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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just had my belt changed by a nondealer and it makes a light high pitched noise. Any thoughts
  • My wife also has a 2001 Maxima SE and we just experience a similar problem. The car is actually runnning a little rougher than normal and the check engine light came on (we're at 119k). The dealer said it was the Cat. Converter - Bank 2 and will cost $900. We're tired of thie problems with this car and dealing w/ the dealership inflate prices.

    A local repair shop is going to replace the cat. converter for $350 with a new OEM part. We're just going to cross our fingers and hope the part works well since it's a non-Nissan Part.
  • gurkgurk Posts: 2
    I was on the highway in the rain doing about 50 and i stepped on my accelorator pretty hard. I got up to about 65 when my traction control kicked in. The slip light flashed a few times then my car shut off. I pulled over and restarted it but wasnt able to go above 40 mphs and no higher than 3000 rpms. Also my tcs light is on as well as my slip and check engine soon. what did i do?
  • I have a 2001 Maxima SE that I bought brand new 4 years ago. The car is a manual transmission and now has 76,500 miles on it. It has performed flawlessly for all of those miles. I just recently decided to change the spark plugs myself and I checked with my local Nissan dealer on how much the stock plugs cost. He told me they were a ridiculous $16.50 apiece! I informed him I would probably buy an after market part. He then informed me that after market spark plugs would not work in my Maxima. He either was an idiot or thought I was. Anyway, I put in the new Denso Iridium plugs made for the Maxima and they cost $12.99 apiece at the local AutoZone. Pretty pricey but well worth it. My car seems to have more power now then when it was new. In addition I replaced the stock air filter with a permanent K&N air filter and that also seemed to increase my power since it is supposed to allow more air flow to the engine. I recommend both of these changes. Don't know anything about coil failure as of yet. My car has never run better. The only other problem I have right now is my front disc brake rotors keep warping. Therefore I have ordered from Tire Rack.com a front set of Brembo rotors which cost $46.00 apiece. Not bad. Plus a new set of Hawk ceramic front brake pads. They are supposed to provide better braking, not warp rotors, and also eliminate brake dust. I will report back on them when they arrive and I put them on.
  • I have a new 2006 Nissan Maxima SE (about 1,000 miles). I have encountered this situation. Sometimes, when I brake the steering wheel pulls to the right or to the left. It is as if a brake was grabbing or there was an alignment problem.. The dealer's service says this happens because of the 18 wheels and tires. He says the irregularities of the roadway causes it to happen. He says there is nothing wrong with the car and nothing that needs to be fixed or that can be fixed.

    Have others experienced this?
  • Does anyone have the instructions and/or pictures on how to replace the spark plugs for a 2002 Maxima GLE? I have approx. 71,000 on the car which still has the original spark plugs. I have heard that the back spark plugs are difficult to replace.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • After posting message 2987, I noticed an item in the left hand column of the window. To my horror, I see that there is a braking-steering wheel problem that a law firm thinks makes the vehicle a lemon.

    But I would very much like to hear about the experiences of others!
  • I am not sure about the 2002 Maxima because that is the first year Nissan changed the car from a 3.0L to a 3.5L engine. I just changed the spark plugs on my 2001 Nissan Maxima (3.0L) engine. The front plugs were, of course, very simple because they are right up front and nothing is obstructing them. However, I had a devil of a time with the rear plugs. There is plenty of things obstructing them including the throttle cables, the hood, etc. Short of removing the entire hood I had to crane my head way back over the engine to get the three coils lose (10mm bolts hold them on). Then I had to remove the throttle cables (one for throttle body and one for the cruise control). Then I had to loosen each plug and snake a flexible cable with a claw to remove each plug. Anyway, took me about two hours to finish the whole job.
  • my 91 maxima will start fine then after driving in the rain for about five minutes it will start to miss and then die completely! when you try to start it again the battery is almost dead. It will crank a couple of times before there is no more juice. After waiting a while, say a half hour, it will jump start and run fine. This has stranded me more than a few times. I have replaced the usual: cap,rotor,ignition wires, battery terminals,battery and timing belt, because it needed to be done. Now this problem only arises when it is very damp or its raining. Has anyone had a problem like this? I'm afraid to drive any long distances. any help would be greatly appreciated
  • I just got an 01 20th ann edition and the control arm broke after I had it for a week and 2 days. Very scary. Called Nissan but my VIN# wasn't covered in the recall. Went to NHTSA? website that issued the recall and the same thing has happened to others. Nissan sucks cuz if you messed up on 01 Maximas, how do you know exactly which cars are messed up? Isn't that what a mistake is? Anyone else have this prob?
  • I bought my 2001 nissan SE used @ 86,000. It now has 101,000. My check engine soon light keeps coming on and flashes when i accelerate quickly. My car feels like it did when i bought it so i am not too concerned. However, i went away on vacation and did not drive my car for about a week. When i came back and turned on my car my ABS, traction control and slip lights are on. I brought it to a local garage and they said it could be a sensor or something. Does anyone have any clue what this could be. I would rather know what it is before i bring it to the dealership and they take advantage of me. :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Gee this almost has to be an alternator problem or an alternator belt that is slipping badly when wet. I can't think of any other reason for a new battery to go dead.

    MODERATOR

  • Hey shagadelk7 ... I'm having the identical problem with my 2000. It's got 138K and lately the same warning lights have been coming on when I start it up. It doesn't happen ALL the time but the service engine light has been staying on for a few days now. Tonight when I was on my way home from work it was idling a little rough at the stop light (I ALWAYS use premium gas)and the SES, ABS, Traction Control and SLIP lights were ALL on. This is the second time in two weeks that thats happened. Once I got out on the highway, I kicked it down pretty hard and the roughness disappeared. I had to stop at a store on the way home and when I came back out and re started the car, only the SES light came on and stayed on AND the engine idled smooth again. So what's up with that ?? I keep reading horror stories of replacing engine coils ... and CO2 sensors ... and who knows what else. Did you find any sort of solution to your concerns ?? I'm pretty much stuck with an independent garage because there's only one Nissan dealer within 150 km of London, Ontario and he's screwed me once too many times. In fact there's two separate web pages on the internet dedicated exclusively to bashing this particular dealer ... go figure. Any help you could offer would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks
    Tom
  • mastjmastj Posts: 14
    Yes, my 2005 Max SE does this occasionally, but not constantly. I don't like it when it does it either. I've had the car about a year and I suspect this problem is related to the engine braking. Switching the VDC off doesn't stop it from doing this either. The whole engine braking thing annoys me anyway. Have you ever noticed this when going down a steep hill and let off the gas. It brakes (you feel a pulsation) for a second or two and then releases the engine braking and then reapplies. I don't understand why Nissan feels this is necessary.

    Also, torque steer is a real problem with this car. I come from a 1998 Regal GS (supercharged) that has more torque than the Max and it doesn't have torque steer problems like the Max.

    Overall, the steering feels real "flimsey" and you never quite know what to expect.

    Here I thought I was the only one that noticed the pulling problem.

    Also, I'm getting a set of the SL 17" wheels and tires for winter - we'll see whether this helps the problem.
  • My 2004 has one headlight that is not aimed right, took it to the dealer and their shop and sales people told me that these headlights can not be adjusted.

    The dealership also told me that there has been quite a few owners with this problem.

    Anyone know anything about this? Is there a fix for this problem? Has Nissan addressed this problem?

    Thanks
  • I have a '02 maxima that I purchased used. The service engine light has come on several times and is currently on. The first time it came on took to dealership who supposedly fixed it but after several mths light came back on. Put an stp gas tx in and light went off. We recently took car for inspection sticker and light was on. Failed inspection. Took to local repair shop--he couldn't find anything wrong. reset and light went off. He recommended we get a new gas cap which we did. Drove several weeks and now light is back on--anyone have any ideas. THe car drives fine--no engine roughness etc, we want to sell car but have to get this fixed 1st. Don't want to take by to dealer...HELP!!
  • phopho Posts: 9
    It might be the battery connection not tight enough. My friend had that problem before. After it was fixed the light gone.
  • Hey tmelrankin---My lights are still on.I havent done anything about it. I guess i will find out tomorrow morning if my slip and traction really dont work since its supposed to snow. My car always runs like crap in idle, but is fine when i am driving like 70-80. my check engine light has been on for like 4 months now but my car feels the same. I dont really understand it, but i am not too worried if my car feels the same. In order to get it to pass inspection though i going ot have to have all those lights turned off somehow because they wont pass me. Damn Massachusetts. I will let you know though once i have to get it fixed. I always use premium gas too and it really makes no difference. We'll see what happens.
  • I have to drive my 92 maxima SE w/auto trans. about ten miles before the torque converter will lock up when the temperature is 20 degrees or less. I live about 1/4 mile from expressway so I usually try to drive at a reasonable speed till the lock up occurs. I Don't like to drive high RPM's in a cold engine. Is this normal for this trans. to operate this way?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I have a 2000 GLE with 75K miles on it and for a while I've had cold start problems. On mornings with temperature outside below 45F or so, the engine will stall or will not idle evenly until it is warm, after keeping the foot on the gas pedal and letting the car warms up, there are no problems. This happens on cold mornings only and the colder it is the worst is the problem. I read many forums and thought it was an air intake or a computer problem and so the following parts were replaced: idle air control valve, mass air flow sensor, engine computer module (ECM), air filter. In addition, car has relatively new plugs, oil changed regularly, pcv valve replaced. The problem still persists and computer has no stored error codes, dealer says that computer doesn't need to be reprogrammed as per an FSB, because I got an upgraded version with all latest programming already done. I am completely lost and now I think it's not sensor related or air related. Dealer has no clue either. Can this be related to oil pressure or oil filter or anything of the sort? Gaskets? Internal oil leaks? If so, what needs to be fixed? Any knowledgeable advise will be greatly appreciated.
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