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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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  • r34r34 Posts: 178
    Someone told me:

    "When replacing tires on a TPMS equipped vehicle, it is recommended to replace the components of the sensor that are susceptible to wear and corrosion from the elements."

    I need to buy 4 NON-RUN FLAT tires for my 2007 335xi sedan. Do I need to buy the TPMS Rebuild Kits?

    Thanks.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    No. I'm not sure where this recommendation originated, but it is not at all necessary as there are no "elements" inside your tires that will cause any wear or corrosion. FWIW, the first car we bought with TPMS is now seven and a half years old and has north of 150,000 miles on it; it still has the original factory TPMS sensors and the still operate perfectly well. :)

    By the way, around here we've kind of settled on calling tires either RFTs for "Run Flat Tires" and GFTs for "Gets Flat Tires". :)
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    I am not aware of any components in the TPMS that are susceptible to wear and corrosion.

    However, on the direct TPMS, there is a small lithium battery that's part of the sensor in each wheel. Obviously this battery has a finite life though it should last between 5 and 10 years in a typical vehicle. So, if you're replacing the OEM (?) tires after 3 years, and you get 3 to 4 years of life out of your new set, you'll be right in the middle of the expected end of battery life range when it's time to replace the tires again. That might be the right time to replace the sensors.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,573
    edited October 2010
    The only thing I can think of are the neoprene/rubber gaskets that seal the TPMS valve stem to the wheel. That's about the only thing that can go "bad".

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Think NOT!! lol
  • Just purchased a new 2011 convertible about 2 months ago. Loving the car except for 1 annoying rattle that has cropped up. It seems to be coming from the rear passenger side. To me it almost sounds like glass from the rear window vibrating... it is only audible when the road surface is not smooth.

    Anyway just wanted to see if any other convertible owners had a similar issue and what if any was the resolution? I have made an appointment at the dealer for next week but having second thoughts about letting them go on an expedition trying to find the rattle and inadvertently make things worse. Wondering if I should just wait it out to see if it will go away by itself since the car only has 1700 or so miles on it now.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks,
    TJ
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,032
    You could help the dealer reach a successful conclusion by getting someone in the bad seat to help you track it down---they could even use a little hose to plug into their ear as they work along the suspected areas.

    Dealers often fail to find rattles because it is very time-consuming and they give up pretty quickly on it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jkl99jkl99 Posts: 11
    The same issue happened with my 2006 330i just two days ago. Originally, the driver door cannot be opened and other 3 doors won't be locked. I manually locked other 3 doors, then the driver door can be opened but not other 3 doors. None of the doors response to the central lock button or the lock/unlock buttons on the remote. I have to use key to open the driver door in order to drive the car and cannot have any passengers unless they want to crawl to their seats throught the driver seat.

    Searching through the website and found this issue was mentioned in BMW Service Information bulletin at http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B511907g.htm. According to this document, it seems like one of the fuse need to be replaced. Spent a lot of time to search for where to find the fuse box of my 330i and how to replace the blown fuse. Finally find the blown fuse and replace it with a spare one in the fuse box - per the bulltin, the blown 15A should be replaced with 20A, but cannot find spare 20A. After the fuse replaced, none of the buttons worked and felt frustrated and didn't sleep well that night - wondering how to reset the system and calculating how much money will be spent to fix this issue in dealer. Make a two days' later appointment the second day morning.

    During the day at work, keep searching the way to reset the door locks system and my remote - did find something how to pair your remote with car. I gave it a try after the work by keep pressing the door opening button till all windows rolled down together. At the same time, I saw all the doors unlocked as well. Wow, the door locks got reset and the issue fixed. I cannot believe the issue was fixed without paying the visit to dealer. By the way, I slept well last night.
  • Another thing you might try is changing the battery in your remote. I have a 2006 330i too and just this year I started having issues with the doors not locking/unlocking. Sometimes it would work and other times it didn't. But once I changed the battery I haven't had any problems since.
  • rhmassrhmass Posts: 263
    Where did you get the battery replacement for the key? One of my two keys has problem not locking all doors when pushed, but can open all doors. May be changing the battery will fix it. Do I need to go to the dealer for the battery? What is the approximate price? TIA
  • rflrfl Posts: 100
    Leaving my 2011 328 convertible (with Comfort Access) in my garage for 1 month in February. Temperature should not go below 40 degrees during that time. Does anyone think it is necessary to put a trickle charger on the battery to prevent a discharge?
  • I can't remember where I got it exactly....somewhere like a drugstore that has watch batteries - CVS, RiteAid. I checked at the dealer and they wanted something like $13-$14. I ended up paying around $6 at the drugstore. Hope it works for you!
  • I don't think my issue is a blown fuse since it only affected the driver's side door.
    I can still use the remote to lock all doors and unlock 3 out of 4 doors.
    Central lock works also. Just driver's side door won't respond to remote unlock.
    I am using key to manually unlock, no big deal.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,573
    edited November 2010
    Will it unlock when you hit the lock/unlock button from inside the car? If not, it sounds like a bad actuator.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Hi to everyone! Just want to know any autobody repair shop that you know that i can bring my 3 series for work. my wife just hit a dear and it needs some hopefully not a major front job. if my rates will go up. i might just pay out of pocket. other wise just pay the deductible of $500. I live in Monroe, NY 10950. any recommendation will be much appreiciated. Many thanks!
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,658
    An amazing body shop south of you in Rockland County. The name of the place is Eurotech. They do all the body work for the "Prestige" luxury dealers on route 17 in NJ. Your wife's car will be better than new. Wide World BMW also has an excellent body shop, but they are not cheap.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • In the 335i sedan (2009), has anyone measured the road clearance in order to purchase a hydraulic jack? It seems to be about 5 1/8" which means a low profile jack should squeeze under the car. Any thoughts or suggestions? With my thanks!
  • Im bringing the car for the adjuster to see tomorrow, and im pretty sure it will be in the range of $3000. Hoping the fan, condenser etc... inside the hood components are ok. Cant open the hood thats why not sure how much more. there is no leaking so im assured that the radiator is ok. Thinking of doing out of pocket but since i cant see the inside of the hood, i think im better of letting the insurance cover it. Just bite the bullet when it comes to my rates going up! By the way, did you use Eurotech before?
  • Im bringing the car for the adjuster to see tomorrow, and im pretty sure it will be in the range of $3000. Hoping the fan, condenser etc... inside the hood components are ok. Cant open the hood thats why not sure how much more. there is no leaking so im assured that the radiator is ok. Thinking of doing out of pocket but since i cant see the inside of the hood, i think im better of letting the insurance cover it. Just bite the bullet when it comes to my rates going up! By the way, did you use Eurotech before? Do you know the exact address? is that the one in Englewood? Many Thanks!
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,658
    I've actually used him to fix my '01 Prelude once. My best friend has used him numerous times. He's the guy that the BMW/Benz/Lexus... Dealers bring their cars to when the lot jockeys smash them up. The guy is a perfectionist.

    Wide World BMW has a fantastic body shop too. They've fixed my parents former BMWs perfectly to factory condition. They also leave no stone unturned.

    Don't let your insurance company bully you into using their body shop.

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

  • what do you need a jack for with run-flats? :P

    but seriously, any standard jack should fit.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    When it comes to A) tire rotations and B) seasonal tire changes, a hydraulic floor jack makes the job go considerably faster. :)
  • Correct. While my 335i has different size front and rears (hence no tire rotation), I have winter treads that I wish to put on it. I was also wondering if you can jack the car up anywhere but the four jack points on the sides? It would seem like there would be a front and rear point, so one could utilize a jack stand once they got the car in the air....

    Harbor frieght has a low height jack some have suggested - hydraulic... may go with that...

    Thanks for any thoughts or input!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,573
    edited November 2010
    I went with a Snap-On aluminum jack. I use it at the track for brake inspections, etc. No Complaints.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,032
    To one and all---do NOT buy those cheap Chinese jacks from chain stores. You'll kill yourself.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • pt838pt838 Posts: 16
    Mr. Shiftright, would you like to clarify your use of the term Chinese?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,032
    edited November 2010
    Imported from China I mean, (either one) and sold at a very low price. Chinese-made. Their lift ratings and integral strength are not well-regulated. Ditto the jack stands. They often look better than they are. It's not so much a problem with the craftsmanship, but rather the metallurgy.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • The Snap On jack looks well-made.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,279
    edited November 2010
    The Snap On jack looks well-made.

    Ya think?

    Snap On tools are the most expensive on the planet. There's a reason those trucks drive around selling tools to major manufacturers (think Honeywell or GE, among many others). Part of it is "pride of ownership" among the professional mechanics. Much of it is, well, something else.

    It's why Snap-On rules, at least in the heads of many professional wrench-turners.

    The next lower-tier mechanics take pride in Craftsman stuff from Sears.

    We all take pride in whether the fix worked, regardless of the tools involved.
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