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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • dahuberdahuber Posts: 53
    I assume that your 2000 Maxima is the same as my 2001 on this. The 14mm bolt faces the driver side at the bottom of the pump. I reached with a long extension across, but you could rig up extensions with a universal socket, too.
  • thanks for the suggestion. i am going to try that when i get a spare moment. i was wondering if your service engine light ever came on during your problems? mine has remained on for the past week.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    if your SES light is on then you should scan the computer and identify the error code. Autozone store will give you a free scan - it's their policy. Once you get the code, just look it up online and then you'll be on the right track. Your issue can be caused by many things, the SES light is supposed to suggest where to look although cleaning throttle body is always a good idea of course.
  • vince9vince9 Posts: 1
    I own a 2001 Maxima and I have a problem. My car seems to go fine but ABS-SLIP-TCS lights are always. Can someone please help me beacuse I don't want replace something and the problem still exists... I know this problem already posted but i don,t see no precise answer... I would rather know what it is before i bring it to the dealership and they take advantage of me.
    Thank you
  • tdk930tdk930 Posts: 4
    i had this problem on my 2000 maxima. you did not say how many miles are on your car. My fix was to replace the plugs and coils. If you have 80K+ or more miles, replace the plugs first and see if the problem goes away. if not, replace the coils.

    also - you should have the code pulled and run a search on yahoo - lots of info out there.
  • mdogramdogra Posts: 16
    I have 1996 Maxima. My stereo was dead for which the dealership messed with the wiring once and later shipped out my stereo for Repair. The stereo has been replaced. During all this process they messed up the backlighting on the switches/buttons on my Climate Control (ac) panel as well as back lighting on the emergency switch + rear de-fogger switch (next to the watch). :cry:
    These are located on the center console above the stereo. I can't see the switches in dark now since they are not lighted up (no backlighting inside them). Now he is asking me to replace the panel which is all but crap. Can someone help as to where the problem could be. It used to work before and now both the panels are with no backlighting on the buttons. AC and all switches operate. I can see the ac/ watch display too but just the buttons are blind. I have tried the panel dimmer also but doesn't help. Please, anyone have an insight before I escalate the problem in dealership / BBB. Thanks!!! :cry:
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    agreed with tdk930, pull any error codes first - go to autozone store and have them read your computer with a scan tool for free, it's theor policy, then look up the codes online and what can possibly cause those codes to come up. I wouldn't replace any parts before that
  • mdogramdogra Posts: 16
    Message #3273: 96 Maxima GLE, Dealership messed up my panel.. Help !

    Someone... please help !!.
  • marcusd1marcusd1 Posts: 1
    Hello... I have 91 Maxima GXE that is overheating because the radiator fan does not come on when driving around town; both fans will come on if I turn the AC on...and then coolant temperature comes down to normal. The Dasboard Temp. Guage is functioning properly. Suggestions on what the problem is and/or checks I can do to find the problem?
    Thanks very much,
  • spikeia89spikeia89 Posts: 2
    I have recently failed a MD emissions test on my 98 Max with ~114K miles on it. They just connect to the ODBII and look for certain codes. I had 2 codes P0440 (EVAP system leak) and P1448 (EVAP canister vent control valve open) according to the Hayne's manual. Several people have told me that this is usually a loose gas cap. I cleared the codes started/stopped the car 5 times in a matter of 10 minutes. Used the ODB reader again and it was clean. I operated the car normally for a couple of weeks and then took the reading again. Same codes were back.

    Has anyone ever seen this before? If so, is it likely just a bad gas cap or do I need to find this canister vent control valve?

    Hayne's manual says the canister is located behind the gas tank. Is the vent control valve part of the canister?

    Any help would be appreciated!
  • snowman15snowman15 Posts: 1
    I had my 2004 Max SE in the shop yesterday for this, as well as the lumbar recall. They said it was air in the coolant line which they blead. This removed the air which should remove the noise. I will keep you posted if it comes back but I did not hear it yesterday or this morning. The right front suspension component was not properly addressed as I heard the same loose sounding clunk on the compression and recoiling of the wheel this AM.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    EVAP canister is a canister that looks like a bucket and it's located on one side of the gas tank when you look at your undercarriage. It sits on the opposite side of the muffler and on the same side as the gas cap. P0440 may be caused by defective gas cap but when you get both P0440 and P1448 then the cause is one of the following: EVAP canister vent control valve, EVAP control system pressure sensor and circuit, Blocked rubber tube to EVAP canister vent control valve, Water separator, EVAP canister is saturated with water, Vacuum cut valve.

    So, as you can see, you need to take the car to a shop and inspect the EVAP system, you'll be lucky if it's just some valve or hose, the worst case is the canister itself, which costs close to $400 from the dealer. I can't list the procedure to verify the exact defective component here, it's too long. Send me email to my user name on this forum and I will send you the relevant section from Nissan service manual.
  • kennyg8kennyg8 Posts: 225
    I had the same problem two years ago with my 97 GLE. I took it to the dealer, and the defective parts and hoses were replaced at a cost of approx. $500. Since I bought my three Maximas (third, fourth and fifth gens) from the same dealer, I was given a 25% discount on the service. If you look at Nissan's service bulletin, this is a known defect that affected many 4th gens. However, since my car was out of warranty when it happened, I had to pay for the repair, albeit at a discount.
  • mpd113mpd113 Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima that allegedly according to the dealer states that even though I had an oil change as recently as 2000 miles ago the car died on me and they are saying the oil was scalded and burnt and 2 quarts down - there is only 29000 miles on this car and hadnt had any warning sign or anything - although prior to engine dying there was a rattle noise coming from the engine - any ideas what the issue is here - now NMAC is hassling me over receipts from service station stating they arent valid and warranty may not cover it
  • 04mxasl04mxasl Posts: 3
    My car has 42,000 miles and after my battery was drained we tried to jumpstart the car after 2 hours my headlights finally came on and thw windows started to work but the car still refused to start. I had the car towed to the dealership and they told me my starter needs to be replaced. I bought the car new in march 04. The car is just over 2 years old and I have to get the starter replaced?? Past experience dictates that once the first problem happens it is only a matter of time before it becomes a maintenance nightmare.

    Anyone experience this problem I need to make a decision on what I should do next.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I doubt that Nissan dealer prices are any indication of real-world cost of any repair. That $500 should run for $250 if not less at any descent shop. I recently had the following done in one visit at a private shop: valve cover gaskets/intake manifold gaskets/clean throttle body, all for $250. Just take a wild guess what the dealer quote was for this work.

    They charge $90 per hour for labor plus retail price for any part plus tax and this only applies if they know what the issue is, in many cases they will charge you for a computerized diagnostic separately without any guarantee of fixing the issue. I wouldn't take the car with this issue to a dealer, a private shop should fix it for less.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    your starter may have become defective because you cranked it too much when battery was dead and it has nothing to do with any other parts. Whatever the reason, it should still be under warranty so if they want to replace it then let them, no big deal, it's even better, you get a new starter at 42K rather then having to pay for it at 80K.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    General rule of thumb is to never crank a starter for more than 15 seconds. They will overheat easily if you keep cranking them, as they are not designed for that purpose....that is, prolonged use. They are high torque, short-term motors.


  • 95max295max2 Posts: 9
    My 95 max, I have it for about three months, it has about 105,000. Sometimes, it act like it don't want to start, "the starter would not turn over I was told" Others says it might be my oxygen Sensor. When I put the heat on today the car begin to act like I was not giving it gas, jucking, then it cut out and took about two minutes to start and sometimes it cut out when I go to pull off. I have no car knowledge, any sugestion will be helpful.
  • oggioggi Posts: 1
    When I start the cold engine, it runs but does not rev up even if I floor the gas pedal. This lasts for about a minute. If I try to drive it during this minute, the car almost chokes and rolls very slowly. Then all of the sudden it goes into normal mode of operation, but there's still some hesitation when I accelerate. Got it diagnosed, but I get the feeling that the mechanic was unsure of the problem. He did say that everything points to the fuel pump temperature sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Has anyone experienced this issue? Please help, I am out of ideas.

    PS I tested the fuel temperature sensor, it checked out ok measuring 2,300 Ohm at 20 degrees C.

    I thank you all kindly!
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