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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories

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Comments

  • crunchycrunchy Posts: 26
    RE: Rear speakers

    Mike, I'm not talking about replacing the little 4" speakers that are in the rear posts -- I'm talking about cutting holes in the rear passenger doors (not the tailgate doors) and adding 6.5" rounds. I was wondering if anyone here has ever done that. But I do like your website :)

    Sue
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sue,
    Yeah I caught what you were saying about the pass doors. I know some people have but in 5.5" speakers in the rear pillars using the directions. I don't know of anyone who has done rear pass door speakers, but if you do do it, take pics and let us know!

    -mike
  • nighter50nighter50 Posts: 127
    duktrooper - was your 97 trooper leased through Isuzu Motor Acceptance Corp? If so, how are they on "wear and tear" charges? My lease is up in a few months - I am over on mileage for which i know i will have to pay. No major damage - a small door ding (no paint chipped) and few small paint scratches...what am I in for?

    Thanks in advance!
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I am intrigued by the idea of the Axiom engine management chip in the Trooper....the extra 15 hp would compensate nicely for the power loss from bigger tires...$500 is a little steep right now, but people have paid more for less gain than that.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure that will work, but all the documents I read the difference in driveline is the CPU. Did you actually price out the PC @ $500?

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    No, I got that $500 number from some guy named "paisan" (Post #535)...
    ;-)
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!

    that was a WAG!

    -mike

    ps:who is this paisan guy?
  • jeff_vjeff_v Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Isuzu Trooper EL. The passenger-side front speakers (I believe both the one in the door and the one by the mirror) occasionally cut out. Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone know of a fix? Is it in the wiring or the head unit?

    Also, I am interested in adding keyless remote to this vehicle. The vehicle came with a security system, but no keyless entry. Has anyone added this feature, integrating it with the original equipment security system? If so, what components were necessary? Any suggestions on brands, etc. and places to look?

    Thanks.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    No, I got that $500 number from some guy named "paisan" (Post #535)...
    ;-)
  • Lease turn in

    I had no problem with lease turn in. Isuzu turned my lease over to GECAL, which is pretty common. They did charge me for mileage but nothing on minor dents and dings. In fact, I snuck one over on them as they failed to notice a dent behind the spare tire mounted on rear door. You guessed...some one popped me in parking lot.

    GECAL offered me an unbelievable price to buy, but I wanted to go ahead and get a '99. Anyway, make sure once they take it away, they assume all responsibility in transporting it. That way, they can't come back on you for damage they didn't catch upon final inspection. HTH.
  • tomm12tomm12 Posts: 1
    Hi atgep I have a 99S and I would be interested in one of the wheels you have for sale. I would like one with the large center cap. You can get back to me at odell4nc@gateway.net
  • radman6radman6 Posts: 81
    Jeff Y. Speakers cutting out? It's probably the speaker connections (in the door)that are vibrating loose and causing it to cut out. That's what I would check first. It's also the easiest thing to troubleshoot. Just pry off the speaker grill, remove the screws, pull the speaker out, and turn on the stereo while wiggling the connection to see if it cuts out. If it does cut out you've found your problem. You can push the connector back on tight to fix the problem. You may even have to take the plug apart, recrimp the connector, then put it back together.

    If not the connector, it's somewhere in the head unit, harness or wiring - all much more difficult to troubleshoot. Good luck!
  • cd1000cd1000 Posts: 16
    I got a good deal on a class 3 hidden hitch from truckaddons.com Pd. $165 for hitch, wiring, receiver, and ball. That price includes shipping. I also checked with trailerhitch.com and they carry their own brand--no Reese or Hidden-- and their price was $145 with no wiring(didn't even have it in stock other than spliceable) or receiver and ball. Chris
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Rear Bar Pics...



    image


    image



    This is in the closest to the vehicle setting. I now have it in the outter setting which puts it about 1" further from the car.


    -mike

  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Mike,

    That rear bar really looks good. I'd like to get one, but I might have to do some convincing at home. Can you email me the guy's address, email, and telephone. You say it is $150 right. I could also pick it up depending on shipping charges. Thanks.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    GPM,

       You can bill it as additional rear-end collision protection. Also if you think about it, $250 for the spare tire cover alone would make the $150 worth it. Yeah he is in Brooklyn so a pickup is doable. Also was gonna ask you if you wanted to do some light 4wheeling over the summer. Some of the 4x4 guys are planning a trip to Uwharrie, NC for a 3 day weekend July 19-22 IIRC. If you decide to come to that, Matt could bring it along. You can contact Matt at http://independent4x.com


    -mike

  • fourwd1fourwd1 Posts: 11
    REF # 579

    A friend has the same problem w/his '94 Trooper. The problem is in the head unit on his truck.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Paisan's rear bar:

    The $150 is well worth it. Even when offroading, I've worried about backing into a tree on narrow trails that I've turned around on. I'll be making a trip to Long Island-Stony Brook (beginning of June) and could pick it up. How far from the corners of the bumper is yours? Yeah some light offroading this summer sounds good. I normally don't do anything that serious but occasionally do worry about getting stuck without someone else. Usually, I just take a drive, see a forest trail or what not and go do some investigating. Sometimes you need to check out the signs for who is allowed where though.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The bar ends at the edges of the doors, and has a 45degree corner which lines up with the bumper edges. It could probably be about 6" wider and come to the edges of the bumpers, although the way it stands if they are gonna scrape the corner, they'll hit the metal first.

    As for the off-roading trip, it's down in western NC. The guys from Planet Isuzoo are gonna be camping/off-roading for 2 or 3 days in July. The nice part is that some are hardcore off-roaders, and some aren't (like myself) everyone goes together, and there are bypasses for those of us who don't want to wreck our trucks :) And there is always winches and tow-straps, etc. etc. As it gets closer, I'll be posting details in the Events area.

    -mike
  • Trooper shocks for mainly on-road driving.

    All, I've been following the discussions here for quite a while, very informative, Thanks!

    My question: is there any consensus for which aftermarket shocks help reduce body roll and front-end dip for a Troop that spends most of it's life tooling around town? I have a 95 LS 4WD that used to be mine, now it's my wife's and is used mostly for hauling our 2 kids around and 2-3 trips to Tahoe a year.

    Thanks in advance!

    Matt
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    The Rancho 9000s are nice cause you can adjust them to just the amount of comfort/stiffness you want, even if you set it once and leave it. For on-road I've heard good things about the Monroe Sensatracs. As for body roll, shocks won't change that. You should look at getting the calmini sway bars if you want to stop body roll.


    -mike

    http://isuzu-suvs.com

  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    I'll probably pass on the NC trip, although that sounds like fun. I was planning on going to VT/NH in July and will probably be busy with that.
  • sahara111sahara111 Posts: 51
    SDC2:

    The part number is SWA 1549 (at the time I ordered it). I bought them thru 4 Wheel Parts, total was $214.70 for the set, that was almost a year ago.

    The bars are marked Left and Right; you might be able to do the install yourself - you need to lift the vehicle and it would be nice to have some air tools available. Looks like they charged me $25 per bar for the install, so I think it was worth it.

    Good luck.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Hey all. Here is a link to the rear bar protector.


    http://independent4x.com/item.html?PRID=846484


    Matt has it on sale for $129, so get em while they are hot. :)


    -mike

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I updated a number of items on the pages. Also setup a page for the Next ECB Nudge Bar Group Buy.

    -mike
  • nighter50nighter50 Posts: 127
    thanks for the info...i may have more questions for you. Lease is up in a couple months.
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I am seriously considering this mod.
  • cd1000cd1000 Posts: 16
    Paisan,
    Are you happy with your rack? Is it sturdy and have you found anything you don't like about it? I am looking at the one at overlander and one by Surco for about the same price. Thanks, Chris
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I don't have a rack yet. I like the looks of John Warren's rack I think he is DUxxxxx on here. I've found that I haven't had a need for one yet.

    -mike
  • crunchycrunchy Posts: 26
    Anybody put a subwoofer in their Troooper yet? I was thinking that a few 8-inchers might fit in the cubby under the back seats. I haven't found any manufacturers with a pre-made stealth box for the Trooper yet.

    Sue
This discussion has been closed.