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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • idoc2idoc2 Posts: 78
    edited May 2012
    It seems to me that when oil is increasingly consumed or burned it implies piston ring or cylinder wall wear. Its hard to imagine how oil getting around the cylinder heads into the combustion chamber can be a good thing. With that said, my BMW dealer claims that unless a car is using more than a quart per 750 miles(yes one quart per two tanks of gas! - are we talking a two stroke or what?) it is within what BMW considers an acceptable limit. Sounds like CYA nonsense!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    A small amount of oil lubricating the valve head and stem (upper combustion area) can be a good thing, yes.

    Oil loss isn't necessarily due to engine wear. You could have some problem with your "oil separator" (fancy name for a PCV valve, which under certain circumstances, and with certain cars, can allow oil to be sucked into the intake manifold. Porsche Boxsters are notorious for this failure.

    However, given the tiny amount of oil you are consuming, I wouldn't give it a second thought. If you find, over time, that consumption keeps dropping and dropping, then you should pay more attention--but even then, unless your consumption is even a quart every 2500 miles--the engine will run forever like that.

    One quart every 750 miles seems extreme. I wouldn't be happy with that, either.

    But a little oil burning is more than okay. When you see a product called "upper cylinder lubricant", that's actually oil that you add to the gas tank---for upper cylinder lubrication.

    Modern engines don't really need it, but it can't hurt in those miniscule amounts IMO.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    However, given the tiny amount of oil you are consuming, I wouldn't give it a second thought. If you find, over time, that consumption keeps dropping and dropping, then you should pay more attention--but even then, unless your consumption is even a quart every 2500 miles--the engine will run forever like that.

    Precisely. That engine will outlive 2 or 3 slushboxes and 1 or 2 transfer cases...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • I agree that you should purchase a brand new one, no point in going or a repair at this stage.
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    The quart per 750 miles or more seems to have become an industry standard. Chrysler also goes by that standard.

    I have 2 late model BMW's (2007, 2010) and neither use any oil between 5k mile oil changes. My wife owns a 2095 Mini and it doesn't use any oil either, and it has roughly 70k miles.

    I would suspect you have a leaking valve guide/seal(s), but that's just a guess. Pull your spark plugs and look to see if any particular one looks like its accumulated oil. If they all look the same, then I wouldn't worry too much.

    Some engines are just a bit "looser" than others, but still within manufacturing tolerances and standards.
  • Hi there, I'm having exactly the same problem with my 2006 3-series!! Can you please tell me if this got resolved with your car? If so, how?? Could use the help, thanks!
  • memphis10memphis10 Posts: 161
    I have a BMW 325i, 2003 with 70,000 miles. Car wouldnt start and got it towed to an independent mechanic in Dallas that I found through bimmershops.com. Here are some quotes I got.
    1. Bad Fuel Pump - $800
    2. Bad power steering - Whole unit needs to be replaced - $3300
    3. Gasket leak - $350
    TOTAL - $4500
    Are these prices ok? Is it worth spending $4500 for a car that is almost 10 years old but doesnt have too many miles on it. Please suggest other mechanics. I took it to Autoscope.
    Thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    I presume you have the M54 engine and not the M56.

    So the pump is about $360 list and the labor is about 2.2 hours. Soooo, based solely on what you're telling me, the price seems high for that.

    I'm not sure what you mean by the 'whole unit" but I presume you mean the steering gear and not the pump. The gear is $1280 complete plus about 1.6 hours labor. So that seems high as well unless he's replacing the pump, too. Can it ALL be bad?

    Can't say about the gasket leak because I don't know which gasket.

    I would suggest you tow it somewhere else for a second opinion and estimate.

    I'm basing my comments on some guesses as to what's being done here.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    edited July 2012
    I think that memphis10 is almost certainly getting hosed. If he was a BMW CCA member he could check with his local chapter to find an honest and competent shop. In almost 17 years of ownership the largest check that I've ever written for non-scheduled maintenance on my 133,000 mile 1995 3 Series track rat was $230- for a new heater flange coupling. At my BMW dealer.
    I sincerely hope that shop quote includes a kiss and fresh flowers delivered the next morning...

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • valueseeker627valueseeker627 Posts: 11
    edited July 2012
    Hi All,

    I am purchasing a BMW 330i with about 85k miles. I want to make sure the car is in good condition and have it inspected by the BMW dealer in town. My concerns are:

    What types of repairs are expected at this mileage level?
    Can the person selling the car tamper with the check engine light by cancelling the message on the onboard computer? I have heard of some people doing this and selling used cars. Once the new owner buys the car and drives for a few hundred miles, the light comes back and they are stuck with more serious issues that seemed not to exist.

    Also, if I take it to the BMW dealer, will they be able to conduct an inspection and tell me what's wrong with the car even if there has been potential tampering with engine lights, etc?

    Thanks for your help. Buying my first BMW and have been cautioned by many that repairs can be expensive, so I'd really like to be cautious and could use advice!!
  • pt838pt838 Posts: 16
    Hi, I recently sold my 2006 330Xi and moved up to a 2011 335Xi. Fortunately, I did not have much mechanical repairs while I owned the 2006, but you should be cautioned that the suspension for that model year is very rough. I do not know what part of the country you are located in, but I am from the New York area and had much problems with cracked alloy wheels due to the tight suspension and the city roads in New York. All potential owners of that model year should know this. Good luck with your purchase, if you live in an area with good road surfaces, you will enjoy your ride!!!
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    Also, if I take it to the BMW dealer, will they be able to conduct an inspection and tell me what's wrong with the car even if there has been potential tampering with engine lights, etc?

    You can clear a code from an OBDII equipped car, but if there is an actual fault the CEL will eventually return. That said, a good dealer should be able to detect actual tampering.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • dan12dan12 Posts: 114
    I have a 2007 335i. Over the last 6 months, I have had to add 1 qt of oil every 2k miles which means about every 2 months. This just started. In the past I had to add oil maybe once or twice a year. The BMW dealer says this is normal. But if it was normal, why was it not happening when the engine was new?

    I called another BMW service shop and the guy there told me that from what he has seen the 335 and 535 turbo engines don't last. This oil burning eventually leads to very expensive work and I should think about selling the car. I really like my 335i but don't want to keep it and get stuck with a $$$ repair bill.

    Thoughts?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    The rate of oil consumption you are experiencing is considered to be "acceptable" by BMW. That said, what worries me is the fact it began rather abruptly.
    I haven't heard of any long term durability issues with the N54/N55 engine, but I tend to focus on NA and M motors.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • dan12dan12 Posts: 114
    Thanks for the reply. Yeah, the BMW dealer said that they consider it to be normal and that they will put it in writing for me. Maybe I should take them up on that. In the meantime I guess I will wait a few more months and see if the problem continues. I have an extended warranty so that makes me more comfortable with waiting..
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    I wonder if he has some PCV problem going on here?

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    That's a possibility; I know that other BMW sixes -particularly the M54- can have issues with the oil separator.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • 5539655396 Posts: 529
    I never have to bother to check oil in our 03 Toyota Avalon w/112k. Even on a 6k oil change. Same for my 96 Z3 1.9 w/113k. There is no excuse for oil usage in a quality today. Especially in the BMW class.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    Nothing wrong with a "little" oil consumption--possibly even good for the upper cylinder area lubrication. Race cars use oil.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    Nothing wrong with a "little" oil consumption--possibly even good for the upper cylinder area lubrication. Race cars use oil.

    Two of my BMWs use virtually no oil, while two do. No big deal either way. The M42 in my E36/5 has used a quart every 2500 miles or so since I bought it new in 1995. What's odd is that it uses oil in suburban driving conditions, but hardly consumes a drop on the track or when cruising at 80 mph(4000 rpm)- go figure.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    Could have to do with engine "load"--it would be interested to hook up a vacuum gauge under both conditions.

    There is only one down-side to having an engine that consumes a bit of oil---you do have to check it between those 7500 mile oil changes. But it doesn't harm the engine to burn a bit of oil, it doesn't affect emissions, and it doesn't affect longevity.

    MODERATOR

  • mylesrmylesr Posts: 9
    I received a estimate of $1500 to replace transmission fluid/filter and replace spark plugs/coils...does this cost seem reasonable?
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Seems excessive to me, though I don't know how much the coils go for on that car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    They (the coils) are about $60 bucks a pop retail plus .5 of one hour to replace...so in my neck of the woods, that'd be about $425 + tax. Then spark plugs are about $45 for a 6 pack...let's round it at $50, plus 1.3 hours labor, so for the spark plugs we're looking at about $230 plus tax.

    So for coils and plugs we're at roughly $650, which leaves $850 to change the transmission fluid.

    Ah.....no. Must either be more to this service or someone is being very nasty to you.

    MODERATOR

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,456
    edited January 2013
    The filter/gasket /bolt kit(Munich wants you to use new pan bolts) runs around $106. Depending on the transmission the magic ATF can run up to $30/liter.(!). The bill still looks to be heavily padded; I know of one dealer that wanted $900 to replace a battery that had an MSRP of @$270.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • mylesrmylesr Posts: 9
    Here are the costs I received from Ferman BMW in Palm Harbor FL: Plugs $419/Trans Fluid/filter: between $852-1003 depending on which fluid is specified (need to bring in to varify), and Inspection I $500...I am now working w/an independant shop on this.
  • mylesrmylesr Posts: 9
    Lost this part when the car was towed to dealer to replace fuel pump. Is there a site I can get this part number from so I can try to get one from a junk yard? Also access to touch up paint for my Orient Blue?
  • busirisbusiris Posts: 3,490
    realoem.com should give you what you're searching for.
  • Hello All,

    Thought Id seek some wisdom here. Recently my 06 330xi was shaking profusely while driving, so I took it to the dealer.

    They said it was the iginition coil that needs replacing and $450 later, it is not shaking so much anymore.

    The problem is that the shaking hasnt gone away completely.

    The dealer also mentioned when I picked up the car, that the belt tensioner needs replacing as well and that would set me back by another $450 or thereabouts.

    I have two questions:

    1. Is the still slight shaking related to the belt tensioner?
    2. What is the risk of not replacing the belt tensioner?

    I have about 35k on the 06, and I dont drive more than a few miles each week on average. No daily driving at all.

    Thanks in advance!
  • Hello,

    Just wanted to check if I should buy maintnenace either from BMW or any third parties, for my 06 330xi. I only have about 35k miles on it and some maintenance items are creeping up.

    Any trusted maintenance companies out there?

    I was getting mailers from some company in Missouri in official government looking letters and I reported them to the BBB. They look fraudulent, so I want to me careful.

    Thanks!
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