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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Its 2001xi wagon,has 63000mls. since i bought my Suzuki Xl7 this car has been mostly a standby car, maybe driven once a week. just did somework last summer cost me a lot mostly maintenace and Inspction II. thats were they had to replce the rear springs, both of them. i just hope its nothing seruis like the fuel pump. im gonna use tommorow afternoon. hope it will run smoothly. battery was repl. too. let you know tomorrow.
  • I have a 2005 325ci with 46,000 miles. My warranty period ends at 50,000 or in May of 2009. I absolutely love my car and plan on keeping for at least another 2-3 years. I am wondering if I should buy warranties for either a maintenance or a mechanical breakdown or both. I am the second owner and have owned the car for 2 years with no problems except for a coolant lea which was fixed under warranty.. My bmw dealer has quoted me $1695 for a 2yr maintenance warranty and $2500 for a 2 year mechanical breakdown. Are these type of warranties worth investing in. If so, what is a good purchase price on either warranty. Thank you :-)
  • jscholderjscholder Posts: 24
    Seems like I touched a real sensitive nerve here. It also seems that Mr. Shipo should be a lobbyist for the BMW dealers out there with his claims that they are the best place to do work on your car, and all parts should be original BMW parts.

    I have been screwed so many times by BMW dealers that if I was a prostitute I could be a billionaire by now. The worst part is, the dealers treat me with the same haughty attitude that Mr. Shipo does because I don't have a new car that's under warranty.

    Mr. Shipo's advice is no different than the advice financial wizards, stock analysts, and stockbrokers have been giving their clients regarding stocks and the stock market being sound....BMW has perpetuated the myth so long that you actually believe that they are not that more expensive to operate than other marques,(whatever that means).

    As for being poor: I have spent $2500 in the past year on my 740i, and none of it was spent at the dealer or it would be double that amount...and for your information none of the repairs was related to poor maintenance practices or oil and filter changes. I drive a 2001 bought with 62,000 miles on it in Oct. '05 and that was the only way I could get into "your class of driving enthusiasts". Buying a new BMW, and spending the kind of money that is required, is "in my opinion" not getting the best value for your purchase. I have plenty of examples to back that up. Buying used at 1/4 of the original sales price because someone rich wanted to dispose of their old junk makes more sense to me. Paying for the eventual repairs and maintenance is much cheaper than losing 3/4 of the value of a new car in just 4 years. Finding a competent, reliable repair shop that treats you like a valued customer is much more preferable than being abused by a BMW dealer---unless of course you bought the car new from them and do not argue over paying excessive and outrageous costs for repairs and parts.

    All automobile manufacturers want you to deal exclusively with their shops and order only their parts. That's where they make most of their profits.

    The "trivial thing" I was referring to was your reference to; how trivial it is to subject yourself to doing an oil change when it only saves you $50.00.

    At 139,000 miles I have had no engine problems, unless you count blown radiator hoses, power steering leaks, coolant leaks, water pump leaks, valve cover leaks, broken thermostat assembly, vacum valves, and window regulator failures.

    And finally, you could have just sucked it up and said you didn't know the answer to my initial question regarding the trunk latch issue instead of attacking my credibility over the cost of an oil change. Man...you guys need to lighten up alittle.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    It also seems that Mr. Shipo should be a lobbyist for the BMW dealers out there with his claims that they are the best place to do work on your car, and all parts should be original BMW parts.

    Please point me to even one instance where I recommended BMW service or BMW only parts? Please understand that recommending oil the meets or exceeds the BMW LL-01 oil specification in no way means BMW oil. The difference here is that there are a number of oil providers that sell oil that meet the spec but have no relationship with BMW. FWIW, the two most popular here in the States are Mobil 1 0W-40 and Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

    I have been screwed so many times by BMW dealers that if I was a prostitute I could be a billionaire by now. The worst part is, the dealers treat me with the same haughty attitude that Mr. Shipo does because I don't have a new car that's under warranty.

    How is it my fault that you allowed yourself to be repeatedly screwed by BMW dealers? All I have done is recommend good sound advice with regard to your comments about your failure to properly maintain your cars.

    Mr. Shipo's advice is no different than the advice financial wizards, stock analysts, and stockbrokers have been giving their clients regarding stocks and the stock market being sound....BMW has perpetuated the myth so long that you actually believe that they are not that more expensive to operate than other marques,(whatever that means).

    Now you're getting personal and I must take exception to your comments. If you cannot accept that the things you've posted are patently incorrect, and that others have attempted help you out by pointing out where you are incorrect, that's one thing, but to launch a personl attack? Sorry dude, you lost me.

    And finally, you could have just sucked it up and said you didn't know the answer to my initial question regarding the trunk latch issue instead of attacking my credibility over the cost of an oil change. Man...you guys need to lighten up alittle.

    Regarding your initial question, I didn't respond to it because I didn't have an answer to it. Had you let it go at that, there wouldn't have been an issue, however, you then followed up that post with a worthless boasting comment about $90 being a bad price for an oil change and that you can do it for $35 (something that I've shown is pretty much impossible). Lest you forget what you wrote, let me refresh your memory: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea1744/4150
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    Oh well you're changing the argument. You bought a 7 series. You should have done research on that model and that might have warned you that this is not a 3 series car.

    Anyone buying a 7 series, new or used, had better be very well to do. It's an extremely expensive car to maintain, whether you go to a dealer or not. Some independent BMW shops won't even work on 7 series cars.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    I wouldn't buy an extended warranty for your car. If you have an honest dealer or independent shop there is no way you will spend $1695 for scheduled maintenance over two years- ditto for $2500 worth of repairs.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • brenda14brenda14 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 325 xi. I purchased it in Aug 0f 06 and now have 49, 238 miles on it. As you can tell I do a lot of driving. I have AWD and it handles nicely in the snow, ice, rain--I am in the N with plenty of snow. My question is also about Maint --quote $1695 and ESC $2975. I have not had any problems with the car. I am wondering will things go as well in the future and can my local mechanic do the maintenance and repairs, or should I purchase the ESC or Maint. I am not good with cars at all and need dependability. Thanks for your help.
  • berny1berny1 Posts: 9
    Hi everyone!

    I have a 2005 330i with a performance pkg and 40K miles on it. I have not had any major problems with the car and would like to keep it for at least another 2-3 yrs. My warranty expires this May and I've been looking into getting an extended warranty.

    BMW extended warranty for 2 yrs is ~ 2600 and for 4 is ~3500, can anyone comment on were to get a better deal?, is this price negotiable?, is it a must getting the extended warranty?

    Thanks :confuse:
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    I have a 2005 330i with a performance pkg and 40K miles on it. I have not had any major problems with the car and would like to keep it for at least another 2-3 yrs. My warranty expires this May and I've been looking into getting an extended warranty.

    Stick your money in a CD or Money Market account and self-insure it. There's almost no way an E46 will need $3500 worth of repairs over the next 4 years/60,000 miles.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • blueguydotcomblueguydotcom Posts: 6,257
    Agreed. And love that ZHP. I miss mine dearly.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    And love that ZHP. I miss mine dearly.

    I keep hoping a nice low mileage ZHP sedan will turn up in my area. If it does the Mazdaspeed is history... :D :D :D

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Does anybody have a picture of where's to connect the code reader under the dash? im not sure what it looks like. thanks!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    It should be located in the left under-dash area:

    image

    The port should look something like this.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Just got hold of the OBDII scan tool to check whats the prob. with my 325xi wagon. It reads, P1345 misfire cylinder 2 with fuel cut-off. does anybody knows if this is a serious one that need immediate action? can i still use the car for now? any imputs will much be appreciated. many thanks!
  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    many thanks! I was able to locate and performed the task. just need to know if the code P1345 or misfire cylinder 2 with fuel cut-off, will cost me an arm and a leg!

    Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    Well it means you have a 5 cylinder car most or all of the time. This could be a spark plug defect, or wiring, or ignition coil that is causing that cylinder to misfire. The computer, sensing this, shuts off fuel to that injector.

    Also one always has to be suspicious of bad valve lifters on 3-series, but you didn't specify year. If the car runs rough and then runs better when warmed up, I'd look more closely for a bad lifter as well as the usual ignition component failures that I mentioned.

    MODERATOR

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Itsa 2001 325xi wagon with 63000mls.did some major work last year incl. spark plug and fuel filter change. now the car is mostly driven may be once a week. last week after the storm that hit NY i decided to use on thursday, when suddenly the car just died after i started it. the second try the car did start and drove it with the Service Engine Soon lit. i thought its bec. its cold and needs to be wrmed up. everynow and then, i try to just start the car without moving so it wont be idle.i hope its just a bad gas that precipitated this issue. Thanks again.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    If you are starting the car and running it without driving it I'd suspect that you have a fouled plug. Try driving the car for 20-50 miles, clear the code, and see if the CEL returns.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Yes, i will do that today. im going for a dental appointment. wish me luck! ill let you know . will keep in touch. thanks.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I would pull the plug on the affected cylinder (#2?) and see what it looks like.

    Is it fouled? Is it wet with oil or gas?

    It's also possible you have a bad plug wire.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    The six cylinders from 1992 forward use a coil-on-plug ignition system. That said, it could be a bad coil.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    I drove the car for a dentist appnt. so far no problem with the car and the light on the panel just cleared. im trying to feel the engine for any sudden changes in power with re. to accelaretion, idling and noise from the engine. im waiting for a call from my mechanic and let him know the situation. we might have to check all the igniton component. he just repl. the sparkplug last year at 60000. i know the repl. should have been atleast 100000. dont know if i did the right thing by replacing them early. oh well.. well see whats his imput about the misfire.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    i know the repl. should have been atleast 100000. dont know if i did the right thing by replacing them early.

    What causes the plugs to foul is starting the car, letting it idle for a few minutes, and shutting it off. If the ignition system is good the problem should not reappear as long as the car is driven long enough to let it reach operating temperature.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • uncletouncleto Posts: 45
    Does anybody knows whats P1345 on the fault code means? im using a generic OBD11, that i borrowed. dont know if the same thing that the PEAKE TOOLS generates. thanks again!
  • kominskykominsky Posts: 850
    according to Bentley, P1345 is "Misfire Cylinder 2 with Fuel Cut-Off"
  • rob140rob140 Posts: 13
    when do I have to change the belt or chain? It doesn't say in owners manual.

    Rob
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,468
    There's no maintenance interval on the timing chain. They rarely need to be replaced before 175,000 miles- if then.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • only have 8K to spend. opportunity to buy 323i wagon 2000 with 87,000 miles for 8K he is firm. I will be putting 25K mi/yr. highway salesman. I would need this car to last many many miles more. I am worried about cost for repairs. Or do I go for Honda or Toyota?
    Please I need your opinion on what to buy. This economic turn got the best of me.Thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,715
    You can get a pretty nice Corolla with many fewer miles for $8k. Gas, insurance, and repair costs will be lower also. If you are worried about $ for repairs and only have $8k to spend on a car, I am betting other costs are important to you also.
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