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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • 95max295max2 Posts: 9
    Help, Help!!! My 95 max is not starting, when I start it, it stays on for about 20 seconds then it acts like it is chocking and then is cuts out.

    If this happened to you please post the solution to this problem or if you know what might be the cause please help.

    Thank you very much
  • 95max295max2 Posts: 9
    This car was find before I put in a remote start alarm, I took it back to the shop and they checked it they said it not the problem, now is starts but not for more than 10-20 seconds. It acts like it is chocking then cuts out. Please HELP.

  • unpdblunpdbl Posts: 7
    My 2000 maxima recently got a transmission fluid flush & fill w/ a new filter & gasket ($95.00) at that time the SES light was not on but previously was on for about 3 days, it has been going on & off for the past month. The mechanic said to bring it in when the light is on but said he got these codes from it PO171 & PO174 which he said it was running lean. He did a smoke test on engine & found no leaks but said it's possible that my mass air flow sensor is going bad & that it's very expensive. The car has 75,000 mi on it & has had reg maint done on it. It is due for a tune-up. The rpms have been revving & the car not moving when having to accelerate into heavy traffic, etc. but it seemed the trans flush & fill fixed that since I found this garage w/ a flushing machine. Could it be that it needed to be reset? Because it seems to be running fine now like it used to. My husband changed the serpentine belt (thanks to all of you out there who told him how to get to it!) & changed the air filter. But ultimately I'm the one who has to drive this car everyday & this stupid little light is very annoying. He feels all the garages out there just want your $$ & as long as it runs I should just drive it as he is a back yard mech/tractor trailer driver & is not used to all this computer stuff & these tight spaces to work in & never feels we should take any of our cars to the dealer cause they're all a rip-off. Well, enough of my rambling anyone who knows what we should do about these codes comments would be greatly appreciated! When I told the garage about my husband finding this site (edmunds) they said alot of those people don't know what they're talking about, but I feel different as we saved alot of $$ by everyone helping him change that belt ourselves & not having to put it in shop. Thanks again to all of you out there helping other Nissan owners w/ their problems I think this is a great website!!
    (unpdbl's wife) :)
  • garciavegagarciavega Posts: 1
    I too am having the same problem. My mechanic doesnt know the problem either. But asked around and some people told me to change the air mass flow sensor which im in the process of doing and going to see if this fixes the problem if not going to try the egr valve.
  • mastjmastj Posts: 14
    I had a similar problem - the salt and sand used on the roads in the winter "sandblasted" the paint off the rocker panels and the lower rear doors (right where they flare out, near the rear tires). This happened within the first 3k miles (Jan. & Feb. '05). After some pressuring, the dealership repainted the rocker panels and put 3M Rockguard tape over the rocker panel and lower rear door. Nissan covered this under warranty. The tape has lasted pretty well the last 20k miles, but it is worn from the constant sandblasting.

    From my observation of other Maxima's, especially the darker colored ones, this appears to be a common problem.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    is your Service Engine Soon light on? Did the mechanic test it with an OBD2 scanner? If so, what codes he got? If you never tested it with OBD2 scanner then go to Autozone and have them test it for free and tell you any error codes. That should point you in the right direction but generally the possible issues you mentioned would usually be accomponied by an error code. Otherwise you can start by cleaning your throttle body and making sure your air filter is clean.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Your transmission flush service has nothing to do with these codes. The codes indicate a fuel injection system not operating properly with mixture ratio being too lean. Possible causes are: Intake Air Leaks, Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit, Injectors, Exhaust Gas Leaks, Incorrect Fuel Pressure, Lack Of Fuel, Mass Air Flow Sensor. The easiest thing is to check for exhaust leaks before the catalytic converter as well as for intake air leaks after the mass air flow sensor and then check fuel lines for leaks. If that's not it then it gets more difficult but there is a procedure for testing each component. Fuel pressure is tested with special guage, injectors can be removed and tested as well, etc... Start with easy checks I mentioned.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160

    I have a 2K Maxima and my muffler assembly is leaking exhaust gas. There is small crack/hole right where the pipe is welded to the muffler on the engine side. This pipe is part of the muffler assembly and I don't feel like replacing the whole thing right now. I bought this exhaust patch in a form of a cream or greaze for $2 in AutoZone and it's supposed to dry up and weld the crack for good. Anyone had any experience with these cream patches at all? Is it going to work?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,416
    I don't see why a good muffler shop can't just weld the crack for you presuming it is not badly rusted.

    Patches tend not to work because vibrations loosen them up. You could probably cobble something together with patch material and clamps, etc. but it's a short term fix and not so safe, since you don't want gases leaking into your car's interior. You can't smell CO.


  • mlhovellmlhovell Posts: 2
    You seem to know alot about cars, I am having a problem and thought i would run it by you..I have a 95 maxima. It runs great. Had a new battery put in yesterday and now the check engine light is on. Took it straight back to Sears and they said the battery and system checks out ok. It does need a new battery cable and post, they put one on,but couldn't get the bolt loose on the other one. Said take to mechanic to do.. Could the light be something to do with the new battery or installation? OR is it as Sears thinks in the emission system... Any ideas? Thanks, Marcia
  • unpdblunpdbl Posts: 7
    Thanks for the quick reply. I am printing out & taking it w/ me to the mechanic if my husband can't do the things mentioned w/o special equipment. Thanks again!!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Sears were right that SES light usually comes on if there is an issue with the emissions system. I would get your computer scanned for error codes to see what's wrong (try AutoZone for free scan but 1995 is pre-OBD2, may need to go to mechanic). Since you mentioned the battery replacement then once you are sure that the battery and cables are fine then after you read the codes, reset the computer and wait to see if SES comes on again. Also check your ECM relay, which is basically a fuse for your on board computer. It's in one of the relay panels. It's possible that battery replacement affected this relay.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Had something strange happen last night, the key was in ACC position and I was listening to radio while my daughter was playing with power passenger seat moving it up and down. Then I put in the phone charger into the cigarrete lighter to charge my phone. After 5 minutes or so, I cranked the engine and noticed that both trip A and B were reset to 0. This never happenned before and nothing else was affected, total mileage didn't change, clock is fine, radio station presets are fine. Anyone has any idea what happenned?
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    starter may be under powertrain warranty for 60K miles but I am not sure on that, gotta look in warranty manual
  • unpdblunpdbl Posts: 7
    Thank You very much for the info on that site. I am going to check that out, too. It all sounds foreign to me. :confuse: Think maybe we should all go back to horse &
  • mark180mark180 Posts: 1
    The car sounds like it has a rev limiter when the motor hit 2000 rpm's when your driving or not. It starts good and idles good. Already checked the fuel pump pressure, it's good. Checked for any codes with a scanner, none come up for anything. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas.
  • angie66angie66 Posts: 3
    I can't believe this... on Friday I bought a 1999 Maxima SE five speed with 118k miles from a used car dealer and ten minutes (literally) after driving it off the lot, the service engine soon light came on. I wasn't even home yet! :mad: After I got home I googled this topic specifically and found out that apparently the 1999 and 2000 maximas have terrible problems with the SES light repeatedly coming on with issue after issue (coils, O2 sensors, bunch of other emission-related stuff). The car seemed to drive fine this weekend although the light stayed on. I disconnected the battery for an hour hoping to reset the light to no avail. I also filled with premium fuel (although I put midgrade in it before that - but after the light had already been on, so that wasn't the problem). I know I need to find someone with a OBD2 reader and find out what the code is - I don't want to pay $90 for Nissan to do it, and being female I dread the whole expensive runaround I'll get once I take it in there to find out what's wrong. So today, for the first time, driving to work, it seems like it is losing power with acceleration (no sputtering or stalling on idle though). Or am I just imagining it? It seems like when I up-shift and accelerate, the engine just races but not much happens. Could this be the mid-grade fuel causing the acceleration problem, or maybe it's in my head... should I just re-set the light and fill up with premium and hope it all goes away? What are the chances of that? Have others noticed acceleration/loss of power problems just from using mid-grade gas? I am sure the dealer (small used car dealership) will not stand behind me on this one. But out of curiosity, what are the chances that they knew about this before I bought the car? Thanks for any advice/help... Angie
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 924
    First you need to calm down and not panic! Nissans don't have "terrible problems"; in fact they are one of the more reliable cars on the road. However, you have an 8 year old car with over 100,000 miles; the probability is that it will need some work along the way. I assume you had an independent mechanic check out this car before you bought it? And did it come with a 30 day warranty from the dealership? Usually they do, and so they should fix your problem. First though, you need to find out what's wrong. It can be any number of things, from a wrongly tightened gas cap to the catalytic converter. The code should pinpoint the area of the problem and the dealership should fix it.

    If you didn't have a mechanic check it out, and it didn't come with a 30 day warranty, chalk it up to a learning experience, fix what's wrong and enjoy your car.
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    we had a 2001 nissan maxima se that the light kept coming on. we took it to any auto zone and they will check it for free. just tell them the SES light came on it might the o2 sensor. You can also take it to checkers for free dont take it to dealer they will rip you off that's what they get paid to do hopefully everything works out let us know.
  • angie66angie66 Posts: 3
    Thanks. I didn't meant to give the impression that I was panicking, or that I thought Maximas were full of 'terrible problems' (I agree that they are generally reliable or I wouldn't have bought one). However, after reading this forum and several other sites, I think most people agree that there are issues with the emissions system that go beyond what one would typically expect. I certainly don't expect a '99 with over 100k to never need problems; on the other hand, I was hoping to at least get into my driveway with it, since I did have it checked out by an independent mechanic before purchasing (no problems he could find). No 30 day warranty - most used car dealers here don't seem to have that (some do), and lots of people buy cars from private parties without a warranty so I guess I was just hoping I would be ok.

    I do appreciate your response. I took the car to Autozone today and they were great - ran the diagnostics and came up with the codes P0325 and P0138 (02 sensor and knock sensor). The person at Autozone said he thought the 02 sensor probably was the reason for the knock sensor code and once the 02 sensor was fixed, the other code would go away too. He reset the engine light and so far it hasn't come back on. Not sure if a bad tank of gas or loose gas cap could give a diagnostic code of 02 sensor, but I'll wait to see if the light comes back on and if it does, I'll get it fixed. Thanks.
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