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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • phopho Posts: 9
    What is evaporator core? Where it located? Can I fix it myself? Please advise,thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    It's located in the dash between the a/c controls and the firewall. What you need to do is to get under the car and look in that area beneath the car for a hose that connects to it. Once you find that hose you can stick a wire into it and try to clear it. Careful if its full of water, it will dump on you.

    Better yet have a mechanic look at it on you next oil change if you can wait that long.
  • replacing the fuel pump fixed the problem. too bad the dealership had to replace it twice because they screwed up the first time.

    yeah i had the engine coil problem too, unrelated to this one.
  • albabyalbaby Posts: 1
    My 2006 Maxima was a nice car initially. At 21,000 miles, my tire(s) went out of round. It felt tlike the tire weights had fell off. The only solution is to replace all four tires, since you can't really replace one tire. The tires were Continental rejects I think. So, I bought 4 Michelins at Costco, cost just under $900. After paying $35,000. for a car, I had expected the tires to last 40-50,000 miles at that price. Then I discovered that these tires were falling apart all over the internet. Nissan cut corners or got sold a bill of goods by Continental. Cost a whole lot in customer good will.
    Then battery died at 28,00 miles. Not a big deal, but annoying as Hell. Sears has a 5 yr. battery for $70 or so. What's wrong with the buyers? Then my radio/cd/sirius panel died at 31,000. Yes they replaced it under the warranty, but it took them a month to get the replacement from Panasonic. I was told that they had too many returns to keep up with demand. Yikes.! This is supposed to be a luxury type sedan.
    I checked the label on the Hood to be sure it's a Maxima, and not a Saturn!
  • I am having the same problem with my 2003 Maxima GLE. Were you able to remedy the problem by yourself or did you need to take it in? If by yourself, how did you locate it? If at a mechanic or dealer, what should I ask them to check out, so I don't have them looking for everything?
  • phopho Posts: 9
    I could not located the drain plug under the car. I went to my machanic last week & found out the AC drain was clogged. I found no more condensation for the last few days.If you can find the plug you can do it yourself or wait until next oil change.Good luck.
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    I have a '97 maxima with the same issue. I've been having this problem for about 2 years now. Any luck on finding the issue? I have had none yet.
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    For some reason, the AC in my 97 maxima does not blow cold air unless the car is moving at any speed greater than 35 mph. The fans are both running fine, the coolent level is good and the a/c refridgerant is fully charged. Any thoughts on why the car has to be moving to get cool air out of the a/c?
  • Last week my 99 Maxima with 110,000 miles had all spark plugs and the #3 and #6 ignition coils replaced. It drove 95% better then within 2 days it was back to its old poor intermittant acceleration and knocking in idle mode. Yesterday, the SES light came on.

    I suppose the remaining 4 coils will need replaced? Hope to have a family member do this as my garage charged me $155 for one coil, excluding labor. Dropped almost $500 including scanner test + labor. :(

    My other thought is maybe an O2 sensor is dying. Suppose Pep Boys or Auto Zone could figure that out for a few bucks?

    Does anyone know the location placement of #3 and #6 coils? Thanks.

    I guess too changing the transmission fluid and fuel filter may help.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    After 9 years $500 is cheap in terms of maintenance costs. On top of what you mentioned, you should also clean and/or replace the IAC, the TPS, and the PCV.
  • Yes, $500 + $1000 earlier this year for a new A/C compressor and dryer is cheap overall for maintenance costs, I agree. I've been very satisfied with the performance of my car overall. In fact, with upcoming replacements, I plan to hold on to it for hopefully, another 50-100K.

    My husband hooked up the computer and found a code indicating the knock sensor. Would make sense why it's hesitating upon acceleration.

    Can a DYIer replace the IAC, TPS and PCV? Would either of these require a lift?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    You have to be careful with codes. They DON'T tell you, in fact, what the defective component is (no computer is that good yet). What they tell you is which circuit or system is unhappy.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Yes, these can be done by a DIYourselfer and be picked up at any autoparts store. It's basic parts (small) that can be changed while leaning over the engine compartment sort of like changing spark plugs.

    BTW, have you seen the 2009 Maxima since it's your 10th anniversary?

    image
  • So then it's a shot in the dark. Replace the knock sensor and see what happens.

    I suppose that even the computer a garage uses is not 100% accurate? It's more based on speculation? Which may be why my garage last week diagnosed two bad ignition coils, replaced them, but there are still problems.
  • Thanks. I think this can be resolved by a DIYer family member.

    Thanks for the photo! Are you trying to entice me?! LOL Sure it screams on the highway!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    It's not speculation if the shop does the correct "diagnostic tree" once they have the code.

    By that I mean a methodical "test this for X. If not X, then go to THAT. Test THAT for Y, if not Y, then go THERE" Etc. Etc.

    If a shop is guessing with your checkbook and just throwing parts at the car, by all means try another. There is no reason why a top-flight mechanic has to guess if it's your knock sensor or not. He can test it, especially if he has the manuals or if he subscribes to sites like ALLDATA, etc.

    The computer puts you on the right track to be sure but a machine is only as good as the person operating it.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • You should change all the coils. Also, change the air flow sensor depending on the unit the computer may need to be updated.
  • Thanks! Having not looked at the manual, is the air flow sensor easy to change?

    Is this common for most Maxima's with these miles (110,000)?

    Do other makes, such as Honda and Toyota, require this amount of maintenance? Curious.
  • They are pretty easy to change. When my 2001 Maxima hit 100k I changed all the coils and the air flow sensor because the check light kept on coming on. After the change, the car had its old spunk back and the light never came back on again.
  • I have a 2001 nissan maxima. Recently both the 12-volt power outlets have went out in the vehicle. all other electical systems are working fine. any suggestions on what the issue may be?
  • Have you checked the fuses?
  • I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima that the A/C blower fan quit working. All fuses are ok and the fan switch shows the fan speed advancing but no air flow. Any help with whats wrong?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,986
    The fan might be controlled by a relay. You might check your owner's manual to identify which relay this is. If you are clever with electrics you might pop the switch out and by-pass it and see what happens.

    You might also try this with the engine off-- perhaps the fan is only working on low speed and you can't hear it with the car running. That would indicate then that the resistor controlling fan speed is the problem.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    Oceanblue, I think i have the same problem with my Maxima ' 97. After stopping on a traffic light, when light changes to green and I take my foot from the brake and put it on gas the car either shuts down or it feels like it doesn’t want to go on the first gear, no matter how hard I push the pedal. If it shuts down, it usually restarts in about 20 seconds. It happens few times a day, not all the time.
    Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
    Don't know what to do anymore.
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    I think i have the same problem with my Maxima ' 97. After stopping on a traffic light, when light changes to green and I take my foot from the brake and put it on gas the car either shuts down or it feels like it doesn’t want to go on the first gear, no matter how hard I push the pedal. If it shuts down, it usually restarts in about 20 seconds. It happens few times a day, not all the time.
    Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
    Don't know what to do anymore.
  • I had a similar problem with my 98 SE. When accelerating from a stop position, the car would jerk and not want to go. It was almost the same feeling as if the clutch was let out too fast on a manual transmission. My car was diagnosed by our mechanic as needing a new mass air flow sensor. This was replaced (total cost was around $450-$500) and the issue hasn't occurred since.

    Good luck.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    It's either the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor.
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    Thank you so much
  • jorghijorghi Posts: 3
    Not to worry. After a spark plug replacement, you will get codes because you disconnected a bunch of wires. Just reset the codes ( or have them reset at a place like AutoZone) . In a couple of weeks the engine computer will collect enough data and you can pass inspection etc.. will be A-Ok.
  • jorghijorghi Posts: 3
    If this is a stick shift, make sure you are pushing the clutch pedal all the way down.
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