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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I disagree. I think cars have only gotten better. Some arguements can be made that some manufacturers have slipped, or that some would rather fix a problem after sale than change production lines.

    Overall I don't think we are seeing a product that is worse or less reliable than 5-10 years ago. Forget about mid-80's, taken as a whole, I think it is much better.
  • Where did you apply the adhesive and what type of adhesive did you apply?
  • Yes, I believe I had the fuel line recall done. Is that where they put the skid plates under the fuel lines (underneath the car) to better protect them in a collision ? If so, yes, I had it done.
    Someone (it might have been you pasian) recommended I check the fuel lines and break lines awhile back. I did. They are very tight where they run right up against the fire wall.. as best I could tell anyway.

    I did have a loose screw under the dash that sounded like an alarm clock. (on the drivers side) They literally had to take my entire dash board apart to find it. It turned out to be the mounting screw behind the speedometer had worked it's way loose. Again, only in cold weather and at higher RPM's. Boy was that a bear to find. It sounded like the buzzing of an alarm clock.

    I used a standard clear epoxy for windshield molding. I believe it's holding pretty well. I guess I can always take it to a glass shop to have them take off and remount the entire front windshield but I am not convinced that's what it is. Reason being is I can't repeat the sound by pushing, pulling or tapping anything myself. I have to be on the highway, 60 Mph+, 45 degrees or colder.

    Thanks for any input.

    Steve
  • Sorry "keepontroopin" as I didn't answer your question completely.

    I applied the adhesive to the entire bottom molding that runs the length of the front windshield. I also worked my way up about 1/2 the way on each side (toward the roof). I lifted it up slightly with a screw driver and applied a think coat of glue. I then layed weights on top of the molding to hold it down while the glue set-up.

    It really made no difference in terms of tightening up the molding. From what the dealer tells me, it's supposed to be somewhat flexible and not rock hard. I asked them to reseat the windshield. Originally they agreed and I scheduled a time to have it done. When I took the truck in to have it complete, they called me and told me that the window people said it would make no difference if they reseated/re molded the front windshield since there was nothing wrong with the way it was currently installed. That's when I really felt like choking my service advisor at Davis Isuzu in Richboro, PA. I also felt like choking him when he told me about the spot weld crap. All in all, they are a pretty good dealership and service center. Don't forget, this is the dealership that completely repainted all 4 of my outer wheels wells when the paint got chipped off from a hunting/off roading trip in the mountains in Potter County, PA. So they are really not that bad.

    I noticed that there is some play in the molding about 5-6 inches in from either side along the bottom. I can push in and out on the black molding and produce a slight tapping sound. That's what was making me think it was the molding.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    There were 2 recalls for the fuel lines. 1 was for the plates, the 2nd was for the actual lines IIRC.

    If you live near richboro, pa, you probably are near flemington subaru/isuzu in NJ. If that is the case, I'd take it to them, they so far have been the best Isuzu deal in PA/NJ/NY area I've found. They'll probably have a fix for you.

    -mike
  • Do you have a bug guard on the front of your Trooper? I didn't when I bought mine but added one soon after. That's when i started to experience the same noise. It was super annoying and drove me nuts. I put up with it for three weeks and then said enough. I deternmined the slapping noise as I will describe it was coming from the plastic molding running up the window pillars on the windshield. Here is how you can test to see if it is the same for you. Run two pieces of duct tape along the plastic on the pillars with one side being attached to the plastic molding and the other side being attached to the windshield. Now go out and drive the car to reproduce the noise. If you still hear the noise.....I can't help. But if the noise is gone then remove the duct tape and look at the old posts on this issue. If you can't find the old posts let me know and I will re-write the solution.

    Hopefully you are hearing what I was and I can help you. Do you also hear the sound when you hit a BAD bump????
  • Spirolli,
    I had the same type noise on my 2000S Trooper. One suggestion on this board is to use screen-door spline to fill the gap between the A-post and the windshield, all the way up the post. I just filled that gap with some clear silicone sealant and the noise is gone. Apparently the wind hits that gap and makes that terrible sound....grinding, scraping??
    Try one of the above fixes.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My 99 trooper had a tapping between 10 and 35 MPH when cold, below 40 degrees when it was new. It went away after the first year. I can't remember specifically what fixed it, but I think it was a can of dry gas. I think there was condensation that caused some noise when cold? Just a theory, but I am pretty sure I added a can and it went away?
  • Thanks so much for your input.

    keepontrooping- i will try that asap with the duct tape. i tried to seach on and look bad at the old posts but couldn't find the fix. if it's not too much trouble and when you have the time, can you please let me know what you did to correct the problem. you seem to hit the nail right on the head. i didn't have the noise when i first purchased the truck. it all started after i installed the bug guard. i know it's not the bug guard actually making the noise since i have used felt all around to make sure it won't make a sound. it must be the way the bug guard changes the air flow that causes the molding to make the tapping sound. God... i hope that's what it is.

    justdrivin- where did you find the information on how to fix the problem.? the silicon sounds like an easy fix. like i told keepontroopin, i can't wait to try the duct tape thing to see if it works. i am almost positive it will.

    i'll keep you both posted.

    thanks,
    steve
  • I had never heard of this problem on Troopers' until a few months ago. I have a 95 Trooper w/ 80+k on it. It runs great and I don't have any tapings or any other noises to speak of (actually I don’t have any problems with it what so ever :). My question is what model year did this start showing up in (or has it been in every 2nd gen model), and why?
  • Spirolli,
    The info on fixing the problem is on this site, either under this thread or the Trooper one. I ended up taking the easy route; run a bead of clear silicone sealant up the gap between the windshield and molding, along each A-post. Smooth the bead out with your finger so it just fills the gap. I was skeptical, but it definitely stopped the noise.
  • Spirolli

    I believe in a past post you said you already ran the silicon half way up the pillars. If so you have two choices.

    1.) Fill the remaining part of the pillar with silicon like just drivin said, or

    2.) remove whatever silicon you have run along the pillar and go to a hardware store and by some screen spline. Buy a black color if you can. Cut the spline to the length of the pillar and stuff it under the plastic molding piece. Thats it. I came up with this instead of using the silicon because I didn't know what the silicon would do to the molding piece when the widshield needed replaced (see I currently have three stars in the windshield and replacing it is ineveitable).

    If you need anything else let us know. Also let us know if we tackled your problem.
  • justdrivin, keepontroopin, paisan,

    I wanted thank you all for your help with that annoying sound in the front Windshield. I can't believe that all it took was a bead of silicon run up both A-pillar's to take care of the noise that's been haunting me for the past 16 months. Amazing !

    I bought standard clear silicon from Home Depot and followed your directions this past Saturday. I let it fully dry overnight. I had to drive about 100 miles to attend a super bowl party in perfect conditions to make the windshield rattle. (Windy, Below 40 Degree's all highway driving) You know what....? NOT A SOUND.....! It completely corrected the problem......!

    The only thing that leaves me a little pissed off is the fact that I took the truck back to the dealer 3 times for this exact problem and they couldn't fix it (let alone find it). I find it somewhat unsettling that we as consumers have to be more educated then the so called expert mechanics at the dealership and we have to rely on each other to solve problems that the mechanics should already have the fixes for. Or at least know enough to check "user groups" like this one. Not that any other car mfg is different. Mercedes is the same exact way, if not worse.

    Once again, thanks so much for all of your help.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Actually has reps on edmunds, so they are a bit different.

    -mike
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Is $595 a reasonable cost for 30,000 mile service on a 1999 Isuzu Trooper?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Seems a big steep. IIRC it's lots of checking, and the tranny and t-case and diffy's. My guess would be more like $200-$300 max

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I would take a close look at what is included in Isuzu's and your dealer's definition of a "30k service." Much of it is fluff, as paisan said.

    Focus on the specific items that represent smart routine maintenance and get a price quote for those specific services. Your total bill will be WAY less than $600, and you will not have neglected any important maintenance items, in my opinion.

    Sorry, but I don't need to pay someone to "check" most of these unimportant things, considering that:
    a) it probably doesn't need checking at such a low mileage
    b) the dealer/shop may not actually be checking it
    c) even if the dealer/shop does check it, it's not specified in any documentation (important more for resale value purposes - i.e., "look at this-- I've maintained my truck well" than for warranty enforcement purposes)
    d) I can probably check some of the items myself
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My 15K cost $274, and they replaced all the fluids (differential, trans, oil, etc.) There isn't much more in the 30K than 15K. If you really want it done, look in the back of the owners manual, it lists exactly what is in the 30K service. You might be able to have another shop (non-dealership) do it for much less.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Might be more involved with the 15k as compared to the 30k service. I had the 15k service done on 04April2001 for $212.19. The same dealer is asking $595 for the 30k service.
  • I was at my dealer getting some minor stuff done and noticed that he had a 2001 Trooper LS for sale in the used car department. I couldn't believe it, the truck was mint with only 13,560 miles and they were asking 18,800 for it. My salesman friend said it was a trade in! They must have allowed only about $15000 for it. I knew Troopers had poor resale value, but a $32,000 list truck worth less than $18,000 in a year.
    Boy I hope my 2001 LS doesn't get in a wreck and get totaled, cause I owe more than $18,000
    on it. I like my Trooper but hate to see it worth so little to soon. I sure hope it does last 10 years and I get 150,000-200,000 miles out of it.
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