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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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  • I just purchased a 2007 Maxima. I'm trying to figure out if it's possible to make the doors lock when I place the car in/out of gear. Does anyone know how to do it??
  • I have a 92 Nissan Maxima. Sunday night it started making a awful noise, sounded like metal scraping asphalt under the front of the car. I had been driving it earlier so I have no idea where it came from. It started at turning the car on and the whole 2 miles home. the slower I drove the more noticible the noise, scratching horrible loud noise. I parked and looked under the car, nothing was hanging down or abnormal. I decided to try to start it in the morning to see if the noise persisted, and it did upon trying to back out so I just parked it and it is sitting.
    Any suggestions? does this sound normal to anyone?
    Thanks.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    What is dry lubricant? (lubricate??)

    My driver's side window does the same thing, very annoying squeek.
  • I just leased a 06 Max SE, Demo with 7900k on Aug 8, 06. Last week (9/10), my check engine light came on. Called the dealer,the told me to make a appt for service. Went, and told me they are going to have to get me a rental, because they need to replace a part-some type of converter, and the mechanic does not want me to drive the car. They say something to do with the sensors if I continued to drive. I told them I don't want the car, there was another demo on lot, 06 Se with 5000k. I leased the car through Nissan Motor Corp., but have not made a payment. The dealer told me that I would have to terminate my current lease. Any thoughts.....
  • Hey I have a '01 maxima and i had the same problem with the window squeaking. I had some body work done on the door and I asked the body man to look at it. when I picked up the car, the noise was gone and he said that the window tracks get dry inside the door...not the rubber edge as I suspected. He said all he did was squirt some lubricant on the metal track and the noise went away. Its been 3 months and the window is still quiet.
  • IM sure you have gotten it fixed by now but my 2001 did the same thing, battery light and brake light came on and eventually the car died...unfortunately i was 2 hours away from home on a saturday night. I had it looked at the next day at firestone and they condemned the alternator. $525 later i was back on the road and no problems since.
  • Alot of times when i start my '01 Maxima, when i shift into drive, it doesnt seem to go in right away. When the symptoms are present, it feels kinda like its im driving a manual and the clutch hasnt fully engaged, but after a few secs its fine. Any suggestions or has anyone else run into this?
  • You want a lubricant that has no oil residue. Check around and see if you can find a spray on silicon that dries clear. If you spray WD-40 and such on your seal, it will stop squealing but will leave and oil film on your windows when they go up.
  • Hello, I was wondering if you ever got your car fixed. My Nissan Maxima 93 had the exact same problem. It took about 6 months but the Nissan dealership told us it was the Engine coolant Temp. sensor and the O2 sensors that were bad. so far, it is working a ok.
  • I have a question that a few of us are arguing about. Will a bad O2 sensor make the gas mileage bad? I have a 93 Nissan Maxima. We just had the Engine cooland Temp. sensor replaced because it was stalling and surging really bad. They told us that the O2 sensor was bad also. Any more ideas or thoughts on this? :confuse:
  • the O2 sensors can directly affect the gas mileage, but they generally will not cause a stalling or surging problem. Did the CTS take care of that?
  • I'm having the same kind of problem started doing it tonight. If you find out any thing please let me know. To me it sounds like the shifter cable but I'm just not sure. My shifter just wont shift i have to wiggle it a bunch of times and then it will go out of park.
  • biancarbiancar Posts: 913
    Is spraying this lubricant on something that I can do without taking the door apart? If so, where do I spray it?

    Sorry to sound like such a dolt. I'm one of those who usually takes the car to a mechanic or the dealer for whatever is needed.
  • Well, I figured it did. Its not stalling anymore or surging like it was. It's surging a very little bit when sitting still. We are having the O2 sensor replaced this week. Then if it doesn't work back to the dealership it goes. :confuse:
  • its gonna be on the front side of the window, thats where mine was squeaking...the guy told me he sprayed some "watered-down"
    Armor All down the window track and that apparently took care of it. Probably best to do it with the window all the way down and apply it to the front side of the window edge and just let it run down.
  • nothing wrong with getting the parts replaced, it's a lease, you are covered all the way even if it breaks again. But if you want to foce the dealer to replace the car then look into the lemon law for your state. Generally if you get a car with excessive issues then lemon law could apply.
  • I saw many questions on O2 sensors so I figured I'd put in my 5 cents. O2 sensor measures the amount of oxygen in your exhaust and depending on that amount it determines if your gas-to-air mixture is lean or rich. The mixture will never be perfect and the the O2 sensor will send a signal to the computer to increase or decrease the amount of injected gas to bring it as close to perfect as possible. This happens many times per second and a good O2 sensor will make the computer constantly switch from lean to rich so that in the long run you get close to perfect mixture. So, yes, bad O2 sensor will cause an incorrect amount of gas to be injected, most likely more then necessary. A non working O2 sensor actually causes your car to go into the closed loop and the most gas is burned. O2 sensors start operating at high temperatures and therefore they don't work when you start the car in the morning. This is why you get high rpms in the morning until the car worms up and starts using the O2 sensor.
  • Hello, I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima Se. Very Recently the clutch start to feel very spongy. Now, when pressed it will not come all the way back without me pulling it up. And when fully depressed it is hard to get the car in gear.
    Does anyone know what this might be?
    Thank you.
  • I know that premium grade is recommended, but not required. I've been using mid-grade (between premium & regular) for over a year now and it's been running fine. I am thinking about switching it to regular grade since it's a 10-yr old car now. Any pros and cons? BTW, my friend at work has a '96 Maxima and he has almost 300K miles , amazing engine... According to him, nothing major has been done to his car
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Wait until you're low on fuel and then pump in about half a tankful of 87 pump octane regular grade. Several miles should tell you whether the motor will ping on the cheap juice. (On a high mileage car, it might because of carbon build-up on combustion chamber surfaces.) If no pinging occurs under heavy load, you're good to go - the knock sensors are telling the ECM to dial back ignition advance enough to avoid damaging pre-ignition. All you give up are single digit amounts of top end power which is unlikely to be noticeable unless you drive competitively or haul heavy loads. However, if you do hear staccato pinging (sounds kinda like marbles bouncing around in an empty tin can - more intense when you floor the accelerator), fill the tank up the rest of the way with 91 octane unleaded premium. The mix will effectively end up close to 89 pump octane mid-grade. Thereafter, stick 89 pump octane mid-grade.
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