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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • You are precisely describing the (gradually worsening) problem I had with my 2000 GLE. It will continue to get worse to the point where it will barely move. The problem was the Airflow Meter (or Mass airflow sensor). Nissan has redesigned that component. Take you car (and lots of $$) to a Nissan dealer. The ECM has to be reflashed as well. Hope that helps. Good Luck
  • I've been plagued with warped front brake rotors on my 2000 Maxima since it was new. Apparently, this is a common problem...the OE rotors are simply too small...they overheat and warp. I've decided to try a set of Brembo cross-drilled rotors (OE size). My question is..what type of brake pads should I use. Does anyone have any experience with ceramic pads? Do you recommend them over standard metallic pads?
  • mj9981mj9981 Posts: 11
    Get factory belts. Cheap labor means cheap parts. Buy parts online at
  • I had the EXACT same problem with my '99 last year at around 90,000 miles. It drove me nuts becasue it was random and didn't leave any error codes for my dealer to find in my multiple trips to him over several months. I also couldn't find any information in this and other forums. It never got to the point you are at (check engine light staying on) but it was completely fixed by replacing the ignition coil in one of my cylinders. It wasn't too expensive ($275) and it has run great for another 25,000 miles. Hope this helps in time!
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    bad coils usually produce an error code and without it you need a real good mechanic to determine a misfire. I wouldn't throw money at coils if you are not sure that is the problem, they are not cheap.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    mattoaktree, as you can see you are getting different suggestions from people based on their own experiences. There may be many reasons for your car stuttering, did you get the codes out of your computer, what were they?
  • Havn't gotten the code yet. I did stop into one of the Autozones, but the guy said he couldn't get a good connection so he couldnt read it......I think I'll attemt it again at a different Autozone over the weekend.
    Thanks to everyone for your ideas!
  • I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima SE.

    I recently made a disasterous error when installing a remote starter and keyless entry system. When wiring in the keyless entry, the instructions gave options for 3 types of door locks, and I wired according to the wrong option (I wired for "type C" locks, and it should have been "type B").

    Symptoms: When I press the driver's window button in the driver's door, all you hear is a quiet double click coming from the switch. The motor makes no noise, and of course the window doesn't move.

    Also, driver's door power locks have stopped functioning. The lock actuator is not responsive. However, if all of the doors in the car are unlocked, and I manually lock the driver's door, the other three doors will also lock automatically.

    Questions: Is it possible that lock actuator and the window motor are individually fused? If so, where are the fuses for these two parts? After checking carefully, none of the fuses in the car in all fuse locations are blown. How can I be sure that the actuator and motor are definitely dead?

    Also, can anyone tell me where I can find detailed instructions for removing and replacing the lock actuator and window motor in a 99 Maxima? The Haynes manual only offers generic info, and after attempting to remove the two bolts that secture the lock actuator to the door, the actuator wouldn't budge.

    Your help is appreciated.
  • The other day I started my 99 nissan maxima and it died. I went to start it again and it cranks but will never start up. It has spark and fuel pressure. I changed the camshaft and the crank shaft senor tests good. The coils all test good. The PCM is not grounding the injectors. They have voltage though. I read some things about the security system doing this to the car. The security light stays on when the ignition is in the on position but someone told me that if it was the security system it wouldn't have any spark. Anybody have any idea on what my problem may be? Thanks!
  • Well if you have spark and fuel pressure and no start then logic dictates that the injectors aren't firing. Not sure what controls that process on your car, sorry.
  • was wondering if anyone experienced this before.... my front passenger tire on my 2000 maxima is wearing out alotttt quicker than my other 3 tires... it looks to be wearing evenly though, so i don't think its an alignment problem... anyone have a clue?
  • That would not be uncommon on a FWD car with decent horsepower, especially if you don't rotate the tires frequently. The right front tire generally takes the most torque from the engine.
  • Mike, Did you ever get an answer to this question? Jane
  • gtwgtw Posts: 46
    Does anyone have a link with instructions on replacing a Xenon bulb? It is not as simple as raising the hood and replacing one from what I see. Looks like several pieces need to be removed in order to get to the housing.
  • I seem to have similar problems. Could you please guide me? Five months ago I got a SES light and stalled car. Took the 01 Max to a mechanic and he said I had to have MFC replaced and I had it changed (~$700). A month ago the SES light started coming back on. I took it to a parts store and they gave me the two codes you mentioned in your earlier posts, P0420 and P0430. The mechanic told me that I have to replace the whole catalytic converter etc (>$3000). The car is not under warranty since it has 93000 miles. According to one of the TSB's I read, ECM reprogramming may be a solution. But since I got both the codes now rather than earlier, I am suspecting that may be something wrong on some parts. May be my oxygen sensors are bad. Do you think that may be something I should try? Do you suspect I may have to go through the expensive cat replacement?
  • I have a 2002 Maxima SE and occasionally when i use my cd player the left speakers front and back go completely out and most recently the front passenger side has been going out but once i switch back to the AM/FM stereo all speakers work again. So its only when the CD player is on that this problem is occurring. I have no clue where i would begin to look for the problem. Has anyone else experienced any issues like this? I have been debating to just take it to a nissan dealer but i just dont want to spend a whole lot of money... I appreciate any help i can get. ;) Thanks!
  • phopho Posts: 9
    I had the same problem years ago .I went to the dealer & they fixed it for free. This is a known issue on that problem because Nissan use the cheap Bose system. There is a TSB# but I could not find it.Anyway the dealer should replace the system with no charge. Good luck
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    I am not sure what's MFC, may be a MAFS (Mass Air Flow Sensor)? - that costs $105 from dealer and replacement is 15 minutes, if that was it then you should use another mechanic.

    Any way, P0420 and P0430 are specific codes for three-way catalysts. Your car has 2 pre-cats and then one big main cat. You seem to have error codes, which may indicate that both pre-cats are bad. These codes are produced as a result of rear O2 sensors monitoring the amount of oxygen exiting the catalysts. Some people say that replacing rear O2 sensors is the right thing to do. I don't really know, a bad O2 sensor has its own error code... When I had P0430 code, it was really one of the cats but the dealer made me change the rear O2 sensor on it as well otherwise he wouldn't honor the warranty. The O2 was good, that I know for sure. So, I am not sure if your O2s are bad.

    Bad catalysts usually smell, give your car some gas, see if you feel the sulfur smell, if you do then this is it.

    Search online for Technical Service Bulletin(TSB) NTB00-070a. There is a ECM number under your hood and if it matches the ones listed in this TSB then your ECM needs to be reprogrammed. Should be around $90 at Nissan dealer. You should also check for intake and exhaust leaks as they can be the cause of these codes as well.
  • You are absolutely right. It was the Mass Air Flow Sensor that the mechanic changed and charged me $700 for it.
    I am not sure if the dealer would honor my catalyst warranty since the car has >93000 miles, but as you suggest, I shall take it to the dealer to see if they say I need to replace the entire catalytic converter or change the O2 sensors.
    You guessed it right again. I was getting sulfur smell when the car was parked in the garage immediately after it came back from a road trip. I had the TSB you referred to for the last month or so and was hoping that it might just be a matter of reprogramming. It does apply to my car. There was no easy way for me to locate the ECM part #. The only suspicion I have is why didn't the SES light come on now rather than long ago. It kinda leads to me to agree with your earlier statement that there may be bad catalysts or malfunctioning O2 sensors. There may also be intake/exhaust leak as you suggest.
    So, I guess I will take it to a dealer and have them analyze and hope it is not the same $3000 job the other mechanic says my car needs.
    Thanks a lot for taking the time to analyze my problem.
  • dmaljunkdmaljunk Posts: 160
    well, if are taking it to the dealer then keep in mind that the dealer is always interested in replacing parts and as many parts as they can justify. I am sure they would suggest replacing both cats and all O2 sensors. The visit to them with SES light on will definitely cost you $90 just for diagnostic and in that case you should get the dealer to re-program your computer as per that TSB and clear the error codes at that visit. Do that and drive until you get the SES light again, it's possible that because of reprogramming, the codes may be more specific to O2 sensors next time.
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