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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    New EGR valve? what about the tubes and passages coming from it? I had this on my 2000 Max, look in the idling and starting problems forum for all messages. Sensor will produce a service engine soon light. I looked into coolant temp sensor, maf, air leaks in intake, idle air control valve, computer itself... In the end it tuned out to be a clogged egr valve tube, the one that goes from intake manifold to egr valve. Manifold needs to be removed to get to it. After I had it fixed I found a lot of articles online saying that clogged egr valve passages are the leading cause for idling issues. I would suggest removing your manifold, check that tube, replace manifold gaskets since it's already off, clean throttle body as it should come off with the manifold, inspect idle air control valve since it will be easily accessible then and see if you can clean it. Any way, you have do some exploratory surgery there, once you remove the manifold then you will have access to potential problem areas. But it's not the sensors, they may be old but a non-working sesnor will display a ses light and most likely misbehave in any weather too. Oh ye, if you hear intermittent pinging then it is definitely the clogged up egr tube.b
  • thanks for reply, yes i change the EGR and cleaned all the system connected to it. I changed the coolant temp. senser and the knock senser, new air and fuel filters, they checked the spark plugs and all good i did all these at Nissaan dealer.. but after i changed the egr and cleaned the system the engin light goes on and i checked it and it is the O2 senser they told me it might be dirt or something so i used fuel inj. cleaner and it turned off by itself and its been off so far 3 months.but why only this problem happen on first start in the morning before the sun hit the car on cold morning like 35 to 50? i go to work at 6 am but on weekend i wake up at 10 or 11 so when i turn the engin on from the first hit it works normal... some people told me one of the senser get effected by the dew !! so i think thats interesting.. any ideas
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    not sure then, the only thing is that when you do service at the dealer you don't really see the car and what exactly they are doing. They may have said that they cleaned all pessages to egr valve but in reality may be they didn't. I had experience with dealers and I learned that they only change the part but often have no idea or don't want to waste time doing anything else. It's hard to tell but in my experience if you have a problem only in the cold morning then it's got to be something clogged up or cracked/old gasket, which shrinks in the cold and expands back to normal when engine warms up. I heard one guy had a cracked manifold gasket, which was causing it. I would go to reputable mechanic and ask him to remove the intake manifold and inspect everything real good, all gaskets, tubes, hoses, once the manifold is off then you get a nice view. Should cost you a couple hundred but that's how you find the problem. Good luck
  • is that what you think it is???/
  • is there a reason my car will not idle right???? it acts like it is starving for gas..but will not idle..i dont understand
  • I own a nissan maxima 01 GLE -Meridian edition. Since I purchased the car, i seem to have problems with the heated seats. I talked to the dealer and as usual their answer has been "there is no problem with the car". well it takes 5 minutes for the seats to get heated :surprise: . I was driving my friends VW the other day and it takes just 30 seconds. I live just 5 minutes from work, and now the heated seats in the winter seem useless to me. can anyone help? is there a way to turn up the heat on the seats? thanks
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 996
    I also have an '01 GLE. There are two settings, low and high. On high mine take about 2 minutes to warm up, a little longer than the ones on my Mazda6. How cold is it where you live?
  • thanks for your reply
    its gets to about -5F some days. But on an average we are at freezing temperatures for 4 months a year. And yes my maxima has the High and Low settings as well.
  • My Maxima SL 2005 AT, It usually takes 2 - 3 times to get it started if I use Shell 93 gasoline . That is something not seen if I use ESSO (EXXON), TEXACO or GULF brands.

    Any idea ?????
  • morehpmorehp Posts: 30
    Your experience with the seat heaters is typical of mine (1995 model). Around 5 minutes to generate significant warmth. I don't think there is anything "wrong" with your car... it's just that in my experience most other manufacturers' heaters (Audi, VW, MB, BMW, Lexus/Toyota, Honda/Acura) work considerably faster.
  • vu2000vu2000 Posts: 58
    My brother-in-law's keyless remote for his Maxima is broken and he just bought a new remote. I would appreciate if anyone here can provide me with the programming instruction for the remote. Thanks.
  • Thanks, I appreciate the input!
    Bob
  • can you e mail the website with the cheap coils for my 2000 maxima
  • The nav system on my '02 Maxima displays only "disc error." I've tried cleaning the CD lens to no avail. A local car audio store won't service it and the dealer wants $4,000 (excluding labor) to replace the whole system. (Uh, no!)

    Can I buy and install a nav system from a salvage yard? Any other experiences or expertise? Please help!
  • zhekazheka Posts: 18
    My starting problems are solved!!!
    I had starting issues, changed a lot of parts (alternator, crank sensor, ....) but the problem persisted. See more info on my prev posts (3077, 3078)
    I finally brought the car to a dealer shop - which has been recommended to me as having the most knowledgeable mechanics, and they found the problem!

    When they called me, they told me "We found the problem, but do not think that we are crazy.." and stated that my car had a rare automotive issue(They said one in >1000 Maximas has it, and usually if car has lived in North East):
    The transmission housing rusted, and fused with the body of the car - creating a electric flux that fooled the ECU into getting wrong readings from the sensors at the start-up - when the current flowing through the car is the highest. Thus, about half of the time, the engine was trying to rotate backwards, hitting the starter (the knock I heard once in a while) and eventually destroying it.

    I was skeptical, and contacted a friend who is an electrical eng., conveying him the story. To my surprise, he said that this can easily happen, and more often affects micro-electronics as they are more fragile. (If you drop your phone in water, it may still work, but usually would behave strangely).

    Thus, I called the shop and told them to go ahead and do the repair, but only if they guaranteed the result. They agreed.

    They lowered the transmission and sanded the housing of any surface rust ($600). The total bill was $980 as they insisted on changing the alternator again $280, saying that it was almost dead from the improper starting.

    Even though I spent 1000 on the repair, and around 800 at prev. shops trying to diagnose the issue - I am happy. The car starts momentarily, anytime!!!

    Hope this helps someone – I noticed lot’s of people posting starting issues with similar symptoms!!!

    P.S. The mechanics at this shop also mentioned that they have had around 2-3 Maximas with this problem before me and one owner spent over $4000 in electrical components trying to fix the issue, before coming to them. Thus, for such problem, I would suggest going to the good dealer’s mechanic.
  • Hi Folks,
    I am owning 05 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SL.
    I am not driving it too much as I am a road warrior and will be travelling very often. So miles on my odometer are very less.
    Questions -
    1) Nissan suggests servicing every 6 months e.g. 1st at 3750 miles or 6 months, 2nd at 7500 or 12 months. At 6 months I had only 2000 miles at 12 months I have only 6000 miles. Can you please suggest shall I still go ahead and service my vehicle at 12th month or I should wait for 7500 miles as service center may be doing tire rotation?

    2)What is the normal oil changing time you guys do or suggest for new Maxima?

    3) Is anyone using high quality oil which will go upto 10,000 miles or so?

    thanks in advance,
    BSH
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    Actually there must be more to the story, as what you were told makes no sense. The transmission housing can't fuse to the body of the car, as the resulting vibration and noise would have been horrendous. Also gas engines can't run backwards (but they can backfire and kick a little).

    It's an interesting problem and it would be great to learn what really happened here. Maybe some info got lost in translation?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • i seem to have 12 volts to everything but still no spark the security light is on and i have nothing to it off --i just bought the car and would like to disable the alarm all to gether -- hope someone has a idea what to do
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    does anyone know where i can get a 2000 maxi rim?? I blew out my tire and my rim may be bent... and the dealer quoted $445 - $575 and I would definitely like something cheaper!! PLease help!!!
  • try eBay or maxima.org classifieds section
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    does anyone know where i can get a 2000 maxi rim??

    I replaced a wheel on a 2003 for $225 including shipping (was getting the same dealer prices) by going with a reconditioned wheel bought over the net. Alloy wheels cannot be straightened, so reconditioned essentially means that they cleaned up any scratches in the powder coating but otherwise good structurally.

    Search for "reconditioned maxima wheel" and you should find a few hits.
  • Hi,
    No reply to my questions?
    Can anyone please answer few or all of the questions?

    thanks,
    BSH
  • The reason nobody wants to answer this, is because it's been beaten to death in this and other forums all over the net. But since I've never answered this particular question online, I'll offer my version.

    1. Use the earliest criteria that meets the requirement - in your case it's the mileage, so I would suggest changing your oil at 12 months.

    2. Until you're out of warranty, use the interval recommended in your owners manual, which is 3750 miles / 6 months. After that, it depends who you listen to. It certainly does not hurt to change it more often, other than the usual drawbacks of wasting time/money/polluting the environment, if you are so inclined.

    I owned a '97 Max, for the first 100k I did oil changes every 5000 miles, which for me equaled 2.5 months. After 100k I switched to synthetic oil, and changed it every 12k miles or 6 months. When I sold the car with 199k miles on the odometer, it had no engine (or other) problems and used just a half of quart of oil between oil changes. Your mileage may vary (pun intended).

    3. Synthetic oil manufacturers recommend extended periods, but stick with your manufacturer's schedule while you are covered by the warranty - you may need to prove that you've done maintenance, if something fails. Consider that some cars, like BMWs, have a way of measuring oil life (probably calculated from how you drive your car, outdoor temps, etc.), and often let you go up to and over 15K miles between changes (no personal experience here, but search the BMW boards). Also, it may be worth it to pay $20 for oil analysis once in a while.
  • mendymendy Posts: 1
    I just purchased a new 05 Maxima this week and I noticed my breaks pulsate. Does anyone know if this is normal.
  • lori8lori8 Posts: 2
    Car stalls at stop signs & slow speeds when warmed up.
    I've had the Idle Control sensor replaced & throttle body cleaned. I've been to 4 mechanics in 3 months. The check engine light does not come on. The car only has 86,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent condition.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    What happens if you shift it into neutral? If it runs ok, then it may be your auto transmission.
  • leirexleirex Posts: 50
    I all depends on your driving style and condition. In manual, three different oil change schedules are mentioned depending on your driving condition. I remember one calls for every 3750 miles (extreme condition) while the other calls for every 7500 miles (normal condition). It is said that it is better to change oil often but costs time and money. I am planning to do oil change on my 06 SL every 5000 miles. My driving condition falls in the every 7500 miles category but will do it every 5000 miles. I hope this helps.
  • lori8lori8 Posts: 2
    It stalls in neutral & park too!!
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    You said that the check engine light is not on. Does it work at all? It should come on when you first turn the ignition on. If it works ok, there still may be a problem with a sensor, i.e. it did not fail completely, but it's not indicating the right condition.

    I am surprised that a mechanic could not diagnose this. I am not a mechanic (only a DIY one), but I know this much.

    I would start with ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor). It's cheap, and easy to replace. If you have a multimeter, you can test it before replacing.
  • My 05 SL started doing that at 9000 miles. I did not report it until 12200 and it's not under warranty after 12000. It was bad front disks. I suggested you to go to your dealer and report it ASAP. Its not a normal function.
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