop a couple times. They've either said they can find no problem or have no idea what could be happening. The last shop that had it, said it was the freeze plug, which they replaced. But, it still consumes coolant. Anyone got any ideas about this one?? The head gasket was replaced about 1 year ago if that might have anything to do with it.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Could this be tire noise? Those are high speeds if the tires aren't up to the task. What tires are on it at 51,0000 miles?
  • I have a 96 with the 3.2 engine. Never has rear end whine, but since day one there has been a middle drive train vibration starting exactly at 76 MPH and ending in the mid 80s. This was hard to duplicate at the dealer, but on a lift they did hear it. The transfer case shift knob really vibrates when it does this, proving that it is drive train. I gave up on fixing it and after 65K miles, everything still runs fine, and I ignore the vibration. 65K miles trouble-free do not mean my decision to ignore it is correct.

    The dealer said that some 95s and 96s had drive train vibration between 45 and 50 mph and that certain gears or bearings would be replaced in the transfer case if the customer complained. (Isuzu issued a service bulletin.) Of course, my car didn't vibrate at those speeds.

    Opposite of your problem: My wife's 89 4cyl trooper has had a rear-end whine since about 70K miles and is at 170K today.
Sign In or Register to comment.