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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 04mxasl04mxasl Posts: 3
    Where is the pcv vacuum hose located in an 04 maxima?
  • 95max295max2 Posts: 9
    I have a 95 with same problem. There is a sensor in front of your car called the ---- pressure sensor, this sensor has to do with gas. Try changing this first. Your repair guy should know the sensor because I forgot the name. I change my pump the the problem still exist and I was told the change that sensor. Let me know if this solve the problem.
  • azzankelazzankel Posts: 2
    A few months ago, I had a faulty coil in my 2000 Maxima SE 5 speed(52,000 miles). Had it replaced at a dealership, but "service eng soon" light came on a few days afterwards. Took it back in and they couldn't find a problem (car was running great)and reset the light. Few days later, light came on again...took it back in. They recommended that I replace remaining 5 coils. Since they could not find any problems, and car was running great, I decided to live with the light on rather than spend $700 more. Had always averaged 23-24 in town, and 29-31 on the hwy for the 5 1/2 yrs I've owned the car. In a few weeks, car started acting up and it was a rear coil. Had remaining 5 coils replaced at that point and car still runs great. Here is the problem......my highway miles now are 23-24, and my city miles are 21-22. Took it into the dealer and they can't find anything wrong. Everything is within acceptable parameters. Any ideas why I lost 100 miles per tank full on the highway, and 10% of my city mileage? Again.....this problem started right after I had remaining 5 coils replaced. Anyone have any ideas? Thx!! Kelly
  • PCV valve is located on the back valve cover. Its a real b**ch to get at with all the hoses and the intake mainfold on top of it. Also its a screw on PCV valve, not the regular pull out, push back in. I just bought a replacement PCV valve but haven't replaced it as yet.
  • qdog99qdog99 Posts: 19
    AC DOES NOT BLOW COLD :mad: I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN MAXIMA AND THE AC BLOWS HOT AIR ONLY I HAVE REPLACE THE PART THAT IS ATTACHED TO THE EVAPORATOR IN THE GLOVE BOX
  • holmes12holmes12 Posts: 3
    I have a 91 max. and it keep blowing the eng count fuse please help!!!
  • lansdalelansdale Posts: 7
    ">I have a 93 Nissan Maxima. The car surges and the RPM's fluctuate all the way to 0. The car does not want to go anywhere. After giving it alot of gas it will. The dealer told us to change the ECM. We did that and the problem still exists. Anyone know what to do here?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you need someone to perform a leak test. you may have a leak somewhere in the system and it's becomming de-pressurized. otherwise, maybe the clutch on the compressor isn't kicking in.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    got it fixed today. The dealer, as I suspected, honored the warranty on the cat but also insisted on replacing O2 sensors. He started out with 2 O2 sensors and when he figured that I know a bit about them agreed on replacing just one. He showed a service bulletin where a front Bank 1 O2 sesnsor is mentioned when you get code P0420. That code is for the rear cat but I got code P0430, which is the fron Bank 2 pre-cat. It was imposssible to prove or even get the dealer to provide proof that O2 was defective. At the end I kind of understood that there is no way I could just get the cat replaced under warranty, I have to pay something, so I bargained to pay for front Bank 2 (blue) oxygen sensor, part only and get the cat replaced for free. Can you believe that? At the end, he didn't even care what sensor he would replace for me and I knew that I would pay more at a private shop. So my cost was $175 plus tax for front Bank 2 sensor and the pre-cat. Whoever is reading this - please, please, save yourself some money and don't go to dealers unless your repair is completely covered under warranty. And if anyone is interested, i have a perfectly fine working front bank 2 heated O2 sensor for 2K Maxima (blue) :)
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    same here, it will never go away. It's not that bad, you can't expect more from a 6 year old car. Could be bearings, in general Maxima stock breaks are no good, you gotta live with it
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Hi, I got an OBD2 reader. I can read real time voltages on all 4 O2 sesnors on my 2K Maxima. I can also get fuel trim (rich or lean %). Even though I have an underatannding on how O2 sesnors work, I don't know what the voltages should be. Can someone advise what the readings should be and what is the problem if readings are out of range? If you know of an online article on this then I would take a link too. Thanks
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    stop by Autozone to get your computer scanned for free. They will tell you what the error code was. Then look for that code online and that should point you in the right direction or post the ocde here. Service Engine Soon usually indicates an issue with emissions, it has nothing to do with 30K service.
  • MY ANTENNA ON MY 97 SE (110K) HAS SNAPPED (2ND TIME) DOES ANY ONE HAVE AN IDEA FOR CHEAP REPLACEMENT AND SOMEONE TO INSTALL IN NYC
  • corina2corina2 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Nissn Maxima and the AC is not working properly. When I turn the AC on, only blows air to the windshield and feet; there's no air comming on the face regarless of what buttons I push for the AC.
    If I push the button to get air on the face, all I get is air to the windshield and feet; ...and the same for the rest of the buttons...
    Thank you for any tips!
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Hello I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE. Twice my wife has said the car's battery light stayed on after starting the car. She turned off the ignition switch, however when she restarted the car, the light remained on.
    I start the car and the light is off. The alternator is producing 14 VDC. With air, radio, headlights on-car idling- the voltage reads 12.9 vdc.
    The only time the car has had this problem is first start of the day. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    measure voltage on battery before you start the car and see if it's below threshold.
  • jb13jb13 Posts: 1
    I get a P0138 code, Bank 1, Sensor 2. Which oxygen sensor is this? They seem to be identified by color code on the wire leading to the sensor. (red, blue etc)
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Bank 1 rear sensor. Assuming that you have 4 O2 sensors with 2 cats, this is the last one, located behind your second cat. Color should be black.
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Back this summer, after I started the car, the battery light stayed on along with the parking brake light and seat belt annunciator: parking brake was off and seat belts were fastened. I don't really think it is an alternator problem, but an indication problem behind the dash. It is really an infrequent issue. As all problems go, they start out small and grow from there. I will check the battery voltage.
  • murp01murp01 Posts: 2
    My 2001 is doing the exact same thing, checked battery voltage, it is low.

    Had no problems until I brought car in for detailing and some paint work, they unhooked the battery during the work.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Just curious. Did you check the battery connections since they were last reconnected?
  • murp01murp01 Posts: 2
    yes, everything felt tight
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Same here. No corrosion and the battery terminals are tight. If a low voltage battery was the problem, you would think the battery light would come on more often. My light came on twice in 6 weeks. The problem happens with my wife__ and you know women-- they start the car with the headlights on, radio on and the A/C at max cold. No load shed!! Besides low voltage would cause the starter to drag. I let the car sit over the weekend and it started great. The battery light was out before the engine completely started. Who knows what tomorrow will be?? :)
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    I got an OBD2 reader too but wil not read my Maxima. It will read my Ford and Jeep. $450.00 reader from Snap on. :cry:
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    no, I went with one of those generic OBD2 adapters for your laptop or Palm. They work great with good software and only cost $95. The adapter has ELM327 chip and supposedly supports all OBD2 modes, you just need to get the right software. The problem though is to make sense of all the readings, need the factory manual at the very least...

    It would be very nice to get a separate forum started on OBD2 issues. All specific error code questions could go in there.
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Got a factory Maxima CD on EBAY--$5.00.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    yes I have that, still need to dig in to find the right O2 voltages and need a software to actually plot O2 readings over time. Found something in Engine Control section under General Specifications. Apparently the O2 voltage has to go up and down all the time as the computer adjusts from rich to lean gas mixture conditions. The low voltage should be between 0 and 0.3 and high between 0.6 and 1. As long as those adjustments are within parameters and constant then your O2 is OK... But you have to have no load and run the engine at 2500 rpm...
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Anyone ever did an automatic transmission flush? I saw this one being offered by a local dealer for like $80. Is this any good at all? I remember with older cars they didn't even recommend changing fluid too often and Nissan doesn't even list transmission fluid change as part of any scheduled service...
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    I had mine flushed at the dealer. Seemed to be ok. I am an filter and fluid guy myself. I want to think that is the only way on the Maxima.
  • I've had a 95SE since new and fortunately it has been an exceptionally troublefree car. So far, nothing has gone wrong that I couldn't easily or reasonably fix. Car was made in Japan - maybe that makes a difference?

    Scanning through the posts in this forum, I see that the ignition coils are a big repeat item. Hasn't happened to my car yet, but it makes me nervous...

    What I haven't seen is anyone's assessment of what fails in the coils. Is it the insulation or does the part fail electrically? My point, as always, is - can they be repaired without replacing?

    Would appreciate some discussion on this.
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