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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tgregg91tgregg91 Posts: 2
    i just bought a remote 4 my factory alarm and followed the instructions to program it,but the horn doesn't blow when i arm the remote. could some1 tell me what i could do to fix this problem. by the way,my horn does work.
  • jgbadjgbad Posts: 1
    I HAVE A 2001 MAXIMA THAT IDLES ERRATICALLY BETWEEN 1000 AND 2500 RPM. THE ISCV HAS BEEN REPLACED WITH NO IMPROVEMENT. WHAT TO DO?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Start with something simple and cost affective - clean your throttle body, check your air filter and run a tank with expensive fuel system cleaner, fill up with 93 octane. If it doesn't help then there may be many reasons. Does your car idle like that all the time or only when you start it in the morning? If you hold down gas pedal until the car warms up, does the problem go away or continues throughout the day?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    well, the remote can be set to silent or non-silent mode, on the back of it, there are instructions to switch betwene the two modes. You may be on the silent mode now, I think you need to press and hold both lock and unlock buttons simoltaneously and then your sidemarkers will flash indicating a successful switch. Oterwise there is a procedure to prtogram a new remote. Here, this is straight from the manual:
    1. Close all doors
    2. insert and remove key from ignition cylinder more then six times within 10 seconds.
    3. insert key and turn to ACC position
    4. push any button on remote controller once, the hazard lights will now flash, at this time the oldest id code is erased and new code is entered.
    5. to program additional remotes, lock doors with lock/unlock switch on the driver side door and then push any button on the new remote. Skip this step if not programming additional remotes.
    6. Open driver side door.
  • da763da763 Posts: 14
    I have a 2000 Maxima SE. Recently I had to have the Idle Air Control Valve replaced. Now, the Mass Airflow Sensor has gone bad. The car has been in the shop for a week and only now has the dealer been able to diagnose this problem. I remember reading that the Mass Airflow Sensor was covered under the emissions system warranty, which I believe is 8 years/80,000 miles for California cars.

    Can anybody confirm this?

    Thanks
  • unpdblunpdbl Posts: 7
    I purchased a serpentine belt and a power steering belt. I was able to replace the serpentine belt but am not sure how to take tension off of the power steering belt. Anybody know? I don't have a shop manual yet.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    8 year/80K warranty is only for catalyst and ECU (computer), not the MAF. You can download warranty information booklet from www.nissantechinfo.com
  • Recently I was reading that Nissan will put CVT (Continuous variable transmission) in 2007 Maxima. Finally abrupt transmissions shifts are going to be past news. That is my mayor and continuously complains in my 2005 SL Maxima. The second one is the road noise.... too loud...... I believe they think I will try new luck with the 2007 ones. NO WAY .... Nissan doesn't care about customers. No solution for current customers... no more money on Nissan...
  • bulbullbulbull Posts: 4
    have 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE. Failed inspection because the rear right brake had no pressure. I pulled out the the caliber and tried to turn it in. It was impossible. I used the proper tools. But it would not budge. Help. I have the caliber out and in a vise. I cut the rubber seal around the piston. I am wondering how to get it out.?
    ANY ONE Take a shot at this? Thanks
  • rclubrclub Posts: 2
    Got a 2000 GLE with 65k. Last year I noticed an awful trembling and noise coming from the brakes the brake pads were completely worn off, took it into the dealer and had the rear pads and rotors changed on the brakes (700 bucks). Not more than 3 months later the same thing happened, unfortunately I had moved at this point and was not able to take it back to the same place so I took it into Midas. They noticed that again my rear pads were completely worn and that the rotors were destroyed. They also noticed that the hand brake was getting stuck so they loosened that and replaced the rotors/pads (only 300 bucks). Since then I have not been using the hand brake at all to avoid the same problem. On my drive to the airport last week I noticed again the same problem and when I parked there was a pretty strong burning smell coming from the back wheels again. Has anyone else encountered a similar problem?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I have a 2000 GLE and recently changed rear pads and front pads and resurfaced front rotors. The front rotors were pretty grooved after only around 12K miles since new and pads were only half gone but sqeeling like hell. Now I do hear unpleasent noise when breaking but rotors and pads look fine so far. Something is wrong, it sounds like may be somethig is catching and making a metalic noise. Let's keep this thread going if anyone has encountered this and fixed it or knows of any common 2K Maxima issue, which is causing these break problems.
  • carsrmecarsrme Posts: 3
    oh i have done that plently of times with my fathers car which is a 1995 Nissan Maxima and there isnt any problems noticed it still runs and starts buitifully. if your still worried send it to the shop that will check it for you
  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    The power steering belt has a lockbolt and adjuster below the pulley. You also have to loosen the power steering pump-bolt below is 14mm and you have to get to it with extensions and universal sockets.
  • scrotboyscrotboy Posts: 2
    Hey, y'all. I just bought a '02 SE 6-speed with 68,000 miles on it. As I was entering the interstate to drive home, I accelerated into the passing lane, and the engine completely stalled out. I fought through interstate traffic to the shoulder, where the car would not restart. It would idle for about 2 secounds, then the rpm would bounce down to complete stall.

    Needless to say, the dealer picked me up from the side of the interstate, and towed the car to the Nissan dealership to be diagnosed. He suspects a camshaft sensor, which was a recall item on this model. However, the sensor was apparently replaced in '04 in response to the recall. The owner of the lot says that they're going to fix whatever the problem is -- it won't be on me. However, the sales contract states that I'm buying the car AS IS. I don't distrust them, but I could be exposed to getting screwed.

    Please give me some feedback on this. I just bought a car that died within 2 hours of driving it off of the lot!!! Part of me says, "ditch it," but I really liked this car. Any ideas?

    Thanks.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Is Service Engine Soon light on? If so then it may help you diagnose by scanning the computer with a scan tool, most shops have one. I wouldn't ditch the car unless you find out what the problem is and who pays to fix it. No matter what the contract says, you probably have a case against the lot where you got it and they should be willing to fix it at no charge. Checked it with Carfax?? Make sure it's not a lemon or flooded or after accident.
  • scrotboyscrotboy Posts: 2
    The dealer brought a scanner when he picked me up on the side of the road. It didn't indicate any problems at all.

    The check engine light was on after it died; it wasn't on until then. And I did check on Carfax, and it got a clean bill of health -- from my mechanic, too. One annoying thing is that Nissan doesn't report recalls to Carfax, so I didn't know that there are two recalls on this model: one with the camshaft position sensor, and one with an accelerator sensor. The symptoms of both of these recalls are consistent with what happened to me.
  • sluggerslugger Posts: 2
    serpitine belts are bad. What do you loosen up to take them off and do you take them off from underneath or from top of car. Don't look like any room to take off.
  • hello all,
    i own a 2000 maxima that has given me nothing but trouble. i have heard some owners with the same problem but no real solution. the car shakes when idling. no shaking is noticed at higher speeds; mostly just when you have your foot on the brake and are stopped. i have been to the nissan dealership 7 times. they have done these things which have fixed the problem for various amounts of time:
    -checked all sensors
    -replaced all ignition coils
    -replaced all spark plugs
    -replaced 2 fuel injectors
    -replaced mass air flow sensor
    -unwired and rewired the engine

    This same problem has now come back to haunt me after i just replaced the compressor. If anyone can please help me with any advice i would greatly appreciate it. I have already spent a great deal of money and can't afford to fix the wrong thing anymore.

    Thank you,
    PoorCollegeStudent
  • sluggerslugger Posts: 2
    just wondering if anyone can answer my question about removing serpitine belts? #3254
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    As i suggested to many other Maxima owners - EGR Valve tubes and passages clog up with time and cause idling issues, pinging and so forth. Clean out your EGR Valve passages.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    There is a plastic cover held by 2 bolts and 2 plastic rivets behind the right front wheel, when removed it gives you easier access to the belts.

    To remove the alternator belt you first need to loosen up the bolt that holds the pulley - it can be done from top or bottom. The bolt may be stuck, so be careful to not strip the head. Once it's loose, you need to loosen the belt by turning the adjustment bolt that's seen at the top of the pulley.

    To remove the power steering belt, you need to loosen the bracket on the power steering pump, but I've never done this, so can't be sure what's involved. It's done from the bottom.

    Also, check out this page:

    http://www.greghome.com/images/Maxima%20Pics/ShopManual/DriveBelts/Shop-DriveBel- ts.jpg

    Hope this helps!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    what is "unwired and rewired the engine"? What exactly did they do?
  • Sorry for lack of details on this one. They basically told me that they disconnected many of the wires(to the engine/sensors) and reconnected them and the problem was magically fixed. they claimed that no wiring was actually switched around.this fix lasted for a month or so.?!?!?!?

    another note: service engine light comes on and off sparatically day to day, usually on when idling is roughest. The light then usually gets to a point where it stays on and then i take it to nissan where their computer feeds them a bunch of crap.

    EGR VALVE:
    i have been told, not by nissan, but by a friend that my egr valve needs to be replaced. whenever i turn my car off or am moving at slow speeds and stopping(-ex. fast food drive through) i get a series of wah wah wah wah wah noises, usually 5 in a row. i didn't think that this was related to the idle problem because this noise occurs when car is running smooth and when i'm having problems. perhaps i should start by getting these lines cleaned out?

    thanks for responding to me.
  • ecd1974ecd1974 Posts: 5
    I was a bit dismayed to see some rust on the rear door jambs just above the plastic trim that runs along the wheelbase of the car. I believe that dirt is coming in through a gap between the door and the plastic trim (kicked up by the tires at high speed), sandblasting the paint in that area. Both the driver's and passenger's side have these rust spots that are about the size of a pea. I have brought the car to the dealership - they took pictures and sent them to Nissan for evaluation. I am currently waiting for a response about the problem. To me, this is clearly a manufacturing defect - it's the same on both sides. If anyone has heard of this on other Maximas or has any suggestions - especially dealing with the dealership/Nissan, I'd be interested.
  • Well I own an I30 which is basically the same thing. i experienced the same problem you did and found information online that hinted towards blocked Airflow. This is y the dealer sold u a new air flow meter(Kinda Expensive). I also looked into buying one of these, but my very honest mechanic(kinda rare) advised me not to because air flow meters rarely go bad. So I continued my research and came across this http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517.... a detailed aricle on how to clean ur throtle body. My car feels like it did when I bought it. No more shaking (engine knocking) or poor acceleration... I've been doing this to my car every six months for about a year and half now as part of my full tune up and have since experienced no similar problems.... i would recomend u change the air filter if u do decide to try this and clean out the air box.
  • louie4louie4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima with @ 37,000 miles on it & just recently noticed a "clunking" noise coming from the rear (or so it sounds) - doesn't happen but once in awhile and seems to only happen when I'm doing 70 & then slow down to either exit or turn to the right - only seems to do it when I'm veering off to the right & again doesn't happen but once in a while. I asked the Nissan service manager & of course they have to hear it to be able to determine what it is - he doesn't have a clue. Any help?????? :confuse:
  • cal4591cal4591 Posts: 1
    I get the rough idling when my traction control lights on the dashboard are lit. The dealer has reset the computer, at a cost of $200 but. of course, they light up every so often anyway - accompanied by the rough idle/car shaking. The lights stay on for a while then turn off for a while. So your problem may be related to your car computer.
  • unpdblunpdbl Posts: 7
    Thanks for the advice re: the power steering belt replacemant. I saw the two 12mm bolts on the adjuster. I think I need an offset wrench for the one thats accessable from up top,I did see the 12mm adjuster below. However I did not see the 14mm bolt; is that facing down or off to the side?
  • gs1100gs1100 Posts: 1
    Sounds crazy, but try draining and putting in new transmission fluid, if automatic. It could be the torque converter sensing some contaminates and shutting down causing a stall. Worked for me.
  • frumosulefrumosule Posts: 1
    I just replaced the belts in my 2000 Maxima. The first belt was exactly as stated above and was much easier when the plastic cover behind the wheel was removed.

    The other belt MUST be done with that cover removed and with the front right jacked up and the wheel removed. For me (2000 Maxima), there was a bracket holding the pump tension screw which had a retaining screw on the side of it which had to be loosened first, This bracket had an L shaped hole in it (never seen anything like it before). It looked like the very long tension screw could be released easily from the bracket, but I could not get it to do that. It is also in a hard place to get to, but was much easier with a 12m socket, long extension, and one of those socket extensions that pivot up to 90 degrees (only a few degrees is needed) since you don't get a strait shot at it. Once I figured that out, it was a snap to get done.
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