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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Hey, don't just take my blind advice, although I think I'm correct, have someone look at the car and see if you can locate where the coolant is coming from. Rent a pressure tester if needed, just don't overpressure the system - follow directions. The red flag to me was the squealing noise, which would seem to indicate the pump bearing was failing as well as the seal, so that its leaking and hanging up the belt.

    I have not replaced one on my Max, but in my past cars you basically disconnect the belt, drain coolant from the radiator, access the pump and remove it, reinstall. But being an import there are probably a lot of items to remove to get to the pump. Suggest a Haynes or Nissan manual, or a good shop.

    Good luck and let us know how it goes.
  • dobrydobry Posts: 7
    Hi I have problem with starting my Maxima 1997 when is hot weather :).I turn a key in ignition and nothink happend only can here "click click" sound form fuses in dashbord.Sometimes it help when i push fuse number 17 ENG CONT middle row sixth form the bottom.I change fuse bot still the same sometimes helps when i hit the dasbord :P where fueses are located.Any body have this kind of problem or know how to fix it.I try to find solution on ineternet but i couldn`t.
  • qgirlqgirl Posts: 1
    Hey,
    We have an '01 Maxima GLE that is on it's 3rd set of brakes and rotors in 45K. I am disheartened to hear that you've had 6 sets. Been told rotors should last at least 50k. How much to fix your current problem? Only asking because we'll probably have it in the future.... :(

    Thanks for posting!

    QGirl
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Be glad it's not an Armada. We've got folks with rotors going in the first 3k miles. I just had mine replaced for being "out of round" at 7k.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    For that type of work you really need a shop manual. Hayes' are ok but mechanics use shop manuals which have more detail. You can get them online.
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    Thanks I did not know that, where can I get one? Would the public library have one? Places like PepBOys, O'Reily's or NAPA? The dealership? How much should I expect to pay?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Check back to post 2091. There is a link in that post. I think you can only get them from Nissan. That post says about $20.
  • Hey I have a 97 Maxima for over a year, and I love it, but recently (last 2 months or so) I've had problems with the car starting to shake/vibrate when I slow down. This problem does not happen constantly, its fairly random except that it only occurs when the car is well warmed up (approx 10 miles of driving) and is in either in Drive or reverse and the brake is pressed full. Also, sometimes during motion in the range of around 45-55 mph, I notice a sudden and random loss of power with the rpm's falling to a range of 300-400. :cry:
    I have just replaced my knock sensor, 1 spark plug boot (there was a misfire), water pump, oil pressure switch, increased the rpm's on the idle, and ran a computer diagnostic, which previously showed O2 sensor problems, but as of yesterday showed all clear after the knock sensor was replaced.

    I am at a loss as to what to do :confuse: , and financially this is becoming a burden.
    Oh, and my gas consumption is odd I get a full tank in 230 miles or so, shouldn't it be more?
    I will greatly appreciate any help anyone can offer, many thanx in advance
  • dianardianar Posts: 3
    Hey! I hope someone can shed some light on this for me. Immediately after my car started, it shook almost violently [scared me to death!]. Keep in mind, this car's nickname is "Cream Puff" because it drives like a dream at 82K miles.

    I turned the car off, then restarted it again with the severe vibration still happening, but to a lesser degree. By the time I popped the hood and got out to look at belts, etc., the car was starting to calm back down. Turned it off again and it restarted a third time without any significant shaking. I drove my daughter to school and I came into work with no trace of anything wrong while on the road.

    What in the world could possibly cause this? A very similar situation happened about 2.5 years ago and after leaving it for two nights with my mechanic, he could find nothing wrong with it. And of course, it started right up; no problem.

    Any ideas? Thx!
  • mert2mert2 Posts: 74
    how you holding up hound97?
    I bought a 2000 maxima with 45K on it last month.

    rear o2 sensor reprogramming: $80
    idle control valve: $450
    towing: $60
    replace rear o2 sensor: $250
    check a/c: $80

    Now I find out these cars have a lot of MAF problems and ignition coil problems, so I've got a thousand more in repairs to look forward to.

    Plus the a/c is substandard for the 100 degree days we get around here. I'm already looking, should've stuck with toyota.
  • tdooleytdooley Posts: 1
    Hello. I am hoping someone can help me narrow down what this problem could be. For about a month now, my car has made an interesting noise whenever I ease onto the brake, ease up off the brake and cruise, and when I make sharp turns. The noise is hard to describe. The best description I can give is that it is similar to the sound you hear if your tire is rubbing up against the wheel well...
    Any thoughts?
  • steve1972steve1972 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 95 Nissan Maxima. When it's cold, it starts fine, but when it's hot, or the car is warmed up, I turn the key once, and nothing, turn it quick the second time and bang it starts. Sometimes I have to push the foot to the floor too in order to get it to start. My friend told me to turn the key, but not all the way, wait 10seconds, then try, and it seems to work. But like you, it's driving me crazy, and I hope you or someone else can spare me the outrages cost it's going to be to find the problem. At least now I know from what you have tried already, that it won't work for mine either. I'll keep trying to find the problem, and I'll let you know if I do, could you please do the same for me? Thanks and good luck to the both of us.
  • Hello again, I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts as to what I can do with the shaking. I need my car on a constant basis (sometimes for emergency reasons) and this problem is causing me to think twice before touching my car.
    Several times the shaking was so bad I felt like the car was about to shut down on me.
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :)
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 980
    I don't think replacing a couple of sensors at 54,000 miles qualifies as a money pit, nor necessarily a harbinger of other repairs to come. If you had had multiple problems by that time like I did with my Subaru -- sensors, brake rotors, calipers, just to name a few -- I could see it.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    In regards to the noise when turning, it's probably the CV (constant velocity) Joint. There is a boot that covers the joint that can split over time and all the grease will leak out hense, the noise when turning. Of course that doesn't account for the noises when braking. That could be a separate problem.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    From your description, it seems to be bad brake rotors or calipers or even a master cylinder problem. If the calipers were sticking, that may cause the loss in power but they would have to be really acting up to cause that. You're going to have to get it checked out. If the calipers are sticking, that can cause over heating and possibly lead to a fire. I'm sure you don't want that.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    Ok, so I've got 79,430 miles on the old 2000 Max SE and I'm FINALLY doing brakes. I do NOT have any squeaking, grinding, pulsing, etc but the pads are getting a bit thin and the steering wheel does vibrate or dance back and forth a tiny bit when I hit the brakes hard. We use the car now as our primary vehicle when our baby is with so I figure it's time to get them done. Going with Precision Tune, all 4 corners with new pads and resurface rotors, plus flush/fill brake fluid. Estimated cost about $355 with tax. I called the dealer for same service and was around $600. We'll see I guess. Just wanted to update because so many post about brake issues, and well, I obviously didn't have any so they're not ALL bad. I do go really easy on the brakes though, with lots of coasting and releasing the pedal to cool them off aka pumping them like in the snow in the old days. Seems to have worked to get 79K out of them! ;-)

    Seeya
  • steve1972steve1972 Posts: 2
    My airbag light flashing too, so many have told me that I need to change the sensor, but I'm not in a hurry because the sensor is priced at about $600 Canadian. Keep in mind that the air bags are good for nothing unless the sensor is changed.
  • kgbatussrkgbatussr Posts: 2
    Greetings All, I recently purchased the above car, and have had nothing but problems with the battery (I think).I first noticed the problem when I was driving on an uphill incline and the radio started to turn on and off. I got home and turned off the car, went inside for 30 minutes or so , went back out to start the car again, and the battery was flat. My mate came over and we jump started it. Good as gold, and here comes the tricky bit, while I was reversing out of the driveway, the car slowly came to a halt ,as though it had run out of petrol.
    I pushed it to its parking space and the next morning the battery was dead.
    I purchased another battery( brand new ) .The car started and I put it in the garage, Next morning, the car did,nt start , but made the usual flat battery noises.
    I left it alone and went to bed.I tried to start it up the next day, but again the battery was completely flat. Does ANYONE have a theory or helpful comment on this, I know I am stumped.Thanks for your thoughts, Paul .
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Posts: 9
    is the bank 2 sensor the as the o2 sensor?
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Posts: 9
    how do you tell if you have a california max in regards to the o2 sensors ?
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    Shop manual? Last time I checked with the dealer for my 97 maxima, the cost was $150 or so. A Haynes manual will do just as well for a water pump.
  • carsch3carsch3 Posts: 8
    Start first by taking to your car to Autozone or a similar store where they can check for any stored codes. It seems to me that there is an ignition firing problem, although it could be something else having nothing to do with the ignition.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Posts: 559
    Could it be that your defeating the security system in the key/ignition when you try to start it the first time? That's why it would start the second time you try and also if you put the key in the ignition and wait a few seconds before you try to start it?

    I'd save the money from taking it to the dealer and just wait a couple of seconds after you put the key in the ignition, before you turn it over to start it.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Hi. My 2001 Maxima which was babied since I got it new seems to be having premature major failures at 46K miles. Last year, the a/c compressor went and had to be replaced. The car only had 38K miles. Now, the service engine light went on and while I was getting an oil change at a oil/lube place, the mechanic noted that the ECM had a burning smell coming out of it. Called the dealer and they suggested to remove the battery connection and have it towed there. What is going on? I bought this car thinking its very mechanically reliable. Anyone have the same kind of experience? I'm now thinking of selling it before anything major goes wrong. I believe if its the ECM, its covered under warranty for 8 years/80K miles.
  • It all started a few weeks back, I turned the key and nothing :sick: , release and turn key again, it starts. As time passed, it would take 2 or more turns of the key to get the starter to engage. :confuse: A few days ago, no matter how many times I turned the key the car would not start. Replaced the starter, car started normally. This lasted about 2 days, the sypmtoms have returned. Any idea's?? :lemon:
  • inknpapr31inknpapr31 Posts: 1
    Please help...My 2004 SL has had a shaking steering wheel since the day I picked it up. I brought it to the dealer four times, two sets of tires, two sets of rims, new breaks, tire rotation, balancing everything those "brains" at Nissan can think of. Nothing has improved.

    If anyone has had the same problem and it has been resolved PLEASE let me know, before I go through the trouble of envoking the Lemon Law...
  • ashantiashanti Posts: 6
    BY looking at the dipstick how do I know if I have enough oil in the engine. It does not have any measurement markings, just a couple of bends in the metal. I have a 1995 SE Maxima.\

    By the way if anyone here has changed their own water pump please let me know how you did it.

    Thanks!
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Posts: 9
    sounds like your rotors are bad .it appears that all model maximas rotors are to small for braking system .After a couple of hard stops the rotors warp!!! Try to get the to replace them .It will probably work for a little while mind as well go for after markets !
  • ok, so a while back, i replaced my cv shafts because the boots were torn, and it was knocking under power. The noise went away, ans all was well. Just about a week ago, it started again. If i hit the gas and turn, it makes the knocking noise. i checked the torque on the spindle nuts, they're fine. I don't know if it's wheel bearings, or if i put the cv shafts in wrong, which i can't see happening. anybody have any ideas?
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