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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just purchased a 2007 Maxima. I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to make the doors lock when I place the car in/out of gear. Does anyone know how to do it??
  • I have a 92 Nissan Maxima. Sunday night it started making a awful noise, sounded like metal scraping asphalt under the front of the car. I had been driving it earlier so I have no idea where it came from. It started at turning the car on and the whole 2 miles home. the slower I drove the more noticible the noise, scratching horrible loud noise. I parked and looked under the car, nothing was hanging down or abnormal. I decided to try to start it in the morning to see if the noise persisted, and it did upon trying to back out so I just parked it and it is sitting.
    Any suggestions? does this sound normal to anyone?
    Thanks.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    What is dry lubricant? (lubricate??)

    My driver's side window does the same thing, very annoying squeek.
  • I just leased a 06 Max SE, Demo with 7900k on Aug 8, 06. Last week (9/10), my check engine light came on. Called the dealer,the told me to make a appt for service. Went, and told me they are going to have to get me a rental, because they need to replace a part-some type of converter, and the mechanic does not want me to drive the car. They say something to do with the sensors if I continued to drive. I told them I don't want the car, there was another demo on lot, 06 Se with 5000k. I leased the car through Nissan Motor Corp., but have not made a payment. The dealer told me that I would have to terminate my current lease. Any thoughts.....
  • Hey I have a '01 maxima and i had the same problem with the window squeaking. I had some body work done on the door and I asked the body man to look at it. when I picked up the car, the noise was gone and he said that the window tracks get dry inside the door...not the rubber edge as I suspected. He said all he did was squirt some lubricant on the metal track and the noise went away. Its been 3 months and the window is still quiet.
  • IM sure you have gotten it fixed by now but my 2001 did the same thing, battery light and brake light came on and eventually the car died...unfortunately i was 2 hours away from home on a saturday night. I had it looked at the next day at firestone and they condemned the alternator. $525 later i was back on the road and no problems since.
  • Alot of times when i start my '01 Maxima, when i shift into drive, it doesnt seem to go in right away. When the symptoms are present, it feels kinda like its im driving a manual and the clutch hasnt fully engaged, but after a few secs its fine. Any suggestions or has anyone else run into this?
  • You want a lubricant that has no oil residue. Check around and see if you can find a spray on silicon that dries clear. If you spray WD-40 and such on your seal, it will stop squealing but will leave and oil film on your windows when they go up.
  • Hello, I was wondering if you ever got your car fixed. My Nissan Maxima 93 had the exact same problem. It took about 6 months but the Nissan dealership told us it was the Engine coolant Temp. sensor and the O2 sensors that were bad. so far, it is working a ok.
  • I have a question that a few of us are arguing about. Will a bad O2 sensor make the gas mileage bad? I have a 93 Nissan Maxima. We just had the Engine cooland Temp. sensor replaced because it was stalling and surging really bad. They told us that the O2 sensor was bad also. Any more ideas or thoughts on this? :confuse:
  • the O2 sensors can directly affect the gas mileage, but they generally will not cause a stalling or surging problem. Did the CTS take care of that?
  • I'm having the same kind of problem started doing it tonight. If you find out any thing please let me know. To me it sounds like the shifter cable but I'm just not sure. My shifter just wont shift i have to wiggle it a bunch of times and then it will go out of park.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Is spraying this lubricant on something that I can do without taking the door apart? If so, where do I spray it?

    Sorry to sound like such a dolt. I'm one of those who usually takes the car to a mechanic or the dealer for whatever is needed.
  • Well, I figured it did. Its not stalling anymore or surging like it was. It's surging a very little bit when sitting still. We are having the O2 sensor replaced this week. Then if it doesn't work back to the dealership it goes. :confuse:
  • its gonna be on the front side of the window, thats where mine was squeaking...the guy told me he sprayed some "watered-down"
    Armor All down the window track and that apparently took care of it. Probably best to do it with the window all the way down and apply it to the front side of the window edge and just let it run down.
  • nothing wrong with getting the parts replaced, it's a lease, you are covered all the way even if it breaks again. But if you want to foce the dealer to replace the car then look into the lemon law for your state. Generally if you get a car with excessive issues then lemon law could apply.
  • I saw many questions on O2 sensors so I figured I'd put in my 5 cents. O2 sensor measures the amount of oxygen in your exhaust and depending on that amount it determines if your gas-to-air mixture is lean or rich. The mixture will never be perfect and the the O2 sensor will send a signal to the computer to increase or decrease the amount of injected gas to bring it as close to perfect as possible. This happens many times per second and a good O2 sensor will make the computer constantly switch from lean to rich so that in the long run you get close to perfect mixture. So, yes, bad O2 sensor will cause an incorrect amount of gas to be injected, most likely more then necessary. A non working O2 sensor actually causes your car to go into the closed loop and the most gas is burned. O2 sensors start operating at high temperatures and therefore they don't work when you start the car in the morning. This is why you get high rpms in the morning until the car worms up and starts using the O2 sensor.
  • Hello, I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima Se. Very Recently the clutch start to feel very spongy. Now, when pressed it will not come all the way back without me pulling it up. And when fully depressed it is hard to get the car in gear.
    Does anyone know what this might be?
    Thank you.
  • I know that premium grade is recommended, but not required. I've been using mid-grade (between premium & regular) for over a year now and it's been running fine. I am thinking about switching it to regular grade since it's a 10-yr old car now. Any pros and cons? BTW, my friend at work has a '96 Maxima and he has almost 300K miles , amazing engine... According to him, nothing major has been done to his car
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Wait until you're low on fuel and then pump in about half a tankful of 87 pump octane regular grade. Several miles should tell you whether the motor will ping on the cheap juice. (On a high mileage car, it might because of carbon build-up on combustion chamber surfaces.) If no pinging occurs under heavy load, you're good to go - the knock sensors are telling the ECM to dial back ignition advance enough to avoid damaging pre-ignition. All you give up are single digit amounts of top end power which is unlikely to be noticeable unless you drive competitively or haul heavy loads. However, if you do hear staccato pinging (sounds kinda like marbles bouncing around in an empty tin can - more intense when you floor the accelerator), fill the tank up the rest of the way with 91 octane unleaded premium. The mix will effectively end up close to 89 pump octane mid-grade. Thereafter, stick 89 pump octane mid-grade.
  • I have a 2005 Maxima that I purchased brand new about a year ago. I have really enjoyed the car and the service that I have been receiving from the service area at the local dealership dispite the constant vibration I have been having. I have had all of my scheduled maintenance performed on the car with no problems. I have about 18K miles on the car and about a month ago all hell broke loose. My brake light and battery light came on and would not go off. The TCS off light, slip light, ABS light also came on and sporadically came off and on during driving. I have taken the car in several times to have the car worked on by Nissan technicians with no result. They have replaced several parts on the car that did not need to be replaced as the Nissan Engineers instructed the service technician to do so when trouble shooting. The gauge board was replaced and they said that this would fix the initial problems. Well it did not fix it. So I take it back in 1 day later and they keep the car a couple more days and then they say Oh the alternator has to be replaced. I'm thinking on a practically brand new car. Once that was replaced that fixed the battery and brake light problem. I went to pick up the car and the same day the TCS off light, Slip light, ABS light and the Brake light continued to come back on and remain on. So I take the car back to the shop the very next day and they have to keep the car about 3 more days and then they tell me the Control Amp has to be replaced in order to fix the problem. They perform the work and then I go to pick the car and not 5 minutes later after I leave the dealership/service area all the lights come back on. I immediately turn around so that I can show them the lights are back on. So now have my car, which they have stated, they need to keep for another week or so. As stated by the service advisor the technicians have been on the phone constantly with the Nissan Engineers and they state that now the Wiring Harness that needs to be replace in order to fix the problem. I am so frustrated that I literally pulling my hair out. So my next step I have to complain and voice my concerns with NissanUSA Consumer Relations and expressed that I purchased a brand new car with the expectations that I would not have all these problems. My thing is that my car will never be the same now that all of these major parts have been replaced and several parts, which did not even need to be replaced. I thinking about if I keep this car what other problems will I have later that are a result of the current problems I am having with the car after the manufactures warranty has expired. I advised them that I want the car I paid for and obviously it is not the one that has been in and out of the shop. I am pulling my hair about this because my car will never be the same and when it gets to the point that anything wiring has to be replaced I am seriously worried. So I asked that NissanUSA replace my car with a new car. Which I am awaiting for a response. I'm in NC so I may need to pursue the lemon law on this with the dealer. If anyone can provide me any advise or elaborate more I would really appreciate it.

    Thank you, :lemon:
  • My service engine light came on and I took it to Autozone to have them read the code. They said it was a Electronic Level Control (ELC) error and didn't know what the fix was for this. I don't have ELC on this car. Any suggestions?
  • This wording is wrong, may be electronically controlled engine mount? Each error has a code associated with it. I would go back and ask them to scan again and give you the actual code.
  • I've got a 1997 Nissan Maxima with 170,000 miles and I've loved it since the day I got it, but recently, I took the car on a cross country trip and encountered some problems along the way. About 200 miles or so into the trip, my check engine light came on and the car began to run a bit rough. I was able to limp it a few miles down the road to an Autozone where it was diagnosed that there was a misfire on the number 1 cylinder. I took off the coil pack (which came out in pieces... had to be replaced) and soon found that the spark plug inside was covered in oil as was the lower portion of the coil pack. The spark plug had broken somewhere in the middle, leaving the ceramic portion still firmly attached to the engine. When I finally removed the spark plug I had two pieces with a third piece lost into the engine. Here's what I had: the ceramic piece attached to the threading, the top metal piece that makes contact with the coil pack (which could easily be removed from the ceramic) and the tip of spark plug was lost. All that being said, I was able to replace the plug and coil pack and then get back on the road for another 800 miles without any problems, but now a month later, I was doing some routine maintenance (plugs, air filter, pcv valve, etc.) and I realized that there was again a large amount of oil on top of and surrounding the spark plug, but this time, the spark plug was intact. My question is why in the world is there a buildup of oil. The coilpack was submerged in oil and frankly, I'm surprised that the car is still running okay. Any ideas???
  • My 2000 Maxima SE (95K miles) has recently started to make a scraping noise when turning right in parking garages etc...
    I have been unable to find anything that may be hanging down for the wheel to rub against. Are there any known causes for this?
  • Go to groups.google.com and search for 'maxima oil in spark plug chamber'. Click on the first item in the list, it contains a pretty good description of what's going on.
  • I had the same problem on my 2005 Maxima and I had to have the alternator replaced as requested by the Nissan Engineers during trouble shooting steps with the technician at the dealership. So you may want to take it in to be sure.
  • I just purchased a 2006 Maxima SE, brand new. Driving home I felt a vibration in the steering wheel. It happens at various speeds and on various surfaces. I'm going in on Monday to the dealer to try and have the issue addressed. I was told that it could be that the wheels need to be balanced or the rack needs to be tightened. Does anyone think this will fix the problem? Are there other questions/issues I need to ask/raise while I'm there?
  • Wonder if this is a known problem (my car is a 95 SE).

    When I use the key fob remote to open the doors, they often relock themselves a second later. It happens right after the second button push to open all four doors. I don't thonk it happens when I do a single push to open the driver's door. I do think it has happened when a door is slammed closed (after all four are unlocked).

    Anyone dealt with this before?
    Thanks.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I saw some comments from people who had hood bras on late model Maximas and that caused vibrations on highway...
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