Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

17778808283109

Comments

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I have the panel filter also. Works great and even helps prevent water from going into the engine. Pulls slightly over 4000rpms but not much IMHO.

    -mike
  • emiuraemiura Posts: 59
    I went to a independent shop, not a dealer. The 30K service was about $260 at the same shop, but that price included $50 discount. I'm happy with this shop.

    One of the Isuzu dealer in my area discontinued Isuzu recently. The other dealer still sell and service Isuzu vehicles, but they let all Isuzu techs go as they are mainly selling Hyundai now. Now my warranty is almost over, I probably won't need dealer service any more.

    Are you in SLC? I remember seeing Isuzu dealer by Hwy 15 in Draper or Lehi?
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I put in the K&N filter drop in and it helped a little for towing a 4000# trailer when the gas pedal is pushed to the floor and stays there a while. Once before the K&N I replaced the air filter with a clean paper replacement and going from dirty fitler to clean filter made a big difference. The K&N says it will maintain a higher flow rate longer even as it gets dirty, that is what sold me on it.
    ..
    I previously installed and removed the calmini K&N exposed filter kit. It has a port on the heavy steel tube for the small hose that was not at the correct angle so I would have had to buy a longer small hose. I did not like the mounting bracket sturdiness compared to the amazing weight of the big steel tube. I ran it in the driveway and decided to remove it right then because the exposed cone shaped filter is right in line with the engine cooling fan such that any water or debris that hits the fan could hit the K&N filter element directly at high velocity. The K&N filter element looks like an oily tee shirt stretched over a metal screen, not enough to prevent a hole from a small stone coming off the fan blade in my opinion.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Rather than take it to the dealer and be told it is "normal" wear, I took it to a local shop today and told them to take a look at it. Barring anything too expensive, I am just going to have them fix it. The only thing I can think that might have to go to the dealer is if the whole gear needs to be replaced? I still might try to find a rebuilt one cheap and have the local shop put it in. I figure up to $250 is worth it to save the hassle of multiple trips and not great service from a dealer network that is not entirely supporting their product.

    On a related note, my Check Engine light came on during my trip there? At least is was before rather than after.
  • Please keep us up to date on your repair work. It would be great to find an inexpensive fix for the loose steering issue.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    The local shop I took it to was able to recreate the slack in steering. However when they got it on the rack and checked everything out couldn't find anything wrong? The gear was tightened properly.

    The problem happens mostly when it is warmed up? So it is probably something inside the ball bearings inside the worm gear, and that I should have the dealer replace it if anything. UGH...I have an appointment Saturday to demonstrate this problem to my dealership and then possibly setup an appointment to have it resolved. Otherwise I will just have to outright pay/tell someone to replace the gear entirely.

    The mechanic said he didn't think it was a safety issue? However I have felt a shimmy at 45-55 MPH since it started and had my tires balanced twice. I can feel this slack offroading, where the wheels and steering moves, but the steering wheel doesn't, as if the gear is banging against either side of the slop?

    My Check Engine code was a "44"? Another thing I will have to have the dealer look at.
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    need a short advice or instruction on how to replace the fuel filter in term of brand and thing to look for. My is 99 lux. version. Bought it used and don't think previous owner had replaced it.

    Thanks in advance
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    The fuel filter is inside the frame rail, passenger side, in front of the rear tire. Replacement is fairly simple. Before replacing, depressurize the fuel system by pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking the engine.

    You will still get some gas on you...wear safety glasses.
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    Thanks for the infor. on fuel filter replacement sdc2.
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    hello again. I'm getting ready to replace my spark plugs on 99 Trooper. Any suggestion on brand, level of difficulty and possibly brief instruction? I had changed the plugs before but not on this trooper.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    The Trooper is the easiest vehicle I have ever replaced plugs on. For five of the six plugs all you need is a standard long extension for the plug socket. The slightly tricky one is the corner by the master cylinder, you can't get a long extension in there. I was able to do it by feeding in two short extensions, one at a time.

    Unclip the coil pack wire connector, remove the coil pack. The plug "wire" down to the plug is integral with the coil pack, and will come out when you pull off the coil pack. Swap the plug, doing all the usual things you do in a plug change (anti-seize on the threads, start the new plug with fingers to avoid cross-threading, etc.) Reinstall the coil pack and you are done.
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    thanks sdc2. I noticed you have a 99 trooper also. Have any pictures to show on your aftermarket add-on or mod?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    What mileage do you think this should be done? What benefits? I am getting very poor mileage and have toyed with the idea of a plug swap. However I only have about 15k on my current set.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    There are a few pics on the Owners Gallery at isuzu-suvs.com under "BigSwede", they are a couple of years old, though. Mods at that time were mostly OME shocks and coils, and 265/75 Pirelli Scorpions, and an ECB nudge bar.

    This year I have installed a Calmini rear bumper, DOR rock sliders, and ARB bullbar. I have a couple of crappy digital pics I could email you if you want.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    many makers of plugs and ignition kits to read about. If your Trooper has the high voltage spark plug wires read about a upgrade that helped me a go from 9.9mpg to 11.2 mpg for towing at http://www.directhits.com.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Got my truck back from the dealer last night. SOTF fixed as well as the front speed sensor on the TOD unit, which was causing the dampness that I saw. My extended warranty covered it for me :)

    It's nice to have 2wd available again :)

    -mike
  • satysaty Posts: 23
    anyone have the fluid changes ( both differentials, transfer case, coolant, etc) at Jiffy Lube? Their prices are unbeatable compare to an Isuzu dealer or local Firestone shop.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I had my tranny and radiator fluids swapped at a local place called Rapid Oil Change, basically the same as Jiffy Lube. Went fine, even if the tech was still in high school...
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    How do you take the tension off the tensioner when replacing the serpentine belt?

    On my previous Blazer, you just inserted a socket wrench into a square hole in the tensioner arm to pivot it, loosening the belt. I can find no such hole on the Trooper, and the shop and owners manuals were not enlightening. I know there must be an easy way...
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    Decided to try and repack the wheel bearing on my 01 Trooper. Everything was going fine,until the three small philips head screws on the outside ring before the hub nut began to strip out at the head. I tapped on them several times (as Mr. Chang pointed out in his article) but they just rounded out very easily. Put everything back together and headed for the computer. What are my options on getting the screws out to finish the job, and where to buy a tool to do it...Any HELP would be appreciated , Thanks
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Catmandu, the best way to attack these (retainer ring) screws is with an impact screw driver. You don't even want to attempt to loosen them without one. They can be had at most any place that sells tools & hardware for around $20. You wack'em with a hammer/mallet & they back the screws out without slipping & rounding out the head. G/luck
    Joel
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    Am heading to the parts store, I also was told to look for an Easy-out or smomthing to get the stripped screws out--Thanks--Mel
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    Like already noted, the key is using an impact screwdriver. Harbor Freight sells one for around $6.

    In that you have already partially stripped the heads, I strongly recommend that you clean out/deepen the screwhead slots BEFORE using the impact screwdriver. The more bite you can give the screwdriver the better off you will be. If you have a Dremel tool and a very small slot cutting bit you might try using that to carefully chase the slots in the top of the screws.

    To make your job much easier next time, especially now that you have already compromised the screwheads, get yourself some new machine screws. IIRC they are 4X8mms. Home Depot and Lowes both sell them in stainless steel. These are much less likely to strip than the factory supplied brass screws.
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    Also, any problems after the retainer ring screws to look out for. I already found out the red wheel bearing grease I normally use on older vehicles is not right for my Trooper. I found a light color wheel bearing grease made by Quaker State that is for disc brake cars and looks like the factory grease thats in there. What do you use for a grease seal remover? Do you use locktite (what strength) on the retainer screws and or anything else? Thanks, Mel
  • ryanendresryanendres Posts: 122
    http://www.mjw.com/amigo/images/belt.jpg

    check the above link. You just need a socket wrench and a pipe on the end of it to give you a bit more torque.
    -Ryan
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    IIRC, the grease spec is NLGI#2 for disc brakes.

    As to a grease seal remover, yes they make them. However, no matter how you remove the seals you always ruin them. Plus with all the mileage on them they need to be replaced in any event. The point being that a seal remover only makes the job a little easier, it doesn't save the seals. No doubt many people just use a long-handled screwdriver and pry out the old seals. Just be careful not to scar the rotor.

    FWIW, I have not used Locktite on the 3 hub nut screws. I just very securely re-tightened them. Then again I am no mechanic so maybe this was a mistake. My thought was that these screws are hard enough to remove as is let alone with Locktite. However, with Locktite the chances of a worst case scenario (e.g. a wheel coming loose at speed) are no doubt less. Thus, you should use your own judgement and do your own research before deciding to use or not use Locktite.

    Again, just my $.02. YMMV, use at your own discretion, risk, etc.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Excellent advise breakor. Catmandu, you've probably seen this already, but this is the best write-up i've seen for brng repack procedure: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

    Joel
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    JTK152-- will head to Sears(40 miles away) to look at their impact drivers. The ones I looked at in our small town didnt have a small enough bit to fit tightly. Breakor--cant find a 4mm/8mm anywhere in the great city of Bentonville ,Arkansas. Tried Lowes, several auto parts stores---everyone has an 8 by 1/2 or so but no 8mm by 4mm( which one is the diameter?) There is an Isuzu dealer in Fayetteville and I will try them tomorrow . What is the actual length of these screws and are ALL machine screws -metric ?Thanks again ,Mel
  • breakorbreakor Posts: 398
    IIRC you want a #2 phillips bit. Can't you locally buy such a bit that fits the locally available impact screwdriver? In fact if you already have a screw/nut driver set with interchangeable bits it likely has a #2 bit that will fit whatever impact screwdriver you buy.

    To repeat, I am going from memory here. My recollection is that they are 4mm in diameter and 8mm in length. No doubt machine screws can also have different thread spacing and pitch specifications. Thus, 4X8mm is not a definitive specification. However it was my experience that Home Depot carries only 1 machine screw in that size. It worked just fine and the ones at Lowes looked to be exactly the same. No, all machine screws are not metric. Most in the US are SAE.
    Thus, when you go to Lowes or HD you have to be sure and check for the metric parts bins. You might also might try a NAPA or Pep Boys as some of them have good selections of metric items although usually not quite that small.

    Once you get the impact screwdriver make sure you have it set to remove not tighten. Then practice on a few screwheads first to get the hang of it. No big deal but in that the heads are already somewhat compromised you want to get it right the first hit.
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    Thanks for the info-- will head to Fayetteville tomorrow and see what happens--Thanks again--Mel
  • catmanducatmandu Posts: 53
    Thanks for the info-- will head to Fayetteville tomorrow and see what happens--Thanks again--Mel
Sign In or Register to comment.