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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    For those interested, I fixed my car bucking, hesitation and stalling. I had a code for multiple cylinder misfire along with a knock sensor code. The problem was coming from a short caused in the ECM wiring harness located behind the glove box against the condenser casing. The harness has a sharp bent against the edge of the condenser case and that will cause some of the wires to strip. In my case, the wires for the crankshaft sensor and the air temperature sensor were shorted out at this location. I fixed the wires and I don't experience any of the previous problems, nor do my check engine light come on anymore. In case you experience this same problem, you can tell by wiggling the ECM wiring harness located in the engine compartment by the right strut tower. Do this when the engine is running. If the engine stalls you know that it is coming from the wiring harness. There is actually a bulletin for this problem. However Nissan tells you that the short may happen on the harness located in the engine compartment by the right strut tower. Well, in my case the short was coming from inside the car although you can wiggle the harness from inside the engine compartment and simulate the short in wiring if it is there.
  • aikido2aikido2 Posts: 5
    I'll check those two items and let you know what happens.
    Thanks again
  • nycer25nycer25 Posts: 1
    Hi. I have a 2000 Maxima GLE. I noticed a few weeks ago that my acceleration is noticably weaker, and I'm able to press the pedal all the way to the metal without nearly the usual surge in speed. What is the likely cause of this? I haven't had any major problems up until now. I also haven't replaced the battery yet in 5 years. Is this a possibility? Thanks for any replies!
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    I think your problem is a bad water pump, but a pressure test can help a mechanic find the source of the leak, if it isn't obvious. Good luck.
  • sobhanvsobhanv Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    Would like to know if anyone had a similar experience and the advise.Recently my Maxima 2002 had a front bearing failure .this i think is very unusual as i havent heard a similar thing from anyone till now.The car has put up 90000 miles.In the past i had to get the rotor /brake job done for 6 times due to warping and i have an inkling that this might have contibute do the damage to the bearings due to the abnormal vibrations

    Any comments ,thanks in advance

  • sharihsharih Posts: 1
    My dh has a 2000 Nissan Max that he adores and runs rampant with... We live in the dusty country and it now has 98 k plus miles... It has run like a little top and we have not really maintained it well over the years and this is our first problem... Just replaced the ordinary air filter(dirty) and put in reg Shell gas lately... It has been brought up on reg Exxon Mobil gas though...

    Problem: ;)

    2 wks later it is dying and stalling and we did the code thing today and got codes p0731 and p0171. We do have an extended warranty...

    Can someone advise further ? and is any of this stuff possibly replaceable by us?
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    I had a similar problem. The knock sensor was faulty (it will retard the timing and it will feel like there is no power on acceleration). However, among other things you could have a clogged fuel filter, a clogged air filter, or a bad fuel pump.
    If knock sensor is faulty it won't bring the ‘check engine light’ on. However it will store a code if bad. You can have the people at AutoZone check if any codes are stored. Oh, also, make sure you are using good grade fuel.
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    Code 0731: A/T first gear signal fault. I'm not sure if this code relates with your present problem, altough there is a possibility.

    Code P0171: fuel injection system lean (right bank)

    There could be a problem with the Mass air flow sensor. Since the MAFS is by the air filter and you just replaced the filter, make sure the wiring and the connector for the MAFS is connected and ok. And, hopefully you didn't have to remove the MAFS, if you did make sure the clamps are tight.

    You could have a vacuum leak somewhere.... listen for hissing noises in the engine compartment.

    You could have an exhaust leak. Listen for exhaust leaks before or by the 02 sensor.

    You could have a bad injector seal.

    You could have incorrect fuel pressure (fuel pump)
  • kzakkzak Posts: 13
    I wish I would'va known that a week ago...I kept posting messages and no one had responses, and after 6 tries at Tires Plus, I took it to the dealer...he said the same thing, a random misfire and replaced all 6 ignition coils for a cost of $630 :cry: ...oh well, at least it stopped shaking/vibrating...
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    Ok I am going to buy a water pump and have hubby take a crack at it. Any advice? We have the Hayes manual and that helps a lot. I wonder will he need any special tools?

    Anyone have water pump replacement experience?

    I acutally see a light at the end of the tunnel. :)
  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Hey, don't just take my blind advice, although I think I'm correct, have someone look at the car and see if you can locate where the coolant is coming from. Rent a pressure tester if needed, just don't overpressure the system - follow directions. The red flag to me was the squealing noise, which would seem to indicate the pump bearing was failing as well as the seal, so that its leaking and hanging up the belt.

    I have not replaced one on my Max, but in my past cars you basically disconnect the belt, drain coolant from the radiator, access the pump and remove it, reinstall. But being an import there are probably a lot of items to remove to get to the pump. Suggest a Haynes or Nissan manual, or a good shop.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • dobrydobry Posts: 7
    Hi I have problem with starting my Maxima 1997 when is hot weather :).I turn a key in ignition and nothink happend only can here "click click" sound form fuses in dashbord.Sometimes it help when i push fuse number 17 ENG CONT middle row sixth form the bottom.I change fuse bot still the same sometimes helps when i hit the dasbord :P where fueses are located.Any body have this kind of problem or know how to fix it.I try to find solution on ineternet but i couldn`t.
  • qgirlqgirl Posts: 1
    We have an '01 Maxima GLE that is on it's 3rd set of brakes and rotors in 45K. I am disheartened to hear that you've had 6 sets. Been told rotors should last at least 50k. How much to fix your current problem? Only asking because we'll probably have it in the future.... :(

    Thanks for posting!

  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Be glad it's not an Armada. We've got folks with rotors going in the first 3k miles. I just had mine replaced for being "out of round" at 7k.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    For that type of work you really need a shop manual. Hayes' are ok but mechanics use shop manuals which have more detail. You can get them online.
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    Thanks I did not know that, where can I get one? Would the public library have one? Places like PepBOys, O'Reily's or NAPA? The dealership? How much should I expect to pay?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Check back to post 2091. There is a link in that post. I think you can only get them from Nissan. That post says about $20.
  • Hey I have a 97 Maxima for over a year, and I love it, but recently (last 2 months or so) I've had problems with the car starting to shake/vibrate when I slow down. This problem does not happen constantly, its fairly random except that it only occurs when the car is well warmed up (approx 10 miles of driving) and is in either in Drive or reverse and the brake is pressed full. Also, sometimes during motion in the range of around 45-55 mph, I notice a sudden and random loss of power with the rpm's falling to a range of 300-400. :cry:
    I have just replaced my knock sensor, 1 spark plug boot (there was a misfire), water pump, oil pressure switch, increased the rpm's on the idle, and ran a computer diagnostic, which previously showed O2 sensor problems, but as of yesterday showed all clear after the knock sensor was replaced.

    I am at a loss as to what to do :confuse: , and financially this is becoming a burden.
    Oh, and my gas consumption is odd I get a full tank in 230 miles or so, shouldn't it be more?
    I will greatly appreciate any help anyone can offer, many thanx in advance
  • dianardianar Posts: 3
    Hey! I hope someone can shed some light on this for me. Immediately after my car started, it shook almost violently [scared me to death!]. Keep in mind, this car's nickname is "Cream Puff" because it drives like a dream at 82K miles.

    I turned the car off, then restarted it again with the severe vibration still happening, but to a lesser degree. By the time I popped the hood and got out to look at belts, etc., the car was starting to calm back down. Turned it off again and it restarted a third time without any significant shaking. I drove my daughter to school and I came into work with no trace of anything wrong while on the road.

    What in the world could possibly cause this? A very similar situation happened about 2.5 years ago and after leaving it for two nights with my mechanic, he could find nothing wrong with it. And of course, it started right up; no problem.

    Any ideas? Thx!
  • mert2mert2 Posts: 74
    how you holding up hound97?
    I bought a 2000 maxima with 45K on it last month.

    rear o2 sensor reprogramming: $80
    idle control valve: $450
    towing: $60
    replace rear o2 sensor: $250
    check a/c: $80

    Now I find out these cars have a lot of MAF problems and ignition coil problems, so I've got a thousand more in repairs to look forward to.

    Plus the a/c is substandard for the 100 degree days we get around here. I'm already looking, should've stuck with toyota.
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