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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    Gee I don't know what to say. The ALLDATA database just says to remove the bulb--there's no mention of obstacles.

    It says:

    Bulb Replacement

    HEADLAMP
    Disconnect negative battery cable.
    Turn the plastic cap counterclockwise to unlock it from the combination lamp.
    Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to unlock it.
    Unlock the retaining spring and remove the bulb from the combination lamp.
    Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

    CAUTION: After installing the bulb, be sure to install the plastic cap securely to ensure watertightness.

    MODERATOR

  • jbarb10jbarb10 Posts: 1
    I have a 2k Maxima GLE that I can't figure out what is going on. While driving for about an hour or so and only while the weather is hot, the car will go into neutral and just rev. I will pull over and turn car off and after about 5 minutes start it back up and the the car will run fine. It will usually happen more often and predictably when the air condition is on and sitting idle. Anybody with any idea what is going on and how to repair.
  • melcot04melcot04 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Nissan Altima with 122k miles. Had the car for about 8 weeks. After about 4 weeks, the check engine light come on. Had it check and the code was P0400 which is suppose to be EGR valve. I took it apart and cleaned it, light came back on. I replaced it and light came back on. During this time, about 300 every miles, the car looses power, and intrument cluster stops working. My wife had been pulling off the road, sitting for about 20 minutes, starts the car back up and everything goes back to normal. Recently I was driving the car when it done this and I put the car in neutral and back to drive and the car returns to normal expect the cluster does not work. Cut the car off for about 10 minutes and cluster starts working again. It appears to be doing this a little more frequent now and do not understand why you can shift into neutral then back to drive and car runs normal. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced.
  • Were you having a shifting problem with your car. We are having a shifting problem on our 2006. Wondering if you had a similar problem.
  • Did you ever fix your slipping transmission. If so, what did you do to fix it? My 2006 Maxima is having a similar problem.
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    It turned out to be a faulty transmission fluid valve assembly. One of the valves had failed, making it impossible to maintain proper fluid pressure.

    Good news was that it was covered (just barely) by 60k powertrain warranty. Bad news was that they had to order the part, and when it arrived it was cracked and I had to take it back a second time. But the dealer was otherwise great and gave me no issues about fixing it.
  • 2k1max2k1max Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. Nissan garage couldn't figure it out because they wouldn't drive it long enough for it to happen. It turned out to be the vehicle speed sensor, a/k/a revolution sensor. There are 2 parts called "speed sensor" - Make sure you get the one that goes on the transmission, not on the axle. It will fix your problem.
  • murrow1murrow1 Posts: 1
    In Oct. 2010, my transmission started shifting hard between gears on my 2006 Maxima (approx. 78,000 miles). My extended warranty company paid to have the transmission repaired by installing a used one (49,000 miles.) It's now 8 months later and the same thing is happening again (with approx. 8,000 new miles on it.) Fortunately, the mechanics who put the used one in have a 1 year warranty, but I fear the same thing will happen again once another tranny is put in. Plus, my extended warranty expires in Nov. 2011.

    I would never buy another one...ever!
  • poodog13poodog13 Posts: 320
    Let me get this straight.....you'd NEVER buy this car again even though the problem didn't surface until over 78k miles? I'm sure there are plenty of stories of well over 100k trouble-free miles out there, but seems to me that many cars will start showing their age after 75k miles.

    Also, it's worth pointing out that the Maxima now uses an entirely different transmission.

    Finally, I had the same problem with my 2006, and it ended up being the tranny fluid pump, not the tranny itself. Perhaps the repair didn't address the real problem.
  • caugncaugn Posts: 30
    I feel your pain on the transmission. I had to replace the transmission in my '97 maxima in May 2010. No warranty so I put one in it from a junk yard. Of course my transmission issues didn't start until I had 200,000 miles on the car and the new (junk yard trans) had 110,000 on it. So I guess I should expect to start seeing transmission issues again around 300,000? Wow, so should I also never buy another Maxima?
  • Hi Nissan Maxima experts,

    I'm currently looking to replace the 3 motor mounts that have broken on my Nissan Maxima 2000 automatic, including the lower cradle mount (in between the right and left mount), the right passenger side mount, and the left radiator side mount. The older this car gets, the more expensive it's becoming to get it fixed. Rather than take it to a dealership, I would like to buy these parts inexpensively somewhere, and then take it to a repair shop for the labor of installing them. While I've discovered an inexpensive wholesaler to purchase the mounts from, I have yet to locate a reliable and inexpensive place to get the installation done. Would any Nissan Maxima 2000 experts here please give me an idea of how much I should expect to pay on the lower and upper ends to do the installation? I've heard that some places are likely to charge a single price for installing all 3 motor mounts. Help with this will go a long way for me and my pocketbook.

    Thank you in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    I'd figure about 4.5 hours total. There may be some time-saving in doing all three.

    I'm not so sure I agree with the way you are planning to do this, however. Most shops don't take all that kindly to having parts brought in from outside, and even if they are amenable to that, they will not warranty the labor should the part fail---so in other words, if you buy the part from them, and it fails, they replace it for free. If you bring them a part from who knows where, and it fails, YOU pay for the labor again, not them.

    So your plan has some risks and although the mounts are somewhat expensive, they aren't *that* expensive. I don't think your $100 or so savings is worth this risk...in my opinion.

    MODERATOR

  • A friend of mines replaced my leaking radiator the other day on my '97 Maxima. Ever since he replaced it, whenever the car is driven for more than 30 minutes and is then turned off, it won't re-start until it's completely cooled down (30-45 minutes later). I'll turn the key and nothing happens until the car has competely cooled down. Once it has cooled down, the car starts with no problem. There is no indication, in terms of the dashboard temp gage which stays in the normal range when it's being driven, that it's overheating. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? I'd appreciate any advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    I would say defective starter solenoid or defective ignition switch. This presumes that when you say "nothing happens" you mean that the starter motor doesn't even crank...you just get dashboard lights but no reaction from the starter motor.

    MODERATOR

  • Thanks for the quick response. Yes, when I say nothing happens I mean that the starter motor doesn't crank at all. How can I tell which one it is (starter solenoid or defective ignition switch) and would this be caused by changing the radiator? There were no symptoms of this type prior to that repair being done. Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    Well I have no idea what the connection is to the radiator but I'd ignore that for the moment and get to the diagnosis of the problem at hand.

    What you (or someone) can do would be to locate the ignition switch wire that attaches to the starter solenoid (on the starter). In other words, when you turn the key to start, a signal is sent along that wire to the starter solenoid. So you should be able to read that signal with a simple test light at the starter motor solenoid "tab" (usually a pull-off connector). The test light should come one and off as you turn the key to start, and then release it.

    If there IS a signal, then the starter solenoid or starter motor must be at fault. If there is no signal, then the ignition switch, or the wiring or connectors attached to it, must be at fault.

    Another idea from left field is something flakey in your anti-theft system.

    MODERATOR

  • atlmikeatlmike Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have recently replaced a bad battery (it had a small crack in it around the negative terminal). My car sometimes starts automatically and other times takes several cranks to start. The engine has roughly 139000 miles on it. I had the starter tested at the parts store and it passed. I then took a reading when it started it had 12v at the starter and when it didn't it had only 7volts. Any suggestions on what to try next? Thank you!
  • The engine of my 2000 Maxima is really loud and grinding when I first start it, then as I start to drive, the noise fades away and it sounds fine until I stop. When I start it up again the sound is back. Started happening right after an oil change at Firestone with high mileage 10W30 oil with sealmax. Do you think it's related?
  • my maxima was leaking oil out of the filter unexpectedly and i didnt kno it till the car stalled and didnt start again what are my odds please help
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