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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 95 SE 5 spd (purchased May 94). Normally when you jack up the car and grab a tire top and bottom there should be no noticeable play in/out top or bottom.

    Many years ago I had a rt front wheel bearing fail (warranty expired) and after I took it to my dealer 3 times and explaining that there was play in that tire, they wouldn't do anything (thought it was normal, since they also sold Buicks). I finally had an independent garage fix it, and by then the failed bearing had eaten into the axle, requiring a hub assembly.

    At somewhere over 100,000 miles I had struts replaced (stut boots had disintegrated, and strut bearings were clunking when turning wheel at low speed). They also replaced front lower control arms because one of the bushings had migrated. I had them both replaced since I do competition driving (high speed autocross).

    13 years old and still going strong. Never any internal engine, clutch, trans, or A/C problems at all (just injectors and O2 sensors).
  • thankyou i will have it checked do you know how much the cost would be in your point of view
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Replacement IAC would run about $ 150 dealer retail with about another $100 in labor to install and test. If you have a service manual around you could try and clean and reinstall it as sometimes its due to dirt and carbon clogging it up rather than a part failure.
  • My 95 Maxima just started giving me problems in the cold weather. It has a very low idle at cold starting, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator to keep it running! Once warmed up, it's fine. Are we looking at a Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor issue?
  • konelkonel Posts: 3
    I have a 89 maxima and for some reason the heater and defroster stopped blowing hot air.I checked to make sure the valve is opening for the hot water supply to get to the heater core but it still does not get hot.Could it be the thermastat? Any suggestions as to what I should look for.Thanks :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    Check your coolant level. If it's very low you won't get heat in the car.

    MODERATOR

  • I had the same type of issue with my 2000 maxima. I noticed that the car after 3500 rpm was choking. I decided to change the MAF and it resolved the problem.
  • konelkonel Posts: 3
    I checked the coolant level as one of the first things and it was fine.I did notice that the heater hose going into the heater core gets fairly hot but the return line is cold to the touch.Is it possi :confuse: ble the heater core is clogged.I don't really know much about them but I was thinking it is similsr to a radiator or is this wrong?
    Thanks Konel
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Did you check the radiator or the overflow tank? Sometimes one is full while the other isn't.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    How did you check the heater valve exactly? It's really rare for a heater core to be completely plugged up. It can happen but it's unusual.

    If you have hot water going in but not coming out it's either a massive clog or a bad valve. That's about it.

    You could take compressed air to one of the hoses and blast it through.

    Let's see, what else. You could have a bad water pump but then the car would overheat pretty darn quick.

    MODERATOR

  • konelkonel Posts: 3
    I went to the line going into the heater core that has the valve in it and I disconnected the vacum line that pulls the valve open.Then I manualy engaged the valve lever. I know the valve is working because before I moved the valve the heater hose is getting hot up to but not beyond the valve,Once I open the valve the hose gets hot on the back side of the valve going into the heater core but the return hose
    back to the engine never gets even warm. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    You might try that compressed air trick I mentioned.

    MODERATOR

  • My 1999 Maxima has the same problem. Once it happened the "Service Engine Soon" light will be on. How did you fix it? Thanks for your kind reply.
    Ben
  • How does one go about re-setting the sun roof on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. It opens but wont close all the way. When you open it, it stops about every 3-4 inches then it would not close and after messing with the button it closed but not tight. Then I finally got it to close and have not opened for fear of not being able to close it. Somewhere I heard of re-setting the computer, but I dont know the procedure to do that...
    Thanks for any and all help in advance,
    Billy08
  • GP, shimed in and gave me this procedure to re-program the sun roof on my 2004 Maxima.
    Billy,

    I am a Nissan rep and have seen this many times. Ussualy happens after changing a battery but it could be anything. Your absolutley right it is not a motor it just needs to be reprogrammed. I have heard some dealers try charge for a power motor for the roof etc,etc... But all you have to do to reprogram it is. Hold the button to open. It will open partially. Once that happens hold the button again to open. It will go back further. Now continue this process till the roof opens completely. Than proceed to close the roof in the same fashion all the way untill it tilts up and than back down to closed position. That is the process to reprogram the roof. It may take a couple of cycles but it will work! After the first attempt try it. Good luck. The whole process should take 5 minutes or less. DOn't let anyone tell you different. I have done plenty of these.

    GP
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    but 04+ MAXIMA USES SLIDER TO OPEN ROOF AND BUTTON TO SLIDE IT UP
  • jay116jay116 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a nissan maxima 3.5SE. I currently have 3800 miles. The dealer service manual reccommends service at 3750 miles. Should I service the vehicle and follow the manual or should I wait to maybe 5000 miles or another recoomended mielage amount. Also, should I go to the dealer to service my vehicle since my car is new still under warranty? Or should i go elsewhere to service my vehicle like a firestone?
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    since its your baby, if I were you, I will take care of it and follow manual's , not dealer's maintenance procedures. Some can be skipped. I personally baby my car with syntetic oil every 3750 miles major maintenance at 15000 and transmission oil/coolant flash every 30000. Now under normal conditions, your front brakes should last 40k+ and tires ( if you have originals) 60K.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,439
    My sisters car, so debugging long distance... Hasn't been running right for a few months. Based on the symptoms (see below) I thought bad plug wire or coil pack, but that seems to have been tried. Anyone have a bright idea? Fuel pump?

    A/T, about 70K on it I think.
    ####################

    It's been in 3 times and yesterday they said it was fine. I drove 1 mile home and it started to miss-fire pulling in the garage. I went out an hour later to a restaurant in town and it was a bucking bronco every time I had to idle. It runs fine as long as my foot is on the gas. I've had a coil and injector, plugs and filters replaced

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • I have an 03 Maxima GLE that I bought new. Sometimes, after stopping for a traffic light for example, I'll step on the gas to resume travel and nothing happens for about a second or two and then it kicks in - during all of this time the shift handle has remained in the same Drive position (I'm not manually shifting through D1, D2, etc.).
    This did happen once or twice in the past and I figured it would never be reproducible at the dealership, but the other night it made itself very obvious when it hesitated off the line for longer than just a couple of seconds, and during the hesitation period it was obvious that the car was ever so slowly moving forward until it finally kicked fully into gear. My car has only 30K miles on it but is out of warranty (the three year default warranty). Question - is there a TSB that would cover this (this is not a fluid leakage problem), and isn't there a drive train warranty that covers this for a longer period of time? Thanks for any help with this.
  • oveyovey Posts: 2
    I have a 91 maxima, low miles for the age (abour 110). One day it just started running very rough, like a cylinder wasn't firing. I don't know enough to diagnose it though. Mechanic said one piston wasn't firing due to clogged fuel injector. Naturally, it's like a million dollars to replace it (and the rest, might as well based on the age). I tried some fuel injector cleaner off the shelf, but it didn't work. The car isn't worth but $1200 so I don't want to spend much to get it running smoothly - any ideas? Thanks!
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 14,439
    Well, the other culprits for that symptom are a bad coil pack (although i don't know if a '91 has individual coil packs, the little gizmo that sits on top of each spark plug boot), or even simpler, a bad spark plug wire.

    I had this problem on my Contour once. It suddenly started running like a threshing machine, and it turned out to be a broken plug wire. new wires and it ran like new.

    You can also have the injectors cleaned instead of replacing them. And it only 1 is bad, you don't really have to replace them all at the same time.

    If you haven't ever done plugs and wires, might want to do that anyway.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (daughter stole that one), and 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again)

  • dgm1974dgm1974 Posts: 4
    Hello, I just bought a 1991 nissan maxima last sunday, & it has problem like it doesnt shift to 3rd gear anymore. Have any idea what is the problem? The seller said its probably the speed sensor as per mechanic said to him. The speedometer is no longer working too.Any help? Thanks. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    I think your car is too old for electronic shift technology. You'd best check your fluid level and if it's okay have a service done and filter change. If that doesn't cure it, you'll probably have to have a transmision shop look it over. It might be a sticking valve body, which I suspect is the case, or some other type of "internal leak".

    MODERATOR

  • dgm1974dgm1974 Posts: 4
    Thank you mr. shiftright. I will do what you've adviced. I'll post what happen nxt time.God bless..
  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    I have a 99 Maxima with $205K miles on it. My service engine light has been on for as long as I can remember. I had Autozone check it and the machine pulled codes P0400(Blocked or failed EGR valve) and P0138 (O2 sensor defective). I also had it checked by my mechanic a couple weeks later and he said no code was present and cleared it for me. Of course, a day later the light is back on. My questions are:

    Would autozone have a better reader and that's why codes were present?

    Can a mechanic tell if the O2 sensor and EGR valve is defective before replacing it?

    My car is running relatively good for the mileage and i would hate to spend $350 to $700 replacing these parts if its not going to make a difference.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    Is your car eating gas? Stalling or running a bit rough? Do you get a rotten egg smell from under the car?

    MODERATOR

  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    The last four times I've filled up I gotten between 23 - 26.5 miles a gallon, which is about average. The only thing I notice is when I decelerate and than hit the gas to pick up speed, the switching of gears is not that smooth.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,805
    The EGR valve can be tested with a simple vacuum tool; the 02 is harder to diagnose, but a good mechanic can do it with a sophisticated voltmeter (not a cheapie) and with the car running. He can also put a machine on to sniff the tailpipe to see if you are running richer than normal and therefore possibly damaging the catalytic.

    MODERATOR

  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. I went to AutoZone today and now the only code is the EGR valve. I guess the O2 sensor got better - lol.
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