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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • brislance1brislance1 Posts: 87
    bhitchcock

    I did, indeed, install the PBR-axxis deluxe pads that Div2 mentioned in his response to you. I have had little or no dust. Just made a 2000 mile trip from Arizona to Minnesota and when I washed the car it took about three minutes to spray the wheels with soap foam and rinse them off. Clean as new! Slap them on, you won't be sorry.
  • mothmoth Posts: 1
    I have just bought a nice 318 cabriolet well knowing that the automatic soft top mechanism only worked by hand. And as a proven home mechanic I thought that would be a minor problem. I bought a Haynes manual (as I always do) but it says nothing about the Cab. function. I have heard the two cab. motors running and the gears are OK. I have tested the micro switch in the trunk and in the cab cover – and the switch in the cab. also seems OK, but I can only guarantee the one in the cab cover works all the way to the end module because it releases the trunk all right. When I engage the gears nothing happens. Although I have seen and heard the motors and gears running under some circumstances (I forgot which) when I operated the cab switch on the dashboard they don’t run very often. How do I synchronize and get this stuff to work – this is not a case for tire kickers I know, but I have zeroed ABS systems before and made them work. Are there any web pages that describe the wiring diagram of the soft top and how it functions? – I really need some professional help.
  • aticatic Posts: 3
    My 1997 318 ti is running on 87 right now due to high prices and all...umm..it recommends 89...is it ok for me to down grade for a while?..is it that much of a difference?? can someone explain this to me, and is it ok to mix the grades if possible???
  • jwp2jwp2 Posts: 1
    I have 2 BMWs - 1985 524td with 201K and a 2000 323i with 96k. The 85 is still running strong, with no problems, and driven daily.

    I usually keep my cars a long time ('84 Saab 900T - 266k; 94 Volvo 940 290k). How many miles can I expect from my 323i, without spending a fortune to keep it running? The dealer's service manager said the engine and trans are "rock solid". I maintain my car by the book. Had "normal" repairs with the exception of a cam timing sensor and oil leaking into my cooling system (BMW thought it was a cracked head and replaced it under Certified PreOwned).

    Is it possible to get 250K miles or shall I sell (current price $10-13.5k, car in great shape) and take the money and run and buy a newer 3 series.

    Any suggestions/ info will be appreciated.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    This issue has been discussed at length(some would say beaten to death) in various threads. The general consensus is that any savings from using 87 AKI fuel are offset by poorer fuel economy, since the engine management has to retard the ignition timing due to the lower octane fuel. And anyway, if you do the math, you'll see that your "savings" will add up to all of about $5 per month.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Is it possible to get 250K miles or shall I sell (current price $10-13.5k, car in great shape) and take the money and run and buy a newer 3 series.

    Unless just you want a newer car, I'd say keep it. The E46 has proven to be a very reliable model.
  • kosbeemerkosbeemer Posts: 3
    I own a 2000 323i. In the morning when I start my car it sounds rough, as if it almost doesn't want to start. Also sounds like only 4 cylinders are firing up and not 6. Car has a little shake to it. After it warms up ( about 3 to 4 minutes] it sounds normal again. Through out the rest of the day, errands, work and what not it does not do it again. Some days worse then others.Only happens in the morning or sitting for a long period of time. Any clues? Thanks. Krissy
  • kosbeemerkosbeemer Posts: 3
    When I first start my car the oil light stays on in yellow for about 6 to 10 seconds then goes out. I have had my mechanic check the oil pump, pressure and I have my oil changed every 5 thousand miles and I use mobil 1 100% synthetic. Any ideas?
  • kosbeemerkosbeemer Posts: 3
    I own a 2000 323i. I did the "cheaper" route too. Caused me for my engine light to go on and it sounded like a mac truck, and a trip to the mechanic to clear the code and replace an oxygen sensor. This was last summer. Since then I only use 93 octane. No problems since
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Several things could be causing the problems you describe. Among other things, I'd check the plugs, fuel pressure regulator, and the coolant temperature sensor.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Did the mechanic measure the oil pressure at cold start-up? If the oil pressure checked out good on that test, then the problem is almost certainly a bad oil pressure sending unit- which is usually cheap and simple to replace.
  • canman1971canman1971 Posts: 61
    It sound like it is exactly what div2 said. The oil pressure sending unit. My car was doing the same thing and I had 2 guys tell me the same thing. I had it fixed, because I had some other stuff done, and it cost about $300, which was at a dealer. I could've had it done cheaper at my indy shop, but I didn't want to wait, so I had it done.
  • r_l_edisonr_l_edison Posts: 14
    I have a 330xi with a 6sp and 11,500 miles. I've posted here before regarding this problem, which was finally partially corrected when my dealership reset the computer on my car (and replaced the driver's seat frame, for those who might go back into the archives to review said problems). From what I've gathered here, it seems this ongoing problem is probably the electronic delay valve (EDV) for the clutch. I get the erratic performance from the clutch when starting out from a stop and on the 1st to 2nd shift in the form of the clutch jerking or not engaging smoothly after I've already release the pedal completely. It doesn't do it all the time or in any kind of consistent manner...just often enough to be very aggravating in stop-and-go city driving, which makes up about 85% of my driving time. I've driven manual trans vehicles since I was a kid, so this is not a symptom of inexperience on my part, and I've never had this much trouble shifting/driving a manual trans smoothly before. Some have suggested removing or disabling the EDV...my question is how difficult/expensive is this to do...will any decent, private shop do it (since I doubt the dealership will do it)...and will this void my warranty and/or service plan if the dealership discovers what's been done? If I can't get this problem resolved, I'm going to get rid of this car and find a car that knows a manual transmission means the driver knows best when and how to engage the clutch to get the car moving properly :mad: Porsche/Audi/Volkswagen all seem to know how a clutch is suppose to work...maybe BMW should take a field trip to their drivetrain department and take some notes!
  • r_l_edisonr_l_edison Posts: 14
    Update: It's a Clutch Delay Valve (CDV), not EDV (not electric at all). I found a website that details this problem and how to correct it in fantastic detail. Here's the link so hopefully all can be spared from this miserable valve with their own BMWs.

    http://www.zeckhausen.com/cdv.htm

    Good luck!
  • canman1971canman1971 Posts: 61
    I was sitting getting coffee today and my DSC light came on for no reason. I pushed the button to turn it off and it wouldn't shut off. I turned the car off and back on and it was off. Any ideas if this could be a sign of a problem? Also, right after that, my temp guage went into the red. My A/C wasn't on and it was only around 70 degrees, so it wasn't hot and my car had only been on for about 1/2 hour. I went to pull to the side after getting my coffee and I turned my heat on full blast and it went down immediately. Does anyone know what this could be. I just had my reserve tank replaced so it 's all new fluid in the car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    My front tires are up for replacement. I think worn out on the inside due to neglect (no rotation or balancing for at least a year). It might be that they are worn out with use as well.

    I have the option of buying from Costco either two tires or all four. I will ask them as to whether they think my rear tires need replacement as well.

    The Question I have is that the tire options I have are:

    1. Michelin (Palace sport all season): $191 each
    2. BF Goodrich (G4 Sport) $111 each
    3. Michelin (Palace primacy): $194 each
    4. Michelin MXM HX: $234.99

    I do not drive particularly aggressive or anything. Any advise on which one I should buy?

    I hope this is the right forum for this question.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    my 4yr 50K warranty is set to expire shortly. i wanted to buy warranty and would appreciate any advise on what options i might have. criteria of course are cost and coverage level, deductible etc.

    thanks!!
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    I was sitting getting coffee today and my DSC light came on for no reason.

    My wife's E39 would illuminate the ABS and DSC warning lamps a couple of times per year. They'd always go off in a day or less, so I never got serious about troubleshooting the fault. It's probably a dirty or bad ABS sensor.

    Also, right after that, my temp guage went into the red. My A/C wasn't on and it was only around 70 degrees, so it wasn't hot and my car had only been on for about 1/2 hour. I went to pull to the side after getting my coffee and I turned my heat on full blast and it went down immediately. Does anyone know what this could be?

    It sounds like the cooling system was not bled properly after the expansion tank was replaced. The system may have purged itself, but you can't be sure. I'd keep an eye on the coolant level as well as the temp gauge for the next few days. If it gets hot again, take it back to the shop that did the work and request that the system be bled correctly.
  • canman1971canman1971 Posts: 61
    Thank you. I called them and they told me there might be an air pocket somewhere and to keep an eye on it and keep adding water as needed until it's gone. So far, it hasn't done it again.
  • sunilbsunilb Posts: 407
    Call the folks at tirerack... they'll give you good advice, likely better prices and ship the tires to a local installer.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    Still a lot of jargon at Tirerack that is difficult to undrstand. :(

    Tirerack has a couple of differnet types of tires, but it is not easy to figure which one will give most tracction, lst longest, reduce road noise, minimizes wear and tear.

    Finally, I am mighty supicious of advise from stores sites...

    Any 325i owners who have replaced tires recently (or several times over the last 5-10 years) and are happy with the tires?
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    Still a lot of jargon at Tirerack(sic) that is difficult to undrstand(sic).

    I don't see how the Tire Rack site could be any more user-friendly. There are numerous links which explain almost all of the "jargon" in almost elementary school terms. On top of that, there are tons of user evaluations as well as road/track test results. What more do you want?

    Finally, I am mighty supicious(sic) of advise(sic) from stores(sic) sites...

    Your loss; I have bought about a dozen sets of tires from Tire Rack with absolutely no complaints. Any advice they have provided has been spot on.
  • gordonwdgordonwd Posts: 337
    I get the erratic performance from the clutch when starting out from a stop and on the 1st to 2nd shift in the form of the clutch jerking or not engaging smoothly after I've already release the pedal completely. It doesn't do it all the time or in any kind of consistent manner...just often enough to be very aggravating in stop-and-go city driving, which makes up about 85% of my driving time.

    Thanks for posting this. I have the exact same problem on my '04 325i. The initial-engagement problems seems to come and go for no apparent reason, and it's embarassing when I have passengers in the car since I have always prided myself on my smooth shifting ability (driving most manuals for over 40 years). I'll mention it when I take my car in for service the next time, but I don't know what they can do to correct it while keeping the CDV in there.

    I also have a problem on the 2-3 shift where the acceleration just after shifting is a bit jerky. It doesn't really feel like it's the clutch slipping (or at least I hope not!), and I was thinking it was something in the electronic engine management that is jittering, but maybe it's also CDV-related.

    Anyway, it's nice to know that I'm not alone in having these problems. This is definitely the hardest car to shift smoothly that I've owned. Interestingly, the BMW motorcycles that I owned were also all pretty rough shifters compared to their Japanese counterparts. Go figger! ;)
  • gordonwdgordonwd Posts: 337
    I just put a set of 225/45-17s on my '04 325i and am happy with the Pirelli P-Zero Nero M+S tires that I got from TireRack for $125 each. The "M+S" means that they are all-seasons, so if you do not drive aggressively you might want this type of tire that will give you longer life than a summer performance tire (the P-Zero's are also available in the performance tread).

    So far these tires meet my needs completely: a very quiet ride, plenty of stick for my requirements, and seem good in the rain. I could probably get away with them through the winter as well, but will go back to my stock 16-inch wheels & winter tires in the Fall. The only negative on them is that they are more affected by grooved pavement than the stock tires, but we have very little of that around here and it's not an issue for me.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    I hear you. i will look into the user evaluations on the site as well.

    Meanwhile, i currently have Z rated tires on my car, and almost none of the recommended option on the site were for Z tires. Any additional thoughts from people on the need to get myself Z rated tires since I am replacing only two.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    Thanks for the recommendation! The price no doubt is better than the Michelin $190 ones. M+S should work for me as well.

    However, since all four that I have currently are 225/45 ZR17s, I am wondering if I should mix and match. Will try to figure out.
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    However, since all four that I have currently are 225/45 ZR17s, I am wondering if I should mix and match. Will try to figure out.

    Mixing tire brands is never a good idea; the result is almost always compromised handling.
    If you live in an area that receives significant snowfall, the best thing to do is buy dedicated winter tires mounted on a second set of wheels. That way you can fit serious summer rubber on your stock wheels. It takes less than one hour to swap the wheels over in your driveway.
    That said, if you want to go the all season route then the Pirelli PZero Nero M&S is an excellent tire. Other good choices would be the Avon Tech M550 A/S as well as the Kumho Ecsta ASX. I have run several sets of Kumhos on both my wife's 5er as well as my Club Sport, and I've been very pleased with their performance and longevity; they represent outstanding value as well. Note that all three tires have a W speed rating which exceeds the requirements for your car.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    Hey div2,

    Thanks much for your thoughts. This sounds good. I have two Kumho Ecsta Super tires put in place by the previous owner and those are not the ones that require replacement. May be an opportunity to get more of the same. I will find out how the Ecsta Super is different from Ecsta ASX.

    And I am guessing that W and Z are not very different. I will try to find out at TireRack.

    - Shailendra
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    And I am guessing that W and Z are not very different. I will try to find out at TireRack.

    The letters refer to tire speed ratings. W means the tire is rated for 168 mph, while Z denotes a tire rated for 149+ mph. It's all academic really. Any tire rated H, V, Z, or W will be fine for your driving conditions.
    As for the Kumho "Supers", are you sure they aren't Supras? If so, that is an excellent summer performance tire(I currently have a set on my 3 Series)- but it's not at all suited for driving in ice or snow.
  • msim2020msim2020 Posts: 12
    As for the Kumho "Supers", are you sure they aren't Supras? If so, that is an excellent summer performance tire(I currently have a set on my 3 Series)- but it's not at all suited for driving in ice or snow.

    The "Supers" are perhaps Supras then. I read it in under flash light one letter at a time :). Hmm... I hope pairing Supras and ASX that you had recommended should be fine. I just do not want to spend the extra $250 at least that I would need to if I replaced all the tires. And it sounds like getting two more of the same will make it even worse in the snow. In am near Richmond, Va and luckily snow is sparse here.

    Thanks Div2!
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