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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • You should have nissan hook your car into their computer to do a proper diagnostic of the potential problem. It can be a number of things but you won't know until the test has been done. The problem with buying some of these cars at the auction is that if there was an issue causing that light to come on, with the right equipment the light can be easily reset and would not come for up to 200-250 miles after being reset. But you just but yourself a "silent" problem.
  • It can just be timing. I had a similar experience with my max. The problem is that these cars ahave a number of O2 sensors but the diagnotic equipment can not pin point the exact one that is faulty. And even if they did pin point the problem, it's not unlikely that other might follow in it's failing.
  • I had a similar experince with my late '99 max se. It was a 5 speed manual trans. In the end the problem was my Systems Idle valve that need to be changed. When i was able to get it out of gear it would drive ok but i soon as i hit the clutch and brought the car to a neutral position it would cut off, similar to being in park. Does the problem also happen when you are in drive but at a stop?
  • As a fellow winter driver (montreal,quebec) I recommend Nokian NRW true all season tires religiously. Its a good idea to put them on seperate black rims one inch smaller than your current wheel size with a higher profile tire, (save you lots of $$). It's a little pricier that your everyday brand Michelin Alpine or Blizzaks but the control blended with their performance rating is absolutely worth it. Most rally cars in europe swear by these rubbers and so do I. I have a 01 Max. SE. As far as problems that i've notice you really can't anticipate. Keep $150.00 a month a side for general repair is probably not a terrible idea, I guess that pretty much goes for any car.
  • phopho Posts: 9
    Hi , I have a 2003 Max GLE. Lately when I drove on the rough road I heard some strange noise from the passanger side . It sounds like some coins hit each other. I know the sound was made from the car but I could not pin point the exact location. Anybody got any idea what the sound was? I know the dealer won't look at this little problem . THANKS HO
  • Where did you hear of dipping the o2 sensor in brake cleaner! LOL ! I am a Master Technician with 20 years of import knowlage, and I have to say this is the most rediculious thing I have ever heard of ! Have you ever changed the o2 sensors on a 2001 maxima? You dont just take the things out in 2 minutes and dip them in brake cleaner, then "throw them back in" to se if it is fixed......... The labor time for both sensors is 1.5 hours. They are prone to failure, so is the mass airflow sensor.
    These fourms would be alot more helpfull if people like you would refrain from posts with poor information.
  • I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

    As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.
  • I've got a 2001 Maxima (automatic, not stick) that has problems starting when it's warm/humid or raining. It will crank, but won't turnover. It usually takes 2 - 3 times to get it started. I've taken it to 3 different Nissan service centers 4 different times and they keep telling me that nothing's wrong. This is extremely annoying when I know that something is wrong!!!! :mad: They've checked the starter and the computer, but they said that no code is coming up.

    Recently, I've replaced 3 sensors, one front and two rear along with the air filter. I thought this might make a difference, but it didn't. My service writer thinks it may be electrical, but he can't pinpoint anything unless they get a code or my car acts up while they have it in the shop. This is frustrating because the problem is intermittent.

    My question is this: can something else be the problem without showing up on the computer? My friends are telling me that they think it's the ignition switch. Since I have a Nissan service contract, I can't have a backyard mechanic work on my car as it might void my warranty. Car experts, any suggestions?
  • Usually it's the starter, i don't understand how the dealer can misconcept this. IT could also be the alternator.
  • I've had alternators go out on me before and I don't think that's what's wrong in this case. I suspect that the service writer is correct in guessing that it's electrical. I just can't be sure until it gets worse or a code finally shows up. The problem is that it's intermittent and doesn't happen every day. I just don't want to end up getting stuck far from home with a car that won't start.
  • I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

    As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.

    P.S. My original reply went to bobbyr4 by mistake. Sorry Bobby.
  • dw1212dw1212 Posts: 1
    I've got almost 84K on my 2000 SE. Only major repair was for ignition coils earlier this year. :mad:

    Other standard repairs:
    Change of serpentine belt, tires, battery, front & rear brakes and front rotors.

    I've kept up on the maintenance and haven't had any repairs out of the ordinary.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I also have a 2003 maxima (se) and also heard rattles coming from passenger side on rough road. when I brought it up to the dealer, they said it was the result of faulty tie rod ends and replaced them. seemed to address the problem at first, but eventually the rattle came back. my rattle didn't sound like coins, more hollow sounding than that, so might not be same problem.
  • jvel7jvel7 Posts: 1
    Interesting that I am seeing this same issue across many Maxima owners. I also have a 2005 SL with shimmy and acceleration problems. Not to mention that the transmission bangs into gear occasionally, most of the times when slowing down. I am very interested in participating in a class action lawsuit since my car has been in the shop 3 times for this very same problem. I get the infamous "we could not recreate problem" excuse. Of course, you test drive it at 50-60mph on a local road and not on the highway. I am very disappointed so far considering I owned 2 Nissan Altima's prior ( ' 99 & ' 02). Not to mention the dealer would not pay for my rental for the day or provide a loaner. I will note all of these threads and write a letter to Nissan Corporation. I am at the point where I will probably retain an attorney. Good luck to all.
  • I'm wondering if someone can tell me if they know the answer to this. I've had a problem with the CD player in my car for a couple years. It started about a year or so after I purchased my 2002 Maxima. It never was a priority to me - although I did mention it to the dealer service when I had the car in for some routine work.

    To make a long story short - nothing was ever done about it and the problem still exists.

    However, purely by coincidence I discovered today that there is a Nissan TSB (Service Bulletin) that describes the exact problem I'm seeing and provides the solution (ordering a new Audio unit, etc).

    I'm wondering if the fact that there is a TSB for an acknowleged problem means that it will be fixed at no charge if I take the car to the dealer (even though it is beyond its 3yr / 36000 coverage).

    Wondering if anyone has any experience with TSBs and how dealers react to them.

    Thanks!
  • phopho Posts: 9
    I replaced my cd player last year at no charge. That was a known problem on Max. Make sure to tell the dealer there was a TSB on that problem.
  • I have an 01 Max SE, with 90K. Dealer just informed me that I need a Catalytic Converter ($800). Will talk to my mechanic first. But besides that Back brakes @ dealer ($400) rip off - Front brakes by the mechanic on the corner ($100) back in 02.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima that was purchased in summer of 02 (first 03 sold in the city actually). Since the car's factory warranty was only 3yr/36k, I am no longer under warranty protection and did not buy an extended warranty. Increased fuel costs combined with an upcoming transition into a sales role has made me consider trading in for something with better gas mileage (getting between 15.5-17.5 MPG depending on season - mostly city/suburban driving). However, the fact that I've already seen most of the depreciation on the car has made me hesitant to dump it since years 3-5 tend to be where most of the value is found in a vehicle (up front depreciation has already rolled off, residual depreciation per year reduced significantly going forward). So the $64k question is how reliable can I expect the car to be in the next 2-3 years? If I keep a car that will start to eat up repairs, I lose, but if I trade in what would have been a highly reliable car and start all over, I also lose.

    Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • rick70rick70 Posts: 1
    my nissan will surge while holding the gas to the floor rpm goes up then down then will go away and run fine for 2 or 3 mins then statrs surging again any ideas??
  • abhaabha Posts: 1
    Hi!

    I have a 1991 Maxima with auto transmission and it was working fine, I noticed that it's transmission fluid level has increased, initially I removed some of it and brought it to level by thinking that mechanic has made a mistake, then next day it was again high, then I noticed that it was probably a seal leakage and coolant was mixing with transmission fluid. In between that I noticed that gears have started slipping too. But they work, it only happens when fluid/transmission gets warmer. I have stopped using the vehicle.

    Can any one give me an idea what would be the cost of fixing that leakage, as one mechanic told me it will be around $1500-2000. So I have not dared to go to another one so far.

    Some one on the forum told me that I can import a used transmission from Japan and the whole cost would be less than $1000 including labor etc. But I have yet to get the name of the company which imports parts.

    Any other ideas?

    Thanks.
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