Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

boxtrooper

What year is your Rodeo? How many miles on it so far? Have you ever noticed an oil use problem before?

bluedevils

Sorry about the engine seizing, but this is another good illustration of the importance of checking the oil level. You just can't leave oil in for 5,000 miles without checking the level. Granted, a quart every 1,000 miles really is way too much regardless of whether a manufacturer says it is normal/acceptable. But the responsibility lies with the owner to check the level, not with the manufacturer whose engine used the oil.

I have become rather obsessive with checking the level in our 98 Trooper (3.5L), and my wife thinks I'm nuts. But I would rather check too often than not often enough.

We had a 96 Trooper (3.2L) and it consumed a fair amount of oil. I don't remember off-hand, but believe it was quite a bit more than 1 qt/3000 miles. My impression was that the 92-97 Troopers (3.2L V6) did have oil consumption 'issues' in addition to the ticking/valve lifter/etc. problems.

drmp

Can anybody post the link? My '99 Passport is out of warranty and Honda wants 700 bucks for labor fee for the $30 gaskets! I called Isuzu and they're asking 400 bucks. I am willing to shell $150 for the job. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in the NY/NJ area? I think that with the TSB at hand, a licensed mechanic will have no problem doing it even if it is his first time on Isuzu engine. Thanks.

breakor

You could try searching the alldata.com site.

However isn't the TSB (assuming there is one) only going to note the symptoms, state to replace the gasket, and give the new gasket part number? It is not going to list the replacement steps is it? My limited understanding is that the only way a TSB would list any maintenance manual steps is if the original maintenance procedures are wrong and they are being updated.

bluedevils

I've noticed that the NHTSA web site actually has more details than alldata.com on certain TSBs. For our Kia Sedona, the NHTSA site had some .pdf links that were the actual communications from Kia USA to Kia dealers. They weren't necessarily detailed repair procedures, but I thought I'd mention this. Try the NHTSA site.

ostaz

I broke my driver side tail light cover tonight backing into a mail box post !~@(&^~

Where do you think a good place on-line would be? I went through a quite a few, and none of them had just the lens (some had the entire assembly).

Thanks
Sam

sdc2

For dealer stuff try St. Charles Isuzu or Best Isuzu. For aftermarket, give Certifit a try. Not sure if Certifit is on line, but they have a shop in Roseville. Much cheaper than dealer for body parts etc.

ryanendres

Used parts can be found at:

www.car-parts.com

boxtrooper

There may be a huge difference in retail vs wholesale parts prices. I have seen this with the bug deflector plastic thing. The dealer wanted $149 to hand it to me in a box. My local body shop place could not sell me the part, but they bought it and installed it for $79. Maybe this will hold true for taillight assemblies as well.

sbcooke

I jacked up my front tires yesterday to check out some of the recent work I had done and I noticed one shock boot was riding up a little when the suspension was fully flexed. I wedged it back on the main shock housing pretty good(fingers crossed it will stay).

What is the impact of this coming loose? Dirt, water, salt, etc. can get on the plunger. Are these boots "nice" but not entirely required, or should expect to have some shock issues down the line?

On a related note...can you jack the truck up (using a shop jack) by the rear differential if I want both rear wheels off the ground? Or do I have to go side by side and use jack stands?

ostaz

I had a flashing "CHECK TRANS" error. I had Auto Zone read the code and it was P1870. I called both the dealer(s) and Isuzu. and they refused to tell me what it is (bring it over to check it out, ya right, $200).

Does any one know what that code is. BTQ, the error disappeared now, but, it is too early to say.

Thanks
Sam

fiveharpers

Usually means that the torque converter clutch is slipping in the transmission. I had to replace 2 transmissions in a gmc suburban for that code.
I would have the transmission fluid checked/service replaced at this point.

Good Luck.
I hate that code
John

raydahs

I saw this on Tech TV's "fresh gear" show.
Don't know if it works on our Troopers, check it out.

http://www.davisnet.com/drive/products/carchip.asp

sbcooke

Pretty cool. I might get that, it seems like a worthwhile investment. I have been experiencing gas mileage that is poor lately and have been wondering about engine performance. Could help.

bluedevils

This week I'm taking our 98 Trooper to a shop and have new spark plugs installed. 77k miles, plugs have not been changed yet.

I'm worried about the old plugs not coming out easily, breaking off, etc.

Is there anything I can do to increase the chances that the technician is able to remove the old plugs easily? I was planning to discuss my concerns with the manager, in hopes that he tells the tech to make sure he/she is careful. Is there any lubricant I can spray down the wells to help loosen the plugs? When would I do this - right before dropping it off, a couple days before, etc.

ostaz

I have changed the tranny fluid after the error was reset. I haven't had the error code for 2 days now, but I will keep an eye on it.

Thanks
Sam

bluedevils

Had plugs changed at a Firestone shop today. 77,937 miles. As usual, forgot to ask for the used parts back, so I couldn't examine the condition of the original plugs. Truck does not seem to run any better than before, but it seemed to be running fine before.

Didn't talk to the tech, but the advisor said the tech didn't mention having any problems doing the job.

Unfortunately, I didn't get the Champion double platinums installed as I wanted. The shop uses Bosch and I didn't feel like explaining to the guy that I wanted something different, and why. Plus that surely would have cost me more since they would have had to pick them up somewhere. I made sure they did NOT use the Platinum +4 since folks have had trouble with those in the newer Trooper. He said they'd use the "twos" or "plus twos" or something like that.

Total was only $87.12, including tax and shop supplies. Seemed pretty reasonable, especially since his phone quote the other day was $100-110 and a Honda dealer quoted about $170.

boxtrooper

If your Trooper does not have the coil over plug system then you may get a boost from replacing your spark plugs and wires and adding these:
http://www.directhits.com They have a custom fit kit for the Trooper and it is important to use low resistance wires with it, included in the kit.
..
My 1995 Trooper went from 9.9MPG and having a hard time (the engine sounded strained) pulling a 4000# trailer to 11.2MPG and it pulls smoother(the engine sounds confident with power to spare) and can stay in a higher gear. The MPG wera tested on multiple trips so it was definately the DirectHits. Around town my Trooper is a little more peppy.

sdc2

If you replace your plugs regularly, double platinums are not needed. They were developed strictly to acheive the 100K plug change interval.

breakor

Bluedevils, my guess is that your shop probably had to get your Bosch plugs delivered as I doubt they routinely stock plugs for Troopers. Thus, asking for Champions would have been no big deal.

I too have heard that the Bosch+4s are very problematic in Isuzu service. I don't know about the Platinum2s. However I remain very skeptical about any multiple electrode plugs. My personal theory, FWIW, is that what you want igniting the fuel is 1 very good spark not several ok ones. Just my $.02.

It might be worth checking to make sure the shop actually installed the Bosch plugs specified in the Bosch catalog. Just call a local parts store that stocks Bosch. Make sure the part number they tell you matches what the shop says they used. I know this sounds like super overkill, but given your recent luck with maintenance jobs it may not be.

bluedevils

Thanks for the feedback. I ASSUMED the shop had the Bosch plugs in stock, but you may be right that they had to pick them up from a parts place.

I tried to get Bosch spark plug part number info on AutoZone's web site but it wasn't there. Maybe I'll give them a call. The paperwork I received has a 6 or 7 digit number, but I'm not sure if it's meaningful (i.e. Bosch part #) or meaningless (internal Firestone part reference #).

sdc2

There is somebody on another board whos 98 Trooper is suddenly smoking like a 2-cycle and going through oil like crazy. Could this be that clogged EGR tube problem that was discussed not too long ago?

bluedevils

That's not me on the other board, but my 98 Trooper IS going through a quart of oil every 1200 miles or so. I paid $200 for an Isuzu dealer to clean the EGR system or something like that. The advisor said on the phone they've had good success with that procedure reducing oil consumption on newer Troopers, but it has made no difference in 2,000 miles since we had it done. Actually, the consumption is still getting worse so that makes me think there is some other problem causing it. Of course, the written documentation made absolutely no mention of reducing oil consumption, and didn't even mention it as my concern for bringing the vehicle in.

I haven't noticed our Trooper smoking from the exhaust but probably should look closer.

breakor

Shock boots are not required. Many, many shocks do not come with them. They are however a good option for keeping damaging grit and grime away from the piston. You might consider adding (replacing?) a cable tie around the bottom of your boot to keep it in place.

The repair manual shows the rear diff to be a "lifting point" and even a drawing of a rolling floor jack with a large lifting head placed there. For safety reasons I certainly wouldn't use a small headed jack (e.g. the Isuzu jack or a cheap low capacity floor jack) there. It would be too easy for the jack head to slip off.

greenmax

In my experience with Japanese cars/trucks, the best performance is usually achieved with spark plugs that the engines were designed for, t.e. NGK or Nippondenso. They are more expensive but worth it IMHO. At the very least, I would have opted for the Champion version. Even copper versions of the plugs specified in the owner's manual would have been a better option. If your old (OEM?) plugs were good so far (75k) why change to something unknown? I have not replaced my Trooper plugs yet (2001 model) but on Nissan and Honda engines Bosch/Autolite/etc have been nothing but trouble.

sbcooke

I am going to put a new tie around the base of the boot. For now I have just pushed it back down.

I have a good hydraulic floor jack, next time I need to I will try using the differential. Though it scares me to even climb under and put a jack-stand underneath when it is jacked up. Something I guess I need to get used to. But it doesn't hurt to be safe.

Thanks for the response.

boxtrooper

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/cars_trucks_suvs/multipower- .asp
http://www.directhits.com

breakor

I too suffer from the fear of heavy stuff falling on me syndrome. Like you noted it cannot hurt to be safe.

Glad to hear you use stands to support your vehicle instead of just relying on the jack.

breakor

I stumbled across this quote - "A very likely cause of oil consumption these days in cars that don't have really high mileage is the oil rings stuck in the ring groove from baked on carbon." http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;- - f=1;t=001553

This would tend to support the EGR link to high oil consumption. Namely as the EGR plugs off the flow of recycled exhaust is restricted. This causes higher combustion temperatures and in turn more carbon formation.

Those of you that have done the EGR cleaning may have only addressed part of the problem. The oil rings may still be at least partially carboned. You might consider a bottle or two of Techron cleaner to see if that helps reduce your oil consumption.

Just my HTH $.02.

catmandu

Time to buy new tires for my 01 Trooper. Origional equipment Duellers are P245 70 R 16. Would like to go to a larger tire, probably an LT 255 75 R l6. ( need the tougher tire for the mountain trails). Problem...will the hard side tire cover fit the slightly larger tire. Anyone run into this problem before ? Also, has anyone found a really rugged mountain trail tire that will serve for highway service too. Any help is appreciated.

sbcooke

I upgraded to Dueler A/T's w/unit-t. They have good offroad ability, depending on the terrain. For example...I have found that in sand, while better than the stock, the dig alot, so I am not sure what type of tire is best for "mountain terrain"?

The Deuler's have been really good around town, traction and ride. The highway is decent, very quiet, however I expected them to perform the same as the stockers if not better based on reviews. The have a little vibration at highway speeds...50-60, above 60 it isn't really noticable. The tread is agressive and everything I read about A/T tires pointed to this, however some reviews rated them better than the H/T's for highway ride.

catmandu

Thanks for the info. Am looking at a Revo-Dueller on the web and doing the research.

paisan

I've heard very good things about them. I'm debating those or another set of the Pirelli Scorpion ATs for my rig when the time comes.

-mike

boxtrooper

I have never before had people come ask me about my tires. Since I put on the AT Revo I have twice had people ask about how I like my tires. I like them.
255/70R16 weigh 33lb. tread depth 13/32
245/75R16 weigh 40lb. tread depth 15/32
265/75R16 weigh 48lb. tread depth 16/32
285/75/16 are heavier tread depth 17/32
tire sizes
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/dpp/sizespecs.asp?passproductid=10- 55
tire description
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/dpp/glamourindex2.asp?passProductI- D=1055
Technology tutorial
http://www.bridgestonetire.com/tech/index.asp?id=tech_unitAQII

catmandu

Have been all over N W Arkansas looking for a 70 series all-terrain tire in a load range D or E to replace my Duellers. Went to Sams club and found really good locking Michlens in a 75 series all-terrain but when I took the hard-side tire cover inside, I could not get the 75 series in the cover. Been thinking about hack sawing slits in the back side every 6 inches or so to help it fit. Hope somebody out there has solved this problem and is willing to share their ideas.

paisan

I don't know of anyone who has fit a larger tire under the cover. I run 275-70s and kept the stock spare under the cover.

-mike

boxtrooper

The soft tire covers are meant for exactly the original tire size. I think it would be an option to get a larger tire cover and cut and paste the Isuzu front panel onto it, but I don't want a cover that bad. I have the 255/70R16 as a spare because I am trying the 5 way rotation sceme for the first time ever.

catmandu

It looks like I will not be able to use the factory hard spare cover if I go to a 75 series tire. Found some at J C Whitneys that will fit larger spares. Question, what problems will come up if I go to a LT-75 series tie over the P-70 series from the factory on my 01 S model? Still cant find a 70 series tire with a greater load range.

leedavidyoung

The ride with my LT's feel firm compared to the P's that they replaced. The negative is that the LT's, due to the heavier load rating, seem to transfer more energy into the truck going over potholes and bumps. On a positive note, the wider tires improved my steering and cornering ability.

I went with an LT to help counter the occasional off-road abuse. I drive 80% highway and do not mind the stiff ride. Most of the changes in driving characteristics are minor. My wife cannot tell a difference when she drives the Trooper. Well she does have to "hop" into the truck now, but that's another story.

Lee

               

catmandu

Thanks for the info. 99% of our miles are highway, but that 1% on really rough rocky trails in Colorado has to be a consideration and I want the stronger sidewalls and load range upgrade,some of the trails are FULL of sharp rocks at about 10-12 thousand feet and a long ways from civilization. Mel

sbcooke

My opinion is that the BFG A/T's are the "best" A/T tire you can get...maybe not the best highway all around tire, but if you are jumping up to an LT series, and worry about flats, etc. far from pavement...I would suggest those. I think you can even get 70 series in LT with those? I believe all of their sizes are LT series.

I chose the P series deulers due to price, most of my driving is onroad, and most of my offroad is sand/dirt oriented.

catmandu

Thanks for the heads up on Goodrichs. Will check at Sams Club for them. How much rougher on the hiway are they ? Will they fit in the hard side rear tire cover?

sbcooke

I don't have a set so I don't know about ride...I doubt they will fit, I am pretty sure they won't if you go up a size.

catmandu

Question, I found a 70 series off road tire. Since nothing else but the stock size (245-70) will fit in the hard side tire cover ,but the spare has only 38 miles on it, I think it would be O-K for a mountain trail spare. If I go to a 255 or 265 (70 series), for the four on the ground,and have a flat on the trail,will the stock tire adversly affect the 4 wheel drive ability till I can have it fixed? We have standard transmisson Thanks everyone---Mel

paisan

I have 275-70s and have a stock sized spare tire. If you do get a flat on the road or trail, you should put the spare in the front. Since the front is an open diffy it won't effect it as far as wear and tear. and a 245-70 v. 255-70 or 265 will be almost nill as far as handling or offroadability, IMHO.

-mike

cwmoser

Just got new Bridgestone Dueler H/L 255/70/16 tires installed today. I got almost 49,000 miles on the original Dueler 684's.

I was also contemplating between Michelin LTX M/S, Dueler AT, and some low price Firestones. The Firestones might have been the real deal at $84/tire and the tire saleman said they were a much better tire than $84 but were priced at that level because of consumers resistance and perceptions of what happened with the Ford Explorer.

The Michelins were almost $70 higher/set and the Bridgestone Dueler AT's were $2 cheaper/tire. It was a tough choice between the 2 Bridgestones and the Michelin and I ended up with the Dueler H/L's.

I went one tire size larger - 255/70/16 and had the white lettering side showing. This tire is a little bit taller and a little bit wider than stock really looks good on my Trooper.

I drove my Trooper into the tire shop with practically worn out Bridgstone 684's that had some vibration due to my neglience to rotate the tires often enough. All 4 tires were worn down below the wear bars and the inside edges on all four were badly worn well into the rubber. The front-end was slightly out of align with a small amount of toe in. But, I had been out in the snow and ice with them in TOD and did not have any problems, but I knew I was taking a chance on sliding out of control or having a blowout so I was especially careful. (But, it was fun doing 360's in deserted parking lots during the snow :-) )

Upon taking my Trooper out for its first spin with its "new shoes", there was a NOTICEABLE difference. The larger tires did have a 'heavy feel' steering and the ride was noticeable smoother, and acceleration seemed noticeably sluggish but not a problem. There is still some road noise from the tires on an asphalt road going home but not as much as the 684's.

For those of you looking for tires for your Trooper, you might want to consider a larger size. I now wonder what a Trooper with 265/70/16's would be like. Paisan has the 275's - and those must really be awsome.

Looks wise, the 255/70/16's is all positive. Handling seems better but a little 'heavy' but I like that feel. Could it be that the 255's are a much heavier tire? Like I mentioned, acceleration seems slightly sluggish than before. When I first got in my Trooper, believe it or not, but I immediately sensed that I was sitting a little taller in the saddle - just a fraction of an inch is very noticable.

sdc2

I'm guessing you are about half an inch higher than stock 245/70s.

beer47

Ok troops, my OEM brakes lasted a little over 87K. I had purchased from St. Charles front and back pads and other stuff (filters ect.) about a year ago. Here is what I paid for the following:
MB1 oil change (I supplied the filter - Isuzu)
Front/Rear disc overhaul (I supplied Isuzu pads)
Tire rotation
flush & fill brake fluid
price paid w/ NJ 6% tax - $233.68
The beautiful thing was that I did not need to have the rotors turned/cut or replaced. I have never had any brakes last this long on any auto I have owned. I feel a little lucky. Cheers to all!

catmandu

What did you do for a tire cover on the rear? beer47, Did the wheel bearings need repacking with your brake job? Mel

beer47

Yes, I had them repack the wheel bearings, I forgot to list that. In tire rotation I had them do the simple front to back. My spare tire cover has never been off the spare, even for a look. I am on my first replacement set that I put on @ 50K. I thought they were OK so I bought the same exact ones that came on it, B-Stones. I should get 50K on these ones also. 87K and counting on 2000 "S". Does anyone know if any idiot lights come on automatically as I approach 90 & 100K?