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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Sometimes I do receive parts back without asking. Had some pricey work done on a Ford Contour a while back (got rid of the car shortly after - a real maintenance nightmare) and when I got home, I noticed the old shocks in the trunk.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I posted a longer version of this on 4x4wire a few minutes ago...

    Just had timing belt replaced - 98 Trooper, 75k miles. Wanted tensioner replaced too but don't think it was; need to call shop back and find out for sure. Seems like the tensioner can actually wear out quicker than the belt on the 3.2L, and maybe 3.5L, Isuzu engines.

    What would you guys recommend as my next course of action?
  • Update 39,000 Miles

    Trooper running well considering I blundered back in November during a late night rain storm cruise run.

    As I pulled off the main road in an attempt to navigate through a soaked and muddied field, I decided (actually it was my wife who decided) it was more than I wanted to handle. While reversing and trying to back onto the road, I slid into a trench. I was able to reverse myself out in 4 Low but twisted the tail pipe around the rear wheel in the process. The wheel popped but the truck did pull itself out which was pretty impressive all in it's own.

    Fortunetly, the field was directly across from my home so I was able to slowly drive the truck up my driveway where it sat in a nasty rain storm until I was able to access the damage in the morning.

    I had to have it towed. The total job cost me about $600 for a new tail pipe and muffler and some other connectors, doo-dads and what nots.

    I also put on a set of Yokohama Geolandar HT's. I paid $77/ea through "tirerack.com". "tirerack.com" blew everyone's price away.

    Compared to the Duelers, I feel that the Yokohama's give a better ride on the highway and provide more stabililty for turning and overall handling. We had a few snow storms here in Bucks County PA and these tires seem to handle as good as the Duelers. I am very happy with the Geolandar HT's.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hmm lets see there is SBCooke in Lower Bucks, I'm in NY/NNJ, we need to get all the Trooper owners in the area together!

    -mike
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Anyone know if these tiny rubber boots can be replaced. This is a rear wheel drive only Rodeo. Boot is leaking grease (the boot is cracked in the middle where the seam is and is a sealed unit, no grease nipple. I have been told the boot cannot be replaced, just let it go and when the tie rod acts up get it replaced with a new one which will have a grease fitting on it.

    Thoughts on this?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I just got a call from my dealer...Rear brakes $190...and $315 for front brakes. For the fronts they have to take the rotors off, repack the bearings, machine the rotors, etc.

    So they want about $500 for the whole job...ugh! He said that if they just replace the pads, I will get pulsing when I brake...what do you guys think?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd do the pads myself. Rear rotors are easy. They should be able to machine the rotors on the vehicle.

    Here's a great website for ordering brakes.
    http://www.brakewarehouse.com/newddtfdb22.asp

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I just had my 30K service done 500 miles ago. I am a little frustrated...I guess I will have to take it somewhere else, unless they will deal on the price.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Not sure if you are looking for comparison quotes, but I'll try to dig up the paperwork from last week's visit. I had new pads installed front & rear, and rotors machined front & rear. Also brake fluid flush (no charge, though they surely overcharged me on the brakes) and front wheel bearing repack. This was the first brake service and wheel bearing repack on our 98 Trooper so far. 75k miles.

    Shop mgr told me they'd machine the rotors while still on the truck. Price for the Isuzu pads wasn't bad, but I think they inflated the labor way beyond what should have been necessary for the job.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Many shops won't install new pads without also machining or replacing rotors. I've had new pads installed and NOT had pulsating right away, but based on all I've heard about this subject, the consensus is it's a good idea to have the rotors machined or replaced, just so you don't wear the pads prematurely due to uneven rotor surface.

    Surprising you need brake work at such an early mileage. What are you doing to your brakes to wear them so quick?

    $500 doesn't seem way out of line for that work. Yes, it's a lot and you could save a bundle by doing yourself, but I'm in no position to do that work myself so I bit the bullet and paid up big.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I just called a competing place and they want $250 a side, doing the rotors on/off the truck. If I can get the first place to bend a little on the price or even a free hat or something, I will probably get it done? The big thing is I am having to pay twice on the labor.

    Paisan, when you just did the pads, did you get pulsing with the brakes?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Oh well...I am getting it done, I barely have enough time to check the oil these days. My service manager said he would try to save me whatever he could on the costs since I did just have my 30K service 3 weeks ago and they missed this. So hopefully they can cut into the labor costs for me, or change the oil for free. At a minimum I want a hat/shirt, ugh!

    Thanks for the quick replies.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I did just pads in the front at 35K, and the rear I did rotors and pads. No problems on 100->10 stops in the front or rear and they've been on for ~10K miles.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    How are you paying twice on labor for the brake work?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    At my 30K service they repacked the hubs and bearings, now two weeks later they are telling that they have to remove the hubs and bearings to resurface the front discs...and then repack again. They don't resurface on the vehicle?

    At my 30K service in December they told me I needed my catalytic converter replaced, so I took my truck home and waited for it to come in. Now 2-3 weeks later I need new brakes? I would think they should check brakes at a 30K service. Fortunately the service manager thought the same thing, so he is going to try to cut some costs for me.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I'd have to check my owners manual, but I'm guessing a brake inspection is called for every 30k miles or maybe every 15k miles (which would include a check @ 30k). That's pretty standard for any vehicle. So if you took in your truck and told them to do "the 30k service," they should have checked the brakes. Even if it wasn't specified in the owners manual, or in the dealer's standard 30k maintenance service, or requested by you, they should have looked at the brakes when they repacked the wheel bearings. I don't know much, but isn't that stuff all right in the same vicinity?

    I'd make sure the service mgr knows you think they owe you some relief on the costs - don't let him keep telling you he's trying to do you a favor and help you out. That's garbage. I'd also make sure he knows how disappointed you are that they did such a sloppy job and missed the brakes on the last trip. You could have ruined your rotors in those 2-3 weeks, plus you could have saved this trip back (ignoring the cat converter) by having brakes fixed on your last visit.

    I had the wheel bearings repacked and brake work done at the same time - waited until 75k until doing both for the first time. The Honda dealer told me they'd machine rotors while still on the truck.

    At a minimum, the dealer should NOT charge you any labor, or parts which are probably just a few bucks, on the wheel bearing re-repack.

    I don't remember for sure - couldn't find paperwork last night - but I think Honda dealer charged me $55 for the front pads and about $62 for the rears (parts cost) on my 1998 Trooper. Hope this helps.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Here's what I paid for brake work @ Honda dealer last week. 98 Trooper, 75k miles. No previous brake work except inspections. Replaced front & rear pads, machined front and rear rotors, flushed brake fluid. Wheel bearing repack was also included in the price of the front brakes; I'm not sure how much $$ that was, but I think the shop mgr said it was about an hour labor.

    Front brakes & wheel bearing repack:
    2 oil seals @ 7.22 ea = $14.44
    pads $52.00
    Labor 3 hrs @ $76 = $228
    Total job $294.44

    Rear brakes
    Pads $55.00
    Labor 2 hrs @ $76 = $152
    Total job $207.00

    Brake fluid flush
    No charge

    So I paid $501 for all this work. Labor hours seem pretty high for pad install and rotor resurfacing. Any thoughts?

    I spent $1,051 on this visit after a discount of $147 (not sure what it was for), so if you apply roughly half this discount to the brake work then I really paid more like $450.

    So, about $450-500 for: new pads and machined rotors front and rear, brake fluid flush, and front wheel bearing repack.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    That is fairly consistent with what I am paying. Thanks for the update.

    Why a Honda dealer? Were they a Honda/Isuzu before or something? The labor charge seems right in line with what my dealer is charging...maybe the only way to beat that price is to go to a local mechanic?
  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    I have a 98' Rodeo S, 4Dr, 2 Wheel Drive. The ABS light is turning on from time to time at random. It has 66K miles on it, did the 60K and all other reccommended Scheduled maintanence. I had the ABC module replaced around 40K as part of the warranty. I have not yet taken to the dealership. Like to have some info before heading to the dealership and expect to get an unexpected quote to fix it. Any comments, help is appreciated
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Isn't the '98 part of the ABS recall?

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Closer to home - nearest Isuzu dealer is 20 inconvenient minutes away.

    Also, my impression was the shop mgr knew what he was talking about (I'm not so sure after my most recent visit) and they treated me right my first visit there - free brake inspection (though they must have misdiagnosed, since it was < 8k miles ago and they said '45-50% left front & rear' and I just had brake work done and they and another shop said the rears were basically done) and free chassis lube, plus I had a coupon for free A/C inspection. Brake inspection, fuel filter change, coolant change, A/C inspection, and chassis lube for about $85.

    I got a quote from an Isuzu dealer and their estimate on the brake and t-belt etc. work sounded even higher.

    This Honda shop changed names in the past 6 months but I think all staff stayed. Unfortunately their hourly labor rate increased from $72 to $76-- about 5-6%.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I am going to start going someplace else for the same reason. However I have found that the trooper is very particular about some things, and a shop that cannot service a truck, cannot get them right (i.e. alignment, balance, 4wd systems, etc). There is an old Isuzu dealer who is a primary ford shop nearby, I am thinking about trying them since they sell trucks. My current dealer is 30 minutes away and also a ford variant (to my surprise I have been lucky so far with them).
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    If only I could get a 2003 Tahoe bucket seat for my 2000 Trooper, Life would be a dream. Perhaps, it is just me but if you do 3000K a month like I do these seats will wear on you. Maybe I'm just getting old! If I could get out even on it I would make the switch, but I am sure I am upside down on my truck (yes, I knew it going in). Other than the seat though, it has been one GOOD truck. Maybe I'll feel better if I can 200K w/o a major repair. 83K and counting on my 2000"S" Cheers to all!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Those seats must REALLY be bothering you if you'd be willing to get out of the Troop for a Tahoe! I like the Tahoe but it doesn't have the things that make the Trooper great.

    Hey, are you still pleased with your replacement shocks? Would you choose something else if you could do it again? My notes show you did the Monroe Reflex shocks, and got a great deal at $200 installed. Is that correct?
  • beer47beer47 Posts: 185
    Yes, the shocks I put on have been A-OK and I hardily recommend them. I do not feel that stock Trooper shocks are not meant to go any where near 100K plus. I love my Trooper but would love to be able to cross-breed a Trooper with a Tahoe!! Imagine, big/comfortable and reliable. Such a deal would neat! Perhaps in time. Cheers to all!
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My OME's still feel good, they are about 2 years old and have 15K or so miles on them. I have used them somewhat hard offroad, I wonder how long they will last, 30K, 50K? A truck ride seems to require more than a car.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I have had my OME shocks for at least 35K miles, still doing fine.

    I generally swap shocks every 50K or so, more often than most people I know. IMO shocks generally don't go 100K without serious degredation in performance.
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    to all the people that previously reported the solution. I am sure it would have taken me quite a while before I would have otherwise figured out that the sliding mechanism at the bottom was the culprit.
  • ostazostaz Posts: 80
    The first anniversary of rust proofing my wife's van is next month. I inspected it, and found no rust whatsoever.

    I had sprayed it last year with Waxoyl (as I did my 99 Trooper last summer).

    Waxoyl goes on as a spray, and gets harder but stays flexible like a wax.

    I will let you know in the spring, how my Trooper is doing.

    Sam
  • Ostaz: How much preparation do the surfaced need to prevent forming covered pockets of corrosion?
    Thank You
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