Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

1117118120122123136

Comments

  • suydamsuydam Posts: 931
    We have an '01 GLE and have been very happy with the Bridgestone Turanza LS-H.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    I have a 2003 Max SE and replaced the OEM Potenzas at 34k miles with Yokohama AVID V4S bought from TireRack.com and installed locally. After 10k miles, I am still happy with them and they barely show any wear. Prices vary considerably so shop around. The tirerack web site is a very good starting point for tire research IMO. Good hunting.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Looked on Tirerack and appears the Goodyear Eagle Response Edge and the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity would both be good choices.

    We drove (slowly!) about 70 miles on the doughnut, and will probably put another 30 - 40 on it before we get the new tires. Anyone know when the doughnut tire itself should be replaced? How many miles can they have on them before they become unsafe themselves?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I got those same Yoko's from tire rack for my 02 SE and they are great wet and dry.
  • pernaperna Posts: 533
    Bridgestone Turanza LS-Vs. They are night and day from the OEM Potenzas. It civilizes the ride without losing the handling, and are MUCH better on wet and snow-covered roads.
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    Well it depends.
    hopefully , you placed them on the rear wheels. With smaller footprint they provide less traction on dry pavement and while cornering. My guess they can last at least 1000 miles, but if I were you I'll replace them right away. BTW one good thing about getting VDC is getting full size spare.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Yes, it's on a rear wheel.

    We ordered the Goodyear Eagle Response Edge, four new ones. Supposed to get them in later this afternoon or tomorrow.

    So it's safe to keep the doughnut spare for additional use, if necessary? This is the second time we've had to use it. Only put a few miles on it last time, but around 100 this time.
  • masetimemasetime Posts: 3
    I am having the exact same problem as you. Did you ever figure out the cause?

    A little more background about my symptoms: my '97 maxima has always been stubborn about turning over. It has often not turned over on the first try, but then after I push the brake down or turn the steering wheel and try again it has always started up just fine.

    Today it won't budge. It just makes that clicking sound and I see a little pulley move near the engine, but that's it.

    Any ideas?
  • masetimemasetime Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out what was causing your problem? I am currently having a nearly identical problem. When I try to start it makes a single "click" and then nothing else happens. It never tries to turn over.

    Any ideas?
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    I replaced the thermostat last week, made sure the radiator was full and then with the outside temperature reaching a mere 85 degrees, with the A/C on and driving in slow rush hour traffic it heated up again. Both fans are running and nothing is obstructing the radiator. If I can keep the car running at at least 50 MPH it stays cool, otherwise it heats up. Any other thoughts as to what could cause this?
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    So you are saying that with both fans on it still overheats, while going 50MPH it does not? I can't make any sense out of it, the natural airflow is enough but the fans are not?! Or could it be that driving steadily doesn't produce as much heat as stop and go driving? Was the coolant drained from the engine at any point? Maybe there's air trapped? If so, you may want to wait until the engine is cold, take off the radiator cap and run the engine until it warms up. This should purge all the air from the engine. Also, how old is you radiator cap? Those go bad too. Finally, there are two temp sensors - one for the ECU and one for the gauge. Could it be that either one is bad? Chilton or Haynes should have the procedure to test them.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,564
    I couldn't make sense out of that either. My only thought was maybe a partly clogged radiator that worked better with the water pump spinning at high speeds. But air in the system is a possibility.

    Usually, a low speed overheat but not a high speed overheat is an air circulation problem. A high speed overheat but not a low speed overheat is a water circulation problem. That's how it usually works.

    MODERATOR

  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    I had the radiator flushed about 2 years ago, coincidentally when this issue showed up. The radiator cap is 10 years old (original). I'll give taking off the cap and running the engine a shot. Then I'll look into the temp sensors. I also thought about the clogged port like Mr_Shiftright mentioned. Maybe I'll try flushing the system before messing with the sensors. I'll keep you posted.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,564
    The radiator can be flow-tested. Sometimes flushing is just a waste of time---it's too clogged for flushing in many instances.

    MODERATOR

  • dezz1dezz1 Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima. The car would not start and I had to get a jump start to get it going again. I bought a new battery and I had no problems until recently, two weeks since the new battery was installed. When I go to start the car, it sounds as if it might not start but it ends up starting. If i drive it for about 1/2 hour then turn it off, after 5 mins, when I try to restart the car, it sounds as if the battery is about to give out. I end up giving it another try and it turns on. I'm afraid it will not turn on at all. Does anyone know what might be the problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,564
    I think you need to have alternator output checked

    MODERATOR

  • ceylon1ceylon1 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 maxima with the same problem, but its 90 degrees outside and it won't start in the mornings. It takes a few tries then it starts. For the rest of the day the car is normally fine its just the mornings. What could this be??? I need to get this fixed now because I have someone buying it.
  • dezz1dezz1 Posts: 5
    I had several people give me different possibilities as to why my car won't start right away or why it has a weak start. The ignition coils might need to be replaced, it might be the starter, it might be a short, it might be the alternator. I took back the battery that I just bought at AutoZone to have them check if the battery is good or if it is being drained by my alternator. The guy there seemed to think that it is not the alternator because it would drain my battery. Anyway, before determining that my battery is good, my brother helped me take off the battery and he said he might have found out my problem. The cord/hose that connects to the minus (-) part of the battery (excuse my own terminology)came off basically on its own where as the plus (+) cord/hose needed some time to unscrew. He said it was not snug and was probably not making proper contact. Apparently the minus side of the new battery is somewhat thinner that the battery that came with the car when I bought it. My brother tightened it as much as possible but ended up having to put a piece of metal to make it snug. This frightens me but he assures me it will be fine. The car has started just fine these last couple of days. I hope that my problem was fixed, i will keep you posted. I recommend checking all parts to make sure nothing is lose before having to spend lots of unecesary money.
  • robdgrobdg Posts: 2
    I have a 97 Maxima GLE, and I'm having some radio issues. I feel I can handle those, but taking apart the center console to get at the radio is causing me some problems. I can get the paneling around the shifter and cigarette lighter out, and get out the bottom two screws to the radio assembly, but I can't for the life of me figure out how to access the top two screws of the radio/ac console. Any help?
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    IIRC, you pull out the vent panel first. You can pry it a bit with a screwdriver wrapped in electrical tape, but I was able to do it with bare hands. Just pull it straight out.
  • robdgrobdg Posts: 2
    That got it. Turns out I was just being a bit to gentle with it the first time around. Thanks a lot man.
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    we have a 2005 nissan maxima se that we love well a couple a weeks back someone scraped the rear bumper and now the paints coming off. wanted to know if we can just buy a new bumper cover and if it comes painted already and how to remove the old one and put new one on if you can help let us know thanks
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    In my opinion, they are useless. Parked on a public street or even with your own garage, at one point you will be parked in a public spot and get a scratch. you can go to any shop , they will remove old paint , put primer and paint over it. Only person with a trained eye will see that a car has old paint and bumper is all new.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    I don't believe they come painted, and removing it is fairly easy - should be just a few plastic clips, maybe a screw or two.
  • heart2heart2 Posts: 38
    Went to dealer for my free oil change; car only has 36K miles. Of course they look to make money on other items. Told I need new belts (original so prob correct), power steering fluid dirty and brake fluid need changing. Cost was from another planet. Told them I'd think about it and will go to my local very trusted mechanic. What are the belts in this car? I'm used to my other cars with just one serpentine belt. Does anyone change these fluids? I've never done that in my previous cars and they did fine for over 100K. Thanks.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    There are two belts, and they should not be worn at 36k, if they are cracked a bit across the ribs, that's normal.

    Power steering fluid is the same fluid as in your transmission - guess which one works harder? I would leave it alone for the life of the car.

    Now, the brake fluid, considering the car is 7 years old, has absorbed some water, so I would definitely replace it.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 931
    My '01 Maxima (75000 miles) has never had any of those items done yet. Since your car has such low miles, it might have been sitting outside and not run for long periods of time. That can contribute to premature wear sometimes.
  • dezz1dezz1 Posts: 5
    I ended up taking my 2001 maxima to the dealer because of my start problem. I was told it was the starter and I had to replace it. There was nothing wrong with the battery or its connectors. The car has been starting great since then and counting. But...about 4 hours after leaving the dealer my Service Engine Soon light came on. I went back the next day to see if they could tell me what might be wrong. I was upset that they wanted another $91 for another diagnosis, after I had just spent over $500 on a new starter. They said that it had nothing to do with the starter so I had to pay for another diagnosis. I left quite upset thinking that I would take it to a local mecanic to see if they would tell me what was wrong. It didn't get to that because the light turned off on its own just about 5 days after the new starter was installed. Since the light turned off, should I bother to take it in just in case?
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    go to your dealer and demand money back for misdiagnosis
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    To remove the starter, you need to unhook a couple of sensors - a MAF sensor, and an air intake temp sensor, if I remember correctly. If they forgot to plug those back in, it would turn the SES light on.
Sign In or Register to comment.