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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • konelkonel Posts: 3
    I went to the line going into the heater core that has the valve in it and I disconnected the vacum line that pulls the valve open.Then I manualy engaged the valve lever. I know the valve is working because before I moved the valve the heater hose is getting hot up to but not beyond the valve,Once I open the valve the hose gets hot on the back side of the valve going into the heater core but the return hose
    back to the engine never gets even warm. :confuse:
  • You might try that compressed air trick I mentioned.
  • My 1999 Maxima has the same problem. Once it happened the "Service Engine Soon" light will be on. How did you fix it? Thanks for your kind reply.
  • How does one go about re-setting the sun roof on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. It opens but wont close all the way. When you open it, it stops about every 3-4 inches then it would not close and after messing with the button it closed but not tight. Then I finally got it to close and have not opened for fear of not being able to close it. Somewhere I heard of re-setting the computer, but I dont know the procedure to do that...
    Thanks for any and all help in advance,
  • GP, shimed in and gave me this procedure to re-program the sun roof on my 2004 Maxima.

    I am a Nissan rep and have seen this many times. Ussualy happens after changing a battery but it could be anything. Your absolutley right it is not a motor it just needs to be reprogrammed. I have heard some dealers try charge for a power motor for the roof etc,etc... But all you have to do to reprogram it is. Hold the button to open. It will open partially. Once that happens hold the button again to open. It will go back further. Now continue this process till the roof opens completely. Than proceed to close the roof in the same fashion all the way untill it tilts up and than back down to closed position. That is the process to reprogram the roof. It may take a couple of cycles but it will work! After the first attempt try it. Good luck. The whole process should take 5 minutes or less. DOn't let anyone tell you different. I have done plenty of these.

  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
  • jay116jay116 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a nissan maxima 3.5SE. I currently have 3800 miles. The dealer service manual reccommends service at 3750 miles. Should I service the vehicle and follow the manual or should I wait to maybe 5000 miles or another recoomended mielage amount. Also, should I go to the dealer to service my vehicle since my car is new still under warranty? Or should i go elsewhere to service my vehicle like a firestone?
  • alexstorealexstore Posts: 264
    since its your baby, if I were you, I will take care of it and follow manual's , not dealer's maintenance procedures. Some can be skipped. I personally baby my car with syntetic oil every 3750 miles major maintenance at 15000 and transmission oil/coolant flash every 30000. Now under normal conditions, your front brakes should last 40k+ and tires ( if you have originals) 60K.
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    My sisters car, so debugging long distance... Hasn't been running right for a few months. Based on the symptoms (see below) I thought bad plug wire or coil pack, but that seems to have been tried. Anyone have a bright idea? Fuel pump?

    A/T, about 70K on it I think.

    It's been in 3 times and yesterday they said it was fine. I drove 1 mile home and it started to miss-fire pulling in the garage. I went out an hour later to a restaurant in town and it was a bucking bronco every time I had to idle. It runs fine as long as my foot is on the gas. I've had a coil and injector, plugs and filters replaced

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • I have an 03 Maxima GLE that I bought new. Sometimes, after stopping for a traffic light for example, I'll step on the gas to resume travel and nothing happens for about a second or two and then it kicks in - during all of this time the shift handle has remained in the same Drive position (I'm not manually shifting through D1, D2, etc.).
    This did happen once or twice in the past and I figured it would never be reproducible at the dealership, but the other night it made itself very obvious when it hesitated off the line for longer than just a couple of seconds, and during the hesitation period it was obvious that the car was ever so slowly moving forward until it finally kicked fully into gear. My car has only 30K miles on it but is out of warranty (the three year default warranty). Question - is there a TSB that would cover this (this is not a fluid leakage problem), and isn't there a drive train warranty that covers this for a longer period of time? Thanks for any help with this.
  • oveyovey Posts: 2
    I have a 91 maxima, low miles for the age (abour 110). One day it just started running very rough, like a cylinder wasn't firing. I don't know enough to diagnose it though. Mechanic said one piston wasn't firing due to clogged fuel injector. Naturally, it's like a million dollars to replace it (and the rest, might as well based on the age). I tried some fuel injector cleaner off the shelf, but it didn't work. The car isn't worth but $1200 so I don't want to spend much to get it running smoothly - any ideas? Thanks!
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 13,602
    Well, the other culprits for that symptom are a bad coil pack (although i don't know if a '91 has individual coil packs, the little gizmo that sits on top of each spark plug boot), or even simpler, a bad spark plug wire.

    I had this problem on my Contour once. It suddenly started running like a threshing machine, and it turned out to be a broken plug wire. new wires and it ran like new.

    You can also have the injectors cleaned instead of replacing them. And it only 1 is bad, you don't really have to replace them all at the same time.

    If you haven't ever done plugs and wires, might want to do that anyway.

    2013 Acura RDX (wife's), 2007 Volvo S40 (when daughter lets me see it), 2000 Acura TL (formerly son's, now mine again), and new Jetta SE (son's first new car on his own dime!)

  • dgm1974dgm1974 Posts: 4
    Hello, I just bought a 1991 nissan maxima last sunday, & it has problem like it doesnt shift to 3rd gear anymore. Have any idea what is the problem? The seller said its probably the speed sensor as per mechanic said to him. The speedometer is no longer working too.Any help? Thanks. :confuse:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    I think your car is too old for electronic shift technology. You'd best check your fluid level and if it's okay have a service done and filter change. If that doesn't cure it, you'll probably have to have a transmision shop look it over. It might be a sticking valve body, which I suspect is the case, or some other type of "internal leak".
  • dgm1974dgm1974 Posts: 4
    Thank you mr. shiftright. I will do what you've adviced. I'll post what happen nxt time.God bless..
  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    I have a 99 Maxima with $205K miles on it. My service engine light has been on for as long as I can remember. I had Autozone check it and the machine pulled codes P0400(Blocked or failed EGR valve) and P0138 (O2 sensor defective). I also had it checked by my mechanic a couple weeks later and he said no code was present and cleared it for me. Of course, a day later the light is back on. My questions are:

    Would autozone have a better reader and that's why codes were present?

    Can a mechanic tell if the O2 sensor and EGR valve is defective before replacing it?

    My car is running relatively good for the mileage and i would hate to spend $350 to $700 replacing these parts if its not going to make a difference.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    Is your car eating gas? Stalling or running a bit rough? Do you get a rotten egg smell from under the car?
  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    The last four times I've filled up I gotten between 23 - 26.5 miles a gallon, which is about average. The only thing I notice is when I decelerate and than hit the gas to pick up speed, the switching of gears is not that smooth.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,693
    The EGR valve can be tested with a simple vacuum tool; the 02 is harder to diagnose, but a good mechanic can do it with a sophisticated voltmeter (not a cheapie) and with the car running. He can also put a machine on to sniff the tailpipe to see if you are running richer than normal and therefore possibly damaging the catalytic.
  • og4lifeog4life Posts: 25
    Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. I went to AutoZone today and now the only code is the EGR valve. I guess the O2 sensor got better - lol.
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