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Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories



  • Sue I am interested. How much do you want for it? Send me an e-mail.
  • jbkennedyjbkennedy Posts: 70
    I just spoke with a U-Haul dealer in Houston about installing a Class III hitch for my 2001 Rodeo with the spare tire mounted underneath. They are having a special - $119.95 installed. I think that is a very good price! I believe that their supplier is Hidden Hitch.
  • centralcentral Posts: 51
    Now that you have had it on a while, do you have any further feedback? For example, does it tend to rattle at the receiver? Does the width still seem correct or do you wish you had a slightly wider unit? What about the mounting height? Looking at the pictures it almost seems like it is slightly too low so it keeps cars from going low into the bumper rather than stopping other SUVS from going high into the spare. Then again pictures can be somewhat deceiving.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    It's mostly to stop cars from hitting the tire/bumper. The top of the bar is parralell with the step notch of the rear bumper so you can stand on it and bridge the gap. No rattling at all in the reciever. I believ GPM order a 60" wide bar that sticks out a little further than mine. Mine is only 54" wide. If an excursion wants to push your tire, there is just about nothing that's gonna stop him.

    I can't complain though for $129 it's a good value. If I were ordering again I'd go with the 60" one probably. Other than that, it's great. Took it to the car wash and the paint is better than the paint on my car!


  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Matt is making up the 60" at 11" from the pin hole to the outside of the bar this week--that should be ~7 inches from the back of the bumper to the outside of the bar. I have the hidden hitch on my trooper. The bar should provide great protection. I'll let you know how it does.
  • centralcentral Posts: 51
    At one point I believe you asked if the WAG unit would work with a hitch. As
    we are now the proud owners of a second Trooper, with a previously installed a
    hitch, I now have your answer. No, at least the hitch on our 2nd Trooper uses
    the same mounting points as the WAG on our first Trooper.

    Also, for what it is worth, did you give any thought to having your revised guard
    "wrap" around the sides for maybe 1' or so? This side area always seems to
    collect parking lot dents on our cars.

    In addition, my other wild idea is to have a custom adapter so that the guard
    could be raised when off roading. As it is the guard would seem likely to hang up
    on many a drop off. Granted the guard could be removed off road but then the
    advantage of having a rear guard would be lost . The adapter would have a male
    piece on the bottom to plug into the hitch. The top would be a standard female
    hitch receiver with the height set to just below the spare. When you want to go
    off roading you would unplug the guard. You would then plug in the adapter. Next
    you would just plug the bumper guard into the newer, higher location.
  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Good to know on the waag. I also thought about wrap arounds. A guy clipped my corner in a parking lot but came from behind. I'm pretty sure at 60 " and 7 inches out the bar would have got him and made him turn away.

    Matt at independent 4x will also do a custom bumper guard somehow mounted to the truck--he told me. I'm not sure how--or whether he just figures he would weld it on. I like hitch guard idea though.

    The adapter (basically a receiver extension elbowed up) would work fine. I'm sure matt can put that together no problem.

    Anyone want to mount lights on it?--they could plug right in at the harness.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yeah my and matt's original idea is that you would not use it when off-roading, since anything coming out of the hitch receiver is going to hang you up. I though about mounting extra lights on it and plugging into the wiring of the hitch harness too. Just haven't gotten around to it yet.

    Cool thing about matt is that he makes up each bar individually, so the custom things you guys want he can easily adapt for you. WAAG claims that it doesn't interfere with hitchs but who knows. Matt was also telling me about the bolt-on rear bar, he basically said he would engineer it to bolt into the spots where the hitch would have bolted to.

  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    Yes, at 7 inches out it could hit at a sharp approach angle but would also protect the tail pipe and the mud flaps from dragging. I was thinking that it could be used as a jacking point offroad. Of course protecting against backing into a tree on a tight forest trail is a big plus. Having the elbow would improve the angle.
  • cd1000cd1000 Posts: 16
    Does anyone know the distance between the factory drilled holes. I am installing a surco safari rack and just put it together. I have not peeled back the rubber strip yet(tomorrow) and was wondering if anyone knew the distance between the holes. Thanks--
  • crunchycrunchy Posts: 26
    To KeepOnTroopin: did you ever get my email?

    If anyone else is interested, I still have a brand new in the shrink wrap in-dash 6 CD changer for sale. Dealer price is $500, so make me an offer.

    Also, I need to sell my brand new Husky bed liner because the subwoofer box is in the way of it. They go for about $70 at (I bought mine locally), so make me an offer. In a few days I'll try Ebay if I don't have any responses here. Check out pics of it at


  • centralcentral Posts: 51
    These shocks do seem to make quite an improvement.

    If you plan on doing the installation yourself be sure and eat your Wheaties first as the bolts you need to remove are installed very firmly. The front shocks are not that bad as you can turn the tires to get at the bolts with a breaker bar and extensions. The rears are another story. The bottom nuts on the rear are quite easy to reach. The top bolts are a real pain especially the driver's side which is guarded by the muffler. I put a socket attached to a breaker bar on the bolt. On the nut I used a box end wrench (there is no room for a socket on this side) with a pipe as a cheater in order to break the nuts loose. I wouldn't even think of trying to do this with an open ended let alone a crescent style wrench.

    Again this is not rocket science but if you don't have some good box end wrenches, sockets, extensions and cheater bars I recommend you think twice before changing shocks yourself.
  • pogofxpogofx Posts: 6
    I've seen some discussion about using and Axiom EMU in a Trooper to get the extra horsepower. I too have thought about this. From what I can determine (from talking to dealers - but what do they know) that the only difference is software to get the HI gain.

    Something to consider: From what I understand, please correct me if I'm wrong, is that the 00 Trooper is drive-by-wire while the 99 Trooper isn't. I would assume that the Axiom has the same drive-by-wire system. The EMU upgrade would then most likely lend itself to 00 and above Troopers.

    I have a small amount of experience in this area. I chipped my Jetty 1.8T (which is also drive-by-wire) with excellent results. HI up from 150 to 193. These results are more easily attained with turbocharged engines than normally aspirate engines. In my case the engine was designed to produce this HI (by Audio) but was detuned through the ECU that VW put in. Also of note is that the chip programming is different for the same engine that is not drive-by-wire.

    I aslo had the chip put on a socket which allows me to swap the stock chip back in easily.

    Does anyone know about aftermarket chips? I've found two companies that their website claims they make Trooper chips. The companies are Pro-Tech Transmissions and Finish Line Performance. Any experience?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Yes '00-'01 Troopers and Axioms are both drive-by-wire. My Isuzu salesman, who's also a mechanic and a good friend said it may not be as easy as swapping the black box ECU under the hood. He said the headers could also result in the increased horsepower and or the cams. Also the increased HP may reduce the torque curve giving higher peak HP, but a sharper torque curve. Just some thoughts. If you did swap the ECU, I'd keep the original Trooper one for warranty and state emissions testing purposes (with ODBCII the state computer knows what car it's testing)

  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    central, thanks for the heads up.
  • centralcentral Posts: 51
    I have had a change of opinion about a hitch mounted guard. I asked a welding capable friend about such a design and his first question to me was "Where is the gas tank? I told him directly in front of the hitch and then the light bulb went on. In anything over a low speed collision the bar could be driven forward and the receiver could torpedo directly into the gas tank with potentially dire consequences. While this could theoretically happen in any trailer collision, I doubt the energy transfer would be as direct and concentrated as with such a guard. Therefore I am now planning on removing my hitch and going with a guard which mounts to the frame on the outside of the gas tank (i.e. where my hitch presently mounts). Granted this could be an over reaction on my part, but I think it is the way to go for me to sleep at night. I encourage you to consider this situation carefully and when in doubt err on the side of safety.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Central, I'm not sure what kind of hitch you have on your truck, but mine has a solid steel plate at the back end of the hitch receiver. If the tounge were to get pushed into it, it could not go past the end of the hitch back. The other thing is that with a trailer hitch on the car, any energy that goes into the hitch either via a 5000lb trailer pushing against it, or a 2500lb car will actually transmitt the energy around the gas tank to the 2 frame rails via the hitch and bolts. If you don't have the hitch and bar, a car will smack right into the rear skid plate pushing it into the tank if anything. As I understand it, and I've spoken to a lot of hitch and welders, the weakest point in the system is going to be the bolts that hold the hitch to the frame. They will bend before anything else. the next item will be the welds in the T-bar, then the welds in the hitch itself. In fact on the Excursion the rear hitch and a bar below the front bumper are specifically there to transfer energy to the frame rails. If you take your hitch off, maybe someone on here would like to buy it from you though! :)

  • gpm5gpm5 Posts: 785
    That's right. On the hidden hitch there is a welded steel plate on the back of the receiver. I suppose if the pin broke, and if the bar came through the welded plate on the back of the receiver, and if it continued through the gas tank skid plate, continued on a straight course, and hit the actual steel gas tank, it could enter or put a 3 inch dent in the bottom edge of the tank. Is it possible, maybe, but an asteroid could also hit our planet. I have seen solid steel bumpers take collisions and side collisions and the bolts and the attachment points almost always bend. The same would be true here. With any twist the bar is likely to bend at the T weld point and under that scenario the free end might penetrate the radiator of the oncoming vehicle. An extra collar welded to the bar could prevent it from moving inward, providing a fourth layer of protection. I might ask Matt about that.
  • cd1000cd1000 Posts: 16
    I installed a Surco Safari rack on my 01 LS. Installed the 50x50 and it comes to the back of the moonroof. Had to adjust one of the crossbars because of factory holes but it was no big deal. All websites including Overlander say the only one for trooper is 50x60 but if you have a moonroof you do not want that one because all of that extra ten inches will be over the moonroof. Very sturdy and the rubber stripping pops up easily and went back down with a little customization. The Trooper brackets for the rack work well. I will post a pic soon. Chris
  • centralcentral Posts: 51
    I readily agree this is probably an over reaction on my part. But I have yet to ever use a trailer hitch (the used car came with one). Therefore for me it is a matter or why take even a very, very, slim chance? And as Paisan pointed out, I can maybe sell the hitch and use that money to pay for part of the price of a frame mounted rear guard.
This discussion has been closed.