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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories

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Comments

  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    At 7.5 inches of the linear tongue before the elbow, the bar would never reach the gas tank even if it busted through the welded steel back part of the receiver, which on thinking about it seems impossible. For a longer tongue I am having a collar welded on. The collar will be adjacent to the outside of the receiver and block the tongue from going to the steel plate welded to the back of the receiver. This will be definitely an overkill. Also, rear end collisions of the magnitude necessary for any such scenario are very rare. THERE IS NO doubt that the hitch bolts and the hitch L-brackets mounted to the frame will bend first, just like in any other bumper when it is hit. As Paisan points out, without this the person is right into your gas tank. The 'bumper' on the trooper is basically a piece of plastic over heavy duty sheet metal. Also, I believe Arktrooper returned his WAAG rear bar when he found out that they did not even guarantee that it would stop a small bump such as one from parking.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Does the rack allow you to tap into any hole position along the roof and is the width exactly correct or is it adjustable? What did you do to the plasstic molding at the attachment points? Did you cut around it. Anything special to make sure its leak proof?
  • cd1000cd1000 Member Posts: 16
    I had to move one of the crossbars down about 7" so it could connect with the feet screwed in the factory holes. Thw width is correct although it does extend over each side a little bit and it can be slid back and forth to be sure it is centered. I was going to add another bar(custom) for stability since I moved the one crossbar 7" but it does not need it. It is very sturdy and would not be an issue unless someone crawled on top and jumped up and down. The molding is some sort of aluminum covered by plastic and I cut it on each side of the four feet(not all the way through) so it would give. I was able to clip it back in and it looks normal. I did not do anything special for leaks--the screws 6mm x 25mm fit perfectly and the strip is over the bolts.The bolts and feet are very secure. I did not even pull the tape up over the holes--just punched through the hole. I just sprayed some silicon on the bolts for added rust protection. Chris
  • redtrooperredtrooper Member Posts: 2
    Been out of town, hadn't had a chance to give my thoughts on speaker upgrade. I have the factory stereo/cassette w/ 6 cd changer on an 01 Trooper. I put in 6" Polks up front and 5 1/4" polks in the back. Got them via Crutchfield with their sale on Polks in April.

    Rear upgrade. Obviously going from 4 inch to 5 1/4 inch helps. Also I started closing the cargo cover as someone suggested earlier. The difference didn't seem as big as expected when I did side-by-side comparisons against the factory speakers.

    Front upgrade. At first, (same as with rear speakers) only changed the right front speaker. Did side by side comparisons...fiddled with all bass...then all treble...tried to isolate highs, lows, middles, clarity, etc, using several different songs/CDs to compare the Polks to the factory speakers.... Well, I must admit the Polks didn't seem to beat the the factory speakers by much, if any. Thought I'd wasted my money. But,

    Call it synergy. Once I had all four Polks in, voila, it sounds much better, crisper. I'm happy. Also the construction quality of the Polks is great. Think they'll last forever. I don't plan to do anything else to my sound system. A little more bass would be nice, but it's not worth the cost/effort/modification/lost-space to me.

    Bottom line: For me, $150 well spent.
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    Does anyone know if a 6 disc changer from a 2001 Trooper will also work with a 2000 Trooper's factory stereo?

    Let me know!
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    In a serious rear-end collision, I would think the hitch would offer ADDED protection to the vehicle in general, including the gas tank. I can't see how it would hurt to have that heavy steel bar behind the bumper, especially since the bumper is largely theoretical in nature.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I agree. As Paisan noted, the hitch is designed to channel energy toward the frame either when towing or when the 5000 lb trailer bares down on the receiver assembly in a hard stop. The same would apply for someone hitting the rear.
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    What model thule box do you have and do you like it? Recommendations? TIA.
  • guillguill Member Posts: 94
    Just saw a pic of your Trooper on Mike's site, nice ride! Question about your roof rack, what brand is it? How does it attach to the roof? TIA.
  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    I can't say that I agree entirely with the theory of using a trailer hitch as a bumper. If we're to believe what the manufacturers and the government tell us, the bumper is just that--a structure designed to absorb impacts to the vehicle.

    The stresses that are absorbed by the trailer hitch are gradual in nature and are channeled through a different path than the sharp impacts transmitted by a bumper. If hit, the bumper is going to have to dissipate much more energy than towing will ever create.

    Now, I know that many of you live in New York, where, apparently, people park and drive by "feel." Understandably, you wish to protect you vehicles from the damage that can be caused by this type of driving. However, the vast majority of us do not live in such a venue. So, not only are you now redesigning the impact protection of your vehicle, you are also jeopardizing other vehicles that may impact yours and become test drivers for your new impact system.

    Witness Ford's efforts to minimize such damage with their supplemental bumper system on their Excursion.

    Finally, your newly engineered system may cause more harm to another vehicle than the bumper otherwise would have. Many of you will argue that the other vehicle "deserves" more damage if they hit you. But the bottom line is that no one wants to be in an accident, whether or not they caused it. I'm sorry, but it absolutely drives me nuts to see people driving around with a trailer hitch in the receiver when they are not towing something. That hitch will cause a hell of a lot of damage if it impacts something, and it may also damage the vehile it is attached to when the hitch assembly bends the frame.

    Of course, your opinion may vary.

    Tom
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    I had someone do over $1000 dollars in damage to the back of my '99 trooper in a parking lot because he was cutting between my truck and a pole. Now if that bar would have hit his vehicle and made a bang and he would have stopped and thought its a little close, his insurance premiums would be a lot less right now.

    The hitch is attached to the frame just like a bumper. The present trooper bumper does very little if anything. The hitch mounted bar represents something close to a regular bumper like on the older vehicles. It offers protection. If one is worried about this then once must also ban all hitch mount bike racks (more dangerous IMO), other accessories that people put on hitches like cargo carriers etc. I do not agree that your vehicle needs to be designed to soften the impact to someone else. First of all if they don't hit the bumper bar they are liable to ride underneath and plow into the gas tank. Second, by doing damage to the spare tire case, the back doors, the bumper, and the lights, they can end up paying $4000 to pay for your vehicle. That has to hurt in insurance alot more than that bar bumping their bumper. Finally, if I want to put a steel bumper on the back and the front of my trooper as a modification, something that Isuzu does not do now because of prohibitive cost and the hopes of a little better gas mileage, then that is my perogative. The back of the trooper is not designed for protection of the other vehicle--let's face it. Sorry but there is a big difference in opinion here.
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    BTW, I'm from the old school, where until recently my cars were V8s with large chrome steel bumpers (charger, cordoba, FORD LTD). The new trend toward plastic bumpers is not for safety as much as it is for lowering the cost of making the vehicle (a lot less steel), raising gas mileage, and making the car more disposable.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    1) The bumpers are 100% cosmetic on MOST Suvs. Since they don't need to have 5mph bumpers, they are generally sheet metal with a plastic covering which does nothing to protect you or the person hitting you. It does however allow for more damage, therefore increasing the spare parts market which is where the parts vendors make their money (most of the parts vendors have an exclusive contract for replacement parts, and sell the manufacturer the orginal parts near cost) I too have had steel/chrome bumpers on my cars for year ('74 Olds 98, '83 Ramcharger)


    2) The protection that will be provided above stock is incredible. The cover of the spare tire alone is nearly 2x the cost of the metal bar alone.


    3) Are you suggesting that we ban all trailer hitches and tounge attachements? Like bike racks, platforms, and people who leave the tounge inside the receiver all the time?


    There is definitely a big range of opinions on this topic. IMHO if you are gonna worry about it hitting the tank, then you shouldn't buy a car with the tank rear mounted. Not to mention there is a skid plate, a steel tank, and a huge trailer hitch bar between the bumper protector and the gas tank! You also have a very hot muffler sitting next to the tank as well, in a collision that could be pushed into the gas tank and cause it to ignite!


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • serranoserrano Member Posts: 107
    Paisan and GPM,

    I am not at all advocating "banning" people from using bike racks, et. al., in their hitch receiver. When you are using those accessories, there is clearly a purpose to having them in the hitch. What I AM suggesting, however, is that the bumper protection that you have installed to protect you from parking lot dings has just added a new, untested dynamic to the vehicle when you are rear-ended at twenty mph.

    I agree with you that bumpers do not offer a great deal of protection. But you're really not trying to save yourselves from danger in an impact here. If you think that a two-inch tubular piece of steel with one welded attach point will do that, then you're substantially more optomistic than I would be. I don't think you are. The real reason is that you don't want the paint scraped off the corner of your bumper. Your second paragraph above pretty much sums it up. The "protection" you seek is protection from scuffs on the vehicle. I don't think you'd be any happier if your '74 Olds or your '83 Ramcharger had dents or scrapes in their bumpers, regardless of the quality of steel in the bumpers. Also, there's nothing on the back of those vehicles to hit. Let's face it: Isuzu couldn't protect their spare tire design unless the bumper was 3 feet deep. So let's not chalk up the decision to buy the bar to anything other than cosmetic protection and the fact you think you're paying too much at the parts store.

    Please don't use the "they don't make them like they used to" argument. All cars today are so much safer and maintenance-free that there is no comparison. One need only make one trip to MN to see the effects of corrosion on those old vehicles. There's no question that they cost much more, but you are getting much more.

    I made no comments about the fuel tank. I have no more idea what would happen in an impact than you do. However, that's the point here. Isuzu did two recalls to fix a fuel line leakage caused by an impact--we have no idea what the extra bumper will do.

    As I said before, it is your prerogative to install such a device. However, if you should get into an accident (something more than a parking lot fender-bender), please don't expect the other party to be happy if your new bumper flies around and causes additional damage than otherwise would have happened.

    I realize that we disagree on this issue. All I'm asking is to give some thought to the consequences of having a two-inch tubular piece of steel that is pointed on both ends hanging below your bumper. My posts are not meant to change your mind any more than I could change your religious or political views, how often you change your oil, or what octane you believe to be the best. However, please don't try to convince me of the engineering and protective merits of an untested bumper system until there are actual tests to validate your claims.

    Regards,
    Tom
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    The back of the trooper itself is untested for over 5 mph and not optimized for even a 5 mph 'crash' based on that crash test. There is nothing optimal about the current arrangement. I suppose you would not advocate that bumperless pickups, which are sold as optimal. Nor are tractor trailer trucks optimal with their bar hanging from the trailer. There is no reason to consider that the bar would be any worse or better in a crash test since no crash test info exists with or without it. Also, the bar is being added to prevent damage under the couple mph tap scenario, it is not being advocated as crash protection. This as I pointed out above will help the other person in terms of insurance premiums not make it worse. There are hitch bumpers sold and available for SUVs. There are hitch balls that are parts of bumpers. Non of these things are necessarily optimal for a rear ender. Nor are SUVs such as the trooper optimized for a rear ender as your first post may have inferred.

    BTW, in terms of thoughts of how to make crashes less dangerous we could go on all day and include items in the cargo area of your SUV that could fly if not tied down, bike racks on the back of cars with bikes flimsily attached, people on cell phones (legislation being passed against that in CT when driving), tractor trailer trucks, vehicles of unequal size which give undo advantage to the person with the bigger truck in the crash, etc. I've thought about it and do not believe the bar is going anywhere in a crash but will only bend toward the trooper bumper. I do not believe it will cause added problem in a crash and it might stop someone from running up under the trooper.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The fule tank line re-call effected the front of the vehicle, in the automatic transmission area. and the Fire-wall, and it was in a frontal collission test. This item has the same safety features as bike racks, rear platforms, and toungues that are un-attached to a trailer. If you had to pay:

    rear bumper replacement and painting: $750
    tire cover: $250
    rear door: $1,XXX ???
    lights: $250??

    Protective bar: $129

    IMHO this bar is gonna save me a lot of money in the long run. If I didn't parrallel park, go to strip malls, go to malls, or park near others, then I'd never have a need for it. :)

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I think you guys are talking about two different scenarios here, Mike is talking about a parking lot type low-speed collision, where the bar might save you some $ on repairs. Tom is talking about a higher speed collision, where the bar won't save you much, if anything, and MIGHT do something unexpected, we really don't know. That's what I am getting out of this discussion, anyway.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My argument is that it's no different to have the bar on the back than other hitch mounted accessories, and in fact it may help you in an accident. Anyone putting down the bar, will also have to in all fairness put down rear baskets, bike carriers, arb style rear bumpers, tounges left in the receiver hitch, etc. etc.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey guys,
    I finally did some real off-roading today down in the Pine Barrens after installing the new shocks and springs. Before I left, I cranked up the Rancho 9000s to setting 5 (most stiff setting) and it made a world of difference. Combined with the OME rear springs the truck handled like a charm. The best part was once I got home, I cranked them back down to 3/3 and it is a nice relatively soft ride for day to day use. I'm sure the OME shocks are also great off-road, but if you are a person who does very little off-roading, but wants to be able to stiffen them up when you do those few off-roading stints these are THE shocks to get.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    After off-roading yesterday with the rear bar on, I found it to be an excellent off-road addition. I had to back up into some brush and small tress while on the trail and the bar protected the rear from scratches! It also didn't impeed any angles of attack or departure. I was quite suprised! Only time it came out was when we had to tow a fellow trooper out of a mud-hole after he sucked in some water.

    -mike
  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    Mike- I can see where the bar could really come in handy off road as well. I could have used it this weekend on our trail ride in Birmingham. Overall, I'm convinced it offers a lot more advantages than disadvantages(if any). I mean for $129 you get alot of situational protection against rear damage. And cosmetic damage can be just as expensive. Keep up the good work.

    I should have some photos to forward from our ride in the next couple days.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cool, I'll make a page on the site for the pics from Birmingham.

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    Yes, the advantage offroad is something I will find useful as well. This thing is welded steel at multiple spots with the tongue inside the receiver. Its not going anywhere. Trailers can flip SUVs during towing and the tongues stay in the receivers during the accident. Back doors mounted by hinges and rear mounted spare tires mounted by 3-bolts don't go flying off when they are hit either.
  • flinflin Member Posts: 29
    Anyone seen an option to replace the crappy backseat cupholder thing with a camouflaged subwoofer? I don't want a box or anything big in the cargo area- just something nice and small to round out the bottom end on the stereo.
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Troopers work great with kids and car seats. We routinely load ours up with kids, car seats, and enough gear for the Oregon trail. The kids love the high riding position and the picture windows. There's lots of room in the back seat to manuever when installing the car seats. This weekend we had company so there were three car seats in the back - two front facing and one rear facing.

    For those of you with children still using car seats, I've found some tether points to secure front and rear facing carseats.

    For front facing you can use the cargo tie downs in the cargo area. Just toss the tether over the back of the seat - then crawl in back and hook it up and tighten it.

    For rear facing car seats - you can use the center position in the back seat. Just open the plastic panel below the cup holders and you'll find a couple straps there that are designed to hold the back seats in place when they are in the folded / tumbled position.

    You can fasten your tether to one of the straps in a pinch - but it would be better to replace the screw that holds the straps with a tether bolt. Most car seats with tethers come with a bolt and a fastener to clip the strap to. Might have to crawl under the vehicle to put a reinforcing washer on the bottom side. When you're not using it you can put the plastic panel back and cover up the tether bolt.
  • dbreauxdbreaux Member Posts: 23
    my check engine light keeps coming on every time the fuel goes to half or less. I loosen and replace and that takes care of it most of the time. When I start in the morning the vehicle starts right up but then wants to die and sometimes does. Could this also be related to a possible bad gas cap? My dealer said they have had problems with some additive used in the fuel. Any help would be appreciated;
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    This sounds like the gasket problem that many people have been experiencing. If I had to hazzard a guess, get your dealer to replace the fuel cap. If the problem persists tell him to check the manifold gasket. IIRC someone (or a few) on here posted about having the gasket replaced for rough idling and CE lights.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I don't know about the 2000, but the 1999 has 3 pre-drilled holes across the bed that can be used with "official" tethering bolts/equipment. If you pull up the cargo mat, the carpeting is even perforated in those spots. You would either have to lose the cargo mat or cut a hole in it to use those.

    BTW it is also nice that the shoulder belts in the rear have the feature that forces them to be retracted before they can be let out. Any car sear you put on those cannot come lose without an adult removing it.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Now that I am investigating having my engine rebuilt...the idea came to me to put a "better/bigger" engine in? Has anyone investigated or ever put another engine in a newer trooper? The transmission spec page says it can handle up to a 4.1L motor?

    If I actually have to shell out 6 grand to rebuild my engine, I wonder how much a pontiac 454 would cost to put in? Or perhaps if I have my engine rebuilt vs. replacing the bottom half, could I have it bored out? If Statefarm doesn't cover it, I may look down one of these routes...
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Might cost upwards of $10K for a 350, cause you'll need the tranny in addition to the engine. I don't know of any engines more powerful than the 3.5 that is bolting up to the same tranny. You might want to get an Axiom engine though :)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Chat tonight @ 10pm here on Edmunds! Link in the Owner's Club Area.


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Now that I am investigating having my engine rebuilt...the idea came to me to put a "better/bigger" engine in? Has anyone investigated or ever put another engine in a newer trooper? The transmission spec page says it can handle up to a 4.1L motor?

    If I actually have to shell out 6 grand to rebuild my engine, I wonder how much a pontiac 454 would cost to put in? Or perhaps if I have my engine rebuilt vs. replacing the bottom half, could I have it bored out? If Statefarm doesn't cover it, I may look down one of these routes...
  • centralcentral Member Posts: 51
    I would personally be afraid of such a swap on a new Trooper. First you have to solve numerous physical dimension issues (e.g. engine and transmission mounts, larger radiator for cooling the larger engine, moving power steering and AC brackets, modified driveshaft lengths, etc., etc.). Also, you have to somehow either adapt the Isuzu computer/sensors to the new engine/transmission or replace the Isuzu sensors with the ones for you new engine/transmission/computer. While this is not impossible, it can be time consuming and very expensive. This is especially true when the swap is relatively rare like in this case and you cannot just pick up a phone and order the parts.

    If it is power you want, and you already have a dead engine, then I would look at maybe a bore and stroke increase as well as some freer flowing heads. But then again, the options available for hopping up a new Trooper may be very limited.

    Just my amateur $.02. Use at your own discretion.
  • john303john303 Member Posts: 14
    Well, just completed the install of the rancho 9K's and Pirelli AT Scorpion's on My 94 S. With them set at "3" it really makes a world of difference in how the truck handles.

    My next upgrade is the install of a I & N filter. What I need to know is which one to buy. I know they have simple replacement filters and also an air box replacement too. I also need the part number for it if anyone got it.

    Next id' like to print the 5.25" rear speaker directions that where posted on the board some time back. I found the 4" install directions on isuzu-suv.com but I need to know particularly how to drill the holes in the rear pillars and how the speaker mounts so I can use the EM grills.

    Lastly, The wheels on my trooper look so stock. Its a 94 I with the stock steel wheels and shiny beauty guards. While i applaud its originality, i have to do something. Ive read in the past where folks were able to find the spoked wheels that came on later troopers. I was also thinking about a black "jackman" type spoked wheel. Do you guys have any links or places to find such wheels?

    PS: Im northern california outside of sacramento. Ive heard that there is a great isuzu truck wrecking yard in Folsom somewhere. Does anyone know the name or phone number of this wrecking yard.

    PPS: GO LAKERS.....
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If someone does post up the 5.25" instructions, if they e-mail em to me, I'll add them to isuzu-suvs.com

    -mike
  • atgepatgep Member Posts: 4
    I have one rim left from my 99 S model. I am asking $100 and I will pickup S&H cost. If you are interested please drop an line to gepfrich@mwr.is I have pictures avail upon request. Thanks for the time, Tom.
  • tommcnabbtommcnabb Member Posts: 15
    1. Realisically...What is the best way to get some more ground clearance for off-roading? Without voiding the warranty.
    2. What is the sand reputation of these?
    3. I have shift on the fly 4wd. After engaging, and running in 4wd, the front end whines (30 mph). Is this normal?

    Thanks
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is it on dry or wet pavement? You will hear a slight whine above 30mph with any part-time system.


    Easiest upgrade to get more lift is to get OME springs in the rear and crank your T-bars in the front. Also upgrade to OME or Rancho or Bilstein shocks.


    I've had my '97 on the beach in NC w/o a problem, and just had my trooper down in the sandy pine barrens of nj see http://isuzu-suvs.com for faqs, pics etc.


    -mike

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    paisan or anybody else,

    I've heard bits and pieces about a gasket problem, but I don't know much about it - how common is it? Which Troopers does it affect? When is the problem occurring? What are the symptoms?

    My 98 has 45k miles, which means 5k more on the bumper-to-bumper and 15k more on the powertrain warranty. I don't want to get stung just out of warranty on this gasket thing. I am not buying and do not plan to buy an extended warranty. In my opinion, an extended warranty on a vehicle like the newer Troopers is wasted money on insurance.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    But I think it effects the intake gasket. The symptoms are a surging idle and possible stalling at idle speed.

    -mike
  • sahara111sahara111 Member Posts: 51
    Paisan,

    Would the symptoms include pulling up to a stoplight and the engine just immediately dies?

    I've had this happen twice in 35000 miles on my '99: once last year and once this year so far. No other symptoms - no surging, no noise, just silence and 0 rpms. It immediately started back up with no problem both times.

    Let me know if you have more info.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sahara, I'd reckon to say that it isn't the gasket, since you don't have the surging. Could be a CPU problem. although 1x in a 1/2 year sound way out. If it started happening more consistently I'd say you could track it better.

    Anyone else out there have any info?

    -mike
  • gpm5gpm5 Member Posts: 785
    yeah, from what I read its surging to high rpm consistently at idle--not just a little wavering at warm-up and it happens on '99s and I suppose the 98 and 00 or 01 unless the new gasket material has cured the problem in the recent models. I have not had it on my '99.
  • john303john303 Member Posts: 14
    Hey, jiust installed the K & N filter and removed the OEM plastic/paper element. In the short time since the install ive noticed some improvement. But what specifically should i notice.

    Can anyone who's made this upgrade, post the particular improvements either published or arbitary.

    PS: Crutchfield has the Polk 501 on sale for $69 a set.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have it, didn't notice much difference. The only place I noticed it was over 3500rpms it did pull harder up there.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Come to the Isuzu Owner's Chat tonight, if you are an owner, or interested in buying one! 10pm-11pm EST this evening.


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    I got a new Yakima Rack from REI and installed it last weekend. The installation was fairly easy although it took me a couple hours to read the directions, put all the pieces together and get it mounted. I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I took my time and made sure I did everything right. Total cost for bars, Q-towers, clips, gunwale brackets, and fairing, was $292.00 (20% off sale)

    The rack sits on top of the roof using Q-towers and is clamped inside the door frames using metal clips protected with black vinyl tape. The Q-towers have a large foot with a thick (clear) silicone pad so I don't think it will ever mar the paint (as long as you clean the spot underneath it before you clamp it down.) When this thing is clamped down it's really solid. You can pull on it pretty hard and nothing moves. The directions (bar measurement spacings)call for the Q-towers to clamp down partially over the rubber strips on the roof, and partially over the rounded edge of the roof. It seems kind of an odd place but the towers adjust to the uneven surface and fit very snug.

    Once I had the bars and towers assembled and installed I put on a fairing and a set of gunwale brackets (for hauling a canoe, ladders etc.) The gunwale brackets are flexible and just slip on the bar from the top. Then you put a bolt through the bottom of each and they're on. The fairing took about 15 minutes to put together and install on the front cross bar. I also installed lock cores. To put them in you just pry the small plastic covers out of the lock core holes in the towers - then insert the cores. They supply a special key to help you insert and remove the lock cores. As you add accessories to your rack you can add more locks that will all work with the same key.

    Once I had it all together I took it off and put it back on to see how hard it was. Took less than 5 minutes to unclamp the towers, take it off, then put it back on. It mounted just as securely. I used the maximum spacing so my front bar is at the front of the front door frame, and the back bar is all the way at the back of the back door frame. Wide spacings work best when hauling long stuff like a 16 ft canoe.

    I only keep the rack on when I need to haul something and store it in the garage the rest of the time. It cuts down on wind resistance and makes it easier to wash / wax etc. Best of all you can haul some serious stuff on this rack. It's rated at 165 pounds and Yakima has every conceivable accessory to haul just about anything. Their racks are very strong and functional and they aren't hard to look at either. I wasn't thrilled initially about the thought of a door frame clip mount but after seeing how it works I think it's a good system if you don't have raingutters to mount to. I think the optimal system for a Trooper would be a set of roof rails / tracks with adjustable (removable and sliding) Yakima towers that would work with all the Yakima accessories.

    Will probably add a storage box sometime in the future. I like the Packasports but will probably go with a Yakima or Thule to save some money.
  • johnny_ringojohnny_ringo Member Posts: 30
    Radman - I went the Thule route and found the same results. Easy install and a very solid rack. I have the moon roof so I position the rack as far back as possible while still maintaining at least a 27" spread. I haul skis and bikes so I don't need the long spread for the canoe. The rack ends up mounting over the rear doors and leaving 75% of my vertical view clear.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Once a year or so, it helps to treat the weather stripping with armor all. This keeps it 100% water tight. You may notice 1 or 2 drips on really rainy days and you are parked. Armor all and that should go away.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Hey guys, we only need 1 more person to go ahead with a group buy of the Nudge bars. Check em out at http://isuzu-suvs.com/nudge.html


    -mike

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