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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • robbie05robbie05 Posts: 2
    I just bought the car in May, and the owner doesn't mention changing timing belt or spark plugs. By the way, Maxima has timing chains and 100k miles spark plugs.
  • wcislowcislo Posts: 3
    My '96 Maxima's check engine light came on and showed tps, knock sensor and 2nd gear a/t - they did a band adjustment ($35) for the 2nd gear a/t and cleared the codes. A week later light came on again for tps, knock sensor and 1st gear a/t. Now they want to do a diagnosis ($100+). Should I just have the tps replaced? What about the knock sensor? How are these codes related?
  • I bought my 2002 Maxima SE used last year from a dealer. The fuel cover was sticky even then, but I didn't pay to much attention to it - my mistake. After filling up last night, I couldn't close the door properly and had to remove it entirely (held on by two screws) this morning. The hinge was totally seized, and I had to damage it even more to remove it. After seeing the posts here, it seems like this is a common problem. Hard to believe given the relatively high quality of the mechanical parts on the rest of the car. Wonder how much this is going to cost me replace.
  • dobrydobry Posts: 7
    i write allready why was the problem it was ignition lock.It cost me 150$+labor.I have the same symptoms when hot i couldnt start the car over 70 degree weather.
  • hominkahominka Posts: 1
    Did you look at both sides of the dipstick? I was a little puzzled about my 95 Maxima at first as well, but soon found the markings on the other side of the stick.
  • maxine6maxine6 Posts: 1
    Aikido2, I have a 98 GLE, and while I haven't had this specific problem, it's happened to me on a different car. The solution, replacing the starter AND ignition switch. Just like with your issue, my car was stopping right in the middle of the road. Hope this can help.
  • amandashamandash Posts: 14
    I had a similar problem on a 93 Maxima. There is a temperature sensor on behind the glove compartment on the evaporator. Mine had an aluminum heat sink attached. Hope this helps
  • wcislowcislo Posts: 3
    An update to my original message - after being on for the past 5 days, my check engine light went out - does that mean I shouldn't do anything??
  • turbojazzturbojazz Posts: 1
    Hello there.

    I have a 2004 SE as well and have experienced the shut down (Fail Safe Mode) 5 times. First time was less than a year after I purchased the car. I have taken the car in 4 times for repair and decided that this is ridiculous so I contacted Nissan North America Consumer Line. This resulted in no action when I asked that this car should be exchanged or repurchased. So - had to contact BBB and am set for a hearing date in a bout a week from now. Two occasions were really dangerous. This happened when attempting to accelerate on a freeway during rush hour. Almost got hit by three cars !!! Seems to be something with the Throttle Control system ... and the last repair attempt - they replaced the main electrical wiring harness. Still happened once after that. The Service Engine Soon light comes on, the car goes into Fail Safe Mode which gives you just enough power to move off to the side of the road. After waiting about 2 minutes with the engine off, the car will start and run but the Service Engine Soon light remains on. I have been a long time loyal Nissan consumer but I am having second thoughts about Nissan now. :lemon:

    Have you had any resolution since posting your message?

    Thanks...
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    My 2000 SE just took a rock to the windshield and it needs to be replaced. Looking for advice. Are all the places pretty much the same, meaning Harmon, or any of those that come to you to fix? Do they use aftermarket windshields, or is there a Nissan OEM one you can get? Does it matter??
  • ammo267ammo267 Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Maxima GLE. My A/C compressor is getting no power. I checked at the relay block and there is no power on the switch side there. The coil side has power and the relay is working but the switch side has none. Does anyone know where the power is fed from to the relay block?? Please help!!
  • aggiedogaggiedog Posts: 238
    Most places are pretty good. Just look for those that have been around awhile. And it doesn't matter whether they do it at their shop or your own place. They typically use aftermarket windshields which in my experience are as good if not better than oem. It may cost you more than just your deductible to get that oem.
  • pjnpjn Posts: 4
    Greetings. I have a '97 Max which runs very well and for the last couple of years my SES light has come on and stayed on for months, then would go off for month then come on again and so forth. The car has always run fine and rec'd very low emissions readings back as of last AIMs test in 2003.

    A colleague who also owns a Max gave me the following website:
    www.vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

    Click on "Check Engine Light" and there are detailed instructions on obtaining the codes yourself as well as turning off the dreaded SES light. I did it last evening, it took less than 5 minutes and it worked.

    I received three codes that were decoded on this same website. Anyone familiar with EVAP canister vent control valve, knock system and EVAP System?

    Ivan">link title
  • gengen Posts: 5
    169k miles with CEL code 0303, and was due for a tune up. Starting problems were occurring frequently where it took several tries b4 the engine would start, whether hot or cold. Often I had to press the gas pedal in order to stay at 1500 rpm for a few seconds, or it would stall immediately after starting.

    Symptoms seemed like a flooded engine, so I did some reading, bought parts and got dirty.

    LH O2 sensor, NGK platinum plugs, K&N air filter, fuel filter, throttle body cleaning, and oil change.

    I thought the starting problems were due to the bad O2 sensor, and I now had an all-clear code 0505, but the problem remained. Thanks to this forum, along with a couple others, I pinpointed the source down to the coolant temperature sensor. I bought a Wells 3/8” thread sensor from Autozone and the car is starting up fine. All the other tune-up work was necessary as well, and the car runs very smoothly.

    Note: for the O2 sensor, it was a tight spot, so I used a 6” wrench with 1” jaw. You need 13/16” min. jaw. And the spark plug in the back, near the driver side is tough to get out, and tougher to put back in. I had to wedge it slightly in order to get the coil back in without snapping it. Be careful as they do snap at the joint if bent too far. You'll hear a sharp crack. Yep, I know from experience.
  • detrmnd2detrmnd2 Posts: 1
    The a/c works fine in my 1990 Max until I put the blower on position #4. Air continues to blow but it is no longer cool. I move the blower to position #3 and it works fine once again. My Haynes repair manual isn't much help in this area. Any recommendations?
  • guadvasguadvas Posts: 2
    Hi guys,
    I made the mistake of messing with the thottle stop adjustment (factory set) when I was having problems with my idle. Well, I fixed my idle problem and now have to reset my throttle stop adjustment. Does anyone have a simple way of doing this or do I have to take it to the DEALER? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,
    lupe vasquez
  • bingsbings Posts: 1
    HI everyone.
    I have a modified '96 maxima with a "98 infiniti I30 engine. It was a straight swap with no major adjustments. engine runs great but recently developed a problem when starting. It takes a few cranks from a cold start to get it going but once you drive and try and restart there's no problem. mechanic checked the fuel pump,filter and found no problem with either, egr valves were cleaned, faulty knock sensor replaced and the starter is new???? need help please
    Thanks
  • leonoraileonorai Posts: 1
    2004 Nissan Maxima SL

    Initial problem was the car did not start on the first try from purchase. The Service engine light went on. 3 fuel injector replaced and that did not solve the problem then the dealer replaced the fuel pump, the car started but the car still had no power and was shifting horribly. Dealer then said it was a internal valve in the transmission. They opened transmission and then dealer stated it needed a "new unit". They then replaced the with a " new unit" and car was shaking and still downshiting and not shifting properly at all. Then back to the dealer and the transmisson was leaking then they told me an axel seal would fix the problem, they replaced an axel seal. I drove it home and parked the car. Now the car wont start and the dealer says its the battery. My maxima is not a year old yet and has 20,000 miles on it. The service engine light or any kind of warning light did not go on during the last few problems. Is this a lemon or what? I need help please. Thank you :lemon: :cry:
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    In my opinion, nissan makes some really good products for tuneups but their maximas are really disappointing. I would advice anyone who are attempting to purchase a car to stay away from maximas. Disagree or agree anyone?
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 1,033
    Totally disagree. I have an '01 GLE with 49,000 miles. Total repairs so far: one drive belt and the gas cap door. Pretty minor for 4 years.
  • univmdunivmd Posts: 3
    I have a Maxima 97 too, with 140,000 miles. Trouble free from 0 to 140,000 miles until this year. SES light came on. Replaced the evap control module. Light went out. After two months, the light came on again. Codes relating to transmission control module, engine knock, and throttle contol came up. 3 codes. Car is fine, except on some days, car will seem to stall but doesn't, at the first stoplight of the day. Regular mechanic said that I can ignore the engine knock code since it will be very hard to fix. But he said that I need to take the car into the dealership to get the transmission's computer checked and maybe replaced? Diagnosis at the dealership will cost $140. I am willing to fix this car, but I am wondering what you would do? Drive the car into the ground without doing anything? Or get a diagnosis and fix the car immediately? --jAmEs
  • bigstorybigstory Posts: 1
    I also have a 2001 Maxima and I had the same experience in that just the other day my ABS warning light came on. I checked the local repair shop and they want $139 just to look at it. I am trying to search were I can buy the ABS control module myself and install it. I would also need to know where the module is located in the car. Any experience in knowing what the warning light really means?
  • debbie731debbie731 Posts: 10
    I wish I would've read your message before buying my 2005 Maxima. I can't sit in my car at all - I've tried everything and essentially I am now driving my husband's car because I can't sit in my car at all. Sad to say I'll never buy a Nissan again. I've never had this experience before.
  • magdocjrmagdocjr Posts: 3
    To anyone that can help:

    I have a 2000 Max SE with a bad attitude. It drives like it has a mind of its own. It does not matter how fast or slow I am driving and when I need to accelerate it refuses. I would say it is starving for gas. The SES light came on, I took it to a dealer for diagnostics. Replaced O2 sensors and said it was 100% ok. The said that with the O2 sensors were the cause of the problem. A week after having them replaced the car is doing the same thing. If anyone knows where I need to start looking please let me know. Thank you.
  • victord1victord1 Posts: 94
    Hello all Maxima experts and fans. My '03 Maxima is approaching 36,000 mile, and I'm thinking of having the 37,500 mile schedule maintenance done. Is there anything I should watch for or tell the dealer to do?? Besides the O2 sensor and the gas tank cut-off sensor which were replaced under warranty, the car has not given me any problem.

    I want to to care of any possible future problems before the warranty period expires. I welcome any suggestions. Thanks.

    One more thing. The cabin air filter: should I let the dealer change it (and charge $200+) or change it myself and save the money?
  • univmdunivmd Posts: 3
    To continue with my story, I took my 1997 Nissan Maxima 140,000 miles to the dealer today to get the SES light checked. He said there were two codes, the throttle control code and the engine knock code. He reset the light and said no problem with either. Also no problem with the transmission control module like my other mechanic believed. So everything is fine now. He said warming up the car a little before driving off will help with mysterious near-stalling problem on some days, but he could not recreate the near-stalling at the shop. So that's that. My car is fine now with no SES light. But I'm sure it will come back on again in a couple of weeks. The dealer said that he could replace the knock sensor for $485, just because it's old, but I think I will pass. Wondering if mechanic would be willing to turn it off completely or at least make it ignore the knock sensors. Hmmm. He also told me that he could clean the battery terminals for me for $55. I passed. I heard that it is easy to do at home, using Coca Cola, anybody clean their own terminals before? --jAmEs
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Use a premium gas, if you are, then try adding a can of BG44K into your fuel tank. In my experience with hesitation, this stuff really works. Not only it stops hesitations but can also stop knocking and pinging, and also rough idling. You can get this at your nissan dealership just by asking for it. Costs about $15 a can, its a little bit of an expensive fuel cleaner product, but i guess you get what you pay for.
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Same problem here about 4 months ago. After check engine light went on, i took it to the shop to replace oil pan, gaskets, and sensors. Afterwards, light was still on. But, a couple days later, AFTER HITTING A HARD BUMP DRIVING UP THE ROAD, the light suddenly went out. Weird stuff eh?
  • bkswardbksward Posts: 93
    wish I would've read your message before buying my 2005 Maxima. I can't sit in my car at all - I've tried everything and essentially I am now driving my husband's car because I can't sit in my car at all. Sad to say I'll never buy a Nissan again. I've never had this experience before.

    So you're saying that someone else who said that the car seat was uncofortable after 10 minutes of driving would have stopped you from buying? (A message that was posted over 6 months ago.)

    Did you test drive the car before buying? I test drove a Saturn before buying a Maxima. Within 1 minute I realized that the seat cushion was the right length for a 5'4" woman, not a 6' guy...

    So you blame Nissan for making a car that you can't get comfortable in that you bought? Why would you buy a car you couldn't adjust the seats to a cofortable position in? A friend of mine didn't buy a Mazda 6 because he couldn't get the side mirrors into a suitable position for his driving position...
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    Before I buy a car I always test drive it for at least 30 minutes. ( Is that the salesman I hear screaming , lol ) . Back in 1999, Acura came out with a new TL and Nissan came out with its 5th gen. Maxima. I wanted a TL sooo bad I could taste it ,HOWEVER, after 20 min. of driving the car my back hurt. I went to 5 different dealers and drove 5 different TL's.......same problem. My 'back' and the TL seat were incompatible. That's life !!! I didn't buy a TL. I bought the Max which fit me like a glove!

    You would be amazed at how many people buy cars un-driven and sight unseen.
    Look at the '05 Ford Mustang GT. It's virtually impossible to find one on a dealer lot, BUT, people are ordering them so fast that Ford's production can't keep up with demand. How many of these people have driven a Mustang GT ?? Darn few !!!
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