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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I rarely double-post but wanted quick feedback since truck is unexpectedly at the dealer today. Was hoping for feedback before the dealer calls me back with his price quotes.

    Do you think these types of posts belong in the Isuzu Maint & Repair or the Isuzu Trooper topic? That's the other reason I double-posted - wasn't sure what the best place is.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    If you are somewhat handy, you should be able to do the serpentine belt. See my post #2172 - the one in which I admitted leaving the screwdriver in the engine bay. That, plus my gaffe of putting AFT in the rear differential last year, qualifies me as somewhat of a sloppy worker. Obviously, I knew better in both cases but somehow made the mistakes anyway. At this point it's not clear whether my wife will allow me to touch our vehicles with tools any more. It probably depends on how much damage was caused by the screwdriver.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I had the Bilstien oil flush done once on my 1995 Trooper 3.2L SOHC. I was hoping to eliminate the lifter ticking. The ticking went away a day or two later, turns out that the lifter ticking can only be cleaned out by driving with clean oil.
    ..
    The oil flush did no harm to my Trooper.
    ..
    The oil flush machine replaces the filter with a big machine which super cleans the oil while the engine is running.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    So what did you think of the procedure you had done on your '95? Worthless? Potentially harmful?

    I just okayed the dealer to do this quick flush. They also are cleaning the EGR system. I asked for an explanation again about the quick flush. Here's what I got - it's a "2-can" system made by B&G. Amounts to something like 2 oil changes in a row. Some additives are pumped through during/after the first oil batch. This is roughly similar to an auto trans power flush in that the procedure gets all the oil out, including the crap on the bottom of the pan.

    I'm hoping this helps the consumption and does not introduce any problems. I'd prefer to do the cleaning myself by using well-regarded additives and doing my own oil changes after 500 miles or so, but I value my marriage too much to even mention this to my wife. So I'll bite the bullet on this overpriced dealer service and hopefully it helps. Advisor says they've had several folks complaining about oil consumption and this has worked well for them in the past.

    Labor on this quick flush and EGR stuff is 2 hours total, @ $76/hr. Not sure of parts cost, but I'm probably looking at $200 total, maybe a bit more.

    Dealer saw no damage done by the screwdriver, except it chewed up the serpentine belt which already needed replacement anyway. Dealer charge is $32 for the part and 1/2 hour labor, so 70 bucks total. This isn't something I'm comfortable trying, especially now, so I okayed them to do it.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Don't be too hard on yourself. We all make mistakes and you are anything but the first person to leave a tool under the hood. In fact shop personnel have done that with some farily expensive tools I might add. I suspect you do just fine when you plan a little more and go a little slower when doing the work. Also, knowing what job to DIY and what ones to leave to the pros can also make a world of difference. For example, paying for the flush/cleaning was a wise move no matter what. Be sure to let us know how much this helps your oil usage.

    As to where to post, granted at first it is more a help something is wrong situation. However, this quickly turns into a maintenance and repair saga so that is where I would post it. But like I noted that is just my opinion.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Some of the dealer's numbers seem really high. So far, I okayed only the quick flush & EGR cleaning (probably a huge ripoff at $200 or so) and the serpentine belt replacement (70 bucks - a rip, I'm sure, but anything less than 100 bucks doesn't bother me too much).

    Replace timing belt, water pump, hoses (which ones? are these the radiator hoses?), and tensioner: $740. Not sure of the labor vs. parts breakdown.

    P/S fluid flush, brake flush, new spark plugs, engine quick flush, oil change, clean EGR tube: $643 total-- $176 is parts, the rest (about 6 hours) labor. Seems pretty ridiculous for a bunch of little things that should be pretty cheap. I asked for more of a breakdown:

    P/S fluid flush $17 parts, 1 hour labor @$76/hr = $93. Ridiculous! Probably $40-50 at a quick lube, right?

    Brake flush - $93, same as P/S flush. Ridiculous.

    Plugs - $81 just for the parts. That's over $15 per plug - ridiculous. This one I might try myself. Working backwards, dealer must be charging 2 hours labor for this which also seems ludicrous.

    Quick flush and EGR tube cleaning - 2 hours labor. Not sure on parts.

    Any thoughts? I'd prefer to have a dealer do this work, but at this point I can't justify letting them do hardly any of it because the prices sound astronomical.

    I asked again for a quote on the brake flush + brake pads + wheel bearing repack, which should save on labor if doing all 3 together. Still waiting to hear back on that.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    That makes me feel a bit better. I did acquire a small Snap-On ratchet a few years back that a mechanic left in a vehicle during dealer service work. I called back but my salesman (college buddy) told me to just keep it. Haven't used it, but still have it. That ratchet was left on the floor, though - not as dangerous as the engine compartment.

    The confusing thing is I wasn't in a hurry and thought I was taking my time. I doublechecked both the new PCV valve and the coil pack for proper fit before closing the hood, but by that time I had forgotten all about the screwdriver. I was more worried about doing something wrong w/the PCV or coil pack.

    I do feel that I know my limits, and I try to do only the things that are really easy. It's too bad I don't have an old beater vehicle to learn on.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    That's right, I had forgotten the unbelievable price that even St. Charles Isuzu wanted for plugs, over $12 each IIRC. I put in $2 Autolite Platinums and they have been just fine. Saved $60!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    sdc2, what plugs - brand and style - are the ones that dealers sell? I forgot to ask the advisor today.

    The service advisor at a local dealer told me today they recommend anything but Champions. He was asking the technician while I was on the phone and I thought the tech also said something like 'we do not recommend double platinum plugs.' Seems I've heard similar double-platinum advice (i.e., stay away from 'em) from a few Town Hall folks too.

    When changing the plugs, is there anything else to change as part of this procedure? Do the coil packs or wires have a recommended maintenance interval? I don't recall seeing one in my '98 Trooper owners manual. Is replacing the coil packs/wires/etc. unnecessary, or smart proactive maintenance?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    At one time or another I think all of us who DIY have left a tool in the engine compartment, or maybe the fill cap on the battery...I have learned to doublecheck before closing the hood.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I don't remember what the dealer was selling, that was a year or so ago.

    Speaking of Champions, that's funny - I was quite surprised upon removal to find that the original plugs in my engine were Champions. I have a motorhead buddy who is down on Champions too, for some reason. That's why I put Autolites in. They were not "double platinum" though. That isn't really needed unless you are going to go a long time between plug changes. I plan to replace mine every 30K, it is so easy and cheap to do.

    I don't think there is a recommended change interval for the coil packs, they have no moving parts and so are not a "wear" item.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I am very happy with the Champion plugs specified in the owner's manual. That is what my 99 came with and the old ones looked just excellent when I swapped them out. My internet research was also favorable for the Pt Champions. The Denso listing are upwards of $10/each IIRC and hard to find except at the dealers.

    You dealer flushing prices do sound way too high IMO.

    As to doing the plugs, try the search feature as I thought someone already did a good writeup for that. FWIW, in summary here is my approach- unhook the battery, unclip the coil wire, unscrew the coil pack, gently but firmly pull off the pack, unscrew the plug using a long socket extension (use 2 smaller extensions fed on one at a time for the one close to the firewall on the driver's side), gap the new plug, apply very little if any anti-sieze (the plugs come pre-lubed, at least the Champions do) and some dielectric grease, CAREFULLY install the new plug DO NOT CROSSTHREAD, re-install the coil, screw down and clip back in. Repeat for each cylinder. Hook up the battery. HTH and I didn't forget anything.

    Thanks for the part number reference on the PCV valve by the way.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Really appreciate yours and others' feedback. Before I get anywhere near the spark plugs, I'll do some online searches, compile all the advice on how to do the job, and resolve any discrepancies. It does seem pretty straightforward, and 5 of the 6 plugs are extremely easy to get at. Still, I need to be careful!

    Dealer called late today and said front brake pads still have a good 10-15k miles left on them. Said rear brakes are in need of new pads. Since the brakes aren't pulsating during use, dealer said the rotors didn't need replacement and also said they are too thin to be turned/machined.

    Dealer quoted $142 to replace the rear pads! They won't get the work at that price. Dealer also recommended non-Isuzu rotors - said the Isuzu rotors run appx $200 each (not a pair, EACH!) and he could get aftermarket ones for half that. $100 apiece still sounds a bit pricey, but somewhere in reality.

    I'd love to be able to justify having the dealer do the bulk of the maintenance work on my truck, but the prices are just way too high. Looks like I'll probably use a shop nearer my house. It's a Honda dealership and they also have a non-Honda service business that they've advertised quite a bit the past year. I visited once last year and was impressed with the folks I talked with, the very reasonable prices, and the couple freebies they gave me (brake inspection and one other thing I forget) even though we didn't discuss that. Plus they give a free king size candy bar with every visit :)
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I had mine done once for the lifter ticking issue. It did not help much if at all since my oil was decently clean going in. If I had a really dirty neglected engine I think the flush would get a lot of muck out that an oil change would miss. Then I would put in new oil drive 100 miles and see if it was black dirty again, if it was black I might even flush again, or at least keep swapping oil and filter as soon as it becomes black. Eventually, if the engine is healthy the oil should stay clean, at least not get all the way to black between oil changes.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    All the talk about PCVs got me to check the one on my 99 Trooper. It was clean looking but a little sticky when I pulled it out. I sprayed it with carb cleaner to free it up.

    I found the hardest part of the job was getting the black plastic manifold cover back on. It pressure fits in 4 places using notched rubber bushings. The problem being that if you leave the bushings on the posts on the engine, the cover wants to catch the notches in the bushings rather than easily sliding over them. The simple cure was to pull the bushings from the posts on the engine and insert them into the cover. Then tap the cover with the now installed bushings on the bushing posts. Just a heads up suggestion for others getting ready to do this job.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Your description makes me think the location/design of the PCV valve and surrounding parts is different on the 98 and 99 Troopers. Our Troop is at the dealer now so I can't doublecheck it, but what I remember is this:

    PCV valve is connected on 1 end to a rubber black hose, maybe 1/2-3/4" diameter, and on the other end it sticks into some metal part of the engine (no idea what). The hose is kept tight on the PCV by a metal band with 2 plastic tabs that you push on to loosen the band when removing the PCV from this hose.

    The removal of old PCV and install of new PCV took ME like 3 minutes. Your description sounds a little more involved. Not sure why Isuzu would have changed the design on the 99 Troop. Or maybe I'm just not understanding your explanation very well.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I think we have exactly the same setup. In fact I used your description to find my PCV valve. What I tried to describe above was my experience with the black plastic manifold cover piece (the thing that says Isuzu and 24 valve). I made no mention in the above about my PCV valve location as that part was a piece of cake and exactly where you said it would be.

    Are you sure you got your plastic cover piece on correctly? I know I couldn't get mine to easily and properly reset without resorting to the above.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks for clearing that up. Yes, what you described sounds like the same type of cover on my '98. I'm pretty sure I was able to get all 4 points secured between cover and posts, but I did have a bit of trouble getting all 4 to 'seat.' Next time I remove the cover I'll try your suggestion.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    There appears to be very little info on this forum about valve clearance checks and adjustments for 1998 and newer Troopers (those having 3.5L V6). My 1998 Troop owners manual says that valve clearance should be checked and, if necessary, adjusted at 60k miles. I haven't done this yet. My Troop is at 75k miles.

    Has anybody had this done? I'm planning to have a bunch of maintenance taken care of this week at a shop that's not an Isuzu dealer. Any idea how involved and expensive a valve clearance check is? How about a valve adjustment?

    Could out-of-spec valve clearance be a cause for increased rate of oil consumption?
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    You're right about very little being written on this topic. This is all I remember - /direct/view/.ee9513b/5092


    Let us know what prices you find. Given the design and likely price for a shim kit I doubt it will be cheap even for an independent shop. It also seems like a job that is easy to do wrong or at least requires a lot of attention to detail to do right.

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    breakor, thanks for the link. I read those posts last night but should bookmark them for easier reference.

    I do worry about the job requiring considerable skill and being easy to screw up.

    I spoke with the shop manager while dropping the car off. It was encouraging that he seemed to know the basics of a valve clearance/adjustment. He didn't mention the word 'shim' but seemed to know what he was talking about - though it's hard for me to tell due to my very limited understanding of modern combustion engines. He said the adjustment is basically the same thing as the check - you do all the same stuff and either need to adjust 'it' when you're in there or you don't.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I got responses to a similar question on 4x4wire from 3 people. All 3 said if the engine is not making noticeable tapping sound from the valves, don't have the valves checked/adjusted especially on a vehicle with relatively low (75k) miles. They said more harm than good could be done, since it's a fairly tricky procedure as breakor explained earlier. The consensus was 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it.'

    Based on all the feedback, I'm leaning toward not having the valve clearance checked since I don't really notice any unusual noises from the engine. Occasionally I do hear some spark knock/pinging but I don't think it's valve tapping. The engine oil has always been changed at fairly short intervals so I think the engine should be in good shape.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Another guy on 4x4wire explained why the valve procedure IS important on the 3.5L engine. He seemed to know exactly what he was talking about.

    Now I'm quite conflicted - if I have the shop do the job at $300, will they do it right? Will they do more harm than good? Is it an important maintenance item or an unnecessary expense? If I don't have the job done, am I better off since I'm not risking the shop doing the job wrong?

    I know a real 'valve job' can be extremely expensive, and I don't want to run the risk of needing that procedure due to neglected maintenance. I'm leaning toward having the shop do the valve work.

    What exactly is done on this valve adjustment?
    * A couple guys who seem knowledgeable say it's adding a shim to make up for the lost clearance. These guys are saying it's not necessary if I'm not hearing valve ticking.
    * The most recent guy said "there is a disk that rides between the cam and the bucket that is used to adjust the valve lash." This is the guy who thinks the valve clearance check/adjust is important.

    * I asked the shop mgr how this adjustment is done - is a shim added or something. He said no, that there's an adjusting screw and the tech simply adjusts the screw [tightens/loosens it?] to achieve the desired clearance. He said some other stuff but I didn't totally follow it.

    I'm having trouble reconciling the different opinions about how this job is done - it seems there is some conflicting information.

    Any more feedback?
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    I'm probably just going to add to the confusion here. So apologies in advance.

    My understanding is that in the case of the 3.5 V6, this is done by adding shims (discs). The reason that it is important is that the shims do wear out and eventually end up being pitted. The pitting on the shims, if allowed to progress, will eventually lead to accelerated wear on the cam lobes.

    Replacing the camshafts is going to be way more expensive than doing the valve adjustment. Once you hear the ticking, the damage may have already been done to the cam lobes.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks for chiming in. Your comment that a new shim (disc) needs to be added in place of the old concurs with one of the guys on 4x4wire.com who responded to my post there. I also received a fax from pinoy99, an occasional poster here, with the relevant 2 pages from the 98 Troop factory workshop manual. Trouble is, some of the diagrams seem to conflict with what the guy on 4x4wire is saying and I'm trying to make sure the faxed info is correct before I show it to the shop.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Go with the shop manual. At least I would if you are talking about a Helms manual.
  • rikkishirikkishi Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 1999 Trooper a year and a half ago with 30K miles on it and love it. Is it a good idea to have the 45K checkup since I haven't had anyone check out the vehicle (I bought it from a dodge dealership)? Also, here's a separate question: Sometimes while driving in the rain the trooper slides while braking (not hydroplaning)in wet conditions but not all the time. Should I have my brakes checked or tires? The tires are fairly new and the treads are still good. Can anyone help?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    The 99 certainly has antilock brakes, so it shouldn't slide at all. Your antilock must be out. Usually the brake light will go on if this is the case, though.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Of course with antilock brakes you should press harder not pump in a slippery situation. You can definitely feel them work if you are pressing the brakes and the truck starts to slide. They may need some repair?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you have bad tires you can lock the wheels at slow speeds. ABS does not engage <5mph IIRC.

    -mike
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Regarding the OEM Bridgestone 684's, I have 46K miles on mine and is it is near time for replacing them. I guess I can go to 50K miles and plan too. The inside/outside edges are more worn than the centers and I have increased tire pressure to 35 lbs. Probably would have more tread on the 684's if I had kept them properly rotated.

    What experiences have you had with the Bridgestone 684's?

    I'm thinking of a highway/offroad tire next such as the BF Goodrich TA - any experiences with that?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    I have been very happy with my new Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo tires. They are nearly as quiet as the road only tires (hard to tell the difference from Dueler H/Ls, my wife did not notice any more tire noise) and have a better grip on every surface I have run on since I put them on 2500 miles ago in December including wet/dry and snow, but I have not gone off roading with them yet. The Revos are a new tire as of late last summer and they have tread that exposes softer rubber as it wears. I think that helps keep the noise down and the grip good.
    ..
    When comparing tires ask the tire store people to give you the shipping weight or tire weight. I use the weight to weigh my decision on how big to go. I like tires larger than stock, but to go from a stock tire 30 to 33 lbs to a nice looking LT265/75R16C at 48 lb. is too big a stretch for me since my Trooper is my daily driver and MPG is extra important to my wife. If I had a different vehicle for commuting I would go to the larger tires.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    For me, this tire worked fine on our 98 Troop with TOD. We see some snow here in SE Mich. I don't think I'm very picky when it comes to tires - I couldn't tell you whether I think the Michelin LTX M/S on our Troop now are any better than the OEM Bridgestones.

    Our 684s were replaced at 52k miles. I could have stretched them to 60k but wanted more tread on the road so we swapped them out.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    An option I'm considering now, is to get another set of wheels and having larger rubber installed on them for severe offroading.

    They don't have to be factory alloys. A suitable aftermarket set of steel wheels, 15" diameter, and a set of 31" or 33" tyres. M/T's maybe.

    Then I can swap between the standard size for day to day, and put the others on for having fun.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I specifically told the shop mgr at the Honda dealer to replace the idler pulley and timing belt tensioner as part of my 98 Trooper's recent service visit, since they were doing the timing belt and water pump. They didn't end up doing the tensioner or the pulley and I'm wondering how important it is to have these items done. They don't show up in the recommended maintenance guide. I know there are lots of items that are smart maintenance which are not included in a typical owners manual maintenance schedule.

    I forgot to ask why the tensioner wasn't done. I asked about the idler pulley. They originally quoted $25 for the part price and I think labor was nothing additional (plenty of labor for the t-belt and water pump already!). When I picked truck up, shop mgr said the pulley was actually a $130 part (the $25 quote from parts guy was for serpentine belt). Shop mgr said the pulley was metal, not plastic as on some vehicles, and it looked fine and there was no reason to replace it.

    I don't know if that's actually true or if he didn't want to replace it since he would have had to eat the difference in the part cost or try to pass it on to me, which I would have objected to.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I wanted the hoses (not sure if these are the cooling system/radiator hoses) near the t-belt and water pump replaced too, but the shop mgr said they were still in good shape and he didn't recommend replacing them.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Kind of makes you wonder about the shop when they don't do what you tell them to. Then again maybe they were truly looking out for your best interest by saving you a few bucks on things that will last. I guess only time will tell. This sure beats the situation where they sell you stuff you clearly don't need or stuff they don't even install.

    As to what to do now, you might want to remind the service manager again that you ordered a new pulley. Note that you hope he is right about the pulley lasting. Then ask how much of the labor they will eat if the pulley dies before the next scheduled belt change? This might tell you a lot about the shop.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    "Then again maybe they were truly looking out for your best interest by saving you a few bucks on things that will last. I guess only time will tell. This sure beats the situation where they sell you stuff you clearly don't need or stuff they don't even install."

    I agree with that 100%. Can't tell if they were looking out for my best interest, or if they considered this a 'fixed-price' job since I had agreed to the work and was given an estimate, so it saved them $$ to not do the pulley, tensioner, etc. if they could still charge me the original estimate.

    There were a few things I did wrong with this $1,050 work I spent on / invested in my Trooper. First, I approved the work by phone. I didn't have a printed copy of what work would be done and the estimated cost. Stupid, especially since this was a pricey visit. My Excel doc notes from discussions with the shop mgr actually make it look like I might NOT have mentioned the t-belt tensioner; now I can't remember. I definitely did mention it to a different Isuzu dealer that quoted me a price on t-belt/water pump/hoses/tensioner, but don't recall if I mentioned tensioner to Honda dealer that ended up doing the work. That Isuzu dealer quoted $760, by the way - much more than I paid, but I didn't get the tensioner or hoses replaced.

    I didn't spend enough time looking over the paperwork when I picked up the truck, either. I had my 18 month-old daughter there, which made it tougher.

    Plus I didn't make the shop give me back any of the old parts. I thought shops had to do this automatically, unless part was too heavy or had to be sent back to automaker due to hazardous materials or something. Maybe they must return parts to customer, but only if the customer asks? Because of this error, I wasn't able to look at the timing belt to see how much wear it had, if any. That would've been helpful info. Plus, getting old parts back is better proof that the work was actually done.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Most places don't give parts back because they get the new cheaper by returning the old.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Usually you can buyback your parts if you want them. Basically when they quote you a price it is with the core charge backed out. So you'd pay $50 extra if you want your parts.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Sometimes I do receive parts back without asking. Had some pricey work done on a Ford Contour a while back (got rid of the car shortly after - a real maintenance nightmare) and when I got home, I noticed the old shocks in the trunk.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I posted a longer version of this on 4x4wire a few minutes ago...

    Just had timing belt replaced - 98 Trooper, 75k miles. Wanted tensioner replaced too but don't think it was; need to call shop back and find out for sure. Seems like the tensioner can actually wear out quicker than the belt on the 3.2L, and maybe 3.5L, Isuzu engines.

    What would you guys recommend as my next course of action?
  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Update 39,000 Miles

    Trooper running well considering I blundered back in November during a late night rain storm cruise run.

    As I pulled off the main road in an attempt to navigate through a soaked and muddied field, I decided (actually it was my wife who decided) it was more than I wanted to handle. While reversing and trying to back onto the road, I slid into a trench. I was able to reverse myself out in 4 Low but twisted the tail pipe around the rear wheel in the process. The wheel popped but the truck did pull itself out which was pretty impressive all in it's own.

    Fortunetly, the field was directly across from my home so I was able to slowly drive the truck up my driveway where it sat in a nasty rain storm until I was able to access the damage in the morning.

    I had to have it towed. The total job cost me about $600 for a new tail pipe and muffler and some other connectors, doo-dads and what nots.

    I also put on a set of Yokohama Geolandar HT's. I paid $77/ea through "tirerack.com". "tirerack.com" blew everyone's price away.

    Compared to the Duelers, I feel that the Yokohama's give a better ride on the highway and provide more stabililty for turning and overall handling. We had a few snow storms here in Bucks County PA and these tires seem to handle as good as the Duelers. I am very happy with the Geolandar HT's.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hmm lets see there is SBCooke in Lower Bucks, I'm in NY/NNJ, we need to get all the Trooper owners in the area together!

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Anyone know if these tiny rubber boots can be replaced. This is a rear wheel drive only Rodeo. Boot is leaking grease (the boot is cracked in the middle where the seam is and is a sealed unit, no grease nipple. I have been told the boot cannot be replaced, just let it go and when the tie rod acts up get it replaced with a new one which will have a grease fitting on it.

    Thoughts on this?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I just got a call from my dealer...Rear brakes $190...and $315 for front brakes. For the fronts they have to take the rotors off, repack the bearings, machine the rotors, etc.

    So they want about $500 for the whole job...ugh! He said that if they just replace the pads, I will get pulsing when I brake...what do you guys think?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd do the pads myself. Rear rotors are easy. They should be able to machine the rotors on the vehicle.

    Here's a great website for ordering brakes.
    http://www.brakewarehouse.com/newddtfdb22.asp

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I just had my 30K service done 500 miles ago. I am a little frustrated...I guess I will have to take it somewhere else, unless they will deal on the price.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Not sure if you are looking for comparison quotes, but I'll try to dig up the paperwork from last week's visit. I had new pads installed front & rear, and rotors machined front & rear. Also brake fluid flush (no charge, though they surely overcharged me on the brakes) and front wheel bearing repack. This was the first brake service and wheel bearing repack on our 98 Trooper so far. 75k miles.

    Shop mgr told me they'd machine the rotors while still on the truck. Price for the Isuzu pads wasn't bad, but I think they inflated the labor way beyond what should have been necessary for the job.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Many shops won't install new pads without also machining or replacing rotors. I've had new pads installed and NOT had pulsating right away, but based on all I've heard about this subject, the consensus is it's a good idea to have the rotors machined or replaced, just so you don't wear the pads prematurely due to uneven rotor surface.

    Surprising you need brake work at such an early mileage. What are you doing to your brakes to wear them so quick?

    $500 doesn't seem way out of line for that work. Yes, it's a lot and you could save a bundle by doing yourself, but I'm in no position to do that work myself so I bit the bullet and paid up big.
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