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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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  • Have you checked the fuses?
  • I have a 2005 Nissan Maxima that the A/C blower fan quit working. All fuses are ok and the fan switch shows the fan speed advancing but no air flow. Any help with whats wrong?
  • The fan might be controlled by a relay. You might check your owner's manual to identify which relay this is. If you are clever with electrics you might pop the switch out and by-pass it and see what happens.

    You might also try this with the engine off-- perhaps the fan is only working on low speed and you can't hear it with the car running. That would indicate then that the resistor controlling fan speed is the problem.
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    Oceanblue, I think i have the same problem with my Maxima ' 97. After stopping on a traffic light, when light changes to green and I take my foot from the brake and put it on gas the car either shuts down or it feels like it doesn’t want to go on the first gear, no matter how hard I push the pedal. If it shuts down, it usually restarts in about 20 seconds. It happens few times a day, not all the time.
    Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
    Don't know what to do anymore.
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    I think i have the same problem with my Maxima ' 97. After stopping on a traffic light, when light changes to green and I take my foot from the brake and put it on gas the car either shuts down or it feels like it doesn’t want to go on the first gear, no matter how hard I push the pedal. If it shuts down, it usually restarts in about 20 seconds. It happens few times a day, not all the time.
    Mechanics are unable to determine the problem and i already spent $500 on same things you did.
    Don't know what to do anymore.
  • I had a similar problem with my 98 SE. When accelerating from a stop position, the car would jerk and not want to go. It was almost the same feeling as if the clutch was let out too fast on a manual transmission. My car was diagnosed by our mechanic as needing a new mass air flow sensor. This was replaced (total cost was around $450-$500) and the issue hasn't occurred since.

    Good luck.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    It's either the mass air flow sensor or the throttle position sensor.
  • galka5galka5 Posts: 5
    Thank you so much
  • jorghijorghi Posts: 3
    Not to worry. After a spark plug replacement, you will get codes because you disconnected a bunch of wires. Just reset the codes ( or have them reset at a place like AutoZone) . In a couple of weeks the engine computer will collect enough data and you can pass inspection etc.. will be A-Ok.
  • jorghijorghi Posts: 3
    If this is a stick shift, make sure you are pushing the clutch pedal all the way down.
  • ashmaxashmax Posts: 1
    I took my maxima in for an inspection and it did not pass due to the service engine light being on. The mechanic said 3 fault codes popped up which were: P0110, P0325, and P0100.
    A friend said my O2 sensor might need to be changed and it would correct all those codes.
    If anyone knows anything further on this and know how much $$$ this might end up costing me please give me some input!

    Thank you!
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor)
    P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
    P0110 IAT Circuit Malfunction

    You need to replace a knock sensor on bank 1, MAF, Intake Air Temperature is usually a function of the MAF so I'd replace the MAF and check it from there.

    BTW, I don't see anything relating to the O@ sensors. So how did your friend figure this out?
  • computer codes don't identify the defective component. All they can do is tell you the system, circuit or component that is currently unhappy. As to WHY it's unhappy, that requires further hands-on diagnostics. The MAF can be tested and that's an excellent place to start.
  • 99max299max2 Posts: 2
    I have a 99 maxima, its been a great vehicle for its 240k. after the 1st 100k i made the stalling go away with O2, plugs, coils, mass air flow being replaced, even at 190 when it returned i replaced O2 plugs, coil and mass air flow. but it isnt going away. for a day it will run fine then slowly start back.
    It boggs down when first taking off. Then as it warms up it becomes more pronounced. Soon even when running at higher speeds the RPMs drop. At this point it wont idle in park and can become very hard to start again.
    I never have replaced the Idle air control valve. Thats my next step. any other sugestions ? I dont wont to get rid of it. The engine and transmission and appearance are stll very good. But when after bringing it to Nissan and they could not ID it I am very discouraged.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    When was the last time you changed out the catalytic converters? Those will definitely plug after awhile. While you should get a check engine light when they go bad, sometimes you don't.
  • 99max299max2 Posts: 2
    I have not replaced and the dealership has not suggested that on this problem. My emissions inspection passes very well. Maybe it has lasted so long because i only use bp premium. Thank you for your reply and i will check converters too.
  • rexkayrexkay Posts: 1
    On my 96 the map sensor was heat sensitive and gave me problems as the day got hotter. After coils, plugs, and maf , I wrapped the map sensor with a rag and duck taped it. Ran great when kept cool so I replaced it and problem was solved. If it is running really bad pull a couple plugs and if they are fouled I bet it is the map sensor.
  • November 22 was the first full very cold day, in the Northeastern NJ area (suburb of NYC). I found that when I started my 2001 Maxima GLE, the steering seemed to be locked. I could turn the wheel, but it was as if the car was in neutral with the engine off.

    This is happening while the car is stopped in drive or when it is in park. When I depress the accelerator while in drive to move the car, the steering returns to almost normal function (still has a bit of sluggishness). After letting the car warm for a while the steering almost returns to normal, with the exception that when turning the wheel to the furthest extreme of the turning radius, I feel the wheel giving jerking resistance to the car being turned.

    I checked the power steering fluid level, and it is between the cold maximum and cold minimum levels. Is this the power steering pump? Could there be moisture in the power steering fluid, which has frozen?? Or could air in the power steering fluid lines cause this? What is casing this problem?
  • I have a 2.5 inch header and a 21/4 short pipe with glass pack on this car. I has a bad miss. It only does it on startup. It stops as you drive it. But at low rpm it does it. Driving down the road, in overdrive it does it. I thought that the short pipe would cause this, being that the o2 is not holding heat. I'm lost and would love some advice. Like I said it comes and goes.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Are you running double gaskets where the header meets the exhaust? Depending on the manufacturer of the headers there might be a small gap that a second gasket would eliminate.
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