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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Just curious. Did you check the battery connections since they were last reconnected?
  • murp01murp01 Posts: 2
    yes, everything felt tight
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Same here. No corrosion and the battery terminals are tight. If a low voltage battery was the problem, you would think the battery light would come on more often. My light came on twice in 6 weeks. The problem happens with my wife__ and you know women-- they start the car with the headlights on, radio on and the A/C at max cold. No load shed!! Besides low voltage would cause the starter to drag. I let the car sit over the weekend and it started great. The battery light was out before the engine completely started. Who knows what tomorrow will be?? :)
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    I got an OBD2 reader too but wil not read my Maxima. It will read my Ford and Jeep. $450.00 reader from Snap on. :cry:
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    no, I went with one of those generic OBD2 adapters for your laptop or Palm. They work great with good software and only cost $95. The adapter has ELM327 chip and supposedly supports all OBD2 modes, you just need to get the right software. The problem though is to make sense of all the readings, need the factory manual at the very least...

    It would be very nice to get a separate forum started on OBD2 issues. All specific error code questions could go in there.
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Got a factory Maxima CD on EBAY--$5.00.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    yes I have that, still need to dig in to find the right O2 voltages and need a software to actually plot O2 readings over time. Found something in Engine Control section under General Specifications. Apparently the O2 voltage has to go up and down all the time as the computer adjusts from rich to lean gas mixture conditions. The low voltage should be between 0 and 0.3 and high between 0.6 and 1. As long as those adjustments are within parameters and constant then your O2 is OK... But you have to have no load and run the engine at 2500 rpm...
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    Anyone ever did an automatic transmission flush? I saw this one being offered by a local dealer for like $80. Is this any good at all? I remember with older cars they didn't even recommend changing fluid too often and Nissan doesn't even list transmission fluid change as part of any scheduled service...
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    I had mine flushed at the dealer. Seemed to be ok. I am an filter and fluid guy myself. I want to think that is the only way on the Maxima.
  • I've had a 95SE since new and fortunately it has been an exceptionally troublefree car. So far, nothing has gone wrong that I couldn't easily or reasonably fix. Car was made in Japan - maybe that makes a difference?

    Scanning through the posts in this forum, I see that the ignition coils are a big repeat item. Hasn't happened to my car yet, but it makes me nervous...

    What I haven't seen is anyone's assessment of what fails in the coils. Is it the insulation or does the part fail electrically? My point, as always, is - can they be repaired without replacing?

    Would appreciate some discussion on this.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    this issue is common for 2000-2002 Maximas and is accomponied by error code P1320. Nissan Service Bulletin suggests to replace all 6 coils when you get this code unless you also get a misfire code for a specific cylinder as well. If you don't get a specific cylinder misfire code then no, there is no good way to determine which coil is bad, I tried and they all had same resistance. One way is to take out one spark plug at a time, connect it to its coil and crank the engine and observe the spark. I didn't want to do that though. I found these coils at $45 each on eBay, bought them and replaced myself.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    do you know what exactly was done, how was the flush performed? The filter on my Max is not a replaceable item, do they clean it?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    02's have no issues with coils. 02's and 03's are the same car (ie 255 hp, xenon head lights, etc). The coil problems are pre 2002.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    yes, 2000 and 2001 only
  • Thanks for the answer, but it doesn't address the original question which was: when the coils break down, what fails? Is it an insulation failure or an electrical failure - and can it possibly be repaired?

    Since I have a 95 SE, it would seem that I don't face much risk of it. Is that right?

  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    you definitely don't have the known issue we discussed here but a I held a coil in my hand and I don't think that you can repair a bad one in home or auto shop setting, if it's bad then it needs to be replaced. The only thing you should try to do is determine which one is bad. As I mentioned, I wasn't able to do it on my 2K Max because the detonation was intermittent. If you get constant misfires and you determine that it's one of the coils then you can try replacing them one at a time and see which one eliminates misfires.
  • tomaslttomaslt Posts: 2
    I have a 95 Nissan Maxima with 190K miles on it. I replaced all fuel injectors, spark plugs, battery, fuel filter X2, fuel pump, fuel regulator, alternator, starter X2, knock sensor, coolant sensor and will be replacing the oxygen sensor. I'm hoping to fix the cold starting problem. Once it starts the car runs beautifully. It started with running problems then after the new fuel injectors it ran fine. Then it wouldn't start at all and after replacing the battery and starter it started ok. Then it would not start right away which is where I'm now. I had my mechanic replace the fuel pump, fuel regulator, knock sensor, fuel regulator and fuel filter and yet it doesn't start on the first turn. Hopefully the air sensor might fix this for good. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas.
  • t2029t2029 Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Maxima GXE, 72K miles, O2 sensor changed, new battery last year. It died on me while I was driving this morning, with only AC on. Then it occurs to me that about 3 weeks ago, both brake and battery lights came on and off one day. And it was ok since then until today. I went to AutoZone to test the battery and alternator. They said both are ok. Although the alternator is marginal, as it was putting out 12.65V, where the threshold is 12.4V. It sounds like about $400 if replacing the alternator. Any suggestion? Thanks.

  • hello i`m new here. i just brought a 93 nissan maxima . i have several problems. the latest and the most important one : doesnt start. i dont now why. yesterday he work fine.. i parked the car after 1 min i try to start and failed, after 15 minutes i tried again and.. it works. now this morning.. again doesent start and i try several times.i dont think is the batery.also in my first day ( i have the car from 6 days)when i try to start the car the alarm went on ( i just have one key).i pull of a red 10A thing and now is quiet. if i put back the 10A thing alarm is starting..

    pls help
    p.s sorry for my english
  • 95max295max2 Posts: 9
    I have a 95 with somewhat the same problem and the dealer said it can be my computer that is bad if it continue after I change my relay. Let your mechanic change your relay that should do it, if not then it is your computer, mines solve the problem.
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