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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • lovejplovejp Posts: 1
    I just had my vent blower go out. I took the dash apart and found that the wire plug going into the resistor had heated up and slagged. Is this a symptom of some wiring/relay defect or should replacing the resistor and plug solve the problem? The fan/motor seems okay though I don't have an electronic circuit tester. No fuses blew that I could find and no code was thrown. Any suggestions?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    Hard to predict but since melting is a sure sign of excessive resistance, one would suspect that replacing the resistor is, at least, a logical guess.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    And before putting everything back together watch and see if you have another meltdown. Better the resistor than a nuclear reactor.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    That's good advice. I'd test it out and watch it for a while.
  • I own a 2003 manual Maxima SE that has 150k miles. I have already had two complete engines replaced under warranty. Nissan could not (or would not) tell me why either of the engines replaced failed, though oil consumption was main indicator. Now the third engine is using oil (quart every 500 miles), even though engine only has 45k on it, and of course is no longer under warranty. I have never experienced this with any of the other vehicles I have owned, Nissan or otherwise. Has anyone heard of engine issues with the manual version of the Maxima??
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Maxima with 140K. We have a recent problem with a very rough idle when the car is engaged but stopped (doesn't happen in park). Car runs beautifully otherwise. Local mechanic said he could not see anything obvious and could not get enough information from the car and thought the cost of trouble shooting could easily exceed the worth of the car.
    Has any one experienced a similar problem?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Check you idle air controller.
  • thank you for putting this up as i am having the same problem with my one of my o2 sensors. i understand that in order to fix the problem i need to replace both of the o2 sensors followed by an ECM reprogram. my question is, if i wanted to save myself the labor costs of replacing the o2 sensors would it be harmful to my motor/what would be the effect of replacing the sensors at home then to drive a few miles to the dealer to have the ECM reprogram done. also cant any shop do a reprogram or is that something only a dealership can do? thank you for your time MR SHIFTRIGHT
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    just keep this in mind. I have now replaced the o2 sensor three times. Once with a local shop and twice with the dealer. Every winter it has difficulty starting and the check engine light comes on. I had enough of replacing these sensors and have driven the car for five years now. The dealer also replace the wiring harness thinking it might be a worn wire.... no, $1500 later I have the same problem but it does not impact the drivability.
  • bode3bode3 Posts: 3
    thanks. I actually took the car out and really pushed it uphill. It made a big difference. I think short drives were creating a build up of carbon. 13 years old and still a nice ride.
  • thanks for the input, but it didn't really answer my question. can i drive the car a short distance after replacing the o2 sensor but before the reprogram, just to get it to the dealer?
  • Alright, I just changed the spark plugs and did a throttle body cleaning on an 03 maxima and after I put it back together the check engine light is on. Do nissans have that battery disconnection issue, I dont know. If some one could please help. Thanks
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    How did you clean the throttle body? Using throttle body cleaner, deep creep? Something that could affect the O2 sensors?

    Try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes. If the problem reoccurs could be something occured during the cleaning process that's throwing off the O2 sensors.
  • kanej316kanej316 Posts: 2
    I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima that won't start. When I put the key in the ignition and turn it all the lights come on and the stereo comes on, but when I turn the key further to start the car nothing happens. It doesn't even make any kind if noise or clicking or anything. I'm a single mom who knows nothing about cars, and I'm having to do this on my own for the first time, so any suggestions on what the possible problems could be would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Sounds like your starter died.
  • kanej316kanej316 Posts: 2
    On the lower dash of my car underneath the lever to pop my hood there are fuses. There has been no cover on them since the day I got the car, and I am now having someone look at my car and they have requested that I find something on-line that describes what the fuses are. Again, I know nothing about cars so my apologies if I am making no sense. Anyone know how I can find information like this? I have been driving myself crazy trying to find it on-line!! Thank you for all your help!
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    Send me an e-mail.
  • tb4metb4me Posts: 41
    same here changed the plugs cleaned the uper manifold and throttle body and wa-la--engine light is on. I have been driving with it on for about 3 weeks and it went off finally. i did pull the battery cables off over night and it made no difference. Fuel economy is good so i'm just driving it.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    I am curious; at what mileage did you change your plugs? I am just below 50k on my 03 Max SE. Today i got new rear brake pads, the first real mx i had to do except for new tires at 35k. Still a great car...
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Posts: 71
    05 Maxima with 105k miles. Just yesterday automatic trans started "searching" all over, no consistency, sometimes shifted down, sometimes up, tachometer would shoot up then drop down suddenly - did this while accelerating and also at consistent speeds it sounded as though the gear was too low. Problem appeared after 45 min drive in 85 degree heat so it was hot.

    This morning I checked trans fluid per nissan recommendations driving car for 5-10 mins first. Fluid actually was above "hot" zone on the dipstick, even as far as where the bends in the rod are. Not sure how this can be. No fluid was added recently.

    Any ideas anyone? How is the auto trans fluid cooled on this model? Thanks in advance.
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