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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    Just letting you all know that, in the final analysis, this $2865 repair quoted by the dealer was nowhere near justified. To the guys that suggested putting in two oxygen sensors in bank 1...you were correct. After replacing the two O2 sensors in that bank...all codes have been clear for a month and I have a brand new inspection sticker. As a side benefit the car is also running alot smoother and the gas mileage I get is a heck of alot better than what it was!! Thanks for your help...I saved about $2300 dollars here on this forum..and the dealer can go pound sand.
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Good for You, I guess We are gonna have to stick together as a car community, cause the companies think We have to buy their car,s They are gonna rape us. I sometimes wonder if it would,nt be easier to go back to riding horse,s. Remember this experiance, cause it seems this is the standard for Nissan. If enough people quit buying nissan and reported to them why, I bet they would change there damn tune then. As much money as they have made off American,s and let those crooked little dealers rape customer,s. They better screen out their sale,s people or it will catch them. Yeh, I get alittle bent outta shape bout that stuff! Cause there are people that work their butt off to buy these car,s, Me being one of them and then get done dishonest, Has Nissan forgot that they were just second best to Toyota,s durabillity and quality? My Dad has baught three new Toyota,s and He and His whole family get treated like royalty from the first one to the last. and never had a question if they would do the right thing or not. maxman7
  • jrockettjrockett Posts: 1
    I have a 91 maxima and my car starts when it wants to,the person i purchase the car from stated that it only happens when its cold out because the gas freezes.But lately it's been warm outside and my car will not start it tries but it will not catch and if I keep trying it cuts off completely like the battery died out,also when I'm driving the gear has slipped a couple of times.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    I have only 56k miles on my Max but i need new front rotors because the [non-permissible content removed] at my local brake shop cut them down to .872 from .925 (minimum is .866). Recently my brakes have been noisy and seem to take longer to stop (probably in my head).

    My research on rotors shows they are mostly made in China now [even from the big names like Wagner (125799) and NAPA Ultimate(880074)] so how do i decide which ones to get? any suggestions?
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Hello, maxman7 here, Yes Your correct they are produced oversea,s. But isnt everything? If You look closely on a Ford or Chevy, You will see the relays computers and ETC. are foreign made. To answer Your question, Wagner and Napa are good brake products. I use Wagner thermo-Quiet pads on My maxima, They are the best I have used yet.As for Your stopping performance, if You got any grease or brake fluid on them they can grab or not perform well,but chances are it is from having them turned, Never do that as Your stopping is more important than Your going,it is Your life depending on Your bakes to stop. And rotors are just not that high, You can get a good set of front for around $80.00,and a premium set for 200.00. Did You change the pads when You had the rotors turned? If the rotors were re-installed faulty You may well have damaged the pads.And if You install new rotors with bad pads You can damage the rotors, If You hav,nt drove much with the turned rotors Your probably ok. If You really want premium rotors I suggest willwood cross-drilled rotors. They are the ones have all the holes in them to release heat and debris.If you are on a budget like Myself wagner or Napa are fine and carry a pretty competative warranty. I promise You If You try Wagner Thermo-quiet,ceramic pads You will never use anything else. Absolutely no brake dust on Your wheels,no squealing with great heat transfer. all this adds up to great stopping power and many,many more miles on both rotorsand pads before another change. I an very poor but I will not skip on My brakes as I have three kids,Me and My wife depending on them.Trust Me You will even feel safer knowing what Ya got . Good luck,and dont forget to check your back brakes also. Maxman7
  • dx1hfdx1hf Posts: 4
    My 2001 Maxima SE is starting to get a bit spongy/bouncy on all four corners of the car. It has 98,000 miles on it. What are my alternatives for "as-good or better than original equipment" shocks/struts/springs/bushings etc/? Can you guys recommend a good solution? Recently I cheaped-out on a set of shocks and struts for a Camry and got burned. The dealer wanted $2000 to replace the shocks and struts. So I went to Midas and they sold me junk for $500...said it was equal to OEM... but it turns out the shock piston is smaller. Now I can't drink coffee in that car without getting soaked. Don't want to go through this with the Max. LOL Have patience...I have alot of liars in my neigborhood but I learn fast.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    REF: 3970
    I have 2003 Max SE with only 56k miles on it. Recently i thought i had a front suspension issue but it turned out to be brake hardware. I researched struts/strut mounts just in case i needed to replace them. You can also check out the maxima.org web site (for true max geeks). I was going to get KYB GR2 struts for the front and the total parts cost was $300 (incl. shipping) from rockauto_dot_com You may be able to match that price locally as KYB is available at some retail stores...
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Posts: 536
    REF: 3969
    thanks for the inputs. As luck would have it, my local CAR-X (brake shop) did install Wagner pads as part of their $80 brake deal. i do have Thermoquiet on the front and they are great; also i have the lower end Quickstop on the rear and they are also quiet. My main issue is the rotors and i am leaning toward the NAPA Ultra Premium as they appear to be a reboxed Raybestos Advanced Technology set. I intend to reuse the front pads (only 2k miles on them) after a bit of sanding...thx
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Posts: 269
    Midas is there to rape the uninformed...

    I recently changed my shocks on my Infiniti I30..essentially the same car with KYB GR2 and am very happy with it. These are considered the entry level performance shocks.

    One thing to remember if you go to an independent shop that does not do Maxima's
    The bushing on the rear suspension torsion beam are oil filled and if the car is lifted by the torsion beam the bushing will leak. If that happens then you have to change the whole beam. The part itself is $600 and there are no aftermarket alternative.

    So why am I telling you this?
    It happened in my car.
    The point to lift the car is very close to the bushing and it can happen very easily and it happened in my car. In most cars the bushings can be replaced independent of the torsion beam and they are generally not oil filled. Thats not the case in Maxima.
    Just be cognizant
    Good luck
  • I have a 05 Maxima that i have recently purchased. Um, it seems to be making this loud schreeching sound every time I start the car.! What could that be and how can i fix it..Thanks for all your help in advance.
  • maxman7maxman7 Posts: 10
    Maxman7 here, Hopefully for You the screaching Your hearing is just a loose or dirty drive belt, If it seems to get louder or change when You turn the steering wheel it is more than likely a belt. If You are mechanical at all You can fix that, There are Two belts on it and two adjusters one for each belt. One is located by the altinator on top of engine,and other is located by the power steering pump,on the lower part of engine. On each of the adjusters there is a adjusting bolt and a locking bolt. Make sure to loosen the lock bolt before trying to adjust the adjusting bolt,and make sure to tighten the lock bolt back after adjustments have been made. For referance the lock bolt is on front of adjuster and the adjusting bolt is on the top. I cant name off the lbs. spec,s off the top of My head,but if Ya need to now I can get it off a download for maxima,s I have,and I can give You the site to download that from. It is the program that actual Nissan tech,s use to go by and it covers every single nut & bolt on Nissan,Maxima,s. If it turns out it is not a belt issue it may be a worn out timing chain tensioner , that is a very common,bad design on 04 and up Maxima,s that requires pulling the engine out of the car, a real bummer deal. I hope this helps You. Maxman7
  • vwakodevwakode Posts: 3
    My 98 nissan maxima is giving me hesitation when trying to speed up on the ramp, even after I had my transmission rebuilt last year (spent approx 2700) . I took my car back to the aamco and they said they did not find anything wrong with the transmission (computer readings).

    I had rebuilt my transmission last year with Aamco, less than a year after my car almost stopped on the road. wanted to keep the car for 2-3 years, and here you go it started giving me problems again. I have done all the services needed for the car but not sure what to do now?

    98 Nissan Maxima - GXE
    194000 miles currently
    185000 miles approx when the transmission was rebuilt by aamco.

    Any advise?
  • the power seatbelts, locks, windows, etc. fail to work all the time.....there will be no power to the car at all and wont start .......ten minutes later it will start no problem and the power works again but car continues to run rough
  • my 2000 maxima i think has a tranny problem and i need help. it shifts hard into 3rd that is with my help, i have to get it to around 4rpms and kind of give the gas a little tap then it shifts in. and it doesnt seem to want to go into 4th at all. it just revs up real high and nothing happens. is there a fix to this or do i need a new tranny. it has 179,000
    any help would be cool
  • I am the original owner of a 2K2 Maxima with a 6 speed manual transmission including the HLSD that has 104K miles on it. I noticed today that the transmission would sometimes make a quick clang (almost like a bell ringing, except it doesn't reverberate) shifting from 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd to 3rd. If I am very careful with depressing the clutch, I don't hear the clang. And it doesn't happen downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.

    I haven't had any issues with the transmission prior to this. I am on the original clutch. The car has seen mostly highway miles and it is regularly serviced. The car has been great except for the rear brakes rusting out at 85K.

    Anyone have an idea what this is?
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Posts: 263
    My guess is synchronizers. I'm also guessing you have never changed your transmission fluid. I'd change the fluid first using Red Line fluid and see what happens.
  • laurailaurai Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima SE, 6 speed with 126,000 miles on it. The ABS started making a "humming" noise. Note: Neither the ABS or Brake lights had come on. My dealer diagnosed the problem and stated both rear sensors would need to be replaced. After the diagnosis I drove the car 8 miles and the lights came on. My husband replaced both rear sensors - much cheaper than the dealer's quoted price. However, the lights are still on. My husband drove the car about 3 miles thinking the computer would reset itself - it did not. He also disconnected the battery - still it did not reset. He turned the key slowly and the lights are still on. Question: Does the dealer need to reset the computer? Is there another ABS module that has gone bad? Thanks for the help.
  • Thanks for the suggestion to change the fluid - I'll give it a shot.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    That problem dates back to the 02 model. I had mine replaced 4 times. Once they put one in brand new and didn't ever turn on. The last one worked for about a year before it started skipping and it graduated from just doing it in cold weather to all year round. Best you can do is go aftermarket. Crutchfield probably has one that will fit right in there. I just traded my 02 in two months ago. While I miss the car a little, I don't miss that jacked up cd player.
  • dr_rebeldr_rebel Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I recently bought a used 2001 Nissan Maxima SE with ~50,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape except for one thing. There is a humming noise coming from the passenger rear area. It starts around 25 mph, then gets loudest around 40 mph, and then it gets quieter (and higher in frequency) around 65 mph. The frequency increases with speed. It alsmot seems like a vinration that somehow gets transmitted through the suspension, I can even sense it with my feet when driving.

    I was convinced that it was the wheel bearing, so I had both passenger-sode wheel bearings replaced. The noise is still the same. The mechanics have been trying to blame it on noisy tires. I have Sunny SN3800 225/45R17 tires on it, which are almost brand new. At low speeds, especially when coming to a stop, the tires are very loud (they sound like riding a mountain bike on a road).

    Any ideas what this noise could be? Is it the tires, or something else?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as this noise drives me totally crazy.

    Martin
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