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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Glass can suddenly break, even violently, if it has been tempered improperly. Tempering of glass means subjecting the glass article to a predermined heat cycle with tightly controlled temperature settings and rate of change. This helps reduce internal stresses in the glass, which are induced during manufacture. I suspect that your sunroof panel was improperly tempered when made. Subsequent exposure of one side to cold temperature,with the other side kept warm, caused the internal stresses to increase to the level that resulted in violent failure of the article.
  • KKMAN1
    I have also experienced the same problem over the weekend. Friday morning my wife started the car up without any problems. She went into the house to get our daughter only to return to find the car stalled. The car has not started since. Called the dealer and it is to be towed to the dealership first thing Monday morning. This is not the first time that I have had problems with this car. Since I purchased it new on 3-12-03, it has been back to the dealer as follows: Twice for "Service Engine Soon" light coming on, once for leaking sunroof, once for CD player not working, a fog behind the information screen, and the rear drivers side pillar molding came loose. I am completely disgusted with this car, so I've called Nissan USA twice now. The first time for the sunroof problem, and the second as a result of the car not starting. Spoke to a Matt directly at 310-771-8454 extension 8454 or for voicemail 1-800-647-7261 extension 8454. If you have a chance give him a call so that nissan is aware that there is a problem with their Maxima. In my opinion nissan should refund us our money so that we can get cars that will actually start. Anyone considering the 04 Maxima do yourself a favor and get something else. DO NOT BUY A 04 MAXIMA!!!!!!!!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Man, that is a long list of problems for a new car. My 98 Maxima SE has never been to a dealer since I bought the car. No warranty issues, no issues since, except for routine maintenance and the hood pneumatic struts got weak with time.

    What did Nissan do to the Maxima?
  • johnjill99

    Want to thank you for all your info.I will call nissan first thing monday morning.I was finally able to start my car on Sunday afternoon,but who knows whether it will start on monday.I'm bringing car to dealer on monday.Let me know how you make out!I'll do the same.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    A "memo on cold weather starting procedures"? What is this? What procedures? Are these people serious? How about taking responsibility, recalling the cars, and fixing the problem! Last time I checked this car did not have a diesel engine with a defective glow plug relay timer.
  • I recall there was a problem (charactistic if you will) with the VQ engines (3.0L for sure and maybe the 3.5L) in that unless they were throughly warmed up each time they were started, you could have a problem getting them restarted.

    We simply got in the habit of making sure the car's temp gauge had risen into the normal operating range before we'd shut the car off (on 95 and 00 Maxima's and now on 03 Murano).

    Sort of a PITA if you just need to jockey a car around in the driveway to let someone in or out for example but it was an issue.

    Any chance something like this is what's causing the issue your experiencing?
  • Veilleux1,

    it has something to do with the grease used on the starter. I had seen a link on a Maxima enthusiast's website for a 4 gen (99 MY) Max.

    In his case, he replaced the grease used with a lower viscosity grease that had a broader temp range.

    If I can find the link I'll add it.

    I don't think it is much of a problem since most people have it and seem to dismissed it.
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    I have the same cold starting problem with my 92 SE with the VQ. If I run it for just a second to pull it out of the garage and shut it off, I have a heck of a time re-starting. Like you say, wait until the temp gauge moves before shutting it down. Saw a reason for that problem some time ago on these boards, but can't remember when.
  • Have my 04 Maxima in the shop as I write this. Service guy just called me basically saying I am crazy and come pick the car up. Car just does not warm up good. I am actually cold after 30 minutes of having heat set at 72. I have to turn up to 80 or higher to get it comfortable. Also, occasionally when car is stopped it blows out freezing cold air. Once you get the rpm's up it goes to warmer air. I noticed other complaints in this dicussion group. Has anybody heard what the problem is and how to fix it? Any recalls on this?
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Seems to me that these cold start problems are related to the fuel enrichment circuit. When the engine is cold, it obviously needs more fuel (or less air) than a warm engine. On carburated engines, this is accomplished with either a manual or automatic choke. Fuel injected engines rely on the engine computer to enrich the mixture. It appears that once you start a cold car, the fuel enrichment circuit functions as needed and provides extra fuel. In the case of Maxima, if you shut if off before the engine warms up, and then attempt to restart, the computer fails to activate the circuit again. This is analogous to closing the choke on a carburated engine, starting it, shutting it off after a few seconds, then opening the choke, and trying to start the engine again.
    The above is just a theory that would explain this phenomenon. If what I am saying is true, then reprogramming the PCM, or redesigning the cold start circuit is the answer. I have never experienced these problems with my 98 Maxima, but I live in Florida where it never gets too cold.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Your problems are classic symptoms of improperly functioning automatic climate control system. I prefer manual air conditioners for this reason, and the only car I own with an automatic climate control system is an 83 Merecedes 300 SD. These auto control systems rely on preprogrammed temperature controller, which receives a signal from the elecronic temperature selector panel. Temperature controller then controls a series of vacuum motors or electric valves which mix the cold and warm air in right proportions. Depending on the system, any misrouting of the vacuum lines or electrical wires will result in system malfunction. My first attempt would be to check the system against its electric and vacuum control schematic to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. The second step is to test individual valves in the system. A malfunctioning valve will also cause problems. There is also a temperature sensor inside the vehicle, which provides constant feedback to the temperature controller in form of a voltage signal (sensor functions as a variable resistor). There is a lot of components in the system that can cause problems. Only systematic troubleshooting will discover the problem. Of course, there is also the possibility that Nissan redesigned the auto temperature control system for 04 and there is a design flaw in the system. However, my hunch is, that the design is OK, but cheap components with poor reliability, or shoddy workmanship is to blame.
  • KKMAN1
    I just got my car back from the dealership tonight. According to them the car was flooded and that is the reason why it would not start. I told them that this is crazy and that there is more to the problem. So they kept it an extra day and repeated my exact steps the morning I had problems. Sure enough the car started fine and then stalled a few minutes later. The mechanic then checked the computer codes. Nothing abnormal according to the readings. They ended up re-adjusting the fuel injection system and according to them everything is fine. When I went to pick up the car it started right up and appears to be operating normally. I am certain that there is an issue with the computer system. Therefore, I am still in contact with Nissan USA to figure out what they are planning on doing about this problem. I'll keep you posted as to what is happening.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Posts: 1,015
    It's a classic flooding issue. When you start it cold the PCM is in "choke mode" (extra fuel to keep it running). If you then shut it off, there is extra fuel left in the cylinders. This can foul the spark plugs (it soaks into the ceramic). When you start it again and the plugs start to warm up, that fuel breaks down into a conductive material and shorts out the ignition spark or reduces its' effectiveness. This effect is really bad on the Mazda RX-8. Interesting it happens on the Max. It may be related to the small low energy ignition coils too (unable to "blast" their way back to working). I haven't noticed it on my 2001 Pathfinder (also the VQ 3.5L V6), but I don't tempt fate too often.

    Solution - let the engine warm up a bit before you shut it off to get out of "choke mode". Then when you shut it off, there will be no excess fuel in the cylinders, and no fouling of the plugs.
  • Nissan replaced the sun roof under warranty. I asked if Nissan was experiencing this problem around the country? Reportedly 4-5 sunroofs have broken due to heat or cold extremes.
  • I bought 04 max SE two month ago and two weeks later I noticed the brake and abs warning lights flash on and off. When this happen the speedometer needle drops down to zero for few seconds and goes back to the current speed I am on. Took it a dealer and they were not able to ‘find a problem’ and got back the car. But the problem was still there and getting worse (more frequently than before) when I took it back to the dealer the second time. This time the service tech was able to see the problem, as we were test deriving it. This was TWO weeks ago and the car is still in a shop, I was told they don’t get any fault code from the computer and have not seen this problem before. Please advise what steps I can take and/or if you have any idea about this issue.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Intermittent open circuit in the vehicle speed sensor.
  • Should the windshield rubber liner be flush on my Maxima on the top left corner. I have had two leaks and the dealer first said they resealed the windshield, the liner was still not flush about an inch gap. Next time I brought in same leak they said they cleaned out the sunroof drain holes could not find the leak. To me it is obvious the the liner should be flush I can see the corner of my windshield on the top, it like the ran out of liner on the last inch. I have also had to go back for a check engine light three times. It seems like they are ignoring the problems since everything is still under warranty. Now I am at 35k miles though. I am wrong on the liner.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 197
    I don't exactly know what you mean by flush but my 01 windshield is completely sealed in the rubber gasket all the way around. No visible gaps and never any leaks. Good luck.
  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 197
    I have replaced the bulbs on both sides at least once a year on my 01 GLE. First one side then the other, either the parking light is out or the brake light is out. Sometimes a wiggle of the socket is all that's needed but sometimes the filament is burnt. Glad my lease is up in 30 days. For several reasons I've switched back to an Accord EX-V6.
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