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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • pdchappdchap Posts: 1
    insert new 15 amp fuse & hit brake pedal & the fuse blows. tried several & they just keep blowing. any ideas out there ??
  • sandalsandal Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Maxima SE, 109K miles. Stick shift, recent clutch change. No major problems yet but since it is over 100K miles and the car is getting old, was wondering till when can I expect to drive this car relatively trouble-free. Hoping to get some feedback from owners of similar vintage as well as others.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586

    I expect it to last to about 250-300kms w/no issues. As long as you maintain it properly, don't worry too much.


    PS My Protege is also great BTW :)
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There are several possibilities:

    1. Defective brake light switch located under the brake pedal. The switch could be shorting to ground internally when activated. The best way to determine if the switch is shorting to ground is to bypass the switch by disconnecting the leads from it and jumpering the leads to complete the circuit. If the fuse does not blow, then the switch has a short.

    2. If bypassing the switch test still blows the fuse, you may have a brake light wiring short somewhere downstream of the brake switch, shorting to ground becuase of damaged insulation. Trace the wires from the switch if the switch turns out not to be faulty.
  • jg28jg28 Posts: 257
    I have an 02 Maxima SE. I recently upsized my tires to the 225/55/17 (instead of the 225/50/17) and I think the ride quality is NOTICEABLY IMPROVED. Granted, I switched to a grand touring tire instead of a sport tire but these tires corner even better than those horrid RE 92s.

    Bumps aren't as harsh, pavement changes are less noticeable, and the ride is quieter (so much so that I notice I have the rear window air leaks that there is a TSB for).
  • I purchased a 2004 SE in March and have had several problems with the car. First the engine service light keeps coming on when I get to a half tank of gas. It has been back to the dealer four times for the same problem. Dealer replaced the gas cap and adjusted the emission computer settings as per a Nissan bulletin. So far it seems to have taken care of the problem. Then yesterday driving to work I noticed a stream of water dripping from the sun glass compartment located in the overhead compartment. I am assuming that the sunroof is leaking. Has any other 04 owners experienced this problem. The car is do to go back to the dealer this Friday.
  • I've read a bunch of the posted messages and am awed by the number of owners who have had similar experiences. My car has had issues with service light on, warped front rotors, and stalling. I brought the car to the dealer who told me I needed new coils ($700), new NOx sensor ($450) and computer programming ($186). The dealer told me to call the helpline which was a waste of time. Since my car was out of warranty (approx. 80K and less than 4 years old), Nissan would not provide any assistance. The dealer told me that if I had regularly serviced the car with the dealership, then they would have petitioned Nissan in my behalf. Since I hadn't, tough luck. I eventually had my mechanic replace the O2 sensor for $200 and the dealer reprogrammed my computer (which Nissan would have reimbursed if I had less than 80K.) The car runs fine now without new coils. I'll get the rotor replaced (second time) soon. Also, I want to mention that I was not given the opportunity to have an audience with the Nissan area representative who appears to be this mystical being whom noone can contact. After all this, and the overwhelming client service that Nissan and the dealer provided me, this longterm Nissan owner (3 cars) will not purchase another Nissan product. Maybe its time to try an Audi or BMW which cost the same as or less than a 2004 Maxima SE and give free maintenance up to 50k.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Recent Maxis had their issues that's for sure.

    " Maybe its time to try an Audi or BMW which cost the same as or less than a 2004 Maxima SE and give free maintenance up to 50k"

    Stick with the Maxima - those headaches will cost you even more.

    PS: Who really is a Mazda6 and Mazda3 fan but drives a Maxima.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    There is no way you can get a 260 HP Audi or BMW for the price of a Maxima. Not even a base model.

    My neighbor paid $ 40K plus tax for a 2003 BMW 330Ci two door coupe with leather, sport package, and no sunroof. This car is much smaller than 2004 Maxima, has a tiny trunk, and has a 3 liter V6 engine with about 220 HP.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Same with the Audi. They ain't cheap either.
  • I have a problem with a very loud ticking (sounds like a couple of ball bearings being shaken violently in a can) during acceleration from 0 up to 60km and then it stops. It's a lot worse in the summer and almost non existent in the winter. my problem is it doesn't do it all the time when I take it to the dealer they can't find any problems sometimes it's so loud im afraid to accelerate the car. does anyone have any ideas.
  • I've got a rear seatbelt buckle that locks correctly but is sticky when you try to release it. Pushing release all the way down and it sometimes doesn't want to release.

    * Has anyone else had this problem?
    * Gotten it fixed?
    * Did the dealer charge you anything?
    (I'm at 20,000 miles)

  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    That is "pinging" or preignition. Use higher octane fuel to stop it. Pinging gets worse when the air temp. is higher, under hard accelleration, and at higher altitudes. Basically, it is caused by the fuel burning too fast. To slow it down, you increase the "octane rating". Octane is a hydrocarbon that burns slowly, and is used as a standard for measuring fuel burn rate. Contrary to popular "knowledge", high octane fuels do not contain more power. Often they contain less, these days, as to increase the rating ethanol is added, which has less energy than the other components of gasoline. It does burn cleaner, however.

    You may have a "carbon clogged" engine, from using high toluene fuel. The carbon can run red hot and preignite the mixture in the engine. It can be cleaned out at reasonable cost. Dealers, and oil change places can do this for you.
    Another possibility is a sensor has worn enough so it's affecting the ECUs ability to control the engine, but has not yet failed enough to trigger the check engine light (service engine soon in Nissans, as I recall).

    You should get it fixed, as eventually it will damage valves or pistons.
  • Is anyone getting a vibration, raddle or something loose coming from the power sun roof in the 2004 Maxima, espacially riding over bumps. If so, what was your solution.
  • I just found a small screw in my rear passenger tire. I took it to a tire place to patch it and they told me they can't because it's too close to the wall of the tire and I need to buy a new tire. My car only has 900 miles/4 weeks old. I'm taking it back to the dealership hoping that they can replace it under warrenty. What do you think?
  • My first guess was a sensor malfunction, I recently had my drive clean emission test done and the readings were almost flat ruling out carbon buildup . I use premium 91 octane fuel always but I do buy from esso which is supposed to be very dirty fuel. I'm going to buy some octane boost and try that out but I'm still thinking sensor ? maybe
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    Ahh, I see you are in Canada (forgot to look before). If you can find it, try the 10% ethanol premium (octane rating of 92 in Alberta and 94 on the west coast). Mohawk has it. Husky has the 5% 91 octane stuff. Just one tank of 92-94 octane is all it will take to see if that fixes it. If so, that's a start. You could wait for the suspected sensor to fail completely (triggering a CEL), and if that doesn't happen in a few months, get the engine cleaned internally. They run a noxious chemical though the engine (it burns it and the carbon). The dealer will probably not find anything until the CEL is triggered.
  • Good luck, as a nail in the tire isn't a warrantied item. The warranty basically covers the tire shredding itself for no apparant reason. The tire company can't warranty that you'll never run over a nail.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Something similar happened to me in 1985. I bought a new Ford Mustang GT. This was the first year they used expensive V rated tires on this car, which were quite rare back then. When I had about 800 miles on the car, a big nail went right through the sidewall of one of the tires. Had to pay to replace the tire - it was around $ 170 plus mounting and balancing.

    Generally you cannot fix a tire punctured through the sidewall. If the hole is in the tread close to the sidewall, it can sometimes be repaired, but many places will be reluctant to do so because of liability issues.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    I don't know if you get a road hazard warranty with new car tires these days, but I would ask about that first. Road hazard would cover such a problem but you usually have to pay extra per tire for that when you buy a set of tires. Again, I don't know if that comes with new cars.
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